[jkdas]

The Clarion HU with 2 pre-amp out.

It's supposed to have something called HMI ( Human Machine Interface) or so which is supposed to make playing with the HU easy. They must be joking





The dash before we put in the dash kit.





The dash kit for A-Star



The tweeters in place and our man inspects it.

[Sankar]

Note to self: Tweeter needs repositioning for better imaging.

Originally Posted by jkdas

The Clarion HU with 2 pre-amp out.

It's supposed to have something called HMI ( Human Machine Interface) or so which is supposed to make playing with the HU easy. They must be joking

Actually it is very easy once the controls are familiarised. Must be the same with any HU for a first time user.

Originally Posted by Sankar

Jk, how does it compare in your opinion to other installs with similar budget? Compare sound wise, i mean!

Asking you since i haven't heard many.

JK, ^^ you missed this.

[jkdas]

Originally Posted by Sankar

Note to self: Tweeter needs repositioning for better imaging.

Actually it is very easy once the controls are familiarised. Must be the same with any HU for a first time user.

JK, ^^ you missed this.

See how you can plug the hole and where you will put it.

And yes I saw your post but wanted to complete the posting first.

If I compare it with my 608C; Auditor is not at all bright. Auditor kicks good, maybe your full door damping helped even when you pump up volume. Also, the need for sub for now never came to my mind.
I was pretty happy that I didn't feel sick hearing to music at loud volume for what 5 hours plus continuously?

I also heard a Dieci series of Hertz on the same way. It also was very bright and didn't play vocals good like Auditor.

[nitrous]

Congratulations, Sankar.
Btw, is the HU the Clarion VZ309?

[Sankar]

Thanks Nitrous. The HU is Clarion CZ300.
I wanted CZ309 since it had 6 pre-outs but shop ran out of stock.

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by jkdas

See how you can plug the hole and where you will put it.

And yes I saw your post but wanted to complete the posting first.

If I compare it with my 608C; Auditor is not at all bright. Auditor kicks good, maybe your full door damping helped even when you pump up volume. Also, the need for sub for now never came to my mind.
I was pretty happy that I didn't feel sick hearing to music at loud volume for what 5 hours plus continuously?

I also heard a Dieci series of Hertz on the same way. It also was very bright and didn't play vocals good like Auditor.

Danke!
Hmmm... i'll leave the tweeters in the present location. Maybe when i do an upgrade will think about it.

[Nandan]

Was the damping done for the inner surface for the doors?
Looking at the pics, damping done is minimal, How much did this cost?

Congrats for the install and +1 for pending auditions from my side

[jkdas]

Damping cost 750/door.There is also bit of damping on the inside part too.

[Sankar]

Changes made:
HU changed from Clarion CZ300 to Kenwood X794
Amp changed from Clarion XR2410 to Alpine PDX F4

Changes to be made:
Front compos to be changed to Focal Access 165 A3

[Sankar]

AStar has an option to mount 4" speakers on top of the dash in addition to the 6.5" location on the doors. In case of 3Way front components is it advisable to use 4" location on top of the dash to mount the midrange? Tweeter will be put on A-Pillar.

Focal Access 165A3

[thelord]

Congrats for the upgrade! If you ask me, I'd place the mid-range very close to the tweeter and possibly directed the same way as the tweeter (Easy to do TA if you have mid-range and tweeter on the same channel). By the way, are the Focal crossover's bi-amp ready? The X794 has TA for each of it's 6 pre-out.

[Sankar]

Thanks mate! This is going to be a DIY install, without any custom pods so, placing the midrange directed the same way as the tweeter is going to be really tough. If kept in the stock location midrange will point towards the windscreen and tweeter will point towards the listener. The crossovers are not bi-amp capable.

I'm fiddling with the TA presents in the HU i like it :-) My setup doesn't have a sub right now.

Btw in the amp i've put 60Hz and above as the HPF crossover point for the front comps (Auditor at present, Focal has not gone in) and 90 Hz for the 6.5" co-ax in the rear. Should i keep the HPF higher, like 90 or 100? It sounds good for my ears right now, midbass sounds good now.

[chiragh_bir]

@ sankar ... how much for focal 3 way ???

[Sankar]

Finally... the Focal 3 ways are in..whew.
First i took it to a accessory shop to get this thing installed, they screwed up the installation, messed up wiring, messed up fitting, messed up a crossover (i think) because the tweeter wasn't functioning. I was very heartbroken, frustrated, angry, and unhappy.
Not wanting to risk going to another so called car accessory shop in Tvm, i re-did the whole thing myself, it took two days, and i hurt my back. Fixed another crossover, re did the wiring (still not upto my standards, i need to get a spool and re do the thing once again with soldering and heat shrink tubing), re-installed the tweeter (off axis), re-installed the midrange, secured the crossover with screws, and tuned the amps (still learning, but sounds good for now).

Two new additions were made to the exisitng setup, a JBL mono and a JBL 12" sealed sub (CS series). Half the boot is gone

Listening to a 3 way car setup for the first time, compared to my earlier two way setup, there is a huge difference in clarity - mid is punchy, vocals are always clear, bass is good. Sub is not overpowering the front stage at all, i wanted it to be transparent. I didn't want to hear the sub thumping from the back of the car. Tuning might not be perfect, due to limitations couldn't tune at high volume, but it sounds good in the volume range i listen to usually.

Crossover frequency is setup in the headunit; Front is 50hz and rear is 80Hz, slope is set at -18db/oct for both channels. Sub out is set at 40Hz -12db/oct.

If my XO setup is wrong please correct me.

Btw, the JBL mono has a HP pot reading from 10Hz to 100hz in addition to the LP pot; this hp pot is marked together with a bass boost pot. Why does the mono have a HP pot? Bass boost is kept at 0db now.

The rear fill is by Auditor 6.5" coax, i'm thinking of replacing the exisitng coax driver with the midbass unit of the Auditor front comp. Is it a wise idea?

[nitrous]

Originally Posted by Sankar

Why does the mono have a HP pot?

It's otherwise called a subsonic filter.
There's no music content below 30Hz and setting this HP @ 30Hz will eliminate the bad bass that stresses the sub and let the subwoofer be at its "power band" all the time.