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Old 11th August 2007, 23:55   #6856
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Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
What is your budget? You can go for 75.4 also.
Arrey what is this 75.4 bimari lol. CS300.1 is cheaper. The MRP of this product is 9,990/- maybe you'll get some discount.
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Old 12th August 2007, 00:56   #6857
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Arrey what is this 75.4 bimari lol. CS300.1 is cheaper. The MRP of this product is 9,990/- maybe you'll get some discount.

Sam Bhai it is not bimari it is a very versatile amp. which can play speakers and subs also..100 baato ke ek baat..75.4 is the best...
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Old 12th August 2007, 23:39   #6858
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Thumbs up Job done!

Hi Gurus,

I finally decided to buy the GTO1264 + Blaupunkt 280. Thanks for all the help Sam and LBM.

01. HU: Alpine CDA - 9854R
02. FS: Blaupunkt Velocity VSc 662 (6.5", Compo's)
03. RS: Infinity Reference - 9613i (6"x9")
04. Amp 1: JBL CS 60.4
05. Amp 2: Blaupunkt 280 (1x210w rms)
06. SW: JBL GTO1264 - Ported enclosure
07. EFX cables

The system sounds excellent. The base is tight enough and the has just about adequate boom. I love this Alpine + Infinity + JBL + Blaupunkt combination.
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Old 13th August 2007, 00:08   #6859
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Originally Posted by sushanthr77 View Post
Hi Gurus,

I finally decided to buy the GTO1264 + Blaupunkt 280. Thanks for all the help Sam and LBM.

01. HU: Alpine CDA - 9854R
02. FS: Blaupunkt Velocity VSc 662 (6.5", Compo's)
03. RS: Infinity Reference - 9613i (6"x9")
04. Amp 1: JBL CS 60.4
05. Amp 2: Blaupunkt 280 (1x210w rms)
06. SW: JBL GTO1264 - Ported enclosure
07. EFX cables

The system sounds excellent. The base is tight enough and the has just about adequate boom. I love this Alpine + Infinity + JBL + Blaupunkt combination.
thats a wicked cocktail
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Old 14th August 2007, 17:53   #6860
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Default Amplifier - Speaker matching

Is there any thumbrule for matching Amp and Speaker wattage ?

On this forum, I've read about
- 22w HU amps driving 60w speakers.
- 60w external Amps driving 75-80w speakers
- 100w external Amps driving 70w speakers
- 60w external Amps driving 60w speakers

I have also read that it is preferable to have an Amp with a higher power rating than the speakers. This prevents damage to speakers due to a phenomena called 'clipping', which can happen if the Amp power is lower than the speakers.

However, for most practical purposes all the above combinations seem to work fine, right ?

The question is. Is there any thumbrule that says, for optimum performance amp wattage should be between x-y% of speaker wattage ?

So, for example is there something like
- minimum 60w amp for 60-80w speakers
- minimum 75w amp for 80-100w speakers
- max 120w amp for 80-100w speakers
........


nb - all wattages are RMS values
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Old 14th August 2007, 18:13   #6861
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1. Think of it like voltage and bulbs. Put 240V into a 12v bulb and it goes pop.

2. But Hifi pandits also advise that a low power amplifier, turned right up and pumping distortion into the speakers is even more likely to do damage. Do you like to listen to distortion on your system? Some people do!

Remember, whatever the manufacturers or the sales guys (especially the sales guys) tell you, speakers do not have power (except active speakers which have an amp built in; different thing). They have power handling capacity.
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Old 15th August 2007, 12:30   #6862
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuvc View Post
Is there any thumbrule for matching Amp and Speaker wattage ?

On this forum, I've read about
- 22w HU amps driving 60w speakers.
- 60w external Amps driving 75-80w speakers
- 100w external Amps driving 70w speakers
- 60w external Amps driving 60w speakers

I have also read that it is preferable to have an Amp with a higher power rating than the speakers. This prevents damage to speakers due to a phenomena called 'clipping', which can happen if the Amp power is lower than the speakers.

However, for most practical purposes all the above combinations seem to work fine, right ?

The question is. Is there any thumbrule that says, for optimum performance amp wattage should be between x-y% of speaker wattage ?

