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Old 30th December 2008, 13:53   #9076
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Its one set of + - to one voice coil each.
However i would strongly recommend you getting this done by a good installer as setting the correct "phase" of the sub is key to it playing well.
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Old 30th December 2008, 14:00   #9077
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arpandiv View Post
Its one set of + - to one voice coil each.
However i would strongly recommend you getting this done by a good installer as setting the correct "phase" of the sub is key to it playing well.
Thank you for your reply. If only my installer had known what he is doing, I wouldnt be asking too many questions here. BTW what do you mean by setting the correct "phase"?.
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Old 30th December 2008, 14:07   #9078
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parallel them ( both the + 's together , to the + of your amp, same for the -'s ) . i think your amp is 2 ohms stable , so there shouldnt be any issues
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Old 30th December 2008, 14:18   #9079
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Thank you. One last question and please answer this. Will the JBL Powerseries P1224 DVC sub go well with the JBL 3501 monoblock in a sealed enclosure?.

Also the poweroutput for the JBL 3501 says the following:

225W RMS x 1 Channels at 4 Ohms 360W RMS x 1 Channels at 2 Ohms

Does it mean it is stable at 2 ohms (when wired in parallel)?.

Last edited by drvhplyevraftr : 30th December 2008 at 14:24.
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Old 30th December 2008, 14:40   #9080
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since the amps has a rated output at 2 ohms , i guess it should be stable with the coils wired in parallel = 2 ohms .
and since the sub takes 400W RMS , it should do fine as well
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Old 30th December 2008, 15:09   #9081
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Where you got the JBL Powerseries P1224 DVC sub and how much you paid? stable at 2ohms means it wont harm the amp if you are powering any sub with 2ohms load as the lesser the ohms means more juice extracted from amp.
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Old 30th December 2008, 15:24   #9082
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I am yet to buy one and dont know its price. I shall let you know once I find out. I was told that the powerseries
components and sub are not available in grey and only available with B&W.

BTW anyone else on this forum know of the approximate prices?.

Last edited by drvhplyevraftr : 30th December 2008 at 15:25.
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Old 30th December 2008, 19:20   #9083
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I just got a quote for the JBL Powerseries P1224 sub. It is 24k with B&W. At 24k, I will have to look at other options. I dont know the price of it in grey.
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Old 31st December 2008, 00:22   #9084
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drvhplyevraftr View Post
I just got a quote for the JBL Powerseries P1224 sub. It is 24k with B&W. At 24k, I will have to look at other options. I dont know the price of it in grey.
What is you the price range you looking for ?
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Old 31st December 2008, 11:41   #9085
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Quote:
Originally Posted by low_bass_makker View Post
What is you the price range you looking for ?
I am looking for a 4+4 ohm DVC sub in the range of 10 - 12k to go with JBL 3501 monoblock that is rated at 360 watts at 2 ohms.

I am currently running the 3501 monoblock with JBL GT5-12 sub in a basstube. Yesterday I was trying to see how well it was performing. So at about 3/4 of the HU max volume I disconnected the RCAs for the front and rear speakers and played some tracks to see how the sound was coming from the subwoofer alone. To my horror, there was extremely feeble sound coming from the sub. I thought it might be because the gains and increased the gains a little bit. The sound from the sub increased a bit but it was no where close to clear precise bass. I tried to increase the bass using the remote control knob that comes along with the 3501 monoblock. The bass was too boomy causing too much of rattles in the boot and no where close to deep precise bass. I used this combination before without the monoblock and as far as I can recollect the performance was definitely better. I think this combination of monoblock with the GT5-12 in basstube is not correct. Infact whatever deep and clear bass that I am currently getting is because of the front and rear speakers as the sound remained the same with or without the RCAs for the sub connected. Would changing the sub to a better 4+4 ohm DVC sub in a sealed box solve the problem or is the problem because of something else?. Is the method that I tried to find the performance of the sub correct?. I want deep precise bass from the sub and use it optimally and also want to make sure that I reduce (or should I say increase) the frequency settings on the JBL 75.4 amp for the front/rear speakers so that I dont damage the speakers. Any inputs would be of great help to me. Thank you.

Last edited by drvhplyevraftr : 31st December 2008 at 11:52.
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Old 31st December 2008, 11:54   #9086
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You have similer requirment as mine check ID 10" as they have 4+4 ohms model, 12" models are quite powerful and JBL 3501 wont justify them, also if you can get check Infinity 1052 and 1252 they are DVC and 4+4 ohms power ratings are also suitable for your amp.
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Old 31st December 2008, 12:10   #9087
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like I told you a few posts back, the bass tube is the cause of all your problems. get a good sub in a properly designed enclosure and watch your system sing. try sprocket , since you are in hyd
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Old 31st December 2008, 12:55   #9088
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IF possible i suggest you audition the similar sub in a sealed enclosure tuned properly. the basstube is known for its boominess. there is nothing wrong with either your combo or your amp its the enclosure that is the problem. but thats my opinion.
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Old 31st December 2008, 13:32   #9089
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arpandiv View Post
@Sudipt123
I would suggest you get the door pannels cut and put in 6.5" components.
If you do want to stick to 4" then go in for Illusion 4" components they are good.
so your setup should ideally be HU+Front compos + Rear 6x9s + 1 amp (4 channel)
at a later stage you can add a sub.
your present quote of a sub+powered rears would not sound good since you would have HU powered co-ax in front.
I would suggest Pio HU, JBL GT-5 604 amp, illusion 4" components and JBL 6x9s.

edit: and be careful of milan subway installers!
Thank you for the clarification, have one more doubt- can a high power co-ax of 4" -say JBL GT5- S204 be powered by the amp without damaging the speakers. Also are the power handling quoted in the specs of the speakers are for single speaker or a pair?
note:- Illusion audio 4.1EL - 35W Rms
JBL GT5-S204 - 30W RMS
Audiobahn AS-40Q - 80W RMS

Some gurus in another thread have mentioned of 4" co-axes in the front dash pod being powered by the amp.

Ok, I'll do a stage wise upgrade- first 4" speakers & 6X9's (JBL's) with 4 channel amp and then later a Sub with a monoblock maybe. Which JBL's do you suggest for the rear? (947's or 938's) and finally which is a decent wiring kit? (should I go for a 4ga or 8ga). I'm still not decided about the sub install- maybe if required. Please suggest suitable RCA's as well.
Should I select the kenwood 8401 amp over the JBL GT5-604 ? what is the price difference between both.
p.s: - thanks about the milan subway tip. I guess I'll search for a good installer here.
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Old 31st December 2008, 13:39   #9090
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ajaybiz View Post
You have similer requirment as mine check ID 10" as they have 4+4 ohms model, 12" models are quite powerful and JBL 3501 wont justify them, also if you can get check Infinity 1052 and 1252 they are DVC and 4+4 ohms power ratings are also suitable for your amp.
Quote:
Originally Posted by greenhorn View Post
like I told you a few posts back, the bass tube is the cause of all your problems. get a good sub in a properly designed enclosure and watch your system sing. try sprocket , since you are in hyd
Quote:
Originally Posted by valhallen.282 View Post
IF possible i suggest you audition the similar sub in a sealed enclosure tuned properly. the basstube is known for its boominess. there is nothing wrong with either your combo or your amp its the enclosure that is the problem. but thats my opinion.
Thank you for your replies. So the procedure that I tried is correct?. Should the sound be audible and clear from the sub at 3/4 of the HU volume and should not sound too feeble or boomy correct?. Please let me know. Thank you.
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