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Old 14th September 2010, 19:19   #31
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Zombie69, thats a clean and nice install. Me likes. Mine was a bit messy in comparison. Hope you're enjoying the thud Hope you damped the outer skin of the door too.

I have 3 1/2 sheets remaining from my install thinking where to put it.
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Old 14th September 2010, 21:57   #32
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Originally Posted by navin View Post
Fantastic!

Jap-Korean cars seem to benefit more from damping than German cars (aka Octavia vs Corolla for example).

BTW I see Dynamat now got Chip Foose as their brand ambassador!
What would be the reason for that? I mean why would Jap/Korean cars benefit more as compared to the German cars? I thought damping will help all cars, irrespective of German or Jap! Cheers! -Z

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Originally Posted by quadra View Post
how much did you get it for ? cost of install ??
It did cost me USD 55 and installation cost INR 350. (this is not only for damping but for other stuff which i got installed from Satya)

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Originally Posted by Sankar View Post
Zombie69, thats a clean and nice install. Me likes. Mine was a bit messy in comparison. Hope you're enjoying the thud Hope you damped the outer skin of the door too.

I have 3 1/2 sheets remaining from my install thinking where to put it.
Thank you Sankar! I'm enjoying the Thud as well as the other sounds which I had never heard before! Now I understand why "real" music enthusiasts/lovers recommend damping. You can use the remaining sheets to damp the floor! helps reducing road noise! Cheers! -Z

Last edited by navin : 15th September 2010 at 10:24. Reason: back to back posts - merged 3 posts.
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Old 15th September 2010, 10:27   #33
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What would be the reason for that? I mean why would Jap/Korean cars benefit more as compared to the German cars?
All cars benefit. If you notice I said
"Jap-Korean cars seem to benefit more from damping than German cars"

Cars like the Octavia have thicker metal for the body panels and the body panels tend to resonate less than cars like the Corolla. While I have not compared all Jap cars to all German cars my observations are based on common models I have seen.
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Old 15th September 2010, 16:34   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by navin View Post
All cars benefit. If you notice I said
"Jap-Korean cars seem to benefit more from damping than German cars"

Cars like the Octavia have thicker metal for the body panels and the body panels tend to resonate less than cars like the Corolla. While I have not compared all Jap cars to all German cars my observations are based on common models I have seen.

Ahhh it's the build quality! Now I know. I have an other question here for you. When I started to ICE my car I said "no need of sub" Now I feel it's absence. What is the difference between a 8" and a 10" sub. Will there be a difference in how it sounds?

Thank you,
-Z
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Old 15th September 2010, 17:03   #35
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What is the difference between a 8" and a 10" sub. Will there be a difference in how it sounds?
In general a larger woofer needs a larger box but can go lower (in the bass) and produce more bass.

That said (some modern) very very large woofers 12"+ with heavy cones and big motors are designed for very low bass in relatively small boxes but do not do as good a job of integrating with the midbass as a lighter woofer with a small motor (coil).
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Old 15th September 2010, 17:09   #36
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Though I'm no where in the league of Mr. Navin to whom you have addressed your question regarding the difference between a 8" and a 10" sub-woofer. But I still draw out some courage to answer this one.

As a thumb rule - If we are looking at two sub-woofers of different sizes but of the same brand/series; the larger is most likely to outperform the smaller one. Its like comparing a Maruti 800 to a Swift. Both are Maruti products and may be able to touch a 100 kmph. However, the comfort with which a swift would be able to do this (and a little more) will not be similar to the effort that a 800 may have to put in. However other factors like the capacity of your amplifiers may minimize or maximize the difference. This however is much general.

"Size, as such cannot be the sole determining factor for ascertaining / predicting performance" (cars or otherwise). An 8" ID Sub can make some serious music as compared to a 12" Xplod. If u understand what I am saying. When comparing different size subs in different brands/series please consider:
a)the equipment list that you already have (as you must look at synchronizing the sub with the entire existing setup and not under/over cut);
b)dekhawe pe mat jao aur apni akkal lagao, only buy what pleases your ears. I might have deviated from the question, moderators may rectify an error that may have crept in inadvertently.

Last edited by .anshuman : 15th September 2010 at 21:23. Reason: Edited post to remove formatting tags. Thanks
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Old 16th September 2010, 06:11   #37
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Thank you Navin and Samridh,
I guess I need a 12" Sub and now the hunting starts! Not sure how will I zero in on the perfect sub for the speakers already installed in the car. But will try to demo a couple of them and then decide.

Cheers!
-Z
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Old 16th September 2010, 19:19   #38
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Originally Posted by Zombie69 View Post
Thank you Navin and Samridh,
I guess I need a 12" Sub and now the hunting starts! Not sure how will I zero in on the perfect sub for the speakers already installed in the car. But will try to demo a couple of them and then decide.

