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Old 23rd March 2014, 00:24   #12481
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

My 2006 Civic did not come with an aux-input. The experts added support by connecting
a mp3 aux cable which comes from the back of the HU. All I have to do is plug the cable
into my device to play music. However, this arrangement is cumbersome as after a few
months, the cable gets damaged and the only way out is to change it, by cutting and
joining the wires.
Is there a solution wherein we can have a proper aux port fitted somewhere, thereby all
we need is to keep.replacing the aux cables, eliminating the need to join wires etc?
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Old 23rd March 2014, 07:27   #12482
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolkurt View Post
Is there a solution wherein we can have a proper aux port fitted somewhere, thereby all

we need is to keep.replacing the aux cables, eliminating the need to join wires etc?

Surely this can be done. Question is why would you want to damage the stock interior look of the car. If you install a EP (mini headphone jack) you would have to drill a whole somewhere.

Oh and BTW i hope you realise that the car cannot charge your mobile device via this "AUX" port.
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Old 24th March 2014, 12:06   #12483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by coolkurt View Post
... Is there a solution wherein we can have a proper aux port fitted somewhere ...
Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
... you would have to drill a whole somewhere. ...
Usually this was done using one of the dummy plates near the buttons - not sure if there is any in the Civic. You can find pics in the DIY section and Sound off and Show off section - of how people have done it. All you need is an Aux-in cable, with one plug chopped off and replaced by a 3.5mm jack socket.

If there is no such dummy plate that you can use, use the (inside) side of the glove compartment to mount the socket. Plug another Aux-in cable into this socket, and leave it in the glove compartment. When needed, take out just the free end of the cable and connect your phone or MP3 player to it.
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Old 24th March 2014, 18:41   #12484
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

I Need Help.
Reason why i am in this situation.Recently I upgraded ICE of CRUZ (except HU)
1)Front - Rockford Fosgate comp
2)Rear – Focal
3)4 Channel Amp – powering all speakers
4)2 channel Amp – powering Sub.
5)JBL GTO sub.
6)They did install/connect some converter into HU while installing Amps.


Now the issue.
1)Attacked by Humming sound something similar to what radio produces while tuning stations. It's audible whenever I press brakes,. What I think sound coming from HU. I went back to installer and he suggested that HU is not taking the load. Even if i switched off or mute the HU sound keeps coming .
2)While accelerate a humming sound.
3)Sub – it’s an old SUB ( taken from my old car)while thumping it also produces a sound like some metal pieces are dancing on the tune.

Till now we checked with changing the earth position but no improvement.

Now I need help as to why is this issue and how we can improve the situation.

Last edited by aditya@pune : 24th March 2014 at 18:42. Reason: Added more details.
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Old 25th March 2014, 12:08   #12485
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aditya@pune View Post
... Attacked by Humming sound something similar to what radio produces while tuning stations. ... While accelerate a humming sound. ...
Hissing. Change the LOC (Line Output Converter or Hi-Lo Converter) and / or the RCA cables that are connecting the Converter to the amps.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aditya@pune View Post
... 3)Sub its an old SUB ( taken from my old car)while thumping it also produces a sound like some metal pieces are dancing on the tune. ...
That is difficult to understand. Usually there is some metallic accompaniment to the beats (triangle, cymbals, high hat etc.) but I have a feeling that is not what you are referring to. Can you record it and post the recording here?

Would be definitely something loose somewhere, either in the sub box or around the box in the boot, possibly a loose cable rattling against metal. Damping is the only cure - in this case just some tightly rolled CC foam and cotton waste in the boot lid / hatch.
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Old 27th March 2014, 10:45   #12486
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Hi everyone
my mission to upgrade ice for my swift has begun.
due to less cash in hand i am doing it step by step.

1st installment - Amp

1.Infinity - Kappa One 800 Watt Class-D Mono Subwoofer Amplifier [ 500W RMS x 1, at 4 ohms <1% THD + N, 800W RMS x 1, at 2ohms <1% THD + N, 1 Ohm, stable]
(Rs. 11.5 K)

2.JBL - GTO 804EZ - 4 Channel Amplifier (940 W) [100W RMS x 4 channels at 2 ohms}
(Rs. 9.7K)
Both on their Way (kindly comment about the amp. are they good for the price?)

will upload pics as soon as i will receive them.

i just wanted to know, the wiring for both the sub will be different? i.e. 4 gauge/8 gauge or same?
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Old 27th March 2014, 10:55   #12487
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Quote:
Originally Posted by aditya@pune View Post
I Need Help.

