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Old 9th April 2011, 10:34   #10816
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

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He told the placement of the tweeters is not right (I have it currently where the A pillar meets the Dash Board). He said that it'll be better if i move it on the door pad next to the speakers on the door. With damping on the front door, i think it will sound a little better.
With dampening the overall sound quality should be better, yes.

As for the placement, you can try different placements and go with the one that suits your ears. But if I may recommend, you should try to audition the setup by placing the tweets in the criss-cross pattern also - passenger-side tweeter aimed at the driver-side headrest and driver-side tweeter aimed at the passenger-side headrest.

I had tried about 4-5 different angles when finalizing the placement of the tweeters however it was only the criss-cross pattern that gave me the right amount of high-frequency sounds without making the setup bright. (Of course there's Treble adjustment at bay always). Why this pattern also made most sense to me was because the setup didn't really sound clean until the tweeters weren't placed this way. At all other angles it was either getting too bright or high-frequencies missing a little too much.

Again, try different placements, it would only take some double-tape.
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Old 11th April 2011, 12:00   #10817
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

Mods - I could not find any post which resembled my requirements and hence I am posting my query.


1. Your Car: Maruti Suzuki Ritz VXI

2. Your current setup (If any): None

3. Your Budget: 12k -15k

4. Do you drive most of the time or is it chauffer driven? I drive the car myself

5. Your Music preferences (Genres, favorite artists, etc.): I like rock, pop, hindi movie songs, ghazals (depending on my mood). I like my music to have clarity but like a bit of bass too.

Additional Information:

6. Are you ready to sacrifice your boot space/modify door panels? : Would not want to really tamper with the car, it being brand new

I am interested in buying a HU and front and rear speakers now and may be add AMP and subwoofer later. Can also leave the rear speakers for now and add later if budget does not permit.

After reading through various posts found that my requirements would be a HU with 3RCA, front usb, front aux in and may be bluetooth. Does any HU from pioneer have all these. Otherwise please suggest some other brand.

For speakers it seems JBL would be the ideal choice. Should I get JBL components for front (please remember I do not want to tamper with any panels or speaker slots) or would normal JBL speakers suffice? Some people told me that since Ritz is small car it would not really need components.

I hope someone can suggest a good setup within my budget ( it being pretty limited)
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Old 11th April 2011, 19:20   #10818
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

^^ You can look at 6390SD from Pioneer. If interested in any other brand, then for the budget, you can also look at JVC. They have a model R826BT, but it will be about 2K costlier than the Pioneer model & the only additional feature it has is the bluetooth capability & dual USB.

I am also in a dilemna & so when you get to listen to either of these, do share the experience with me as well.
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Old 11th April 2011, 20:53   #10819
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

Quote:
Originally Posted by fine69 View Post
With dampening the overall sound quality should be better, yes.

As for the placement, you can try different placements and go with the one that suits your ears. But if I may recommend, you should try to audition the setup by placing the tweets in the criss-cross pattern also - passenger-side tweeter aimed at the driver-side headrest and driver-side tweeter aimed at the passenger-side headrest.

I had tried about 4-5 different angles when finalizing the placement of the tweeters however it was only the criss-cross pattern that gave me the right amount of high-frequency sounds without making the setup bright. (Of course there's Treble adjustment at bay always). Why this pattern also made most sense to me was because the setup didn't really sound clean until the tweeters weren't placed this way. At all other angles it was either getting too bright or high-frequencies missing a little too much.

Again, try different placements, it would only take some double-tape.
@Fine69. Thanks for the suggestion. Will surely try out placing it in different places and the cris-cross too. The prob is, When i initially got the setup, i had put the double side stickers. But it kept falling off, so drilled a small hole and installed it. Now, if i place it anywhere else, it will leave those holes uncovered. (Guess i can get a pair of good stickers and cover it up).
BTW, The entire setup is sounding really good. Never expected a Sub and HU to make so much difference. Its sounds completely different now
I have just one grose though. The pioneer 4390 player has 4 arrow keys. Up/down and Right/left. Just like any other player . The Up/down to move between folders and the right/left for tracks. Works the same way.
But the mapping in FM mode is not right. I mean, if you go by what they have mapped USB mode for, The right/left should be for changing between stored FM channels and the Up/Down should have been for tuning. But its the other way round. The up/down is for changing channels and right/left for searching for channels (tuning).

What this has done is, In USB mode, i use the steering controls and works perfectly fine. (Steering controls on i20 has only option to change tracks and not folders and i am fine with that). This is the right/left button i was talking about in USB mode.
In FM mode, when i press this button for changing stored channels, it goes into Tune mode and not saved channel mode since the right/left is mapped for tuning and not changing between stored channels
But one saving grace though, Its fun to actually use the touch screen panel to change channels with the list already there.

Last edited by Kimified : 11th April 2011 at 21:13.
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Old 12th April 2011, 11:54   #10820
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

Thanks Navin ! got the GT5-S936 installed in the MDF box at the rear and the sound quality is better but not as per my expectation.i went with these bcoz my car accessory guy told that these are the highest i can go for without an amp. ......... is it correct ?I think the spoil sport is the stock / factory fitted speakers in front doors or could it be bcoz of the Blaupunkt HU ? pls provide inputs.I am considering to replace the front speakers with Components.625C or 626C ....... which one according to you ? (i DO NOT have an amp installed).or any other pairs for front you may suggestCheers.
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Old 12th April 2011, 13:21   #10821
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

@namit, ask the installer to show you how they sound on a parcel shelf, instead of the the MDF boxes. Perhaps you may like how they sound without the boxes.

