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Old 26th June 2007, 20:59   #76
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any plans to upgrade again?
The last we heard was that the ports were too close to the side walls in the boot and needed to be shifted. Shhhh... abhi suspense-scene chal raha hai, uske baad - Jhoom barabar jhoom ... dhig chak dhig chak dhig chak!
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Old 26th June 2007, 21:48   #77
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you know Atkins and Knopler actually made a record or maybe two together. I have one.
They made only album in 1990, Neck and Neck, you do have it.

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One evening Sam jumps in my car with some rubbish hindi songs which my wife loves. He fiddled with the settings for a few seconds and then pumped up the volume. I was impressed! Not with the music, but the the sound. Hell, I could have sworn Sam was a bit surprised as well as he didn't expect it to sound as good as it did.

So you don't need an amp to get decent sound!
The song in question was Crazy Kiya Re.
Oh crazy...
Crazy Kiya re!


It was all peaky. I flattened it a little and turned up the volume. The Skoda has good solid doors and the front stage was quite nice.
It did sound better than I expected.
Yes, it will sound better with an amplifier, but I don't think Rtech needs an amplifier, he's satisfied with what he has.

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They must be smiling at things cooking here!
Yeah, nice high quality discussion, I enjoyed the good read.
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And it may be entertaining to know what my high-end systems are
Yes it was, lol. Thanks for that smile.
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Old 26th June 2007, 22:47   #78
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you know Atkins and Knopler actually made a record or maybe two together. I have one.
Wow! Alas, I could only manage to lay my hands on only one number - "Tears". Must buy the CD.
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Old 29th June 2007, 14:42   #79
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4. i find that in many cases having coaxials in the rear actually detract from the sound. The resons could be becuase coaxials are not often built to the same exacting standards set for components. coxials are a good stand in but beware of turning them up too much. in short fade to the front"
"Fade to front" would mean increasing the Fader to the front na. What does the fade to front do, will it reduces volume of rear speakers or increase volume of front speakers.
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Old 29th June 2007, 14:47   #80
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How about having a high quality Coax in front and rear(Something around 7K for a pair).
That way you can have 4 3 way speakers in your car.
Normal coax from JBL/Pio etc., cost around 3000-4000 a pair, so I am assuming something which costs 7K for a pair will sound a lot better and with a nice 5-6K amp can actually be a good system which will give good midbass too.
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Old 29th June 2007, 16:09   #81
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Tanveer I would any day recommend you to get the JBL 607 it will definitely satisfied you, the one you had heard in speedonline car and did not like it would be because of bad tunning. if you both came to the meet I will try to tune it and then you comment on the same if you like it or not.
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Old 29th June 2007, 16:25   #82
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Why go for JBL when I have the budget to go higher end, as of now Sub is out of the window, Low bass is not what I like, I want good 100Hz and nice sub treble.(Guitar.......)
Thats why this question, will more expensive Coaxials be able to handle midbass(60-100Hz) better than the current set?
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Old 29th June 2007, 17:08   #83
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Why go for JBL when I have the budget to go higher end, as of now Sub is out of the window, Low bass is not what I like, I want good 100Hz and nice sub treble.(Guitar.......)
Thats why this question, will more expensive Coaxials be able to handle midbass(60-100Hz) better than the current set?
Tanveer for the 60 hz range a sub is required no second doubt in that..you can try to listen in my car with sub on and sub off and you can clearly say sub is very important to complete the sound. so please dont drop the sub as it is required the most.

