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Old 29th June 2008, 09:31   #16
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thanks dadu for the link. this is good information.
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Old 29th June 2008, 12:20   #17
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As far as I understand, these will be the only drawbacks.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AbhiJ View Post
Problems which were immediately noticeable are
1) Black Smoke
2) Lower FE
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Old 29th June 2008, 14:05   #18
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Update!

Zorrik did nothing overnight. I was about to give up but my dad came to see what I was up to and gave me an idea to use [b]ACID to clean it!

His logic was simple, its risky, but you have nothing to loose.

Sure enough, I used HCl (Bathroom Acid) and diluted it 1:1 with water. I pumped in 10 ml of the diluted acid into the valve, and immediately the reaction started! Both ends of the valve started to foam .. I immediately pumped water from one end and out came from the other end.. huge pieces of carbon/dirt! They were pretty big, almost 1 mm in dia!

I rinsed and repeated the process, and a lot of dirt came out.

I re rinsed it with soap water and then checked the valve... It was closed!! Air did not pass through!!

I installed the part back into the car, and so far the result is good! There is no black smoke anymore!!!

Now to tank up the car and check the F.E.

WARNING: For anyone who decides to try what I just did. Be very careful working with Acid and even Kerosene. I have proper safety equipment for my eyes and hands since I work with chemicals everyday.

Acid fumes are really bad if you breathe then in, or if they go in your eyes.

Last edited by Rehaan : 30th June 2008 at 03:38. Reason: Posts merged on request.
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Old 29th June 2008, 18:16   #19
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Good to know that the valve started working. I was sure that Zorrik wont work since we were talking of deposits and Zorrik is an enhanced lubricant to loosen up the jams/ rust. But do give a thorough check to the valve for damage due to the acid action.

But whoever wants to use this method, I would suggest using Easy-off-bang as its a mild acid and dirt dissolver.

Quote:
Originally Posted by AbhiJ View Post
Warning: For anyone who decides to try what I just did. Be very careful working with Acid and even Kerosene. I have proper safety equipment for my eyes and hands since I work with chemicals everyday.

Acid fumes are really bad if you breathe then in, or if they go in your eyes.

Sorry Mods: Tried to edit the the post above but got an error
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Old 30th June 2008, 00:57   #20
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Some decarb info especially for diesels : -

Tata Motors Customer Care :: Decarbonising & Engine Flush

I suggest OWS 360.
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Old 30th June 2008, 01:14   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbhiJ View Post
Update!

Zorrik did nothing overnight. I was about to give up but my dad came to see what I was up to and gave me an idea to use [b]ACID to clean it!

His logic was simple, its risky, but you have nothing to loose.

Sure enough, I used HCl (Bathroom Acid) and diluted it 1:1 with water. I pumped in 10 ml of the diluted acid into the valve, and immediately the reaction started! Both ends of the valve started to foam .. I immediately pumped water from one end and out came from the other end.. huge pieces of carbon/dirt! They were pretty big, almost 1 mm in dia!

I rinsed and repeated the process, and a lot of dirt came out.

I re rinsed it with soap water and then checked the valve... It was closed!! Air did not pass through!!

I installed the part back into the car, and so far the result is good! There is no black smoke anymore!!!

Now to tank up the car and check the F.E.
Quote:
Originally Posted by AbhiJ View Post
Warning: For anyone who decides to try what I just did. Be very careful working with Acid and even Kerosene. I have proper safety equipment for my eyes and hands since I work with chemicals everyday.

Acid fumes are really bad if you breathe then in, or if they go in your eyes.

Sorry Mods: Tried to edit the the post above but got an error
Quote:
Originally Posted by dadu View Post
Good to know that the valve started working. I was sure that Zorrik wont work since we were talking of deposits and Zorrik is an enhanced lubricant to loosen up the jams/ rust. But do give a thorough check to the valve for damage due to the acid action.

But whoever wants to use this method, I would suggest using Easy-off-bang as its a mild acid and dirt dissolver.

great info and a bold step to try out man, you had 17 grand on stake for the same, well this will surely help us all in the future thank you.

if you can please try and post the pictures. It will help us understand better. thank you once again mate.


daduji i will keep that in mind in case i need to do this.

Last edited by rider60 : 30th June 2008 at 01:17.
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Old 30th June 2008, 03:41   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbhiJ View Post
Zorrik did nothing overnight. I was about to give up ....

Awesome stuff AbhiJ !

I was going to suggest that you give the solenoid a few good "taps" at this stage, since that might have freed up the valve that was jammed with the carbon/dirt deposits.

