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Old 29th July 2008, 20:36   #8476
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Originally Posted by navin View Post
SRS,

People dont usually compliment me for my rants. .
If Music is an expression of art, then it's explanation in simple yet clear language is also an art and certainly not a rant.

Please do continue, as ever.

Am sure, even Sam agrees to this sentiment.

cheers:
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Old 29th July 2008, 21:52   #8477
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And the oscar for explaining anything and everything about music goes to ...Mr Navincheers:
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Old 29th July 2008, 22:21   #8478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
1. Violin range = 196 - 3,136Hz
What's in your Music
.
Gurudev i should have asked this to you only, but forgot to check more relaible sources.
Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
2. 6" have twice the cone area (Sd) of a 4" and usually 50% more cone travel (Xmax) than a 4". That menas that they can move 3 times more air than a 4" and hence produce more bass. Since in a car the subwoofer is rarely located in the front of teh car it makes sense to at least have a 6" woofer in the front. A 6" will be limited to about 60Hz and a 4" to about 100Hz. Although this difference (60 to 100Hz) is less than an octave it also falls in the area where road noise is most prevalent and hence a 6" in the front makes more sense.

3. A 6" woofer will have more limited dispersion when compared to a 4" the difference is usually in the range from 1200 to 3000Hz. After 3kHz even a 4" woofer's off axis response falls. Mix this with the fact that most 6" wofoers are located somewhere between your ankles and your knees and you wonder how to can hear any midrange at all. A 4" on your dash however will refelct off the windscreen so in theory it's response should also be inaccurate. Fortunately our ears, brain and to some degree the odd mix of materials (soft carpet and seats and hard dash and glass) in a car compesate for all of this.

4. Most music is not mixed to heard over headphones. Mixing engineers usually use what the industry calls "Monitor" speakers for this purpose. These speakers are usually (if we disregard the good ones like BBC, Sheffiled Sound, etc..) a 2 way placed over the mixing console.

Since the engineer is located very close to the monitor he mixes the sound accordingly. When the CD produced by this mix is played on your home stereo the bass gets support for boundary reflections reducing the relative level of the midrange, besides there midrange suffers from smear due to similar reflections and hence becomes a bit un-intelligible so the brain focusses on what is intelligible.

When the same CD is played on your ipod the midrange is not recessed or smeared and hence you hear the vocals more clearly. The ear is very senstive to the midrange so differences in this area are most obvious..
So thats why emphasis is more in front speakers. Whatever is their position, dashboard or doors, they are more directional than the rear speakers. And Mostly Rear ones are used as fillers.
If this is the case than it shouldn't make sense to invest more on rear speakers relative to front ones. A simple 4" coaxials will do the job. Please correct me wherever I am wrong.

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Originally Posted by navin View Post
Sorry for the rant.
Boss one can make out from all your posts, that its not just a hobby, you simply love music in real sense. And by seeing the way you write anybody can make out that you knows what you are saying. Whatever you wish to call it, we wish to have more of it.

Last edited by hrsraghav : 29th July 2008 at 22:22.
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Old 29th July 2008, 22:21   #8479
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A bit of topic, but another well written rant i found enlightening
Imperfect Sound Forever - Article - Stylus Magazine
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Old 29th July 2008, 23:02   #8480
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hrsraghav View Post
If this is the case than it shouldn't make sense to invest more on rear speakers relative to front ones. A simple 4" coaxials will do the job. Please correct me wherever I am wrong.
by investing in good front speakers we are trying to establish a sound stage like the artist/recording engineer wanted us to hear - ergo a sound stage that is in front of us.

BTW, I am not aware much of what has transpired in the audio industry since about 1995. My most active years were the early 80s. So please be warned that my knowledge is a quite dated.

Last time I was in a studio we used PCM on decks like the Sony 3324 and Studer A80 (with an external Doldy SR box) were used for 2 channel mix downs.
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Old 30th July 2008, 02:10   #8481
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Unhappy Pioneer 9650

Back to square one.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/ask-gu...tml#post670693

I had asked this question before but never got down to getting the job done.

Navin I got the HU from Dubai so don't have a seller to ask for help.

Like I said earlier, the main screen display on my Pioneer 9650 has conked off. I went to the authorised Pioneer A.S.S in Naraina (the same Autocop chaps) to get the thing tested and left the HU with them.

