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Old 25th September 2005, 12:44   #1786
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Quote:
Originally Posted by satish_appasani
Has been surfing through Creative site to check whether an accessory is available to connect Creative Media player to my Car CD player. Came across this link.

I want to know whether this can be attached to any player with a input for CD changer..

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-DfnGEOt...nfo&i=158XA300

Hi!!

Sony has a proprietory connection between their head units and cd changers (Uni-Link)
This unit interrupts the connection and allows you to put ANY auxilliary souce AND connect the unilink changer.

You may not use this with any other brand player. Only Sony and Only the Unilink series.
Basically this is Sony making up for the fact that they didn't put an aux input on the HU.


God Bless Japan
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Old 25th September 2005, 12:51   #1787
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I have Sony MP-50 in my car. But I don't have a CD changer. Can I use the above unit with my player to connect Creative Zen / IPOD?

Link to my player: http://www.elitegeek.org/modules.php...rticle&sid=317

Last edited by satish_appasani : 25th September 2005 at 12:55.
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Old 25th September 2005, 13:27   #1788
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi
Hi!!
I see that you have decided to out the fronts on the amplifier and the rear on the HU. I dont agree with this setup. IMO you amplify the front and rear soundstage.


If you want a simpler answer, it'll come from the Sheriff, Navin. heeheeheee
Who can say no to you Sam, I shall amplify the front and the rear sound stages.

Arey Sam bhai, kuch JBL pe discount karaao na, then may be i can put in an addnl sony 502 amp......and then no problems at all.
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Old 25th September 2005, 15:32   #1789
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In order to save cost...you dun really need to put aa amp on the rear speakers. You sit in front an drive..so front stage is very important. Until and unless you have chauffer who drives for you ...you can get away without giving an amp to the rear speakers.

Remember they are rear fills...and its better if they stay like that....because if you give same power as fronts it will ruin the image and soundstage big time.
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Old 25th September 2005, 16:21   #1790
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Talking AudioBahn Amp.

"" Quoting Sound Maniac Arey Sam bhai, kuch JBL pe discount karaao na""Sahi Baat hai Sam Bhai.......JBL ka Mono Bloc Minimun requirement 500 RMS to drive a Audio Bahn woofer I got from US and it is Audiobahn AW1200Q 12" High Excursion Chrome Phat Surr. Dual 4 Ohm 700 Watts RMS. Sam/Navin please recommend a Amplifier to run this woof.

Last edited by moodswings : 25th September 2005 at 16:26. Reason: title
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Old 25th September 2005, 17:32   #1791
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sam Kapasi
You will need a Y-cable to split the RCA signal into 2. These are available quite freely. You then connect both ends to the amplifier


Sounds fine, but there is no fader control.

2) Tri-Bridge Mode:
This allows you to use fader...

I'm really getting stupid. First I ask you to use a Y cable, then i tell you things about the fader....

Sorry boss.. lol
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Old 25th September 2005, 17:35   #1792
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I agree with JB, fronts need to be clear and loud. But i find that amplifying one pair and putting the other pair on the HU is disproportionate.

As far as JBL discount is concerned... lol i run up bills all over the country calling up people to sell to my friends at lower margins...lol

Lemme know who, what and where... you know i will help
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Old 25th September 2005, 22:50   #1793
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Sam please reply to my earier post abou the audio bahn 700 rms woofer-----Amp. req.
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Old 26th September 2005, 07:47   #1794
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hi GUYS

I finally got the setup under my budget of Rs. 10,000.
It may not be JBL's Eyeballer but yes It does ROCK !!

The Head Unit I got is Pioneer 3750 against 4750/5750 (which I earlier decided upon).


I ruled out 5750 because -
1. I cannot look at the display all the time while driving so those flashes are not for me.
2. For optimum output the equalizer settings provided has to be changed/set differently for each and every song - that's really not possible for me to stop the car after every song and change the equalizer settings.

I ruled out 4750 because -
1. The only difference between 3750 and 3750 was of front loading and flipback loading + 4750 had the same equalizer settings as in 5750 (Refer Above)

This is the Head Unit I got


These are the specs as quoted by the website :

MP3/WMA/WAV
Detachable Front Panel with Carry Case
High Power MOSFET 50w x 4
Rotary Volume Control
RCA Pre-Out, Card Remote

I checked this unit in car (Daewoo Matiz) with Blaupunkt GTx693 - Pioneer 6991 - BOSS Riot R694

I checked all the speakers with a different left and a different right, Set the Volume to an Optimum level and then use the Balance control to check the audio quality between left and right speakers.

Blaupunkt sounded OK - very small and weak magnet for Rs 3200 - RULED OUT

Now the fight was between Pioneer 6991 and BOSS R694

Pioneer was a bit more bassy than BOSS but that bass effect was also on the vocals, thus making the voice of the singer more bassy and deeper, whereas, BOSS offered almost same amount of bass with awesome clarity.

Pioneer 6991 - Rs 3500 without B&W
BOSS R694 - Rs 4000 with B&W

After listening to a lot of songs inclucing the VENGABOYS Party Album's BOOM BOOM BOOM - We like to Party to Punjabi Dhol and Soft Sad Songs, I BOUGHT BOSS R694 for Rs 4000 with one year warranty.

