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Old 24th January 2010, 09:29   #9916
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Originally Posted by The Saint View Post
why there is jarring on some songs (mp3 songs 320kbps file), these songs use to play absolutely fine earlier, just off late they have started jarring,

I have put a new as per Jl audio specs MDF box with a side cut for the air to pass, it is a monster woofer, all as per the Jl manual.
1. check the surround (the rubber edge around the cone)
2. block that hole in the MDF box.

report the findings and lets see.
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Old 24th January 2010, 11:34   #9917
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Navin, could the "side cut for the air to pass" be a rectangular port by chance?
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Old 24th January 2010, 13:33   #9918
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Originally Posted by navin View Post
1. check the surround (the rubber edge around the cone)
2. block that hole in the MDF box.

report the findings and lets see.
Thanks navin, I went to Ajay last evening, I believe he is one of the gurus here, it is not that the tunning has an issue, the issue is that whenever we tune it to our preference and we are happy with the effects after couple of days the sound is different, i mean it does not retain the settings for some reason, then i go back to the installer and then he does the settings again, then it is back to the same effects.

Ajay has asked me to visit him at four season on saturday (my installer is Zohir from The Boom Store, sweet guy and knows his job, even he is shocked with the variation), Ajay also confirmed that nothing wrong with the sub, so that he can do a full check up, we did put some stuff in the side cut (i know still the air must be passing, but the report with temp arrangement was with the cut it was sounding tighter, the JL manual diagram gives both the options, we went with the cut option, as if it is a sealed box then the box is unable to pass air and it is so pwerful that the box moves towards the end of the boot and that is how i damaged my first one).

Appreciate if some one can throw light on why the settings are going heywire , though no one is touching them.
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Old 24th January 2010, 13:41   #9919
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Default As per Jl manual

Below is the pic of the box the way it is in my car. i have picked up sample pic but mine is a ditto copy.
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Old 24th January 2010, 18:06   #9920
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hey guys, finally almost ready to get my i10 ice'ing done, with a budget of around 20k. Quote for components i've gotten are

pio 4250SD - 7.3k ( another guy 6.3 w/o bill sayin u cant get with bill) - for ipod touch , iphone etc primarily.
jbl gto608c comp - 4k Or infinity 6030cs - 6.x k
jbl gto638 rear door speakers - 2k (?? i am unsure here, will ve to ask again , but thats what he said)
wiring - 3k for jbl kit, 300 for local, 1200/1500 for some brand ( caliber i believe)
amp 2 ch for comp - 3200 (jbl i believe) or amp 4ch for all speakers - 5.8k kenwood.

Not planning on getting any damping done yet, but should I get a mdf box to place speakers in as well?
Also, please help me out on the prices and tweak the components I've chosen.
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Old 25th January 2010, 11:22   #9921
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Saint View Post
it is so pwerful that the box moves towards the end of the boot and that is how i damaged my first one).

Appreciate if some one can throw light on why the settings are going heywire , though no one is touching them.
1. A port in a box is tuned to reinforce the bass. It does so by creating a helmholtz resonator (the port functions as the “neck” of the resonator and the box functions as the “cavity"). Ported boxes are more efficient (go lower and play louder than comparable sealed box designs) but suffer from 2 issues. (a) the driver's parameters are very important - a sealed box is more tolerant of variations in driver (T/S) parameters) and (b) below Fb (box resonant frequency) there is no resistance offered to the driver hence if the speaker is driven hard below Fb it can loose control and hit Xmax limits very fast. A sealed box offers resistance to the driver across the entire band of frequencies so will not allow the driver to de-couple and hit Xmax as easily.

2. If you want to prevent the box from "walking" you can velcro it to the carpet in the trunk.

3. take the amp outside the car and test. see if the settiings still change.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mailmaldi View Post
i10
budget of around 20k.
pio 4250SD - 7.3k
jbl gto608c comp - 4k
jbl gto638 rear door speakers - 2k
wiring - 3k for jbl kit
amp 4ch for all speakers - 5.8k kenwood.

Not planning on getting any damping done yet, but should I get a mdf box to place speakers in as well?
JBLs are usually more forward (more HF) than Infinity. I have not heard the latest incarnations (but have heard the 607/637 and 6020) of the speakers you have chosen but I suspect that Harman will have retained the sonic signatures of both their brands. Also I suspect the 638 will cost more than 2K hence I recommend the 608 over the 6030 to keep your budget close to 20K. If you can afford a bit more then by all means listen to both JBL and Infinity.

Stick to a orignial wiring kit.

You do not need a MDF box as you do not have a subwoofer.

