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Old 27th January 2010, 16:19   #9931
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Originally Posted by The Saint View Post
Is Pioneer 4150 superior than Kenwood DDX 7039?
Dont know; have not heard either. Sorry.
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Old 30th January 2010, 18:25   #9932
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Default ICE for i20

Hi Gurus,

I'm planning for some ICE upgrade in my i20 precisely a sub and a amp,stock HU remains same.Budget is 10-12K
i20 comes with components in front & coax in rear.

I went to Poona Motors and he has suggested following with B&W:

JBL 12" Sub woofer - JBL GT5-1204BR--9K
4 ch amplifier - JBL GT5-S644--4.5K
Wiring--1.5K

Is this pricing ok?
I will take a demo sometime in next weekday,they are extremely busy on weekends and not very keen unless you pay something upfront.

One thing I noticed while reading through different threads is everyone first changes the front speakers?
I already have comps in front and they sound pretty good with low Bass ,should I change the stock rear coax ? what if I dont change them ?
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Old 1st February 2010, 13:38   #9933
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Default ICE for i20

Hi,

Can someone ans this :

Quote:
Originally Posted by kratos11 View Post
Hi Gurus,

I'm planning for some ICE upgrade in my i20 precisely a sub and a amp,stock HU remains same.Budget is 10-12K
i20 comes with components in front & coax in rear.

I went to Poona Motors and he has suggested following with B&W:

JBL 12" Sub woofer - JBL GT5-1204BR--9K
4 ch amplifier - JBL GT5-S644--4.5K
Wiring--1.5K

Is this pricing ok?
I will take a demo sometime in next weekday,they are extremely busy on weekends and not very keen unless you pay something upfront.

One thing I noticed while reading through different threads is everyone first changes the front speakers?
I already have comps in front and they sound pretty good with low Bass ,should I change the stock rear coax ? what if I dont change them ?
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Old 1st February 2010, 16:05   #9934
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The prices seem to be OK. Please note that the JBL GT5-1204BR is a finished box with the subwoofer built in.

If you are happy with the sound in front, you need not change. Putting them on the amp will only make them sound better. However, if you audition other brands / models, you might be able to judge the difference - you will definitely find some of those definitely better than the stock components.

If your passengers don't complain about the quality of sound at the back, you need not change the rears either.
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Old 3rd February 2010, 00:01   #9935
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Thanks for the response DerAlte but I have some budget constraints now

My budget is slashed to 10K strictly including wiring,sub & amp.
Almost final with JBL GT5-S644--4.5K
What are the other options in sub ?
I went through JBL site and saw 8" subs like JBL GTO 804 (price unknown).Some similar ones which would costs around 4-5K & would give sufficient thump?
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Old 3rd February 2010, 09:51   #9936
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1. If you want an 8" sub (please don't expect great things out of an 8") there is a Polk 8" box that can fit under the front seat. I haven't seen the JBL 8" in India

2. An alternative to the 1204BR is to buy the 1204 sub only and put it in a box that you can get built. Will save you some money

3. There are other 12" subs like Bull, Kicker, Alpine, Pioneer etc. which will cost you around the same as the JBL sub (sub only, not boxed). Ask around in the shops

4. There are a few good 10" subs, like Infinity, Ground Zero etc., but not being popular their availability is suspect in India
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Old 3rd February 2010, 22:24   #9937
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Default technical clarifications ...

@ All
I have a few technical clarifications (some of them might be very dumb/basic) ...

1. The DLS RA 50 has the following specs ...
Output power @ 4 ohm - 4 x 70 W RMS
Output power @ 2 ohm - 4 x 110 W RMS
Mono bridge mode @ 4 ohm - 2 x 220 W RMS
Mono sub channel @ 4 ohm - 1 x 265 W RMS
Mono sub channel @ 2 ohm - 1 x 365 W RMS

Will it be possible to run the front 2 ch's & the mono for sub on 2 ohms load and rear 2 ch's on 4 ohms load simultaneously ? Would it harm the amplifier ?

2. The DLS UP6i is rated 150 RMS @ 4ohm. Can I connect this speaker to the DLS RA50 running on 2 ohm load (i.e. 110 RMS/ch) ? Or will it blow either the speaker / amplifier ? In general can a 2 ohm load signal be fed to a 4 ohm speaker and vice versa ?

3. Why is it always suggested to have a good set of comps for the front, coaxials for rear & a sub but power only the front comps and Sub with a good 4ch amp ?

4. Why cant we have have the same kind of comps for both front & rear & a sub and power them all with suitable amplifier / amplifiers ?

Thanks.

PS: These Q's are also posted on the "Suggestions for $1000 setup" thread too.
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Old 4th February 2010, 11:37   #9938
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donarun View Post
Will it be possible to run the front 2 ch's & the mono for sub on 2 ohms load and rear 2 ch's on 4 ohms load simultaneously ? Would it harm the amplifier ?

2. The DLS UP6i is rated 150 RMS @ 4ohm.

3. Why is it always suggested to have a good set of comps for the front, coaxials for rear & a sub but power only the front comps and Sub with a good 4ch amp ?

4. Why cant we have have the same kind of comps for both front & rear & a sub and power them all with suitable amplifier / amplifiers ?
1. I assume whaty are trying to say is this.
a. Front components across bridged terminals of stereo channels.
b. Subwoofer across subwoofer chaqnnel
c. Rear speakers across stereo terminals of 2 of the 4 stereo channels

Do not do this, You will blow the amp.