This is what BOSS R694 looks like -


The specs for BOSS R694 are -
Impedance: 4 Ohm
Frequency Response: 50Hz-20kHz
SPL 1 Watt/1 Meter: 92 dB
Cone Material: Poly Coated Paper
Voice Coil: 1" Aluminum
Tweeter: 2x 1" Mylar Dome
Midrange: 3" Polycone
Power Handling: 500 (Peak)
Magnet Structure: 80 Oz

The front speakers were factory fitted when we got the car but I still liked BOSS fronts for Rs 1450, but I didn't buy them due to a limited budget, I think the factory installed are of JVC - will check them and let you all know.

The whole Setup Costed Me -
Pioneer 3750 with Remote (Without B&W) - Rs 5000
BOSS Riot R694 (With B&W) - Rs 4000
Antenna - Rs 100

That's It.

The sound is very Bassy, the Radio reception is AWESOME and the white display of head Unit is also good with elegant fonts.

I AM SATISFIED WITH THE MONEY I SPENT.

There is one feature FIE (Front Image Enhancer) in the Unit using which you can shift the soundstage in the front and form an imaging.
The manual says that using this feature will disable all the MIDS & HIGHS from Rears and will shift them prominently to the Fronts - YES IT DOES THE SAME THING and WILL sound good with components or a bit better fronts than the one's I have.

I will post the pics soon (cheap quality) as I can only click them with my SE T610.

Thank you soooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much GUYS for your support and help, I am much knowledgable and confident abt the money I spent. Thank you.

And I am not going away, I will be upgrading this later on.

Anyone you wishes to check the system in Chandigarh, I will be glad to show you the same. Please PM me or email at sukhamrit_singh@dell.com for the same.

Thank you once again.

Last edited by zzzehar : 26th September 2005 at 08:00.
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Old 26th September 2005, 09:50   #1795
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NAVIN, please delete the post from other threads - I am sorry for posting twice.
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Old 26th September 2005, 10:00   #1796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SoundManiac
My Sony 5100 cassette deck has just 1 Pre out - rear/sub switchable. (Not sure about the voltage).
1. Front - 6.5 Compos
2. Rear- 6.5 Coaxials
3. Sealed Box Sub in the Boot.
4. Sony 504 4 channel amp.
Fronts are on 2 channels of Amp, Rears on the HU and Sub using bridged two rear channels of the amp.
.
I think what you are trying to say is that you got the a single pair fRCA connectors going from the pre out to the amp. then a Y connector near the amp feeds the preout signal to all 4 channels of the amp. the amp however is connected to the front channels and the sub (2 channels bridged).

This makes for some interesting souud in the car. It will sound good at a few fader/volume combinaiton settings but not all.

as you fade front front to rear the sound mids anf hf will fade from rear to back but the bass will fade from front to rear so there will be few fader settings wher the bass and md/hf are balanced.

Try it and see if you like it. You could esp since you are driving.
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Old 26th September 2005, 11:05   #1797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin
I think what you are trying to say is that you got the a single pair fRCA connectors going from the pre out to the amp. then a Y connector near the amp feeds the preout signal to all 4 channels of the amp. the amp however is connected to the front channels and the sub (2 channels bridged).

This makes for some interesting souud in the car. It will sound good at a few fader/volume combinaiton settings but not all.

as you fade front front to rear the sound mids anf hf will fade from rear to back but the bass will fade from front to rear so there will be few fader settings wher the bass and md/hf are balanced.

Try it and see if you like it. You could esp since you are driving.

mmmm! I'm a lil confused. Let me rephrase my question.

my HU has just one Preamp Output - Rear/Sub Switchable.

To this HU if plan to connect
1) Componets in the front;
2) Coaxials in Rear; and
3) A sub in the boot.
4) Will be using only one 4 channel amp.

The questions
1) How exactly do we connect the above setup?
2) Will I be able to use fader control in this setup?
3) What control will I have over the other speakers?
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Old 26th September 2005, 11:16   #1798
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SM, there are 3 ways you can do this. Sam has listend 2 in his post 1785 and i have listd one more in post 1796. there are disadvantages to each method.
a) sam method 1 u loose front rear fader control
b) sam method 2 u loose LPF on the sub
c) my method you get limted settings where it sounds balanced.

you could try all 3 and see which you like best. all you are doing is connecting different speakers to different terminals on the amp and HU.
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Old 26th September 2005, 11:33   #1799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin
SM, there are 3 ways you can do this. Sam has listend 2 in his post 1785 and i have listd one more in post 1796. there are disadvantages to each method.
a) sam method 1 u loose front rear fader control
b) sam method 2 u loose LPF on the sub
c) my method you get limted settings where it sounds balanced.

you could try all 3 and see which you like best. all you are doing is connecting different speakers to different terminals on the amp and HU.
Was getting unnecessarily confused - mixed up something somewhere and boom - Confusion.!!

But yes, got it figured out now.

Thank you,Navinji! Think I'll check out Sam's option 1 first and then see....will report once the setup is done. Probably tomorrow.

Just another thing. Zzehar's idea to test two brands looks interesting - One brand on Left channel and one brand on right channel. Then shifing sound from left channel to right channel we can have a real time comparsion of the brands.

Looks good to me. Or is there something that could go amiss ?
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Old 26th September 2005, 11:48   #1800
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This test is very approximate. but it is better than no test.
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