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Old 9th November 2015, 21:28   #13006
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Originally Posted by heydj View Post
With money saved get some damping done.
Thanks for your reply. Separate budget allocated for sound dampening already.

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Originally Posted by heydj View Post
If you do not want tweeters then forget components and get 3 way coaxials.
The only reason I am avoiding tweeters is extra cutting involved. If I get a three way speaker - isn't it supposed to have tweeter function (i.e. high frequencies) integrated?

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Originally Posted by heydj View Post
Look at Rockford punch series coaxials, they can work without amp.
Without an amp, how to achieve the crossing over? If I can't channel the various frequencies, how will the three-way speaker work to its full potential?
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Old 10th November 2015, 00:41   #13007
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^^ I have understood your point. I was wrong about the component / coaxial thing.

I have decided this:

4" Component speaker at front.
Tweeters on a-pillar
4-channel amp
Space-saving subwoofer vs rear coaxials - any one

Last edited by wishnipon : 10th November 2015 at 00:43.
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Old 10th November 2015, 00:55   #13008
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Originally Posted by nishchal316 View Post
Please suggest among the following two options for the VW Polo

The reason I want to go for the option 2 is because i'll be able to save approximately 30k if I choose the JVC over Dynavin but at the same time I don't like the mess of an amplifier and I am also not very sure if i'll be able to retain the steering mounted controls, which is why I am considering the option 1. Personally I am not very comfortable with adding an amplifier but I also don't want to compromise on the the SQ.
So please suggest which option go for.
Dont change HU for DSP instead keep oem HU and buy a DSP such as Mosconi 4to6 for 25k, this is more future proof as you will not be limited to lousy OEM HU's.

DSP alone cannot make music sound good without nicely powered components, for these you will need an amp. Also active sub listed is not so good and dsp cannot help.

For good SQ and for components to run properly buy a 4 channel amp and a standalone sub.

Stay away from Sony unless you want big boomy sound and want whole city to hear your music. If this is what you like then get something better by Kicker or Rockford.

Quote:
Originally Posted by wishnipon View Post
^^ I have understood your point. I was wrong about the component / coaxial thing.

I have decided this:

4" Component speaker at front.
Tweeters on a-pillar
4-channel amp
Space-saving subwoofer vs rear coaxials - any one
For music you listen rear coaxials would be fine provided you can balance them with front components. Point is the music should blend. Audition this setup, if you feel coaxials will not do then get a 8 inch sub.

Last edited by Aditya : 10th November 2015 at 07:40. Reason: Merging back to back posts
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Old 10th November 2015, 01:53   #13009
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Thanks for your suggestions. I was searching online and it seems 4 inch components are not easy to come by! Do you have any specific brand in mind?
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Old 10th November 2015, 02:56   #13010
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Thanks for your suggestions. I was searching online and it seems 4 inch components are not easy to come by! Do you have any specific brand in mind?
Welcome.

Check Rainbow Dreamline Dl c4.2.


http://www.rainbow-audio.de/en/speaker/dream-line/
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Old 10th November 2015, 16:48   #13011
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Originally Posted by heydj View Post
Stay away from Sony unless you want big boomy sound and want whole city to hear your music. If this is what you like then get something better by Kicker or Rockford.
I just want good deep bass inside the car, don't want to shake the mirrors of buildings. Also if I go for the JVC HU, is there an adapter for VW cars to get the steering wheel controls working? Like the Pioneer head units support steering wheel controls for only japanese cars and are not compatible with Can-bus cars. It's mentioned on their website.So is there any way to get the steering controls to work on the vw ?

So if i go for an amp and a subwoofer which one should i go for. I want to power the rear speakers and the subwoofer with the amp.

Last edited by nishchal316 : 10th November 2015 at 16:50. Reason: Had forgotten to ask something more
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Old 10th November 2015, 21:52   #13012
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The best would be a Rainbow Audio Dreamline Sub with a Rainbow Beat 2 amp bridged. Expensive, but a lovely product, which delivers punchy bass without being boomy and excessive
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Old 11th November 2015, 00:07   #13013
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One question to heydj, where did you connect your grounding wire in your swift? I read on net that one option is to drill a hole in body and connect it there. I seriously do not want to drill any holes in car's body.
No holes neede. In both my cars grounding done by connecting wire to rear seat middle seatbelt nut, place where screw gets tightened. First from this screw scrap away any paint.

Quote:
Originally Posted by nishchal316 View Post
I just want good deep bass inside the car, don't want to shake the mirrors of buildings. Also if I go for the JVC HU, is there an adapter for VW cars to get the steering wheel controls working? Like the Pioneer head units support steering wheel controls for only japanese cars and are not compatible with Can-bus cars. It's mentioned on their website.So is there any way to get the steering controls to work on the vw ?

So if i go for an amp and a subwoofer which one should i go for. I want to power the rear speakers and the subwoofer with the amp.
I don't know about retaining controls, if you just get a dsp and leave HU alone then whichever car you have no money will be spent to retain factory features.

In my Rapid I have Digital Design A4 class AB 4 channel amp mated with Image Dynamics sub and Rainbow Dreamline components.

In my Swift Bull Audio components, image dynamics sub, and Kenwood 4 channel class D amp.