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They have detected the screen wiring harness (the flat small strip) as the culprit. This isn't available with them and they asked their HO in Nasik who apparently also do not have it in stock. I got a call from them yesterday to state this and that they will order the part straight from Japan but it can take up to 30-60 days

Has anyone faced the same problem and is there anyone else / other place which can help me regarding this? What will be the cost?
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Old 30th July 2008, 02:14   #8482
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Come down to FBD I can get it fixed. Will confirm about it tomm.
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Old 30th July 2008, 02:19   #8483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
Come down to FBD I can get it fixed. Will confirm about it tomm.
Thanks LBM, please confirm to me tomorrow about the availability and pricing and I will come to get it fixed.
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Old 30th July 2008, 10:08   #8484
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I bought this new Vinverth DVD/USB/SD head unit. It has 4x45W outputs, 4ch x 4v line outs, 1 video out, and a sub out. I've already got a fairly good Pioneer Head unit and speakers, so I thought I'd just change the head unit and add a Sub.

How do I use the sub out? Do I need an additional amp, or can I directly connect the sub to it? I tried searching for 'sub out' in the ICE forums and it came up with nothing. Help?
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Old 30th July 2008, 10:46   #8485
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You would need a additional amp to drive the sub.
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Old 30th July 2008, 10:48   #8486
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ankitahuja View Post
Thanks LBM, please confirm to me tomorrow about the availability and pricing and I will come to get it fixed.
Ya it can be done. Do let me know when you are coming down.
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Old 30th July 2008, 13:53   #8487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vivekgk View Post
How do I use the sub out? Do I need an additional amp, or can I directly connect the sub to it? I tried searching for 'sub out' in the ICE forums and it came up with nothing. Help?
To my best knowledge, sub out is just another line out which needs amplification just like any line out. There's no HU which can drive a good/big sub to its normal ranges with out amp (some HUs claim they can drive sub with speaker out, but only upto a level). They name those pre-outs as 'sub-out' because some of the sub woofer controls/eq settings are associated with those pair of outputs only unlike other pair (4 ch) line outs. Fo rexample subwoofer on/off (this line out get cuts), sub phase change (this line out is reversed), some LPF settings etc. Gurus, please let me know if I am right. Please add more to this if required. I see many people thinking sub-outs as direct subwoofer outputs which doesn't need any amplification .
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Old 1st August 2008, 19:14   #8488
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Default Sub enclosure

Hello,

I have bought a GTO 1264 sub, and am in the process of building a box for it. This sub requires a small enclosure of just 1 cuft. This is the box design I've come up with: a slim and short box which should be most unobtrusive in the boot.

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(Trapezium side of 13.5" x 4.5" x 14" x 8.25", and 20" long = 1cuft)

Sharing this for interest; comments from anyone if any are most welcome.

@vivekgk, you cannot connect the sub out to the sub. Its only the signal, you will need an amp: a monoblock (single ch) or a 2 ch amp you can bridge. Check the past few posts for discussion on sub amps.

Cheers, Giri
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Old 2nd August 2008, 01:06   #8489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ketchup View Post
Hello,

I have bought a GTO 1264 sub, and am in the process of building a box for it. This sub requires a small enclosure of just 1 cuft. This is the box design I've come up with: a slim and short box which should be most unobtrusive in the boot.



(Trapezium side of 13.5" x 4.5" x 14" x 8.25", and 20" long = 1cuft)

Sharing this for interest; comments from anyone if any are most welcome.

@vivekgk, you cannot connect the sub out to the sub. Its only the signal, you will need an amp: a monoblock (single ch) or a 2 ch amp you can bridge. Check the past few posts for discussion on sub amps.

Cheers, Giri
are you sure thats 1 cu ft
i may be mistaken but my calculations say .73 cu ft even if you use half inch MDF
Subwoofer Enclosure Calculators, Fraction to Decimal, Parallel, Series, Port Length and Volume Calculators
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Old 2nd August 2008, 11:00   #8490
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Hi Guys !!!

I have a Pioneer 6850
JBL GTO 937 Rear speakers
And some XYZ front speakers.

I also am in possession of original Alpine Rear Speakers that come installed in the OHC.

Will it be ok to install these in the front door pannels in the OHC? I dont want to spend toomuch and hence i am intending to do so. Any other cheap and better solution available?
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