I have edited your thread title with the mention of DIY

cya
R
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Old 30th June 2008, 19:03   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rider60 View Post
great info and a bold step to try out man, you had 17 grand on stake for the same, well this will surely help us all in the future thank you.

if you can please try and post the pictures. It will help us understand better. thank you once again mate.


daduji i will keep that in mind in case i need to do this.
Thanks rider. Actually I had nothing on stake since I had nothing to loose.

I ll post the high res picures tomorrow which I took of the circuit...

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rehaan View Post
Awesome stuff AbhiJ !

I was going to suggest that you give the solenoid a few good "taps" at this stage, since that might have freed up the valve that was jammed with the carbon/dirt deposits.

I have edited your thread title with the mention of DIY

cya
R
Thank you Rehaan.

But I wont call it "fixed" yet. I ll only know for sure once I find out if the F.E. is back to normal

Btw.. I personally feel this part is GROSSLY overpriced by Hyundai!! Rs. 8000 for a 12 V Solenoid Valve doesn't seem fair.
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Old 1st July 2008, 17:56   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbhiJ View Post
Thanks rider. Actually I had nothing on stake since I had nothing to loose.

I ll post the high res picures tomorrow which I took of the circuit...

But I wont call it "fixed" yet. I ll only know for sure once I find out if the F.E. is back to normal

Btw.. I personally feel this part is GROSSLY overpriced by Hyundai!! Rs. 8000 for a 12 V Solenoid Valve doesn't seem fair.
Well, awaiting your FE results..and the pictures, my friend!
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Old 1st July 2008, 19:30   #25
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Photos, as demanded & promised
Accent Viva Crdi: Purge Control Solenoid Valves - Rs.16.5k! EDIT: Fixin it DIY style!-circuit.jpg

Accent Viva Crdi: Purge Control Solenoid Valves - Rs.16.5k! EDIT: Fixin it DIY style!-installed.jpg

Accent Viva Crdi: Purge Control Solenoid Valves - Rs.16.5k! EDIT: Fixin it DIY style!-uninstalled.jpg
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Old 4th July 2008, 23:16   #26
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Sad Update:
I guess all my work didn't ..work.

My brakes were not working properly and they had become extremely hard. The car was sent to the A.s.s. on Tuesday. They tried the following:

1) Through Cleaning
2) Replacing Master Cylinder
3) Replacing Brake Booster

And none of the above worked! The problem persisted.

As a last ditch effort the chief service advisor tried and changed the Purge Control Valve and the brake problem disappeared... (we borrowed the part from another car for 20 mins)

Apparently, in a CRDi, the PCSVs control the servo assist in braking!!

The dealership dont have this part in stock and I am waiting for it.

Time to shell out the cash
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Old 4th July 2008, 23:50   #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AbhiJ View Post
Sad Update:
I guess all my work didn't ..work.

My brakes were not working properly and they had become extremely hard. The car was sent to the A.s.s. on Tuesday. They tried the following:

1) Through Cleaning
2) Replacing Master Cylinder
3) Replacing Brake Booster

And none of the above worked! The problem persisted.

As a last ditch effort the chief service advisor tried and changed the Purge Control Valve and the brake problem disappeared... (we borrowed the part from another car for 20 mins)

Apparently, in a CRDi, the PCSVs control the servo assist in braking!!

The dealership dont have this part in stock and I am waiting for it.

Time to shell out the cash


man at last you had to shell out all that amount! i am just too disappointed at the fact that all that effort gone into the cleaning just failed!

well any way did you have to pay to get the master cylinder and the brake booster replace or was it later taken back after the real problem was rectified?
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Old 5th July 2008, 09:26   #28
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I am yet to shell out the cash. The Service Centre has ordered the part and expecting it in the next week.

No, I did not pay for the master cylinder and brake booster. The garage replaced the parts from their stock and took them back when they found the replacement did not solve the problem.

The car was with them for 2 days but I was charged for labour for cleaning + Rs. 131 for the brake oil they had to use while replacing the parts.

Last edited by AbhiJ : 5th July 2008 at 09:27.
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Old 5th July 2008, 09:31   #29
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Do you need to replace both the valves or only the one that is stuck?
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Old 5th July 2008, 09:45   #30
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Hi,

I am not an expert on the Hyndai diesel motor, nor have I ever looked under the hood of one.

But it sure looks like that setup is part of an Exhaust Gas Recirculation system. I would try and see if it was possible to plug the vacuum line going down to the round disc shaped vacuum diaphram. This would keep the EGR valve closed at all times, and give you more power.

Those solenoids are electrically controlled valves that allow the vacuum circuit to pull vacuum on the EGR valve. If they are stuck open you will be getting exhaust gas recirculation at all times, which will lower power. But rather than trying to repair it, I would see if it is possible to push it shut permanently. Then pull the vacuum line going to the EGR valve, and you will have more power and not spend any money.

Good luck,

Gaurav
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