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Old 23rd December 2006, 01:04   #4891
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damn hydra just when you were freaking me out with your sager advice you say you dont know how to convert cu. ft. to liters. well 28.316 liters is 1 cu. ft. it is like the value of pi you either know it or you dont. maybe this old man is not completely useless.

also with my earlier post when i meant metallic i meant a certain timbre. this can be compensated for in a few ways. modifiying the XO is the one option that is reversable.

Last edited by navin : 23rd December 2006 at 01:06.
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Old 23rd December 2006, 08:33   #4892
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Navin, I'm a chronic number-hater (and a little lazy around them). Whenever I see numbers and conversions, I close my eyes, smile a stupid smile and pretend I'm someplace else . I've been a commerce and biz guy all my life, right up to my professional degree (no tech education). If I have to crunch serious numbers any day, I have nightmares that night. I did have freakin' good results for science back in school, though *swells-up and thumps chest*.

And I think that slight metallic timbre is actually a hallmark of all higher-end Blau speakers. It is especially pronounced in the OD series (that I run currently -- but not for long, heh heh, watch this space). Its nice to know my ears picked up something you did .
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Old 23rd December 2006, 14:59   #4893
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrashok View Post
@vikram_d, you seem to have chosen a good sub. I googled it and everybody seems to be giving it good reviews. Apparently the recommended enclosure size for this sub is 0.85 to 1.75 Cubic Feet. (Source: http://www.audioallies.com/GetItem.asp?Item=TS-W306DVC). Get one built with 0.75" MDF or 1" MDF and you're good to go :-)

Another place says 24 to 49.6 liters (I have no idea about converting CuFt to liters, so couldn't cross check earlier spec) is the ideal size. For the gurus who can calculate enclosure size, these are the specs:
Link/Source: Pioneer TS-W306C 12" 1000W C-Type Subwoofer: Subwoofers - 12" - 30cm Subwoofers - TS-W306C - "car audio vehicle alarms suppliers and installers saving you up to 70 % discount compare with the high street stores"
and
Car Articles, Tips and Advice

OT: vikram's sub reminds me of lbm. He's busy overclocking his PC these days I guess :-)
Do you know any place from where I can source this original Pioneer enclosure?
Pioneer Electronics - Sound. Vision. Soul

Also in a Swift which side should the sub be facing for best effect? Top? Bottom, Front? Rear?

regards
Vikram

Last edited by vikram_d : 23rd December 2006 at 15:04.
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Old 23rd December 2006, 15:02   #4894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vikram_d View Post
Folks I have a Pioneer TS-W306DVC sub woofer in my car and currently it is fitted inside a local enclosure. I am looking for a good enclosure either an original Pioneer (model UD-W12) or any other good one for the sub. Please help me find one.

vikram, visit anwar's place and get it done.

changed your 6x9 ?

OT!

may,i have a large container of coffee

any idea what that means?

Last edited by jkdas : 23rd December 2006 at 15:04.
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Old 23rd December 2006, 15:10   #4895
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Yes removed the 6x9's altogether. Now just running the comps and the sub. The sound quality is much better now but I think it will be better with a good enclosure for the sub.

@hydrashok - At present the enclosure is such that the sub is facing downwards towards the spare wheel. The current enclosure is such that the sub is fitted upside down in it.

Last edited by vikram_d : 23rd December 2006 at 15:17.
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Old 23rd December 2006, 15:28   #4896
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vikram_d, generally, the sub's cone facing the back of the car is the best direction. But it varies from car to car and taste. In my car (palio 1.2) I find that the sub sitting in the rear LHS corner with the cone firing towards the rear RHS side suits me best.

All box installs I've seen in the Swift have the sub facing the rear of the car, with the cone firing toward the boot opening. lbm has two subs in his Swift, firing this way. He takes his ICE seriously, and his subs are about the same as yours (in fact from the just the looks of your sub and his subs, it looks like Pioneer does some rebadging-giri for their Premier series), so maybe that is the ideal position for the Swift. Check out his setup at http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/331583-post7.html

About the enclosure, you may find building a custom enclosure of the size I mentioned to be cheaper, quicker, and better for fitting in your car. As JK Das said, try Anwar. He does good quality work.
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Old 23rd December 2006, 15:53   #4897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrashok View Post
In my car (palio 1.2) I find that the sub sitting in the rear LHS corner with the cone firing towards the rear RHS side suits me best.

Uhhhh... CORRECTION: I meant that "I find that the sub sitting in the rear RHS corner with the cone firing towards the rear LHS side suits me best."

Saturday afternoons... (especially before long weekends)

JKDas, I think that right now, I need a large container of coffee too :-)
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Old 24th December 2006, 02:43   #4898
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what is a capacitor and what does it do.
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Old 24th December 2006, 03:36   #4899
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@lancer_mania, here is a thread that should answer your question:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/car-en...mono-amps.html (Caps inside Mono amps?)
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Old 24th December 2006, 10:51   #4900
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Default Are all 4-ch amps bridgable to 3-ch?

Experts! I need some help.

While trying to finalize an amp for the setup in my Adventure, had this strange doubt. I hope Navin, Sam or other experts here could clear it.

My setup:
I have an Alpine 9830 driving Infinity Reference 5010cs and 4012i. I wanted to go for a 4-channel amp (2 to drive the front components and the other 2 bridged for the sub), but I couldnt find the sub I wanted in Pune. So I postponed the amp purchase.

My plan:
I am "keen" on Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1. It looks very efficient and requires only a tiny enclosure. I am looking for tight accurate bass, hence it will have to be a sealed enclosure. I shortlisted the drivers based on this requirement.

