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Old 16th July 2008, 14:46   #8386
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From a SQ point of view, which one would be better?
Regular Alpine 1 DIN or JVC 2 DIN bling HUs? Am on a strict budget!!
Can't make up my mind. The "opening" in the dash is 2 DIN. Don't know if a 1DIN would look bad/ugly.
Personally, I prefer the simple 1 DIN setups. I don't really need DVD, touch screen and all that jazz.
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Old 16th July 2008, 14:57   #8387
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Hi Speedzak,

My car is a Honda City (NHC). I'm looking at 10-12k as the budget.
The cs300.1 is available for around Rs 6000 (grey).
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Old 16th July 2008, 15:21   #8388
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Originally Posted by ketchup View Post
... I need to select a sub that will go well with this amp, to be installed in the spare wheel well. ...
Any specific reason to do a SWW install? You can as well use the sides of the boot with a sealed box custom made out of Fiber Glass.

The primary criteria for the SWW sub is the clearance available above the bolt that holds the spare wheel down vis-a-vis the mounting depth of the sub.
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From a SQ point of view, which one would be better? Regular Alpine 1 DIN or JVC 2 DIN bling HUs? Can't make up my mind. The "opening" in the dash is 2 DIN. Don't know if a 1DIN would look bad/ugly.
Personally, I prefer the simple 1 DIN setups. I don't really need DVD, touch screen and all that jazz.
If finished well with the dash kit, the 1DIN will look nice. The 2DIN looks sophisticated, but since you are able to consciously say that you don't want "all that jazz", you should go for 1DIN.
SQ wise, maybe the Alpine has a very slight edge over the JVC, especially if you use the TA feature of 9887 to integrate the system.
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Am on a strict budget!!
Mmphph ! Famous words on TBHP!!!
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Old 16th July 2008, 16:18   #8389
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Ketchup, it's not a good idea to go for a SWW sub install in a New Honda City unless you're very much forced to.
Do you have an LPG cylinder in the boot? Else, the sub in a box will occupy less than 10% of your boot.

SWW install is something which has to be done by an expert and it's a bit hard to attain the best sound if not taken good care of. So, the reason to discourage you.

If you still want an SWW install, then look for shallow mount subs. Illusion audio, Premier (Pioneer), Kenwood make them. Even the ID V3 is suitable for this install.
If you search the forum, there'll be more options you can choose from.
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Old 16th July 2008, 16:23   #8390
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I believe even Blaupunkt has a shallow sub in its range. Please correct me if I am wrong
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Old 16th July 2008, 16:32   #8391
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Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
Any non-polyester material will cause porosity in the resin and reduce strength and density. This is OK for decorative purposes (lamp stands and shades, etc.), not for your woofer box. With solvent based materials, the solvent will not get a chance to evaporate. You could try small patches / panels to check the results.
It is not for the box.I am planning to make fiberglass grill also,even if it reduces strength it should not be a problem since i am planning to use it as a final coat.What if i am using distemper. may be
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Old 16th July 2008, 17:20   #8392
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... I am planning to make fiberglass grill also, ...
Aha, so you are trying out something artistic! You had earlier said "Can i mix with the normal metallic paint with polyester resin" - you really need not do that. You only need to, after the grill structure is ready, prepare the surface to accept the final paint.

If you want the surface smooth, use NC-putty to even out the surface, then sand it down first with coarse and then gradually finer sand paper, ending with wet fine emery cloth. Then put a couple of coats of primer, and finally the finishing paint. The more you 'cut' (rubbing with wet fine emery cloth) after each layer, the smoother the surface.

Shush, no distemper!
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Old 16th July 2008, 18:03   #8393
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DerAlte sir, the dash kit will be either silver or black in color. Damn thing costs 6.5k and is eating into the HU budget! My main concern is the gaping hole in the middle of the dash.