for better co-axials I would say go for a good component kit.
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Old 29th June 2007, 17:15   #84
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I agree. It's better then to spend more on a better pair of components for the front. But do not expect them to play at 60Hz accurately.
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Old 29th June 2007, 17:23   #85
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You are conspiring against me to shell out for a sub. I am trying to bring down my budget. So was looking at all this.
And good to see you in ICE section Sam.
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Old 29th June 2007, 17:37   #86
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I agree. It's better then to spend more on a better pair of components for the front. But do not expect them to play at 60Hz accurately.
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You are conspiring against me to shell out for a sub. I am trying to bring down my budget. So was looking at all this.
And good to see you in ICE section Sam.
a component is a midbass not a woofer. at 60 hz we will be pushing the midbass to it limits.
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Old 29th June 2007, 17:38   #87
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Tsk, Get infiniti components.They're SQ specific speakers.
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Old 29th June 2007, 18:10   #88
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Originally Posted by nitrous View Post
Tsk, Get infiniti components.They're SQ specific speakers.
Infinty (a sister company of JBL) has a more laid back sound than JBL. I found the 6010 bright and have not really tested the 6020 (amp in transit).

I have said this before that I am a bit more fincky than most esp. when it comes to brightness. On the other hand I find some reputed brands lifeless. There is a fine line for me between brightness and lifeless. It does not make one brand SQ and the other less.

Tanveer at 6" midbass can be used to 60Hz as long as the rest is rolled of at atleast 12db/octave. The other choice is to play at only low levels where the mechanicals of the speaker is not stressed. If you intend to do the later Infinity is a good option as it's less bright balance will draw focus to the midbass.

Then if you add a pair of 6x9s for the rear it will help. A 6x9 has about the same bass capabilites as a 8" woofer.

A 12" woofer moves about as much air as 4-6 6" woofers (in theory it would be 4 but in reality since 6" woofers have less Xmax than similar 12" woofers it is a bit more) or 2 8" woofers so using those 6x9s in the rear can really be quite good. Just get good 6x9s and get a 4ch. amp.

BTW Infinti makes cars. They are the luxiury division of Nissan.
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Old 29th June 2007, 22:41   #89
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Default http://www.caraudiohelp.com explains the technology

Coaxials

The least expensive and most common type of car speaker is the coaxial. The coaxial consists of a midrange/woofer with a tweeter placed over the cone, either on a bridge or on a pole that extends from the middle of the cone. These speakers are made in sizes that will exactly fit most brands of vehicles. Advantages of this design include low cost, ease of installation, and a speaker that more closely approaches the one loudspeaker ideal, also called a point source, where all frequencies appear to originate from the same location. The disadvantage of this design is a generally lower sound quality for the majority of coaxials available versus the majority of matched component sets available.
Aspects and features that need to be considered when purchasing coaxials are:

Frequency Response: This is the how much of the audible spectrum a loudspeaker can reproduce. The value should be given with a rating of +/- some number of decibels, usually three. The greater the frequency range, the better up to 20kHz and down to 20Hz. Realistically a coaxial speaker will not play much below 80Hz. That's why we have [COLOR=#336699]subwoofers[/COLOR].
Mounting Depth: This is the distance that a speaker needs behind its mounting surface for its basket and magnet structure. This can be very important when speakers are being installed in the rear deck of automobile that has torsion bars in the trunk or door speakers with window clearance problems.

Power Handling: This is the amount of power a speaker can withstand before failing after a given amount of time. The most important number is the speakers continuous or RMS (root mean square) power handling. Peak power handling means virtually nothing.
Sensitivity: This is a reference measure of how loud a speaker will be with a certain amount of power at a certain distance. The standard is one watt at one meter. By halving the distance an increase of six decibels will be realized and doubling the power will increase the output by another three decibels. This is a trick used by some companies to make their speakers appear more efficient than they are. Most loudspeakers will be in the ninety decibel range. Keep in mind that a difference of three decibels is equivalent to a doubling of the amplifier power.
Tweeter Protrusion: The height that a tweeter sticks above its mounting surface. This will need to be considered when coaxials are being mounted in factory locations under factory grills.