Cheers!
-Z
A friend of mine has got the RF 2010 brochure with the price. Let me know if you are interested
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Old 16th September 2010, 19:57   #39
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Originally Posted by Zombie69 View Post
Thank you Navin and Samridh,
I guess I need a 12" Sub and now the hunting starts! Not sure how will I zero in on the perfect sub for the speakers already installed in the car. But will try to demo a couple of them and then decide.

Cheers!
-Z
How much power can you spare to drive the sub?

There's a RF Prime 12" sub with a nominal input of 150W RMS and it comes in a selaed enclosure.
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Old 16th September 2010, 21:13   #40
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Originally Posted by Sankar View Post
How much power can you spare to drive the sub?
.
How can you check / find this out ?

I have a similar setup like zombie & hence wanted to know.
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Old 16th September 2010, 22:01   #41
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If you have a 4 channel, assuming you are using 2 channels to drive the front comps, the sub can be powered by bridging the other 2 channels. Power can be found out by looking at the amp specs, see how much it will give when bridged.
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Old 17th September 2010, 06:09   #42
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Originally Posted by Sankar View Post
If you have a 4 channel, assuming you are using 2 channels to drive the front comps, the sub can be powered by bridging the other 2 channels. Power can be found out by looking at the amp specs, see how much it will give when bridged.
I'm using an Auditor RIP-4280 and here is what given on the box.

Compatible 4 and 2 ohms by channel (no bridge mode),
High and Low level inputs - 0 +6 +12dB bass boost at 50 Hz
Adjustable low pass from 50 to 300 Hz into the rear ways 12dB/oct
Adjustable high pass from 50 to 300 Hz into front ways 12dB/oct
Max power (4 ohms) - 4 x 140 W / 4 x 70W rms
Max power (2 ohms) - 4 x 180 W / 4 x 90w rms
Max power in bridged mode (4 ohms) - 2 x 320 W max
Max Power in bridged mode ( 4 ohms) - 2 x 160 W rms

Coming back to the sub, i need a cheaper one. I have already spent 35K on my car just to ICE it (H.U, 2 front Comps, 2 rear coax, Amp and Damping). and another 5 K for other accessories like Wind tone horn and ORVM's etc.
Can't spend more and to be honest my budget is 5K including the box and wiring etc.
Could you guys suggest anything in that price range.

Cheers!
-Z

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sankar View Post
How much power can you spare to drive the sub?

There's a RF Prime 12" sub with a nominal input of 150W RMS and it comes in a selaed enclosure.
Any idea how much it might cost Sankar. I'm running very low on cash right now but I just want to complete the ICE set up in the car by adding a sub and forget about upgrading it for the next 2-3 years. Have other priorities to take care of!

Cheers!
-Z

Last edited by navin : 17th September 2010 at 09:45. Reason: back to back posts.
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Old 17th September 2010, 08:06   #43
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I don't know about the exact cost of the RF 12" Prime Sealed Enclosure, but it should be close to 10k. Hertz DBX 250 (10" in a ported box) costs around 8k (MRP). These two, rated at 150W RMS, will match with the power output of your amp which is rated at 160W RMS in bridged mode. There might be others, these two comes to mind now.

Else, get the sub driver JBL/MTX Road Thunder/Auditor and get the box built.

Btw, Zombie69 avoid making back to back posts, you can edit your previous posts upto 20mins post posting.
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Old 17th September 2010, 17:00   #44
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Originally Posted by Sankar View Post
I don't know about the exact cost of the RF 12" Prime Sealed Enclosure, but it should be close to 10k
From the catalog:
R1S412
12 Prime 4-Ohm SVC Subwoofer
Impedance : 4-Ohm
Power Handling : 300 Watts
Rs. 4,990/-

R1L-112
Single (Sealed) 12 Loaded Enclosure
Power Handling : 300 Watts
Woofer Impedance : 4-Ohm SVC
Rs.9,990/-

Alto Auditorized @ Evo-rf.jpg   <div style=
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Old 17th September 2010, 21:56   #45
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Originally Posted by quadra View Post
From the catalog:
R1S412
12 Prime 4-Ohm SVC Subwoofer
Impedance : 4-Ohm
Power Handling : 300 Watts
Rs. 4,990/-

R1L-112
Single (Sealed) 12 Loaded Enclosure
Power Handling : 300 Watts
Woofer Impedance : 4-Ohm SVC
Rs.9,990/-
Thank you Quadra! I really appreciate your effort to post the specs with pricing. But unfortunately my budget is a bit tight and I'm looking for anything below 5K for the sub and wiring. Do you know anything in this range?

Cheers!
-Z
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