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Mmphph ! Famous words on TBHP!!!
Indeed! I had planned to retain the stock HU. I've already extended the budget to fit in a 9884/9886. To utilize the TA feature in the 9887, I'll have to get a PHD!
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Old 16th July 2008, 22:28   #8394
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Aha, so you are trying out something artistic!
Me and artistic-my son says he can draw better circle than me now he is sitting next to me and asking about all smilies

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Shush, no distemper!
HEHEHE.I mean some sort of coloured powder sold by hardware shopes.While browsing some where(yahoo answers) i read about using oil paints??
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NC-putty
what is it and any details about source?

Last edited by mohang_j : 16th July 2008 at 22:39.
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Old 16th July 2008, 22:42   #8395
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Am on a strict budget!!
You have landed in wrong place those words don't have any meaning in team-bhp


Moderators: again i made mistake sorry.can you merge my posts.

Last edited by mohang_j : 16th July 2008 at 22:44.
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Old 17th July 2008, 08:00   #8396
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohang_j View Post
It is not for the box.I am planning to make fiberglass grill also
I would not recommend a fiberglass grill. A metal grill is much easier as the mesh is already readily available and all you need to do is cut and shape it and add a trim.
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Old 17th July 2008, 08:44   #8397
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I would not recommend a fiberglass grill. A metal grill is much easier as the mesh is already readily available and all you need to do is cut and shape it and add a trim.
I already have one grill with me.Let me give a second thought.I was planing to make something like this,and i know i cannot make one exactly the same .Fit and finishing will be problem
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Old 17th July 2008, 11:26   #8398
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@deralte & @Speedzak

Thanks for your inputs.

Reason for wheel well installation is for total stealth with flexibility to remove it in the future.

I also feel it would be easier to install in the Wheel Well, as we just need an mdf plank, nothing else. A side-enclosure with fiber glass would be more complex I thought.

However if the sound quality of a Wheel well installation is poorer I wouldn't do it. Do advise.
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Old 17th July 2008, 12:24   #8399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mohang_j View Post
I already have one grill with me.Let me give a second thought.I was planing to make something like this,and i know i cannot make one exactly the same .Fit and finishing will be problem
Oh I was thinking about the plain vanilla mesh grills from the past. These new fangled grills look more like hub caps than speaker grills and do not protect the cone from smaller objects or prying fingers.
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Old 17th July 2008, 14:05   #8400
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DerAlte sir, the dash kit will be either silver or black in color. Damn thing costs 6.5k and is eating into the HU budget! ...
You need to do some jugaad for that. Adhesive backed foil should take care of color matching. If the dash kit is not structural (holding up the HU) you could get something fabricated to match the original dash kit, and save a pile.
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... I'll have to get a PHD!
Oh no, you can't do it by getting a PhD. Those types (like the ones coming from a premier Bangalore institution) don't even give chanda during Puja.
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Originally Posted by mohang_j View Post
what is it and any details about source?
Hardware / paint stores, just ask for NC-putty. All neighborhood garages use that for dent repair jobs.
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Originally Posted by mohang_j View Post
I already have one grill with me ... Fit and finishing will be problem
Ask anyone from Chitrakala Parishad how they do it (no, not grills, but FG statues and murals)! Basically you need to create a PoP mould(s). Coat the mould with a thin coat of wax / linseed oil to seal the pores, then lay down the outermost (ultimately) coat first - undiluted automotive paint. Then do the FG work. Then finish it the way you want to.
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Originally Posted by ketchup View Post
... However if the sound quality of a Wheel well installation is poorer I wouldn't do it ...
The SWWS is more feasible in a hatchback with limited boot space, and with the common subs likely to be a bit boomy (not that boominess is bad).

Another solution for a sedan is the way @flying_bong has it - behind the rear seats facing forward. He has a 15" sub IIRC, but you could do it with a 12" also. The board HAS to be the full area behind the rear seat to act as an effective baffle.

The boot side installation can be a wood box also (which can be removed later), you only need a very good carpenter to do that. FG is easier - needs less skill to follow the contours - but costlier.

Last edited by DerAlte : 17th July 2008 at 14:08.
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