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Old 30th October 2015, 10:58   #12976
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Thanks. I have decided to retain the kappas and would replace the coaxials (got a friend who is willing to buy them at a good price ) and get the pioneer 2790bt. Will change the components to flux/rainbow at a later stage if required after I get a chance to audition them.
Good choice. That would work. You could actually go for kappa itself if you like the way they sound. Like i said i fry to keep the brand and models similar for timbre matching. Many would actually say is not a big deal. But i know some people who can find the difference.
If you spend quality time on the 2790bt for tuning you would eventually get the tune you are looking for.
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Old 30th October 2015, 11:04   #12977
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in your budget you can get JBL / cerwin vega 4 channel amp . If you extend your budget you can get even better amps. What would be the power for your Polk components ideally your amp should be able to supply them with equivalent power. If you don't have a subwoofer or plans of using one then you can use the 4 channel amp to power both front components and rear speakers.

Not sure about the technicality of the mono amp but normally used to pair it with a sub to get the best out of it .
You can get just any branded amp. It would do just fine. A new Sony 4 channel can do the job if want to go for it. In your budget range almost all the amps are going to perform the same.
Mono is generally used for subwoofer.
Just got for pioneer or Kenwood 4 channel amp that has crossover controls for hi pass and low pass.
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Old 30th October 2015, 12:03   #12978
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I dont suggest you downgrade to 2790 if you are looking for a good SQ even if you dont go for an active setup. There is a lot of difference the way the 80prs and 2790 are designed and implemented esp in the dac, preamp section and a lot more which mainly affects the SQ. If you are ok with a 1DIN, 80PRS is the way to go.

For speakers, for the time being better go with the kappa and if you find inadequate for your needs you can sell it off and get something better, ditch the rear speakers as it needs proper tuning to make it gel with the setup, but the benefit is almost nil

Last edited by ::CMS:: : 30th October 2015 at 12:07.
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Old 2nd November 2015, 00:42   #12979
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Hi everyone
I wanted to upgrade the HU on the VW Polo. My first priority is the JVC KWV41BT double din. I want to go for it since its a good HU and costs just about 20k. It comes with the support for the steering wheels audio controls but still i am not sure if those will work or not. Some told me that i would require a separate adapter for it but i still have not came across one.
So my only concern are the steering wheel controls. But if they wont work then i have to consider the dynavin n6 HU which is close to 50k and i don't really feel like spending so much.
Could some one provide help on this please ?
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Old 2nd November 2015, 07:24   #12980
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You can get the JVC to work with VW steering wheel button by using a can bus decoder or steering wheel integration unit. I generally use Metra Axess ASWC-1 which is an universal unit. Additionally you also need Fakera antenna adapter plugs to connect the new Hu to the existing antenna.

Dynavin is more of a glorified Chinese stereo but the advantage is the factory style can bus features and the plug and play õption. So for the extra money you pay you are getting something actually. If you are going Dynavin unit ensure you get it from an authorized local vendor with 2 or more years of warranty.
Good luck.
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Old 2nd November 2015, 15:01   #12981
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Hi Gurus,
I have a Swift ZXI bought last year. I had replaced the stock HU to a touch screen Pioneer AVH X1590 DVD from the dealer himself at the time of delivery , as I had opted for the rear View camera.
Two weeks ago, I changed the stock speakers to :
Fronts : Infinity Reference 6500cx component speakers
Rear : Infinity Reference 6502 ix co-axial speakers.
I do not have any amp/sub. The installer (car-ax, Pune) had pressed the +3db button on both the front crossovers and also on the rear co-ax speakers. Even though I am satisfied with the sound clarity , the bass is seriously lacking.The sound is a bit shrill, so I tone down the Treble from the HU. High Pass filter is set at 50Hz. When High Pass is disabled, I get good amount of bass out of the speakers, although sometimes it seems that its too much for the speakers to handle, so I have kept it at 50Hz.
Now I am thinking to go for a 4 channel amp and a sub. My overall budget is around 10-12 K including amp+sub. I would prefer subs with factory enclosures as I am not sure about the skills of installers here. I have shortlisted the below amps and subs. Experts please comment :
SUB:
1> Blaupunkt (My preferred choice as it's in my budget)
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/blau...sc-with/651047
2> Infinity - Reference 1220SE
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/infi...mbLabelId:3509
(out of budget, but still included if at all I am able to stretch my budget )
3>Auditor - RIP250B
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/audi...mbLabelId:3509

