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Old 1st December 2013, 09:47   #16
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Default Re: Optimum Hyper Compound Tested

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@pedaltothefloor One question. Do you mind If I steal your car ?. Looks amazing.
You don't need to steal it, we can swap. I can use a Red Hot Figo for a change

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How do you compare Optimum compound to M105 on a Rotary, which gives longer working time and better lubricity?. Am I correct in guessing that both are SMAT ?.

That's a very nice proven technique for a good finishing, which one finishes better (M105 or Optimum) ?.
Well, I am new to machine polishing so reserving my comments on which compound is better of the two. I have used both of them only once and that too on different pads. I will post a comparison after using both the compounds on the same pad a few times. OHC dusts less than M105 but costs 3 times for the same quantity. M105 is easier to wipe off from the paint and the pads whereas as OHC was quite difficult. Let me try them both a few more times and then we can decide.


Last edited by Pedaltothefloor : 1st December 2013 at 09:52.
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Old 5th December 2013, 15:23   #17
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Default Re: DIY Detailing Journey. Starting with a rotary polisher

Hey @Pedaltothefloor, I read everywhere that a buffing pad must be primed before use. Can you please elaborate more about it?
1. What is priming and why is it required?
2. How to prime a pad?
3. Is priming required only for new pads? If a used pad is preserved in a ziplock without being cleaned, can it be used again without priming?
4. Can we prime a pad with some product and use a different product on it? Asked this because it kinda hurts to know that some quantity of product is wasted just in priming.
Thanks
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Old 5th December 2013, 16:11   #18
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Default Re: DIY Detailing Journey. Starting with a rotary polisher

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Hey @Pedaltothefloor, I read everywhere that a buffing pad must be primed before use. Can you please elaborate more about it?
1. What is priming and why is it required?
Pad priming is important to ensure sufficient lubrication. If there is too much lubricant, then the cut will be reduced because the abrasive is floating in lubricant. If there is too little lubricant, then the product will "flash" very quickly and you will need to reapply product. Priming a pad is also important to ensure that the accumulated mass of the polish is on the upper surface or face of the pad.

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2. How to prime a pad?
Take the polish that you plan to use & pour some on the pad. Then, rub it in & ensure it is absorbed into the foam. Then spread the polish onto the pad by hand until it becomes saturated. I do a big X on the pad to start with and then after the first section I use 2 Pea sized drops.

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3. Is priming required only for new pads? If a used pad is preserved in a ziplock without being cleaned, can it be used again without priming?
Always wash your pads to remove polish residue and any debris, even a simple water wash is enough for water based polishes. I spray Meg's Super Degreaser diluted to 1:4 to clean the pad and then wash them with Amway SA8 detergent.
You need to prime the pad again when you use it the next time.

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4. Can we prime a pad with some product and use a different product on it? Asked this because it kinda hurts to know that some quantity of product is wasted just in priming.
Some people use spritz of water, some use a Quick detailer; I use the polish that I will be working with. It's a personal preference and in my humble opinion, using the same polish to prime the pad works best. And do not worry about wasting the product, very little polish is required to prime the pads and polish an entire car. I have a 250 ml bottle of Dodo Juice Supernatural Micro Prime and after doing 2 hatchbacks, it is still more than half full.

Last edited by Pedaltothefloor : 5th December 2013 at 16:26. Reason: Spelling
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Old 11th December 2013, 14:04   #19
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Exclamation Re: DIY Detailing Journey. Starting with a rotary polisher

Hey Pedaltothefloor!

Just saw this car polisher being sold on Flipkart for peanuts. Do you think this is worth it? Any ideas?

Black & Decker Car Polisher

If it is, what about the polishing pads and finishing pads that can go with this? Are they even available? Let me know what you think.

Thanks & Cheers!
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Old 11th December 2013, 15:28   #20
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Default Re: DIY Detailing Journey. Starting with a rotary polisher

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Originally Posted by sourav9385 View Post
Hey Pedaltothefloor!

