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Old 30th September 2009, 20:08   #106
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Originally Posted by frankmehta View Post
Congratulations. I didn't pick up the PPI's thinking they were cheap, so must not be too great, but yes, they give a tough fight to components even double their cost. I am so tempted to pick up a set for the heck of it!
you can get them from ebay global buy cheaper than KMD. only 10.4k inclusive of everything shipped to your home.
I missed the deal paying 12k to KMD :(
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Old 30th September 2009, 20:11   #107
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But we dont know if Global Buy actually delivers on time and in good condition. Also they have no such rules for RMA/Warranty. Stick to KMD man. 1.6k for a year of warranty is a joke!
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Old 30th September 2009, 23:37   #108
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Originally Posted by frankmehta View Post
But we dont know if Global Buy actually delivers on time and in good condition. Also they have no such rules for RMA/Warranty. Stick to KMD man. 1.6k for a year of warranty is a joke!
Yep.Very True.Thats why sticking with KMD. I have decided to go for Pioneer p800 prs as my head unit. Rather than P80 RS II. as the former has a copper chassis. Is there any difference in both except than the radio in US and Asia model.
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Old 1st October 2009, 00:20   #109
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Pioneer 8850 VS P80 RSII - DIY Mobile Audio

stay tuned here ;-)
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Old 1st October 2009, 01:28   #110
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Originally Posted by frankmehta View Post
Frank bro its all about 8850 and p80RS II

I need to know about difference between P80RS II(Asian Model) and P800 prs(US Model)

One diff i know is that the US model has copper chassis. what other diff are there
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Old 1st October 2009, 01:30   #111
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Originally Posted by frankmehta View Post
How about this
Difference between P800RS and P880 RS? - DIY Mobile Audio

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Old 4th October 2009, 23:17   #112
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Ok guys. Made some changes.
  • Crossovers have been shifted slightly up on the rack to facilitate easy adjustments (tweeter levels, phase etc)
  • Sub-woofer enclosure has been stuffed with a kilo of Polyfill.
  • Rear speakers couldn't be removed due to Ford's stupid policy of giving a NON-foldable rear seat on the S. I will have to dismantle the whole seat and remove the speakers.
  • The rear parcel shelf is going to be fibre glassed. There is WAY too much flex and vibration.
  • Work is underway on the tweeter pods.
Photos:
Attached Thumbnails
Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-04102009006-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-04102009007-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-04102009008-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-04102009009-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-04102009012-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-04102009013-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-04102009014-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-04102009015-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-04102009017-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-p1020979-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-p1020980-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-p1020984-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-p1020985-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-p1020986-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-p1020987-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-p1030013-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-p1030014-desktop-resolution.jpg  

Ford Fiesta S: Eclipse, XBL2 and NOW WITH HORNS!-p1030015-desktop-resolution.jpg  


Last edited by frankmehta : 4th October 2009 at 23:22. Reason: added more pictures
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Old 4th October 2009, 23:27   #113
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The tweeter pod project is quite interesting. Waiting to see the final instal
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Old 5th October 2009, 10:51   #114
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Quote:
Originally Posted by frankmehta View Post
[*]Sub-woofer enclosure has been stuffed with a kilo of Polyfill.[*]The rear parcel shelf is going to be fibre glassed. There is WAY too much flex and vibration.
1. dont over stuff the box. it will deaden the bass. Best way is to do an impedance sweep but 1 pound of stuffing per cubic foot of box volume is what I'd start with. A little more but that's it.

2. do the Fiber glassing in layers. After each layer check the weight. I would even go so far as to sandwich a thin sheet of 3-4mm MDF beween the layers. Fiberglass while stuff is not a well damped material and the wood will help damp resonances.
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Old 5th October 2009, 12:21   #115
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Tweeter pods seem to be shapping up nicely, waiting for the final finish. what kind of paint are you using on the plastic part?

whats the new craze with copper chassis? particularly when there is no power amplifier in it?

Last edited by gigy : 5th October 2009 at 12:23.
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Old 5th October 2009, 14:34   #116
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gigy, I thought copper chassis is used solely to reduce EMI (as in Electro-Magnetic Interference, not the banking jargon popular these days) from outside(?) If so, why do you associate it with power amplification?
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Old 5th October 2009, 18:05   #117
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Copper conducts heat better than whatever material (aluminum) is used in normal head units power amplifier, but this head unit doesn't have a power amplifier built in.
Less EMI with copper, ya possible but how much?
The whole chassis doesn't look copper?
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Old 5th October 2009, 21:23   #118
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A quick google search revealed that though copper is more conductive (both heat and electricity), aluminum is more commonly used for heat sinks, because it has a lot of advantages over copper- costs much lesser, is light weight and it is more inert (copper deteriorates much more easily over time).

I could be wrong, but I doubt (based on my limited knowledge) if "chassis" serves as (or is meant to aid) heat sinks even in HUs with power amplifiers. From pictures, the HU does seem to have copper chassis all around.

Regarding how much lesser EMI with copper, well any question starting with "how much" is debatable in high end audio! let us not get into that.
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Old 6th October 2009, 11:23   #119
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Originally Posted by santosh.s View Post
it is more inert (copper deteriorates much more easily over time). From pictures, the HU does seem to have copper chassis all around.Regarding how much lesser EMI with copper, well any question starting with "how much" is debatable in high end audio! let us not get into that.
Alminum can be anodised. Anodising is a process by which a controlled ammout of Al2O3 is allowe to form over the Aluminum substrate. Al2O3 is pretty inert and hardy to corrosion. With Anodising you can even tint the aluminum substrate various colours by choosing the right solutions.

As far as EMI is concnerned Copper and Brass are found to work best. I can provide emperical/anecdotal data as well as technical reasons but this would involve delving into the depths of the theory of RF (Radio Frequency) transmission and interference. Seriously OT here.

Copper when used is covered with lacquer to prevent it being oxidised. If you open a Marantz product that has Ken Ishiwata's signature on it you will see copper plate used to shield the electronics from the Power supply. In fact David Price has a copper bodied version of this CD Player commissioned by Marantz
Marantz cd63 david price photo image by Rusky_Biscuit on Photobucket

Atleast one copper CD63KI (David Price special) saw a very sorry end. A well meaning wife decided to clean the fingerprints on the CD player and damaged the lacquer. The Copper then oxidised and looked so bad that eventually a standard black box was ordered to replace the old gleaming copper box. Then one day the batteries of the CD player's remote that was lying on top of the CD player leaked and acid streaked out of the remote all over the CD player's front. So now the CD player is getting a new box made from SS and covered in anodised aluminum (choice of colour - red, blue, green, black, silver or gold). The colour choice will depend on what colour the Valve amp's box is (the valve amps are still being de-bugged). Sorry for the OT rant.

Last edited by navin : 6th October 2009 at 11:37.
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Old 6th October 2009, 16:53   #120
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Quote:
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what kind of paint are you using on the plastic part?
Automotive paint. Same color as that of the pillar cladding.
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