Connect the front components and rear speakers across the stereo terminals only. If the front components are of lower impedance (than 4 ohms) they will draw more power (in the form of current) from the amp.

2. Yes the DLS UP6 can be used with the RA50. It is a 4 ohm speaker. Hence the amp will be driven to 110W but to 70W. It has a sensitivity of 88db/1W/1m. At 10W this is 98db which is quite loud. At 40W this is 104db, prolonged exposure at these levels can lead to hearling loss.

3. Money. If you do not sit in the rear why waste mnney of good rear components. Besides For the rear passengers to have a good sound stage they rear speakers need to be in the rear doors but when components are installed in the rear doors the tweeters are vey close to the front passenger's ears messing up the front passsenger's soundstage. Large sedans like the Skoda Superb, VW Passat, etc..have some room between the front passenger's ears and the rear tweeters but smaller cars do not.

4. Of course you can. If symetry is what you are after.

Last edited by navin : 4th February 2010 at 11:42.
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Old 4th February 2010, 12:35   #9939
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My comments are highlighted below ...

Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
1. I assume whaty are trying to say is this.
a. Front components across bridged terminals of stereo channels.
b. Subwoofer across subwoofer chaqnnel
c. Rear speakers across stereo terminals of 2 of the 4 stereo channels

Do not do this, You will blow the amp.
@arun - , Thanks for warning me, will deffo not try this.

Connect the front components and rear speakers across the stereo terminals only. If the front components are of lower impedance (than 4 ohms) they will draw more power (in the form of current) from the amp.

2. Yes the DLS UP6 can be used with the RA50. It is a 4 ohm speaker. Hence the amp will be driven to 110W but to 70W. It has a sensitivity of 88db/1W/1m. At 10W this is 98db which is quite loud. At 40W this is 104db, prolonged exposure at these levels can lead to hearling loss.
@arun - I quite dont understand it ... are u saying that the 70 W RMS @ 4 ohms from the DLA RA50 is quite sufficient to drive the DLS UP6i which is rated 150 W RMS @ 4 ohms ?
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Old 4th February 2010, 12:39   #9940
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Quote:
Originally Posted by donarun View Post
My comments are highlighted below ...
Yes the DLS 6UP are sensitive speakers. Maybe they can absorb 150W (thermal ratings are something I consider sacred) but they will do well with 70W too.
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Old 4th February 2010, 14:26   #9941
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Gurus, I need some immediate help.

I am having some relative coming from Singapore in the next few days
and planning to request him to get some car audio stuff for me.

I currently have JVC AVX44 in my car and planning to upgrade.

I can either go for a better HU or add the RF 3Sixty.2 or Alpine H650.

I dont know if the AVX44 + (RF3Sixty.2 or H650) would result in a better
sound than a new HU (such as Kenwood X9006U (X991) or Kenwood XBT8013U (X993).

My budget is around 20k.

I dont know if RF3Sixty.2 or H650 is available in Singapore and within the
20K budget.

I know the XBT8013U is available. Dont know if X9006U is available though.
He is going to check and get back to me by Saturday.

Anyways please let me know if
AVX44 + (3Sixty.2 or H650) would sound better than X9006U or XBT8013U.

Also between X9006U and XBT8013U which is better?.

If there are any better options in that price range which can be brought
from Singapore, please let me know.

The car in question is Getz.
The other components in the car are:
Focal Access 165 A1 components at front
DLS classic 960 co-axials at rear
Focal Solid.4 powering the front and rear speakers
Polk Momo DVC 12 sub powered by Focal Solid.1 mono.
All doors and boot are damped.

Thank you for your time.
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Old 4th February 2010, 16:49   #9942
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Quote:
Originally Posted by drvhplyevraftr View Post
I can either go for a better HU or add the RF 3Sixty.2 or Alpine H650.
Kenwood X9006U (X991) or Kenwood XBT8013U (X993). I know the XBT8013U is available. Dont know if X9006U is available though.

Also between X9006U and XBT8013U which is better?.

If there are any better options in that price range which can be brought
from Singapore, please let me know.
Garbage in makes garbage out. Processors like the 650/360.2 etc make sense only if you are retaining the OEM system. If you get a good HU you do not need the 650/360.2.

I have not heard teh X993 or X991 so I am not going to comment on these 2 HUs but the Alpine 7998 sound nicer than the 650 or 360.2 and I assume the 2 Kenny HUs will do too. Other options are the Alpine CDA105 or the Pioneer 8100.
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Old 4th February 2010, 19:01   #9943
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Thank you Navin. How about the Pioneer DEH-P9850BT?.

I am not sure if it supports USB via any optional USB adapter. It is a discontinued model but the specifications are good.

Pioneer is very confusing with their model numbers (so may be others as well).

I see a DEH-P980BT, DEH-P9800BT, DEH-P9850BT. All look alike. May be they are the same catered to different markets. Search on the numbers do not clearly indicate if DEH-P9850BT supports USB or not (even via optional adapter). Pioneer Australia shows DEH-P9850BT supports USB and IPOD via optional adapter but other sites for the same DEH-P9850BT do not show USB as supported but IPOD as supported.
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Old 5th February 2010, 01:02   #9944
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i am going to replace my old 6*9 with new one .i want to go for jbl gto 947 or infinity 9633.will they run from the hu or will i need an amp . i have a pioneer hu with 50w for 4 speakers.
and if an amp is necessary which one i can go for under 10k
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Old 5th February 2010, 09:58   #9945
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6x9 sound good by hu directly. no need amp generally. u choose proven tag jbl947 (try 937 also), infi 9633. Db690polk is sure to add in your audition list.
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