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Old 23rd September 2010, 12:27   #1
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Default Kenwood kac 8405 vs Auditor rip 4280 4 channel amp

Guys, reviews needed for the above amps.
Current setup is a pioneer 5150 with all round polk db speakers.
Car in question is verna.
Can someone post their experiences please.
Since I will not be installing a sub, I would like an amp that can help me extract some degree of bass from the speakers itself.

EDIT: Please post reviews of only the above 2 amps. My budget is approx 10k including the wiring and the cost of amp. JBL gt5 has already been ruled out.

Last edited by pras.oct25 : 23rd September 2010 at 12:40.
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Old 23rd September 2010, 13:46   #2
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I'll go with Kenwood but i have no idea about the Auditor.
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Old 23rd September 2010, 14:15   #3
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abhi any reason why kenwood?

These are the specs of my speakers and the amps

Rear speakers db691 -
Power Handling (continuous) 125 w
Power Handling (peak) 300 w
Overall Frequency Response 35Hz-22kHz
Nominal Impedance 4 ohms
Efficiency 93 dB

Front comps db6501 -
Power Handling (continuous) 125 w
Power Handling (peak) 250 w
Efficiency 92 dB
Nominal Impedance 4 ohms
Overall Frequency Response 35Hz-23kHz

Specs for the amps:
Auditor:
Max power 4 Ohms : 4x140W
Max power 2 Ohms : 4x180W
Nom power 4 Ohms : 4x70W
Nom power 2 Ohms : 4x90W
Max power bridged mode 4 Ohms : 2x320W
Nom.power bridged mode 4 Ohms : 2x160W
Frequency response : 6Hz - 60kHz
Distortion : (1kHz) : 0.2%

Kenwood:
CEA-2006 Standard 60 W x 4
RMS Watts per channel @ 4 ohms, 1% THD+N
80 dBA Signal to Noise Ratio (Reference: 1 Watt into 4 ohms)
Max Power Output 720 W
Rated Power Output 14.4 V
60 W x 4 (4Ω) (20 Hz - 20 kHz, 0.08% THD)
90 W x 4 (2Ω) (1 kHz, 0.8% THD)
180 W x 2 Bridged (4Ω) (1 kHz, 0.8% THD)

Frequency Response 5-50kHz(3dB)
Input Sensitivity 0.2 V - 5.0 V (MIN-MAX)
Input Impedance 10 kΩ
Signal to Noise Ratio 95 dB
Low Pass Filter Frequency (-12 dB/oct.)
50 Hz - 200 Hz (variable) Low-Pass Filter Frequency
High Pass Filter Frequency (-12 dB/oct.)
50 Hz - 200 Hz (variable) High-Pass Frequency
Dimensions (W x H x D) 280 x 59 x 238 mm (11 x 2-5/16 x 9-3/8)

I noticed that the kenwood is pretty small. I didnt get dimension details on the auditor. Does this matter in terms of power output, or is size only a matter when it comes to fitting?
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Old 23rd September 2010, 14:24   #4
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Why kenwood ? Because i have used it and found it very nice in terms of SQ and power.
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Old 23rd September 2010, 14:29   #5
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Both Amps are not exact match for your set of speakers buddy.

If you are not going for a Sub, why do you need 4 Ch Amp ?. 2 Ch would suffice for front components. Its better not to power rear coaxials with Amp, as generally thier sensitivity is on higher side and tend to interfere with your front stage (if you dont tune your system, that is)

Get a Better 2 Ch for those 10 grands.
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Old 23rd September 2010, 14:40   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mi10 View Post
Both Amps are not exact match for your set of speakers buddy.

If you are not going for a Sub, why do you need 4 Ch Amp ?. 2 Ch would suffice for front components. Its better not to power rear coaxials with Amp, as generally thier sensitivity is on higher side and tend to interfere with your front stage (if you dont tune your system, that is)

Get a Better 2 Ch for those 10 grands.
The Polk comps are 125W RMS. He can use the bridged output from the 4 ch amp and power the front comps. Good 2 ch amps that put out 125W RMS are hard to find here. And you don't get them in the 6K range which is what his budget his I guess. The other 4K is for wiring, install etc. A 4 ch also gives the flexibility to add a sub later.
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Old 23rd September 2010, 14:58   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mi10 View Post
Both Amps are not exact match for your set of speakers buddy.

If you are not going for a Sub, why do you need 4 Ch Amp ?. 2 Ch would suffice for front components. Its better not to power rear coaxials with Amp, as generally thier sensitivity is on higher side and tend to interfere with your front stage (if you dont tune your system, that is)

Get a Better 2 Ch for those 10 grands.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilead View Post
The Polk comps are 125W RMS. He can use the bridged output from the 4 ch amp and power the front comps. Good 2 ch amps that put out 125W RMS are hard to find here. And you don't get them in the 6K range which is what his budget his I guess. The other 4K is for wiring, install etc. A 4 ch also gives the flexibility to add a sub later.
If you have heard the hertz sub thats how I like the bass to sound. Its very clean and you can feel the emphasis on the bass. I dont like it when the bass sounds very spread out, if you can understand what I mean.
If at all I ever decide to go in for a sub the 4 channel will give me flexibility. Else I"ll have to invest in a monoblock later.