So, for example is there something like
- minimum 60w amp for 60-80w speakers
- minimum 75w amp for 80-100w speakers
- max 120w amp for 80-100w speakers
........


nb - all wattages are RMS values
For normal SQ, amp & speaker selection criteria are different as compared to SPL. An approximate relationship is good enough, as long as one is not disproportionately incomparable to the other. There is no "optimum performance": depending on speaker sensitivity the output would sound loud or not at the same power level. One rarely reaches max levels in normal use.
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Old 15th August 2007, 15:12   #6863
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Originally Posted by jkdas View Post
thats a wicked cocktail
I second that. But we're happy as long as the owner is happy
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Old 16th August 2007, 11:30   #6864
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Quote:
Originally Posted by shuvc View Post
Is there any thumbrule for matching Amp and Speaker wattage ?
On this forum, I've read about
- 22w HU amps driving 60w speakers.
- 60w external Amps driving 75-80w speakers
- 100w external Amps driving 70w speakers
- 60w external Amps driving 60w speakers
1. all these rating are thermal ratings. in most cases speakers are more limited by the limits of their physical excursion than thermal limits. for example a 6" midbass will happily absrob 50W rms if it has a HP at 60hz but try asking it to take 50W rms at 30hz and you will hear a lo of distortion and may even physically damage the woofer.

2. clipping damages tweeters more than any other driver. because

a) unlike woofers and midranges you cant hear a tweeter complain (distortion and compression of the signal) as easily and all you hear is a sudden loss of all high frequencies.
b) clipping energy is all overtones (harmonics) and when a 10W am clips it concentrates all it's energy in overtones and harmonics which get diverted to the tweeter (by the crossover)

3. So when you are matching an amp to a speaker make sure that
a) the amp will not clip even at the loudest level you like
b) the tweeter and woofer can sustain the level of punishment assuning you amp is not clipping.
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Old 17th August 2007, 11:17   #6865
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akbaree View Post
SAM/NAVIN/GUNBIR

......Please pardon me as I don't understand the different genre of music like Rock, Pop, et al
i hope u're feelin better after your coma. please get well soon !
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Old 18th August 2007, 15:50   #6866
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Originally Posted by akbaree View Post
SAM/NAVIN/GUNBIR

I am buying Chevy Spark. The car will be delivered on Monday. I have started looking for the ICE setup that will go in the car.

I am planning on the following

HU - Alpine 9881
Front Components - Hertz Engergy/Infinity Reference
Rear Coaxials - Infinity Reference 6x9
4 Channel Amp - RF P450.4/Alpine MRP-F450

I have following questions

1. Which amplifier is better from the above two amplifiers? At-least what are the pros and cons of both of them.
2. The car is small and so I don't want to put a sub. Which 6x9 will give me best bass given that there is no sub
3. For front components, which would be a better choice Hertz or Infinity given that I mostly listen to bollywood music. Please pardon me as I don't understand the different genre of music like Rock, Pop, et al
4. What wiring should I go for with this set up?
5. How should I stage my rear speakers to get the best SQ?

Thanks
Please let me know if something is seriously wrong with this post. There have been no suggestions on this post. Mostly the bhpians are extremely helpful. I can put my questions differently only if I know what's wrong with this post?
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Old 18th August 2007, 17:00   #6867
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Dont know if this has been asked before or not but here goes.

All my MP3's now have a "The Replay Gain TAG" so that all tracks volume remain same. More info here: Replay Gain - A proposed standard

I want to know can HU's in car read this tag ?
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Old 18th August 2007, 19:45   #6868
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I know this has been asked "ad nauseam", but I cannot seem to get an answer to my problem.

I have an amp driving my speakers. I want to check if my front speakers are connected with proper polarity. I don't want to open the door for this, hence I cannot check if the cone moves forward when connected across a D cell. If I try reversing the connections on the amp will there be any difference in sound depending on the polarity?

2nd question: Speakers "in phase" and "out of phase" can only refer to a pair of speakers, or can a single speaker also be out of phase?
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Old 18th August 2007, 19:47   #6869
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Default Vendor quote: "The key for good sound quality is the way its installed"

I had been to this place called Metal Effects in Chennai. Mr. Charles who runs the place is known for his fibreglass mould work etc. I met up with him today for inputs on my car audio upgrade. He did not even take a second to listen to my Infinity comp/oval setup and outrightly says nah! not good and tells me
"The key for good sound quality is the way its installed" no matter what speakers or subs you use.

I asked him what speaker/sub components would he recommend and he tells me again it can be anything and guarantees good installation would bring out good sound out of any speakers and that it really does not matter if its an Infinity or a Hertz etc etc.... He also ridiculed(a big NO) to Dynamat.

He asked me to wait for a minute and gave me a demo of his setup on an Innova, it had a Pioneer headunit, Pioneer components on a kick panel for both front and rear door placement. He played my CDs and sounded, ahem! BAD. I still felt my current setup in my car sounded a lot better.

I had nothing more to ask him, thought I share this story with everyone here and know what you guys have to say about this.

Last edited by harmon_bro : 18th August 2007 at 19:55.
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Old 19th August 2007, 12:59   #6870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by akbaree View Post
Please let me know if something is seriously wrong with this post. There have been no suggestions on this post. Mostly the bhpians are extremely helpful. I can put my questions differently only if I know what's wrong with this post?
Why don't you try starting a new thread in the 'Ask the gurus' section?

You can post all the above with your budget so that it is better answered.
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