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Old 1st June 2009, 17:08   #9451
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Hi navin,

Excluding the HU, the budget for speakers is 150 USD (Have the option of sourcing from the US). The original plan was to not have an Amp+S/W in step-1 of the upgrade.

No auditions yet. Working on it.

Which Co-Ax's will you recommend in the list attached ?

The search is on..

Cheers

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Originally Posted by navin View Post
If you are intent on using stock pods for the Santro get good coax speakers the stock pods are poor locations and dont offer you much room for components.

if you want bass get a subwoofer. Even a small 10" sub will help.

1. have you set a budget for this?
2. which speakers have you heard? and liked?
3. the santro is not an easy car to ice well. take your time.
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Old 1st June 2009, 20:27   #9452
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@Chetan - Dude thats a pathetic install. Besides the tutor goof up, the black cloth he has used on the MDF is not looking good at all, he should put grey reksin (sp??)..
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Old 1st June 2009, 21:33   #9453
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@Chetan - Dude thats a pathetic install. Besides the tutor goof up, the black cloth he has used on the MDF is not looking good at all, he should put grey reksin (sp??)..
to top it, i had waited 1.5yrs to get things right. so one can imagine the frustration. initially was looking for DIY project, but was afraid as i am totally new to this area.
now wondering whether i could have done better.

also i was exhausted, too lazy on the install day.
had played lot of cricket in the morning and had some heavy lunch just before deciding for ICIing as my wifey n kid were travelling. Atleast should have been ready with printouts of similar older installs.
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Old 1st June 2009, 22:28   #9454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chetans View Post
that was the last thing i ever wanted

i am thinking like we can keep some old nonfunctional tweeters as fillers and move the new tweeter to proper place.
i am not sure whether to go for mirror location or in dash location or front door location for the tweeter. did search for this and mostly mirror is seem to be suggested. but i have not found any post here related to wagonr with such setup.
The original idea was to suppress the brightness of the tweeters, it sounded fine as the experiment, looks like its gone out of the books, though it sounded okay, the thought behind this was there is about a 3 to 4 mm gap between the tweeter location now and the dash board sides, the treble reflects and comes pretty clean,
However, this maybe wrong WRT a lot of basics, just tired something new.

@ Chetans, I have a viable solution to relocate the tweeter without making any extra holes etc, come down sometime and we will do it, you don't have to have any empty holes in the door pads after I am done.
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Old 1st June 2009, 22:44   #9455
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Okay, I get the concept now. Bose tried the direct/reflecting principle, without much success. But plastic isnt the best of reflective surfaces

Last edited by Rudra Sen : 2nd June 2009 at 15:35. Reason: As requested
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Old 2nd June 2009, 08:10   #9456
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Quote:
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Okay, I get the concept now. Bose tried the direct/reflecting principle, without much success. But plastic isnt the best of reflective surfaces
Most wave guides, reflectors, etc.. from Bose, Mission, B&O, etc.. have not been successful in producing a clean treble. The reasons are obvious (short wavelengths, phase smear, etc..). The few waveguides I have seen that work well are ones that are not ambitous. The best I have heard is the one on SS 9900 revelator tweeter. The design is over 15 years old now and even SS/Focal/Dyn/PHL/etc.. have not come up with anything better.

Green, lets steer away from controversies ok. I am proud to say that ICE requires minimum moderation. Lets keep it that way. chalo main meeting ke liya late hoon.
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Old 2nd June 2009, 11:34   #9457
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Default Bridging Front and Rear Outputs

Can one bridge the front and rear outputs from a HU to a single set of speakers?

The speakers in consideration are Illision Electra 4.1 rated at 35 W (::* i l l u s i o n** a u d i o* ::) or 45 W per Hermit Audio (Hermit Audio Pvt. Ltd.)

The HU (Clarion DXZ585USB CD receiver at Crutchfield.com) is rated at 21 W RMS/Channel - so bridging would bring it up to 42 RMS?

This may be against a basic audio principle - so please bear with the novice.

If the above is indeed possible - what are the drawbacks to consider?

Will a front-only set-up with IL Audio EL 4.1(bridged) provide for sufficient bass?

Cheers,
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Old 2nd June 2009, 12:13   #9458
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Originally Posted by blueraven316 View Post
The original idea was to suppress the brightness of the tweeters, it sounded fine as the experiment, looks like its gone out of the books, though it sounded okay, the thought behind this was there is about a 3 to 4 mm gap between the tweeter location now and the dash board sides, the treble reflects and comes pretty clean,
However, this maybe wrong WRT a lot of basics, just tired something new.

@ Chetans, I have a viable solution to relocate the tweeter without making any extra holes etc, come down sometime and we will do it, you don't have to have any empty holes in the door pads after I am done.
sure. i am still banking on your experience
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Old 2nd June 2009, 13:50   #9459
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Default Difference between GTO, Kappa and Reference

Hello,

Given a non-amped set-up in a Santro-box, with all other things being equal - how do the following three compare in terms of sound:

Infinity Kappa 42.7i + 52.9i
Infinity Reference 4022i + 5022i
JBL GTO 427+527

Music primarily rock - classic, grunge, acoustic.. clarity/fidelity is important.

The HU powering this setup will be a Clarion DXZ585USB

thanks
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Old 2nd June 2009, 17:08   #9460
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naidusown, you can't bridge the HU's amps. they are already bridged internally.
details on this thread
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/produc...el-inputs.html

In fact, I had posted it a few pages back on this very thread!
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Old 2nd June 2009, 21:58   #9461
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blueraven316 View Post
The original idea was to suppress the brightness of the tweeters.
There are easier ways.

The easiest for me would be to reduce the Q of the tweeter XO. Most manufacturers use a high Q XO to protect the tweeter. however this also introduces a slight bump the the systems respoien around the tweeter XO freq (usually 2-4kHz). this area is also where the ear is most sensitive to nasties. Reducing the Q of the tweeter's XO helps remove this but also reduces the degree of protrection the tweeter has. If you are a careful user then this is the best alternate. obviously you void all warranties.

the next best alternate is to take thin muslin cloth and cover the metal grill of the tweeter however this method also reduces the top end response (above 10kHz) hence reducing the feeling of 'air'.

lastly angling the tweeter off axis so that the tweeter's axis is not at the listener's ear can be used the negative is that while most tweeters are rollled of off axis the roll off happens above 10k and the off axis response curves are not the smoothest (certainly not as smooth as on-axis curves).
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Old 2nd June 2009, 22:02   #9462
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Default bridge to nowhere!

thanks greenhorn.. Getting used to the search in the forum..
any notes on the comparison of GTO, Kappa and Reference series?
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Old 3rd June 2009, 12:08   #9463
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Quote:
Originally Posted by naidusown View Post
any notes on the comparison of GTO, Kappa and Reference series?
I have heard all 3 but I dont want my opinion to influence yours. Please listen to all 3 and let us know which you prefer.
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Old 3rd June 2009, 20:59   #9464
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
the negative is that while most tweeters are rollled of off axis the roll off happens above 10k and the off axis response curves are not the smoothest (certainly not as smooth as on-axis curves).
Hi Navin, this is interesting stuff. Sorry for the noobish thought, but i didn't know response curves could be different for on-axis and off-axis hearing! :-) Why is it so exactly?
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Old 4th June 2009, 14:50   #9465
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Any reviews on the Morel Focal pulse 6*9?

Morel Loudspeakers - Mobile Audio - Point Source Speakers - Pulse Coax

thanks
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