Now the issue.
1)Attacked by Humming sound
This article helped me a lot to eliminate noise from my system.
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Old 31st March 2014, 20:14   #12488
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
I think you have answered your own question. The kenwood at under 5K is the most VFM of this bunch at these prices. That said I have seen the 646 sold at 6K so maybe you should check prices from 2 vendors.

All 4 amps are in the 50-70w rms/ch range and I dont think any one will offer significantly more power than the others hence the kenwood 846 (or which amp you can get cheapest of this lot) is your best bet.
Thanks sir for your inputs. I am now considering JBL GTO - 804EZ as getting an amp is a one time thing and low power amps may restrict future upgrades.

Need to confirm some doubts -

1. The features of this amp shows that there is no need for any external Loc for the installation. (Manual says that the input circuit is designed to accept any analog audio signal from 50 mV to 15 V, no third-party high-to-low-level adapters are necessary) The current HU in question is my stock i20 HU.
2. The installer says that it is a digitally processed amplifier and gives out much cleaner output than competition (Is that just a marketing gimmick or there is really a difference in quality of output from other amps like kac m846 or Blaupunkt GTA 470 or x646)
3. The shopkeeper claims that snapdeal products are usually duplicate that is why they are priced so low. How can this be verified?
4. Will this amplifier compliment the JBL 1215B (Already purchased)
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Old 1st April 2014, 10:21   #12489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sudeep.pandya View Post
1. The features of this amp shows that there is no need for any external Loc for the installation. (Manual says that the input circuit is designed to accept any analog audio signal from 50 mV to 15 V, no third-party high-to-low-level adapters are necessary) The current HU in question is my stock i20 HU.
2. The installer says that it is a digitally processed amplifier and gives out much cleaner output than competition (Is that just a marketing gimmick or there is really a difference in quality of output from other amps like kac m846 or Blaupunkt GTA 470 or x646)
3. The shopkeeper claims that snapdeal products are usually duplicate that is why they are priced so low. How can this be verified?
4. Will this amplifier compliment the JBL 1215B (Already purchased)
1. Yes but I prefer using a LOC and low level inputs to using high level inputs. The later requires you to be very careful about the wiring from HU to amp.

2. Total marketing.

3. I cant help here. I dont know where snapdeal sources it's products from but check for a valid serial number.

4. Most of these mid ranged 4 ch amps will drive a simple subwoofer like the 1215. Sure, a monoblock will drive the sub better but it is a different price range and a different product. So dont worry just go ahead.
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Old 1st April 2014, 23:32   #12490
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[QUOTE

2. Total marketing.


4. Most of these mid ranged 4 ch amps will drive a simple subwoofer like the 1215. Sure, a monoblock will drive the sub better but it is a different price range and a different product. So dont worry just go ahead.[/quote]

Sir ji I am confused now. Do you mean its better to opt for an entry level amp like m846 as it costs almost half the GTO series. If there is not much difference in sound quality I would prefer saving some bucks What do you suggest? I cant hear someone commenting in future that i have an impotent amp:-)
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Old 2nd April 2014, 04:28   #12491
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Hey Guys,
I have a set of Focal Performance 165 V15 Coaxials as the front speakers, but one [right] of my tweeters just died on me. I connected another speaker to the connections [on the tweeter] and that one worked, but the tweeter is dead.

1> Can i get the tweeter fixed and if so where will i be able to go to get a good job done?
2> Can i get a replacement tweeter only?
3> Can i get another tweeter + Cross over combo for the speakers?
4> Is there anything else I can do?

I've been told [by different people]
1> Need to buy a new set of speakers [mid range + tweeter]
2> Can go to Lamington Road to get it reconed/rewired
3> Should avoid getting it fixed and look for a replacement one as the quality will not be as good and the tweeter will fail soon after fixing.