The Kenwood 8404 (at 6K) is a good amp.
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Old 25th January 2010, 13:06   #9922
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[quote=navin;1698508]1. A port in a box is tuned to reinforce the bass. It does so by creating a helmholtz resonator (the port functions as the “neck” of the resonator and the box functions as the “cavity"). Ported boxes are more efficient (go lower and play louder than comparable sealed box designs) but suffer from 2 issues. (a) the driver's parameters are very important - a sealed box is more tolerant of variations in driver (T/S) parameters) and (b) below Fb (box resonant frequency) there is no resistance offered to the driver hence if the speaker is driven hard below Fb it can loose control and hit Xmax limits very fast. A sealed box offers resistance to the driver across the entire band of frequencies so will not allow the driver to de-couple and hit Xmax as easily.

2. If you want to prevent the box from "walking" you can velcro it to the carpet in the trunk.

3. take the amp outside the car and test. see if the settiings still change.


Thanks mate, yesterday there was something weird that I observed, from day before to yesterday the only thing that I did was I removed the USB and uploaded some songs, when I left my house there was literally no base coming out of the sub.

Following were the observations:

1. When I reached the installer the base resumed to a certain extent, but the punch was still not there, I spoke to my old installer in delhi and they fit screen almost everyday (you know how is north), he said there is some issues with DDX 7039 kenwood or lets say in Kenwood and also in JVC where in they hang sometimes and require a reset, so I pressed the re-set button.
2. We retuned to the HU again to the same settings like xover for speakers and sub, audio control, equalizer etc.
3. I had to take the sub woofer control from the HU to almost 10 which last and then could get the base the way it use to be, I showed it to the installer and he was surprised to (my friend was not there, it was his guy only).
4. I left his place and must have gone 1km or so and the base levels went up (I have checked the battery earlier and the alternator all fine) and I had to bring the sub-woofer levels almost back to 2.
5. I drove till lonavala yesterday and the base for sub woofer levels from HU I had to change frequently between 2-6.

My Question:

1. Is it that the HU has some issue as we have not checked that until now (though it is one month old) and been checking the settings on the amp.
2. Can there be an issue with the sub-woofer port from the HU.
3. Can there be an issue with the USD wire that is coming from the HU.

I dont know, I observed this yest so I am thinking.

At the same time my installer in Delhi told me I should have gone for Pioneer 4150 as it is much better than Kenwood and infact it is cheaper or almost same price.

What should I do now? SHall I change my HU to pioneer even if I loose couple of thousands

Thanks
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Old 25th January 2010, 13:31   #9923
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Default Need help!!

Hi to all the audio gurus.I would like to upgrade my audio setup in my honda city.I am coming to india next month.Right now i have a JVC touchscreen music system,a 4 channel amplifier,pioneer 1200watt woofer,and 4 speakers(Simple ones).I would like to upgrade to better speaker,an additional woofer,and an additional amp.But my questions are-
Q1-Should i get a new different box build up with different wiring set up of amp+Woofer.Or i should go for big one box with 2 woofers in the big box?
Q2-Should i go for 4 channel amp or a 2 channel is good enough?
Q3-even if i have a good set up but most of my bass gets dissolved cause of the woofer being in trunk while i like to feel bass inside.How can i install it in the rear seat tray?
Q4-Is this a rumour that if i get it installed in the rear seat tray this will affect the trunk opening and closing as it is hooked up to the metal tray?
On an all i really want to have my woofer at my rear tray instead of trunk.But at the same time i dont want to poke my nose on the company mechanical set up.Any advices?
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Old 25th January 2010, 16:17   #9924
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Originally Posted by The Saint View Post
What should I do now? SHall I change my HU to pioneer even if I loose couple of thousands
Dont jump the gun.

If it is determined that your HU is indeed the culprit then you change it.

Can your installer lend you a HU?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Car-e-ok View Post
Q1-Should i get a new different box build up with different wiring set up of amp+Woofer.Or i should go for big one box with 2 woofers in the big box?
Q2-Should i go for 4 channel amp or a 2 channel is good enough?
Q3-even if i have a good set up but most of my bass gets dissolved cause of the woofer being in trunk while i like to feel bass inside.How can i install it in the rear seat tray?
Q4-Is this a rumour that if i get it installed in the rear seat tray this will affect the trunk opening and closing as it is hooked up to the metal tray?
On an all i really want to have my woofer at my rear tray instead of trunk.But at the same time i dont want to poke my nose on the company mechanical set up.Any advices?
1. What car?
2. What woofer?
3. What amp?

Please give us some details. Thanks.

Last edited by navin : 25th January 2010 at 16:27.
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Old 25th January 2010, 16:40   #9925
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
Dont jump the gun.

If it is determined that your HU is indeed the culprit then you change it.

Can your installer lend you a HU?



1. What car?
2. What woofer?
3. What amp?

Please give us some details. Thanks.
I am not sure, though I have my original HU which comes with the car.

- Car- Honda Civic
- Mono block amp for the sub-woofer- 1000/1 recommended by JL audio for W 7.
-Sub-woofer- JL Audio 12" W7
- 4 components- JL audio (don't remember the model number)
-Blaupunkt 4 channel amplifier for the speakers.