I would suggest class AB amp, Rainbow amps are more bright then DD. Audition both, I chose DD A4 over Rainbow Beat 4.
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Old 11th November 2015, 22:41   #13014
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Does any one have any experience with miniDSP. On net I see good reviews, I am lookimg for simple and cheap dsp for car.


https://www.minidsp.com/products/min...ox/minidsp-2x4
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Old 12th November 2015, 13:46   #13015
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!

Is it advisable to connect a 4 channel amplifier to front components, rear fills and subwoofer all together?

As in - front channels of the amp connected to the front component speakers and the rear fills. While the rear channels of the sub are bridged to power the sub.

I understand we lose front / rear fader with this setup. But any other disadvantages, or chances of overloading and frying the system?

Speakers are of same make. So not too worried about the sound signature, or loss of fader control.

PS: Or would I be better off connecting the rear fills directly to the head unit?

Last edited by CrAzY dRiVeR : 12th November 2015 at 13:47.
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Old 12th November 2015, 18:05   #13016
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Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR View Post
Is it advisable to connect a 4 channel amplifier to front components, rear fills and subwoofer all together?
IMHO, a 4 Channel Amp is used to connect the front components and a Sub Woofer. The rear fills should be directly connected to the head unit.

If a mono block is to be introduced in the above setup, then the Sub should be connected to the mono block. The other 2 channels of the 4 channel amplifier can be used to power the rear fills. In the case of sedans, the rear fill will over power the front components in which case the entire setup would sound too bright and harsh.
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Old 12th November 2015, 18:38   #13017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CrAzY dRiVeR View Post
Is it advisable to connect a 4 channel amplifier to front components, rear fills and subwoofer all together?

As in - front channels of the amp connected to the front component speakers and the rear fills. While the rear channels of the sub are bridged to power the sub.

I understand we lose front / rear fader with this setup. But any other disadvantages, or chances of overloading and frying the system?

Speakers are of same make. So not too worried about the sound signature, or loss of fader control.

PS: Or would I be better off connecting the rear fills directly to the head unit?
Nothing wrong if installed and tuned properly. Just make sure they are having 4 ohms or higher impedance per speaker. And the amp supports 2 ohms mode.
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Old 12th November 2015, 21:03   #13018
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Originally Posted by Prodigy07 View Post
IMHO, a 4 Channel Amp is used to connect the front components and a Sub Woofer. The rear fills should be directly connected to the head unit.

If a mono block is to be introduced in the above setup, then the Sub should be connected to the mono block. The other 2 channels of the 4 channel amplifier can be used to power the rear fills. In the case of sedans, the rear fill will over power the front components in which case the entire setup would sound too bright and harsh.
Thank you.

You're right. That's what even I had in mind. But recently came across a setup with another BHP'ian where he had front and rear components and a sub powered by a four channel (Class D) amplifier.

Mine is an AB. Not sure if that matters!

I would be trying to get a mono block later, but don't want the rear to miss out till then.

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Originally Posted by general_neo View Post
Nothing wrong if installed and tuned properly. Just make sure they are having 4 ohms or higher impedance per speaker. And the amp supports 2 ohms mode.
Thank you.

Amp is a DLS XProgram XA-40. The specifications says it can provide 4*50W at 4 ohms 1 THD, 4*70W at 2 ohms 2 THD. Now that makes it two ohm stable right?

http://www.phd.it/welcome_to/speakers/mf62_kit.asp
http://www.phd.it/welcome_to/speakers/fb61.asp

Last edited by CrAzY dRiVeR : 12th November 2015 at 21:09.
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Old 12th November 2015, 23:51   #13019
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So finally after some questions and answers on this thread, I have finally installed the setup in my car. Received the Amp- Blaupunkt GTA 470 SF today(ordered from Snapdeal) and bought the sub - Blaupunkt GTB 1200 SC from the installer at 6K(yes, I know its a bit expensive as compared to online retailers). The wire kit used was of some "Connect" brand for 3.4k. I also damped the front 2 doors. Cost for each sheet was Rs 850/-.Total 4 sheets required in all.
So the main question is, am I happy ? The answer is Yes I am happy. I loved the sound signature . Metallica (Turn the page, fade to black) sounds so sweet .I have noticed 2 small issues though :
First issue is that the low beam of right head lamp stopped working, but high beam is working fine . I don't know if that was the case before installing setup, or if installing the amp messed up with the low beam of the right side headlight.
Second issue is that I am able to hear slight whistle type sound from speakers when I rev the engine. This sound disappears if I turn off the system(read : HU). What could be the issue here, shall I go back to the installer?
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Old 13th November 2015, 17:58   #13020
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Originally Posted by Brigadier View Post
I have noticed 2 small issues though :
First issue is that the low beam of right head lamp stopped working, but high beam is working fine . I don't know if that was the case before installing setup, or if installing the amp messed up with the low beam of the right side headlight.
Second issue is that I am able to hear slight whistle type sound from speakers when I rev the engine. This sound disappears if I turn off the system(read : HU). What could be the issue here, shall I go back to the installer?
Go back to the installer, maybe a fuse issue while connecting wires.

As for sound from speakers - check gain settings on amplifier, at times if its too high then sound comes from speakers. If you don't know how to check then go to installer as mismatch here can cause issues in the system.

Last edited by heydj : 13th November 2015 at 18:20.
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