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Old 28th December 2005, 21:27   #2716
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Originally Posted by Autophile
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And FYI the class A is the amplifier design which offers you the maximum fidelity as it can eliminate the crossover distortion (because of components resistors, inductors, capacitors etc)....

Using class AB or class D in your car has nothing to do with your power shortage as it is purely theoretical. Use them and you will see for yourself.
1. the distortion you eliminate is not crossover but switching distortion. it happens when the transistors switch on and off and create harmonics. the human ear is less irritated by even ordered harmonics than odd ordered harmonics. this is one area where tubes score over solid state. In fact even with tube amps Triodes have lesser 2nd order harmonics then Pentodes. UL tube amps are a good balance between triodes and pentodes.

2. In any case if you ever hear a Class A amp you will rarely be tempted to buy a Class AB, B, AB1, H, T, D amp.

Now this is what I'd suggest....

below 100Hz or 80Hz use Solid State class AB. Between 100 and 2000Hz use UL tube. Above 2000Hz use a triode tube. You can compromise by using Class AB1 instead of Class A with this combo. Another compromise is Push Pull (PP) over Single Ended (SE) only due to cost and availablity of the components used to make a SE amp.
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Old 28th December 2005, 21:31   #2717
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Originally Posted by amit1101
most of the new class ab amps have less than 0.1%THD+noise, any Total Harmonic distortion(THD) less than 1% is hardly audible
I'd recommend using your ears before you use meters and scopes. I do not subscribe to Julian Hirsch's school of design. JH (lord rest his soul) did qualify that listening tests should also be conducted and his lab measurements did bring some order to the mass of Mid-Fi available in today's market. He also popularised FFT and Spectral plots.
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Old 28th December 2005, 23:07   #2718
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[quote=navin]1. the distortion you eliminate is not crossover but switching distortion. it happens when the transistors switch on and off and create harmonics. the human ear is less irritated by even ordered harmonics than odd ordered harmonics. this is one area where tubes score over solid state. In fact even with tube amps Triodes have lesser 2nd order harmonics then Pentodes. UL tube amps are a good balance between triodes and pentodes.

in class AB push pull either even or odd, i think odd harmonics are removed.
when you make a bridge both the even and odd harmonics are canselled out.

please advice what is UL tube.

i'll try my best to hear class A ASAP
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Old 28th December 2005, 23:45   #2719
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Interesting discussion going on here. Amit, since you are into DIY, why not make your own Class A amp. Check out John Linsley Hood, Pass or Hiraga Le Monstre amps. They are the popular ones.

I have been planning to build one but have never got around to doing it. I had just started off with a Pass Balanced Zen Line Stage pre-amp but only the PSU is done.
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Old 29th December 2005, 13:38   #2720
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vivekphadnis
Interesting discussion going on here. Amit, since you are into DIY, why not make your own Class A amp. Check out John Linsley Hood, Pass or Hiraga Le Monstre amps. They are the popular ones.

I have been planning to build one but have never got around to doing it. I had just started off with a Pass Balanced Zen Line Stage pre-amp but only the PSU is done.
yes nice idea, i will make a class AB and class A both
then i'll see whats the diffrence
i found these ohn Linsley Hood, Pass or Hiraga Le Monstre amps on google
thanks a lot
but what are these ohn Linsley Hood, Pass or Hiraga Le Monstre amps, are they designs or some makers.
will check them out in details after my exams

whats a Pass Balanced Zen Line Stage pre-amp, is it a preamp for your amp,

WAT have you used in PSU,transformer or chopper, i am having real problems with the power supply unit design
o/p duty cycle of a chopper is low and i dont know how to make a powerful transformer, can you please help me with PSU
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Old 29th December 2005, 16:19   #2721
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Navin, you are right about the switching distortion. But class A does eliminates the passive crossover distortion because of the output stages being on all the time.

Amit the THD does not matter its the amplifier design and sound which matters. I can show you amplifiers with claimed distortion of less than 0.01% which does not sound good and on the other hand the amplifier with 0.1% distortion sounds faboulos.

FYI all the tube amps have much higher distortion than the solid state amplifiers but they sound much more involving, rich, smooth than the solid state amplifiers.

So believe on hearing rather than specs. And once you hear then you will dump all this written material and specifications.

Last edited by Autophile : 29th December 2005 at 16:23.
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Old 29th December 2005, 21:56   #2722
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amit1101
yes nice idea, i will make a class AB and class A both
then i'll see whats the diffrence
Also make sure the wires, crossover components, etc. are also revealing enough.

shame to waste a good amp.

UL = ultra linear = sort of a half way house between triode and pentode.

Last edited by navin : 29th December 2005 at 21:59.
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Old 29th December 2005, 22:06   #2723
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Autophile
Navin, you are right about the switching distortion. But class A does eliminates the passive crossover distortion because of the output stages being on all the time..
passive crossover components! I am so much into active and fullrange/widerange that i forgot about these. :-)
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Old 29th December 2005, 22:29   #2724
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JLH and Nelson Pass are famous amp designers. I am not sure about Hiraga. I suppose he too is an amp designer.

The balanced zen line stage is a pre-amp. I am building it to go with the Electronics For You power amp I built some time ago.
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Old 30th December 2005, 11:44   #2725
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Tum log yaar, blody baccha log ko dara dega. Kya yeh sab Hiraga and Hirsch. People will run screaming from this place we call home.

This is a car audio advice forum, remember? Speakers, amps, MP3 players, cars, budgets. Try and remember *shaking Vivek and Navin and JB* Kya tumhe yaad aa raha hai? Those lovely days when we gave car audio advice
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Old 30th December 2005, 22:35   #2726
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yeah we digressed a bit. showing off our collective ignorance i guess. :-) sorry.
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Old 30th December 2005, 23:23   #2727
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Sorry from me too. How about having a team-bhp home audio section?
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Old 31st December 2005, 00:57   #2728
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guys i wanted to know that in a santro xing whats the max size of the speaker in front and in the rear in the default i.e. the standard provisions that are given from the company
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Old 31st December 2005, 01:42   #2729
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Quote:
Originally Posted by princesri1981
guys i wanted to know that in a santro xing whats the max size of the speaker in front and in the rear in the default i.e. the standard provisions that are given from the company
Santro Xing takes 4" in the front stock locations,



and upto 5.25" in the rear stock locations.



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Old 31st December 2005, 10:13   #2730
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gunbir, JB i had a question for you guys. I have a new esteem and have installed the front speakers in the speaker pods which are 4 inchers. The problem is that the outer casing(grill) present on the dashboard covering the speakers is touching the tweeter of the MA-Audio coaxial speakers(4 inchers), thereby it cant be fit back into place again. Is there any way out to this problem? I love the installs that u guys have done, especially the getz. It looks and is done fabulously.
And secondly i heard a lot about Hertz and Audison line of amps, speakers etc. Is there a place in Mumbai where i can purchase this stuff coz i am looking out for improving the sound in my car. Love clean sound with punchy bass, not booming. My setup sooo far reads
Pioneer-P1Y -HU
JBL GTO 936 -Rears
MA AUDIO Y3040K -Fronts(4inch coaxials)
How do you guys rate this system?
I am looking for additions like an amp, maybe 2 if my battery can take it without any effects to the warranty of my car, and a sub(dont want to drill a hole in the parcel shelf). No idea on the wiring and stuff. Please guide me coz i do not know much about it. Budget of approx 20-25k for this stuff, cheaper would be better.
When u guys planning to come to mumbai? would love to have a perfect install done by the perfectionists..

Thanks....
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