Just saw this car polisher being sold on Flipkart for peanuts. Do you think this is worth it? Any ideas?

Black & Decker Car Polisher

If it is, what about the polishing pads and finishing pads that can go with this? Are they even available? Let me know what you think.

Thanks & Cheers!
Not of much use as I see, except spreading some wax on a a prepped surface.
This particular 'polisher' cannot use any foam/mf pads available in the market (except maybe mf bonnets), and is restricted to a single speed (3200 RPM).

Please read this article - described in nice detail : http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-spreader.html
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Old 11th December 2013, 15:35   #21
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Default Re: DIY Detailing Journey. Starting with a rotary polisher

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Not of much use as I see, except spreading some wax on a a prepped surface.
This particular 'polisher' cannot use any foam/mf pads available in the market (except maybe mf bonnets), and is restricted to a single speed (3200 RPM).

Please read this article - described in nice detail : http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/...-spreader.html
Brilliant find there mate! Thanks!

So no point getting some dumb ol' wax spreader for peanuts. Back to good ol's elbow grease for me
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Old 11th December 2013, 19:52   #22
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Default Re: DIY Detailing Journey. Starting with a rotary polisher

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Brilliant find there mate! Thanks!

So no point getting some dumb ol' wax spreader for peanuts. Back to good ol's elbow grease for me
Get this instead http://www.varietypowertools.com/ind...-polisher.html

It's a brand owned by Bosch and also available at all Bosch stores for sale and service. Comes with a backing plate and a polishing pad, although both are quite big for a newbie but this is the cheapest rotary from a decent/reputed brand available in India at this time.
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Old 12th December 2013, 10:39   #23
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The DIY bug for detailing has got me as well Thanks to the discussion here and on other like minded forums. Just did a sample patch on my second car (tata indigo). The car was freshly painted after about 6 years of battering taken by the factory paint. Got it done from a local guy and hence the paint hood was not that hot (lots of dust inclusion) OK agreed 'get what you past for'. So contacted nirmal , keystone famed. I must say the fit is know all of car detailing plus very forthcoming and honest about what would suit me best. So he suggested a full wet sanding of the exterior. Now doing it by hand requires lots of patience and hard work, both found not so much in abundance. So this is were I started from also seen in the picture is GEX-125 1AE Random orbit sander with p1500 sanding disc.

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The progress did give me bit of a scare after the first stage. Wasn't sure I could get back to already the starting status of surface after the first stage sanding was done. Notice the absence of the tube light reflection.

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This started to look up slightly better once the p3000 grit sanding was completed but the desired end result was yet far off may be another stage or two. Notice the tube light reflection had started to reappear.

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OK the next was to use a curing compound to remove the sanding marks from 3000 grit process. Skil rotary buffer with woollen pads and medium abrasive compound were used for this stage. Sorry cannot name the compound here and subsequently the polish as both were bought lose from keystone on recommendation by Nirmal himself. Both worked fine. So the weapons of restoration and their effects were as follows:

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After buffing

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Then was a polishing job with a professional grade polish and a polishing foam pad both again from keystone.


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The results were so encouraging that I forgot to click pic after the polish never mind as the next stage was to seal it with a kiss err wax.. So that was accomplished with the ULW the spray on and wipe off type. The end result is here to see and hopefully stay as well..

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It took me upwards of two hours or so but given my newbie status I think that's fine. The rest of the car would under go the same treatment during this weekend. Updates early next week.
Regards
Satish

Last edited by Rehaan : 12th December 2013 at 16:30. Reason: Removing duplicate pictures that are due to a mobile app bug. Thanks.
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Old 17th December 2013, 12:32   #24
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Finished the job this weekend and as promised the final outcome with a pic.