I remember Satya (blueraven) telling me about a 2 channel boston amp long back. I had thought about it then but dropped the 2 channel idea. I think he quoted 5k for it.

I spoke to Saravana at power zone the other day about the 2 channel option. He immediately advised me against that because he said that if you power just the fronts with the amp the overall sound will not be uniform from both sets of speakers since the front is getting more power.
When I asked him if the speakers can be tuned to get decent bass without a sub after an amp install he said yes it can be done.
Although I did not miss the wince on his face and apprehension in his voice when I asked him if I HAVE to go in for a focal solid 4 type of amp, or if I can get good output from an amp thats within the 6 or 7k budget. Going in for the focal would mean 13 or 14k for the amp and with wiring and install I'll be shelling out 20k which is double of what I want to spend.

Last edited by pras.oct25 : 23rd September 2010 at 15:00.
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Old 23rd September 2010, 14:59   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gilead View Post
The Polk comps are 125W RMS. He can use the bridged output from the 4 ch amp and power the front comps. Good 2 ch amps that put out 125W RMS are hard to find here. And you don't get them in the 6K range which is what his budget his I guess. The other 4K is for wiring, install etc. A 4 ch also gives the flexibility to add a sub later.
Oh ok. But i hope you will also spend on damping the front doors, Else whichever amp you use, you wont feel the midbass.

EDIT: If you have not already got the Rear Coaxials, i think you should audition my Blaupunkt 10" Sub (GTw 1000). Its tighter than any of my earlier subs from JBL and GZ. For just above 4K (incl enclosure) this will be your best bang for buck woofer.

Last edited by Mi10 : 23rd September 2010 at 15:02.
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Old 23rd September 2010, 15:12   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mi10 View Post
Oh ok. But i hope you will also spend on damping the front doors, Else whichever amp you use, you wont feel the midbass.

EDIT: If you have not already got the Rear Coaxials, i think you should audition my Blaupunkt 10" Sub (GTw 1000). Its tighter than any of my earlier subs from JBL and GZ. For just above 4K (incl enclosure) this will be your best bang for buck woofer.
I used the balance noisekill from gilead's install for my front doors. But I do want to get more damping done. Vijay recommended the stuff that was used in sanjay's car, though that seemed very expensive. Would ordering more noisekill seem like a decent and economical solution to my damping problems?

I had installed the rear speakers and hu a few months back. Just got around to installing the components. Now looking out for the amp.

Yes a thorough audition of yours and sanjay's cars are pending
I havent heard vijay's extensively either. Just one or 2 songs the other day.
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Old 23rd September 2010, 15:39   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pras.oct25 View Post
He immediately advised me against that because he said that if you power just the fronts with the amp the overall sound will not be uniform from both sets of speakers since the front is getting more power.
The part about the unbalanced sound is true but it won't matter as long as only you drive the car mostly. If people sit regularly in the back, think about amplifying the rear as well. You can always use the fader to get a clear front soundstage if the rears appear to be overpowering the fronts.

You can get decent sound in 6K amps also, but obviously it won't sound as good as the 14K ones. Just like how the 14K ones won't sound as good as the 30K ones etc. Decide on the budget and stick to it. No point comparing to the ones a level above in price and SQ. The 6K amp will get you a FAR better sound than what you have now. Nothing worse than driving 125W RMS comps from a 10W RMS HU.

Quote:
Originally Posted by pras.oct25 View Post
Would ordering more noisekill seem like a decent and economical solution to my damping problems?
Minimum order for Noisekill is 30 sq ft I think, so it won't work out economical for you. Just wait for someone else (like Mi10 lol) to order and take whatever's left again.

Last edited by Gilead : 23rd September 2010 at 15:45.
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Old 23rd September 2010, 21:37   #11
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Theres a lot of constant vibration from the left front door. I dont know if the panel was not fit back in tightly. But I guess it can be taken care of.
But there is a bit of vibration from the music in spite of the layer of noisekill. Will talk to saravana sometime about the damping.
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Old 24th September 2010, 15:07   #12
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Just an update - the front comps are 100w rms and not 125 as shown in the website. The box says 100w.
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Old 28th September 2010, 16:12   #13
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May be you could post the price at which the two amps (Kenwood kac 8405 and Auditor rip 4280) have been offered to you. A cost-spercification analysis will always help
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Old 28th September 2010, 21:56   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Samridh View Post
May be you could post the price at which the two amps (Kenwood kac 8405 and Auditor rip 4280) have been offered to you. A cost-spercification analysis will always help
Price wise both are comparable. Kenwood only works out cheaper if ordered from US.
Looks like I'll be sticking to auditor.
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Old 28th September 2010, 22:20   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pras.oct25 View Post
Price wise both are comparable. Kenwood only works out cheaper if ordered from US.
Looks like I'll be sticking to auditor.
Go for RIP. You won't regret.
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