The installer's explanation was a simple attempt at convincing you. He cannot think beyond what he has heard others say, not based on technical limitations.
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Old 12th April 2011, 18:24   #10822
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

Amps basically deliver more power to speakers that demand it.

Bigger speakers (contrary to popular myth) do not necessarily need higher power. If anything, within the same line of products the bigger units will be more sensitive (louder) than small ones, at least if the designer is somewhat sane.

And you can drive any speaker off any amplifier. The sound quality is dependent on the capabilities of the driving electronics (even a basic head unit has an amp of some kind built in) and the acoustic environment it is played in. These principles are essentially solid.

Think of a light controlled by a dimmer switch. The mains is the power supply (battery), the dimmer is the control element (amplifier) and the lightbulb is the transducer. The amplifier+power supply essentially should act as an infinite source of energy, kept in check by the control input (volume).

The brightness of the light (sound output) is dependent on the ability of the amplifier to faithfully modulate the power supply based on the input signal, and the capability of the power supply itself. This example does not necessarily account for fidelity (quality) but that's a totally separate discussion.

In the end you will be limited by the weakest link in the chain, but unless you are listen at ear-bending volumes (which a good system does not need to do in order to satisfy a listener), or have a terrible head-unit, the speakers are going to be by far the weakest link of all.
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Old 13th April 2011, 10:32   #10823
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

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the speakers are going to be by far the weakest link of all.
Because they convert electrical energy to mechanical energy. Whenever you are converting energy from one form to another you have losses and distortion. This is what 99.9% of speakers do.
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Old 13th April 2011, 14:48   #10824
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

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Thanks DerAlte, Its costing me $410+ all inclusive, I am worried about the service and the quality as the source is from China
hey sameerpb, have you received ur witson hu, wat speakers are you going to latch on to it, do share. Can the witson hu, handle 6.5" components, so do you need an amp?
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Old 14th April 2011, 12:41   #10825
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

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... Can the witson hu, handle 6.5" components, so do you need an amp?
* Size of a component has nothing to do with power needed to drive them
* An external amp is required for completely different reason - they have a much higher dynamic range and bring out more of the music content than the built-in amp of the HU can
* The built-in amp of the HU can also play sufficiently loud, but will clip (distort) at a lower loudness than an external amp would
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Old 16th April 2011, 00:40   #10826
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

for SPL setup what is the ideal combination of amps?
2ch+ monoblock OR
4ch+ monoblock
note-i use my car as a two seater and nobody is going to seat at rear.
kindly advise..
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Old 17th April 2011, 13:02   #10827
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HI sir,
i have CDT HD 62 components:
There specification:
HD-62 2-way component set

Technical specs and contents:
  • 1 pr HD-6 6.5 cast mid woofer
  • 1 pr EX-484 24dB Elliptic 2-way crossover
  • 1 pr DRT-25 1 silk tweeter
  • Power handling: 180 watt RMS @ HPF 120Hz.
  • Frequency response: 55Hz-20.000Hz.
  • Impedance: 4 Ohm
  • Sensitivity:92.6dB
  • Mounting depth 6.5 woofer 2 3/4
  • Flush and surface tweeter housings
my confusion is will this whole component set will handle 90*2=180 rms or it is 180*2=360 rms!!
means will this set will handle 180 rms or 360 rms at 120 hpf?
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Old 17th April 2011, 16:21   #10828
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

A 6.5" woofer crossed over at 120Hz and with a 2" - 3" coil should easily take about 100watts if the excursion capability is sufficient.

At that power level there will be serious risk of hearing damage.

Not sure what the 180W refers to, but normally it indicates the power handling per channel. So yes, if the spec is not a lie (which I think it is) it should be fine.

We also don't know where the tweeter is crossed over. A power level that high indicates a very high crossover point, which is not good for sound quality.
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Old 17th April 2011, 16:55   #10829
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Tweeters are crossed on 0db know(On Crossovers).but my head unit doesnt have more tunning option(pioneer 3190).What max power will it take at 80 hz?So that it will be good for me to decide new amplifier!
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Old 17th April 2011, 19:51   #10830
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In a small cabin of a car, more than 30W (clean power) is overkill.

I run 85dB/w speakers in a 10x25x10 room. At full tilt my 40W/ch amp is good enough to properly fill the room.

Out of interest, an amp running off a 12V car battery supply can not deliver more than 25W, come what may. This is why most 'amplifiers' come with a built in supply that converts the battery supply into a higher voltage.

What is the crossover frequency? It will be a specification in Hz or KHz, not dB. dB is probably the switch position for attenuation. The Crossover point will be specified on the box.

Don't worry about the power handling capability of a speaker. It's not a relevant number. What matters are the excursion capability and the sensitivity. A speaker with higher sensitivity will need less power to reach a given volume. A user will know when the system is getting stressed out and the fix is to reduce the volume.

There's very, very little difference in actual acoustic output between a 50W/ and 200W/channel amplifier with the same speaker. A speaker with 93dB sensitivity with 50W = 88dB speaker with 200W. Don't get hung up on power, it's not as relevant as you think.
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