AMP:
1> Blaupunkt - GTA 470 SF
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/blau...plifier/651044
2>Blaupunkt - EMA 455
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/blau...e-class/651038
3>Pioneer - GM-A6604
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/pion...ble/1655704432
I dont like boomy bass, but I really enjoy tight bass. Based on this can you suggest best amp and sub combo, which would drive my Infinity front components and the sub?
Another option is to go for under-seat sub, which doesnt need an amp, but then I will have to power my front components with the HU itself( current setup)
1>Blaupunkt - XLF 200 A
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/blau...mbLabelId:3509
I am a noob at amps and subs. So I would like to know where is the amp generally installed? I would prefer underseat, but how do they install it? I mean I do not want to drill holes to install it.
Also, I want a sub which I can take out when I need the boot space.
Thanks a lot for your patience !
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Old 2nd November 2015, 15:55   #12982
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brigadier View Post
I am a noob at amps and subs. So I would like to know where is the amp generally installed? I would prefer underseat, but how do they install it? I mean I do not want to drill holes to install it.
Also, I want a sub which I can take out when I need the boot space.
Thanks a lot for your patience !
In my swift amp is installed in the boot and attached with screws to the backseat.

Woofer in a sealed enclosure is in boot and when I require space I take it out.

For amp look at Kenwood/ Rockford 4 channel series and for woofer try to get hold of Image Dynamics. If you want to get better amp then look at Digital Design amps.

Do get damping on boot and doors done, this car is basically a tin box and makes lot of noise. With damping you will notice the difference. You can go for Dynamat ao DampMat for this.

Audition before you buy and don't just take anything from online unless you have heard it before.
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Old 4th November 2015, 19:13   #12983
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Thanks Heydj , I will check that brand.

Anyone else, can you please answer my query ?
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Old 4th November 2015, 20:37   #12984
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brigadier View Post
Thanks Heydj , I will check that brand.

Anyone else, can you please answer my query ?
You can check Cerwin vega subwoofers, I have the vmax 124 and I find it vfm.
You can check the same or their hed series.
Cerwin vega / jbl / hertz/Acustika also have 4 channel amplifiers which have got good reviews.
If possible audition and then choose what you like.
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Old 5th November 2015, 09:40   #12985
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Originally Posted by Brigadier View Post
Hi Gurus,
I have a Swift ZXI bought last year. I had replaced the stock HU to a touch screen Pioneer AVH X1590 DVD from the dealer himself at the time of delivery , as I had opted for the rear View camera.
Two weeks ago, I changed the stock speakers to :
Fronts : Infinity Reference 6500cx component speakers
Rear : Infinity Reference 6502 ix co-axial speakers.
I do not have any amp/sub. The installer (car-ax, Pune) had pressed the +3db button on both the front crossovers and also on the rear co-ax speakers. Even though I am satisfied with the sound clarity , the bass is seriously lacking.The sound is a bit shrill, so I tone down the Treble from the HU. High Pass filter is set at 50Hz. When High Pass is disabled, I get good amount of bass out of the speakers, although sometimes it seems that its too much for the speakers to handle, so I have kept it at 50Hz.
Now I am thinking to go for a 4 channel amp and a sub. My overall budget is around 10-12 K including amp+sub. I would prefer subs with factory enclosures as I am not sure about the skills of installers here. I have shortlisted the below amps and subs. Experts please comment :
SUB:
1> Blaupunkt (My preferred choice as it's in my budget)
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/blau...sc-with/651047
2> Infinity - Reference 1220SE
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/infi...mbLabelId:3509
(out of budget, but still included if at all I am able to stretch my budget )
3>Auditor - RIP250B
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/audi...mbLabelId:3509