My problem:
Now, as the components are rated 70w RMS and not power hungry, I thought Alpine F250 would suffice to drive them. And bridge the other 2 channels to drive the sub. But that would give me only 100w at 4ohms. The 10.1, it is an SVC alright, is rated 75-300RMS. The problem doubled as the sealed enclosure would be less efficient, or would need more power. I am getting to the title of the post --

I looked around for another 4-ch amp that can drive larger power and sort of zero-ed in on Infinity Reference 7541A. I have now two issues:

(1) The 7541 pushes 111w RMS into 4 channels. Is it safe to drive the lower rated components with this? I promise I wont push it to extremes, but is this a cardinal sin?

(2) The bridged output is 278 which fits perfect for the sub in discussion, but the amp specs only say 111x4 or 278x2. It doesnt say 111x2 and 278x1. Alpine specs clearly say 4/3/2, while Infinity does not.

Hence the question, are *ALL* 4-ch amps bridgable to 3-ch?

And if only 2 channels of 7541a cannot be bridged, which other amp should I use for this use case? I remember reading in the forum some issues regarding 75.4 not well suited to drive sub (Sam, toot mat pado, I will rephrase it as - I think I read...)

Thanks
Determinus
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Old 24th December 2006, 12:39   #4901
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GTS wrote:
Quote:
Head Unit:
Alpine 9857/9856.
I dont plan to have any amps or subwoofer right now, but will this head unit allow me to expand later on. What would be the approx price for this HU in the grey market AND with B&W.

Front:
Boston S series or Infinity Ref series compos 5.25". What should be the right price for the

Rear:
Boston NX(?) or Infinity Ref series Coax
9857 costs 24k and the 5.25" Reference 7k, both with B&W. The coaxials should be 4-5k approx. But you can get some good (1-2k) discounts. I dont know about the grey prices though.

I have Infinity Reference 5.25" components driven by an Alpine HU (18w). The sound quality is really good, but from what I have heard so far, they need an amp to sing. Also the metal tweeters are a little bright, though clarity is outstanding for the price. I am hoping that they will break-in soon. Amps are highly recommended though.
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Old 24th December 2006, 14:52   #4902
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deter; get it. it has lpf and hpf and hence it should run fine in 3 channel mode and see "mono " switch ?
Infinity Reference 7541a 4-channel car amplifier 111 watts RMS x 4 at Crutchfield.com

me correct guys?

Last edited by jkdas : 24th December 2006 at 14:54.
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Old 24th December 2006, 15:26   #4903
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@determinus, nice choice of speakers :-)

Between the Infinity Ref 7541a 4-ch and the GTO75.4, go for the GTO75.4. The substantial difference in price doesn't warranty the uhhh... lack of substantial difference in specs. I'm Sam will also agree :-) And the 75.4 will drive the sub well enough.

If you can bridge 2 channels of any amp, it will run as 4/3. And in nearly all cases 4/3/2 (if both front & rear channels can be bridged, as is the usual practice).

The GTO75.4 will do 4/3/2. I just checked manual (available for download on JBL - Home, Car & Professional Audio)

The 75.4 feeds 104w RMS to each channel. As long as you set the gains of the amp safely, there is nothing to worry. In fact, feeding a little extra gives great response from speakers in this range. And, in your case, the ref5010cs does 75w to 225w (max). Nothing at all to worry about. Amp away!

The Kappa Perfect 10.1 (Infinity Kappa Perfect 10.1 10'' 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com) is pretty sensitive at 94dB. And the recommended power range is between 75 and 350w. The 75.4 should do a good enough job here.
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Old 24th December 2006, 16:37   #4904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hydrashok View Post
@determinus, nice choice of speakers :-)

Between the Infinity Ref 7541a 4-ch and the GTO75.4, go for the GTO75.4. The substantial difference in price doesn't warranty the uhhh... lack of substantial difference in specs. I'm Sam will also agree :-) The 75.4 should do a good enough job here.
yeah I agree. There is no substantial difference between those two amps, for some strange reason lol.
Determinus, i have not come across a 4 channel amplifier (for the car) that could not be bridged into 3 or 2 channels.

The 75.4 does do a pretty decent job of driving subs.... but with kappa PERFECT, i would give it as much power as i could.
However, no harm done with a more powerful amplifier if driven sensibly, in fact it is easier to blow up speakers with a lower powered amplifier, than a higher powered one.
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Old 24th December 2006, 19:38   #4905
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Red face

Quote:
There is no substantial difference between those two amps, for some strange reason lol.
Sam being an insider, I cant help this suspicious look forming on my face :-)

Quote:
Determinus, i have not come across a 4 channel amplifier (for the car) that could not be bridged into 3 or 2 channels.
My doubt was about the 3-ch part. But when you say "you have not come across", that more than settles it. Perfect. And with jkdas pointing out the console details of 7541, I think I have a quick answer. (Thanks @jkdas, for looking under the belly)

BTW, why is the 75.4 more expensive than 7541? I always thought Infinity > JBL. Or is it that GTO > Reference?

Quote:
The 75.4 feeds 104w RMS to each channel. As long as you set the gains of the amp safely, there is nothing to worry. In fact, feeding a little extra gives great response from speakers in this range. And, in your case, the ref5010cs does 75w to 225w (max). Nothing at all to worry about. Amp away!
Thanks Hydra for the reassuring words. My "power vs blow" worry was about the references. I had no doubts about the Perfect :-)

I think, I may have a new problem now - at GTO amp's Indian price (12-13k), I can probably source a "better" 4-ch like Alpine F450 or a small 2-ch and a mono from the US. Should I consider that path?

BTW, Sam, can one get the Perfect 10.1 with B&W in India? I couldnt find any in Pune. How much does it cost? I heard they discontinued it for the 10.1 DVC. True? Crutchfield has a buy one get one free on the 10.1 which brings the price to $75!! (drool)

Thanks all.
Determinus
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