Thanks in advance

Last edited by Sprucegoose : 2nd April 2014 at 04:32.
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Old 2nd April 2014, 10:14   #12492
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q

Quote:
Originally Posted by sudeep.pandya View Post
Sir ji I am confused now. Do you mean its better to opt for an entry level amp like m846 as it costs almost half the GTO series. If there is not much difference in sound quality I would prefer saving some bucks What do you suggest? I cant hear someone commenting in future that i have an impotent amp:-)
If you read my post...I was refering to their ability to drive a subwoofer. UYes most of the mid priced 50-60W amps (price range 6-10K) will drive a subwoofer like the 1215 equally well. Where the better amp might differ is in the midrange and high frequency detail. Since you are using the same amp for both (2 channels for subwoofer and 2 channels for mid and highs) you may want to pay attention to the mids and highs and choose the one you like best.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sprucegoose View Post

one [right] of my tweeters just died on me...I connected another speaker to the connections [on the tweeter] and that one worked, but the tweeter is dead.

1> Can i get the tweeter fixed and if so where will i be able to go to get a good job done?
2> Can i get a replacement tweeter only?
3> Can i get another tweeter + Cross over combo for the speakers?
4> Is there anything else I can do?

I've been told [by different people]
1> Need to buy a new set of speakers [mid range + tweeter]
2> Can go to Lamington Road to get it reconed/rewired
3> Should avoid getting it fixed and look for a replacement one as the quality will not be as good and the tweeter will fail soon after fixing.

Thanks in advance
1. If the tinsel lead wire of the tweeter has gotten disconnected it is a pretty easy if careful repair. You have to be careful about 2 things, when prying open the tweeter, the suspension of the tweeter can get damaged. Also when soldering the tinsel lead back on you may damage the voice coil so use a low Watt soldering iron.

2. A repacelemt tweeter may be got from Focal's dealer if they even sell these tweeters singly. Usually they are sold in pairs or as parts of a component system.

3. A tweeter from another manufacturer will most likely NOT match correctly with your current woofers. The crossover frequency and tweeter levels will be different.

4. I would first try to understand why the tweeter failed. If you get another speaker component system and there are problems in the wiring or amplifier of the exisiting audio set up future speaker systems will also fail. So first figure out why it failed, rectify that, and then look at an alternate speaker system.
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Old 2nd April 2014, 13:47   #12493
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post

1. If the tinsel lead wire of the tweeter has gotten disconnected it is a pretty easy if careful repair. You have to be careful about 2 things, when prying open the tweeter, the suspension of the tweeter can get damaged. Also when soldering the tinsel lead back on you may damage the voice coil so use a low Watt soldering iron.

2. A repacelemt tweeter may be got from Focal's dealer if they even sell these tweeters singly. Usually they are sold in pairs or as parts of a component system.

3. A tweeter from another manufacturer will most likely NOT match correctly with your current woofers. The crossover frequency and tweeter levels will be different.

4. I would first try to understand why the tweeter failed. If you get another speaker component system and there are problems in the wiring or amplifier of the exisiting audio set up future speaker systems will also fail. So first figure out why it failed, rectify that, and then look at an alternate speaker system.
I was just reading up on the Focal website and apparently the P165 V15 Component speakers use a Focal TNB tweeter.

Links:
Speakers: http://www.focal.com/en/expert-archi...052750157.html

Tweeters: http://www.focal.com/en/t/410-tweeter-tnb.html

If i can pick up one of these, I presume I can just swap it out right?
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Old 2nd April 2014, 15:23   #12494
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Originally Posted by Sprucegoose View Post
Tweeters: http://www.focal.com/en/t/410-tweeter-tnb.html
If i can pick up one of these, I presume I can just swap it out right?
Yes you could and it would work too, Just find out the cost first. Sometimes the spare parts cost as more than the system.
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Old 2nd April 2014, 20:12   #12495
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Originally Posted by navin View Post
Yes you could and it would work too, Just find out the cost first. Sometimes the spare parts cost as more than the system.
Yeah, it's working out to 200 USD landed cost... Will see if I can get a cheaper on from somewhere
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