AMP:
1> Blaupunkt - GTA 470 SF
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/blau...plifier/651044
2>Blaupunkt - EMA 455
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/blau...e-class/651038
3>Pioneer - GM-A6604
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/pion...ble/1655704432
I dont like boomy bass, but I really enjoy tight bass. Based on this can you suggest best amp and sub combo, which would drive my Infinity front components and the sub?
Another option is to go for under-seat sub, which doesnt need an amp, but then I will have to power my front components with the HU itself( current setup)
1>Blaupunkt - XLF 200 A
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/blau...mbLabelId:3509
I am a noob at amps and subs. So I would like to know where is the amp generally installed? I would prefer underseat, but how do they install it? I mean I do not want to drill holes to install it.
Also, I want a sub which I can take out when I need the boot space.
Thanks a lot for your patience !
Even if you go with the basic blaupunkt prefab box with sub and the basic blaupunkt amp, it would be fine.

If i were you i would connect all the 4 speakers to the front channel of the amp. Bridge the rear for the sub.

Bring down the +3db on the tweeter to 0db or less. Position the tweeter on axis or atleast in a way the your ears are in direction of the tweeters. Leave the crossover settings on the amp as open or fullpass.

Match the gain on the amp with headunit. Typically the gain should be around 10 o clock. Maximum 12 o clock. Keep the bass boost on the amp at 0.

You can set the hpf for the hu at 80hz for the speakers. And subwoofer at lfp at 80hz. In the subwoofer settings set the sub volume to 3/4 of the max. For example if the sub gain control goes until 15 keep it around 11. Bring down the sub volume later on if you feel so.

If you feel the lack of punch in bass. Bump one or two notches on the bass boost setting. Keep the eq flat. And fine tune it from there.

The only thing you need to know is the phase alignment between speakers and sub.

First make sure all the speakers are in phase. Then make sure the sub is in phase with the speakers.


Good luck
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Old 6th November 2015, 19:39   #12986
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Originally Posted by general_neo View Post
Even if you go with the basic blaupunkt prefab box with sub and the basic blaupunkt amp, it would be fine.
............


Good luck
Thanks a lot . So now from the above list and also from your statement, I have shortlisted(almost finalized) the below 2 :
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/blau...sc-with/651047

and
http://www.snapdeal.com/product/blau...plifier/651044

Total would be approx ~10K. Now the question is, will this AMP be able to power this sub and the front 2 component speakers properly without going out of breath ? Also, I see that the sub enclosure is a little big . So can it fit in the tiny boot of the swift ?

Last edited by Brigadier : 6th November 2015 at 20:05.
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Old 7th November 2015, 00:07   #12987
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The amp does 200w rms at bridged mode, Which is more than enough for the sub.

You can actually power all the 4 speakers from the front channel. In that way the overall sound quality will be clear due to equal power distribution. In scenario 2 where you have rear speakers working in 15w rms and front running close to 50w rms. The rear is going to distort like hell.

The sub enclosure will fit your trunk.

Just make sure the amp gets good ventilation if your are the type the pushes hard.
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Old 7th November 2015, 00:40   #12988
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Originally Posted by general_neo View Post

You can actually power all the 4 speakers from the front channel. In that way the overall sound quality will be clear due to equal power distribution.
Didnt get you, could you please clarify.
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Old 7th November 2015, 01:28   #12989
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Didnt get you, could you please clarify.
Some call it the tri mode...

Amp has 4 channels.

Front Left, Front Right
Rear Left, Rear Right

Connect
1. Front Left and Rear Left speakers to Front Left of the amplifier in parallel connection

2. Front Right and Rear right speakers to the Front Right of the amplifier in parallel connection

3. Connect the subwoofer in bridge connection to the Rear Left and Rear right of the amplifier.

Hope the image below gives you an idea.


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Old 7th November 2015, 02:05   #12990
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Some call it the tri mode...
Isnt it a least preferred connection method to an amp by adding two set of speakers to a single channel. Instead it would be far better with just front speakers. Parallel connection will load the amp with lesser impedance and will put the amp to clip early and unpredictable. It will be more dangerous when the amp is in bridged mode.

Last edited by ::CMS:: : 7th November 2015 at 02:13.
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