But do you think HU can be an issue here with whatever I mentioned in my last quote? is pioneer 4150 better (just for my info). The idea is to rule out things one by one, though last night after this observation think it is the HU, that is the reason i am asking (i could be wrong).

Jl Audio amp 1000/1 pic below:

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Old 25th January 2010, 16:50   #9926
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
Dont jump the gun.

If it is determined that your HU is indeed the culprit then you change it.

Can your installer lend you a HU?



1. What car?
2. What woofer?
3. What amp?

Please give us some details. Thanks.
The car is Honda City i-dsi
The woofer is Pioneer 12 inch dual voice coil design(Sorry dont know the exact model no. as i am not in home)
The amp is Alpine 4 channel .I think model No F405.
The Head Unit is JVC Touchscreen KW-AVX720
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Old 25th January 2010, 19:33   #9927
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Default Feedback On MP57

The Blau HamburgMP57 is available for 5.8K w/o bill.

Is it a good choice of HU or would you recommend any other USB HU in the same range

Will this plus GTO608c(front) and GT5-S265(rear) make a good combo in a Ritz?



Users and experts' views on the MP57
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Old 27th January 2010, 09:55   #9928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by The Saint View Post
- Car- Honda Civic
- Mono block amp for the sub-woofer- 1000/1 recommended by JL audio for W 7.
-Sub-woofer- JL Audio 12" W7
- 4 components- JL audio (don't remember the model number)
-Blaupunkt 4 channel amplifier for the speakers.

But do you think HU can be an issue here with whatever I mentioned in my last quote? is pioneer 4150 better (just for my info). The idea is to rule out things one by one, though last night after this observation think it is the HU, that is the reason i am asking (i could be wrong).
1. Is the Civic HU feeding the amp via a speaker-level to line level adpater? if so change the adapter and see if this fixes things.

2. I have rarely seen a modern amp inputs drift like what you are experiencing. This leads me to believe that the fault might be with the OEM HU.

3. Yes the 4150 or almost just any 3rd party HU from Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood etc.. will be better than most OEM HUs.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Car-e-ok View Post
The car is Honda City i-dsi
The woofer is Pioneer 12 inch dual voice coil design(Sorry dont know the exact model no. as i am not in home)
The amp is Alpine 4 channel .I think model No F405.
The Head Unit is JVC Touchscreen KW-AVX720
Pioneer's DVC will need al 4 channels of the Alpine amp. bridge alpine to 2 channels and use each bridged channel to drive one voice coil.

Pioneer maeks subwoofers for Free Air and Sealed boxes. The model number will give you a clue if the suffix is an F then it is free air, if the suffix is a C then it is closed (sealed) box.
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Old 27th January 2010, 12:32   #9929
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
1. Is the Civic HU feeding the amp via a speaker-level to line level adpater? if so change the adapter and see if this fixes things.

2. I have rarely seen a modern amp inputs drift like what you are experiencing. This leads me to believe that the fault might be with the OEM HU.

3. Yes the 4150 or almost just any 3rd party HU from Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood etc.. will be better than most OEM HUs.



Pioneer's DVC will need al 4 channels of the Alpine amp. bridge alpine to 2 channels and use each bridged channel to drive one voice coil.

Pioneer maeks subwoofers for Free Air and Sealed boxes. The model number will give you a clue if the suffix is an F then it is free air, if the suffix is a C then it is closed (sealed) box.
Thanks Navin for the advice buddy,But i am still willing to know how to mount the subwoofer on to the rack of the honda city.Now the bos is in truck.The rack is a metal tray.Shou i cut it up?Or should i get rid of it and make the whole box of that size.I dont knw.
Cause i dont get to feel bass much and rattling of trunk adds to another hiccup.I am so willing to go for another subwoofer and amp But until i get this problem sorted out about how to mount it on the rack at rear rather then to make a box and keep it in trunk.
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Old 27th January 2010, 14:02   #9930
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
1. Is the Civic HU feeding the amp via a speaker-level to line level adpater? if so change the adapter and see if this fixes things.

2. I have rarely seen a modern amp inputs drift like what you are experiencing. This leads me to believe that the fault might be with the OEM HU.

3. Yes the 4150 or almost just any 3rd party HU from Pioneer, Alpine, Kenwood etc.. will be better than most OEM HUs.



Pioneer's DVC will need al 4 channels of the Alpine amp. bridge alpine to 2 channels and use each bridged channel to drive one voice coil.

Pioneer maeks subwoofers for Free Air and Sealed boxes. The model number will give you a clue if the suffix is an F then it is free air, if the suffix is a C then it is closed (sealed) box.
Right now I am using Kenwood DDx 7039, want to know if the problems I have mentioned until now could be due to a faulty Kenwood HU.

Is Pioneer 4150 superior than Kenwood DDX 7039?

Thanks
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