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Keep it shining
Satish
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Old 6th July 2014, 23:09   #25
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Default Re: DIY Detailing Journey. Starting with a rotary polisher

@Pedaltothefloor, this is a very informative article for any newbie detailing enthusiast. Where did you pick up your DeWalt Polisher from? Do they ship to Trivandrum?
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Old 10th October 2014, 08:12   #26
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Default Re: Second attempt with the rotary

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The roof was crying for a cleanup after standing in the rains for 4 days gathering dust, bird droppings and what not. Some of the bird droppings had baked in and etched into the clear coat as I did not have time to deal with them for over 4 days. Washed with my favorite Duragloss Rinseless Wash, clayed with Ultima Elastrofoam, compounded with Meguair's 105 on a Scholl Orange Polishing pad and sealed with Duragloss 105 sealant plus Duragloss 601 polish bonding agent. An IPA wipe down was done after compounding. Surprisingly, the Scholl pad allowed good cutting but finished well in a single step. It is a closed cell structure unlike CG Hex pads that are open cell structure. The hood also got another coat of the sealant so now both the hood and the roof have 2 coats of DG 105.
Sorry, no "Before" pictures this time as I just couldn't stand how the roof looked.
Hi, I will be experimenting with Meguair 105 tomorrow on heavily swirled paint of my Tata Nano. Could you tell me how many passes of 105 are sufficient? I would be using 1500 Speed constant unlike Zenith method.
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Old 13th October 2014, 13:59   #27
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Default Re: Second attempt with the rotary

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Hi, I will be experimenting with Meguair 105 tomorrow on heavily swirled paint of my Tata Nano. Could you tell me how many passes of 105 are sufficient? I would be using 1500 Speed constant unlike Zenith method.
What pad are you using? The paint you are working on is soft and thin so i would suggest do a small spot first and do not use a very aggressive pad. M105 is already aggressive in the cut you are getting plus you are using a rotary. Why not do a slow pass with 1200 RPM and see what you get as a result first?
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Old 13th October 2014, 15:12   #28
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What pad are you using? The paint you are working on is soft and thin so i would suggest do a small spot first and do not use a very aggressive pad. M105 is already aggressive in the cut you are getting plus you are using a rotary. Why not do a slow pass with 1200 RPM and see what you get as a result first?
Thanks for reply. I did the detailing session on saturday. I used lake country white cutting pad with 105 and black finishing with 205. The results with 105 were impressive but being a first timer I didnot tried much. Still 105 and 205 produced very good results for me. Most of the light scratches are gone now. I need tips on using 105 it dried on 1st pass at 1000 rpm and at 2nd pass it dusted. It was hard to remove 105 after doing 2 passes it was stuck to paint badly. Luckily no holograms and swirl marks due to use of 205 after m105.
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Old 13th October 2014, 15:17   #29
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Default Re: DIY Detailing Journey. Starting with a rotary polisher

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Thanks for reply. I did the detailing session on saturday. I used lake country white cutting pad with 105 and black finishing with 205. The results with 105 were impressive but being a first timer I didnot tried much. Still 105 and 205 produced very good results for me. Most of the light scratches are gone now. I need tips on using 105 it dried on 1st pass at 1000 rpm and at 2nd pass it dusted. It was hard to remove 105 after doing 2 passes it was stuck to paint badly. Luckily no holograms and swirl marks due to use of 205 after m105.
1. White pad is a polishing pad, not cutting so you were ok to use M105
2. M105 needs priming with water, these are SMAT polishes and will "disppear" fast but the particles have not broken down hence can be agitated back with a water spray. That also avoid dusting
3. It will stick to soft paints, that is ok if you are doing a finishing with M205.
Whatever is stuck can be removed with products like IPA, eraser etc but if not water spray and try to remove with a plush MF.
What is left, just run the finishing round and all will go.
BTW out of curiosity M205 is a hard to find product, where did you get it from?
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Old 13th October 2014, 15:51   #30
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I had a chart of lake country pads which lists the pads cutting/polishing strengths. From their I learned that white is a cutting pad. Its cutting action is just below the orange pad. How much water should I use to reinitiate 105? And how long should I continue to polish after that. Ideally how many passes?
I bought m105 and 205 at a online indian website. I will post the details.

Last edited by mercedised : 13th October 2014 at 15:52.
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