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Old 28th October 2016, 14:12   #13291
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deepfusion View Post
Checked. One tweeter is toast.

Now I shall have to look for tweeters that can handle the power given by gladen one-120.4.

Pls guide me on buying capable tweeters.
Please try doing a passive install with the company-provided crossovers after buying new tweeters. Going active is dangerous with inexperienced installers
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Old 28th October 2016, 16:25   #13292
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Originally Posted by deepfusion View Post
Pls guide me on buying capable tweeters.
Tweeters and woofers are sold as a set. Unless you know what you are doing with respect to crossovers, sensitivity and impedance correction etc do not mix and match.
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Old 28th October 2016, 16:54   #13293
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So i bought a kenwood unit which says it supports android music playback over usb. Connected my moto x force and it says no device connected.

Could you guys help me out with devices which support AOA?

Kenwood's site has a list of phones dated till June 2015 only.
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Old 28th October 2016, 17:41   #13294
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deepfusion View Post
Checked. One tweeter is toast.

Now I shall have to look for tweeters that can handle the power given by gladen one-120.4.

Pls guide me on buying capable tweeters.
Are you sure the tweeter is blown, and not the crossover ( ie multimeter at tweeter terminals reads open circuit?)
What comps are you running

Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
Tweeters and woofers are sold as a set. Unless you know what you are doing with respect to crossovers, sensitivity and impedance correction etc do not mix and match.
Navin, Just curious here -
Making some assumptions as I'm not sure what his current comps are -
if his current XO is a simple 2nd/3rd order filter, and the impedance matches, if he buys a tweeter which can go lower than his current comp's crossover point, won't the processor take care of the level mismatch between the woofer and the tweeter?

I'm assuming he's using some sort of calibration mic to help with tuning the response in the car( if he's not, here you go)
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Old 29th October 2016, 10:40   #13295
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenhorn View Post
Making some assumptions as I'm not sure what his current comps are -
if his current XO is a simple 2nd/3rd order filter, and the impedance matches, if he buys a tweeter which can go lower than his current comp's crossover point, won't the processor take care of the level mismatch between the woofer and the tweeter?
Greenhorn, You got 3 big IFs there. IF the XO is simple (aka Butterworth) 2nd order and IF the impedance (which varies with frequency) matches and IF he can get a tweeter with a lower Fs (measured not published). Then the processor may compensate if he takes enough samples (for example a complete sweep in 6 locations).

It might be easier to (a) check if the voice coil is blown or if it just a terminal disconnection (b) if the tweeter is indeed damaged replace the set.

Typically what I find is that the tweeter's voice coil has detached from the terminal but the point of detachment is not accessible. This is not so much due to excessive power but more often due to some low frequency that escaped the XO (say around 1000Hz) and forced the coil to travel beyond it's physical limits.

Last edited by navin : 29th October 2016 at 10:42.
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Old 31st October 2016, 17:55   #13296
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenhorn View Post
Are you sure the tweeter is blown, and not the crossover ( ie multimeter at tweeter terminals reads open circuit?)
What comps are you running



Navin, Just curious here -
Making some assumptions as I'm not sure what his current comps are -
if his current XO is a simple 2nd/3rd order filter, and the impedance matches, if he buys a tweeter which can go lower than his current comp's crossover point, won't the processor take care of the level mismatch between the woofer and the tweeter?

I'm assuming he's using some sort of calibration mic to help with tuning the response in the car( if he's not, here you go)
I have gotten myself into the wrong field. I am completely noob at audio instals and intricacies involved. Was just experimenting based on suggestions and reads on TBHP. Never knew these things would also be needed.

The tweeter stopped giveing any sound and so it was concluded that it had blown up.

I shall buy a calibration mic also now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
Greenhorn, You got 3 big IFs there. IF the XO is simple (aka Butterworth) 2nd order and IF the impedance (which varies with frequency) matches and IF he can get a tweeter with a lower Fs (measured not published). Then the processor may compensate if he takes enough samples (for example a complete sweep in 6 locations).

It might be easier to (a) check if the voice coil is blown or if it just a terminal disconnection (b) if the tweeter is indeed damaged replace the set.

Typically what I find is that the tweeter's voice coil has detached from the terminal but the point of detachment is not accessible. This is not so much due to excessive power but more often due to some low frequency that escaped the XO (say around 1000Hz) and forced the coil to travel beyond it's physical limits.
I am not aware of any body repairing tweeters and speakers in Delhi NCR. I have Image Dynamics Mids also lying around which I need to get repaired.

I have been suggested Dayton audio DC28F.
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Old 31st October 2016, 18:30   #13297
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deepfusion View Post
I have gotten myself into the wrong field. I am completely noob at audio instals and intricacies involved. Was just experimenting based on suggestions and reads on TBHP.
I shall buy a calibration mic also now.
Not if you dont know how to use it
download audiotool on your smartphone and figure out if you can use it to tune your bit ten. Else using the mic/tuning it may be beyond your capabilities

You still havent mentioned which comps you have
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Old 31st October 2016, 18:41   #13298
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenhorn View Post
Not if you dont know how to use it
download audiotool on your smartphone and figure out if you can use it to tune your bit ten. Else using the mic/tuning it may be beyond your capabilities

You still havent mentioned which comps you have
I will download the audiotool right away. BTW, I already did instal Room Equalisation wizard on my laptop. I plan using my HT's mic with the laptop to tune the bit ten.

Sorry. I am using Illusion Audio ND 6.

Last edited by deepfusion : 31st October 2016 at 18:44.
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Old 31st October 2016, 19:45   #13299
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!

Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
You got 3 big IFs there.
Hi Navin,
I was wondering about which is the best source through which we can get better quality sound output considering each has same format file on it. Will there be considerable difference in sound output quality when I play the same file through:
1. CD
2. AUX
3. Pen Drive/ memory card.
4. USB (specially iphones)
I won't add Bluetooth to the list as I know it doesn't belong there.
I also find playing audio through iphone connected via USB to be the best, but I just might be imagining that as it's an iPhone. But there is certainly an advantage there as we can use phone's equalizer to get desired sound output, even via AUX.
I did a google search but couldn't get any answers.

Last edited by wrongturn : 31st October 2016 at 19:49.
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Old 1st November 2016, 12:33   #13300
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!

Quote:
Originally Posted by wrongturn View Post
1. CD
2. AUX
3. Pen Drive/ memory card.
4. USB (specially iphones)
I won't add Bluetooth to the list as I know it doesn't belong there.
I also find playing audio through iphone connected via USB to be the best, but I just might be imagining that as it's an iPhone. But there is certainly an advantage there as we can use phone's equalizer to get desired sound output, even via AUX.
I did a google search but couldn't get any answers.
There is no one answer as SQ depends on encoding and bitrate of songs along with source.

E.g. if via USB you play a FLAC coded song and have the necessary audio system to make the best out of that file then it should theoretically sound great.

If playing via Aux then wire matters that is being used, i.e. is it cheap stuff found on roadside or something of high quality.

Within Aux/USB/Pendrive I would suggest keeping sound coding at minimum 192 Kbps and aim for 320Kbps i.e. when ripping a song from CD or downloading stuff, but up-scaling a song coded at 128kbs to 320 kbps will have no desired result.

It also depends on DAC in source instrument, generally mp3 players and phones have some sort of DAC but quality of the same leaves lot to be desired. In recent times and since iPod classic 5th generation back in 2007, DAC in Apple phones and iPods leaves lot to be desired. Generally among all phones these days HTC One series is giving cleanest and loudest output (Source reviews on Gsmarena, PhoneArena, AnandTech, my own personal use, etc.)

I personally switch off EQ on iPod when connected to car stereo as I can feel lot of distortion and my tweeters sounding hyper active. Generally keep sound leveling option On.
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Old 2nd November 2016, 11:00   #13301
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!

Quote:
Originally Posted by deepfusion View Post
I have been suggested Dayton audio DC28F.
The DC28AF is too big a tweeter to fit in a car without some serious modifications. You would ideally need something along the lines of the Vifa D26NC (which is long discontinued). See pic.
http://www.audiomania.ru/avto_tweete...6nc-05-06.html

Quote:
Originally Posted by deepfusion View Post
Sorry. I am using Illusion Audio ND 6.
These too are long discontinued.

Quote:
Originally Posted by heydj View Post
There is no one answer as SQ depends on encoding and bitrate of songs along with source.
Lets assume each of the 4 sources has the same music, same bit rate, same encoding, etc. I would assume a Pen Drive or SD card would offer the best output as it would be mechanically the most stable.
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Old 2nd November 2016, 11:49   #13302
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Default Pioneer Park Brake Wire Question

I'm installing a Pioneer AVH 8890BT HU now and need help with the park brake wire. Where do i connect it to? The manual asking me to connect ro the +side of the handbrake switch. Are there any alternatives to connecting it to the switch?
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Old 2nd November 2016, 12:03   #13303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deepfusion View Post
Sorry. I am using Illusion Audio ND 6.
Not able to find any product information on this
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/car-en...egrity-44.html (vRs(q) Monster : Eclipse | Illusion Audio | Harman Kardon | Stereo Integrity)
this is the closest i could get

the good news is that the crossover point is 4Khz, so you have more options

the not so good news is that I'm not sure how those resistors are set up, and without seeing the underside of the PCB, or a circuit diagram, not sure how things would work.
My guess is that most probably they're used as switchable attenuation for the tweeter, but would prefer to be sure.

also, with so many jumpers, make sure that your tweeter is not dead because of a loose connection there.

Last edited by greenhorn : 2nd November 2016 at 12:06.
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Old 2nd November 2016, 13:02   #13304
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!

Quote:
Originally Posted by greenhorn View Post
Not able to find any product information on this
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/car-en...egrity-44.html (vRs(q) Monster : Eclipse | Illusion Audio | Harman Kardon | Stereo Integrity)
this is the closest i could get

the good news is that the crossover point is 4Khz, so you have more options

the not so good news is that I'm not sure how those resistors are set up, and without seeing the underside of the PCB, or a circuit diagram, not sure how things would work.
My guess is that most probably they're used as switchable attenuation for the tweeter, but would prefer to be sure.

also, with so many jumpers, make sure that your tweeter is not dead because of a loose connection there.
Every inch of wiring has been checked and reconnected wherever felt.

Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
The DC28AF is too big a tweeter to fit in a car without some serious modifications. You would ideally need something along the lines of the Vifa D26NC (which is long discontinued). See pic.
http://www.audiomania.ru/avto_tweete...6nc-05-06.html



These too are long discontinued.
I have not been able to find any replacement for the tweets. Even Ramie doesn't have them, and has not been able to source them.

The only other option left is to try and get the tweeters that I have repaired. I have learnt about a person in Noida who repairs these, so would give it a try. In the meanwhile, I have ordered the Daytons, pod fabrication would have to be done for them.
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Old 2nd November 2016, 16:38   #13305
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Default Re: Car Audio Advice from the Audio Gurus: Use "Search thread" before posting a new Q!

since the tweeters seem to be used with an L pad, you may not need to buy something with so much power handling. if we could figure out the L pad values being used, we might be able to use something with much less power handling

PS, why the dayton?
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