Component Speakers

A component loudspeaker is a single driver designed to reproduce frequencies in a given range. Component speakers are used in tandem with other component speakers to reproduce the entire audio spectrum. As few as two and as many as four or more different size drivers can be used to create a component set. The drivers are kept operating within their designed audio band by a series of frequency filters known as a [COLOR=#336699]crossover[/COLOR]. By using a crossover to keep speakers operating within a certain range the speakers do not become distorted by trying to reproduce frequencies that they are physically unable to reproduce.
In order to keep the point source attribute with a set of component speakers these speakers must be placed very near each other. However this is not always done in practice. Sometimes a midrange/woofer will be placed in a door while the tweeter may be placed in the front corner of the front window (sail panel) or on the pillar that separates the windshield from the door frame (A-pillar). This is done to raise the apparent position of the musicians on an imaginary stage in the front of the vehicle.
It is generally considered desirable to have a sound system that gives the impression that the musicians exist on a stage across the top of the dash, extending beyond the edges of the dash. Raising the tweeter level can help in this goal but other problems occur such as time alignment, the difference in time it takes the low and high frequencies to reach your ears. Ideally all frequencies should arrive at your ears at the same time.
Advantages of this design are generally better sound and more options for installation. Disadvantages are added cost, more complex installation, and possible problems with time alignment.

Aspects and features that need to be considered when purchasing components are:

Frequency Response: This is the how much of the audible spectrum a loudspeaker can reproduce. The value should be given with a rating of +/- some number of decibels, usually three. The greater the frequency range, the better up to 20kHz and down to 20Hz. Realistically a component speaker will not play much below 80Hz. That's why we have [COLOR=#336699]subwoofers[/COLOR].
Mounting Depth: This is the distance that a speaker needs behind its mounting surface for its basket and magnet structure. This can be very important when speakers are being installed in the rear deck of automobile that has torsion bars in the trunk or door speakers with window clearance problems.

Power Handling: This is the amount of power a speaker can withstand before failing after a given amount of time. The most important number is the speakers continuous or RMS power handling. Peak power handling means virtually nothing.
Sensitivity: This is a reference measure of how loud a speaker will be with a certain amount of power at a certain distance. The standard is one watt at one meter. By halving the distance an increase of six decibels will be realized and doubling the power will increase the output by another three decibels. This is a trick used by some companies to make their speakers to appear more efficient than they are. Most loudspeakers will be in the ninety decibel range. Keep in mind that a difference of three decibels is equivalent to a doubling of the amplifier power.


NOW U DECIDE WHAT U WANT
-HCP
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Old 29th June 2007, 22:49   #90
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
Infinty (a sister company of JBL) has a more laid back sound than JBL. I found the 6010 bright and have not really tested the 6020 (amp in transit).

I have said this before that I am a bit more fincky than most esp. when it comes to brightness. On the other hand I find some reputed brands lifeless. There is a fine line for me between brightness and lifeless. It does not make one brand SQ and the other less.

Tanveer at 6" midbass can be used to 60Hz as long as the rest is rolled of at atleast 12db/octave. The other choice is to play at only low levels where the mechanicals of the speaker is not stressed. If you intend to do the later Infinity is a good option as it's less bright balance will draw focus to the midbass.

Then if you add a pair of 6x9s for the rear it will help. A 6x9 has about the same bass capabilites as a 8" woofer.

A 12" woofer moves about as much air as 4-6 6" woofers (in theory it would be 4 but in reality since 6" woofers have less Xmax than similar 12" woofers it is a bit more) or 2 8" woofers so using those 6x9s in the rear can really be quite good. Just get good 6x9s and get a 4ch. amp.

BTW Infinti makes cars. They are the luxiury division of Nissan.
Thank you. I was planning to get couple an 8 inch.
I think this makes more sense.
Get some real nice 6x9 for rear bass, and compo's for front.
As for 4ch amp, 11K is too high, I will try to get some amp for around 8-9K
Something little above 60.4 in power and performance.
But with my car plans getting postponed day by day, I think I can save up some budget.
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