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Old 22nd May 2009, 17:40   #196
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Red LED's require the least voltage, so you can try them
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Old 22nd May 2009, 17:44   #197
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Thanks, will do that and see.
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Old 23rd May 2009, 02:44   #198
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Thanks, will do that and see.
If you don't need continuous glow, there's a small circuit which can flash a red LED for almost one year on a single Battery.
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Old 23rd May 2009, 16:17   #199
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If you don't need continuous glow, there's a small circuit which can flash a red LED for almost one year on a single Battery.
Today I bought a button type 3v battery and some red LEDs and a toggling switch. The LED didn't not glow on single 1.2V AAA battery but it glows on 2 AAA batteries and the brightness was more, and the white LED brightness was dull with 2 AAA batteries.

Three years back I got a LED bulb which looks like a normal zero watts bulb but it has 3 LEDs. Instead of using a transformer it seems they have used only capacitors & resistors to bring down the voltage.

Till now my SX4 cabin light is working without any problem, after a month I am planning to replace it with 30 LEDs with 100 ohms.
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Old 25th May 2009, 01:33   #200
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Default How about adding a zener diode?

Hey , this is really cool.

One of the points of worry are the voltage fluctuation of 2.4 V between not-running and running car.


Power supply : Supply 9VDC no transformer

If we omit the diode and capacitor assembly on the left side to convert AC to DC ... technically all you need a zener placed across positive and negative terminals as a crude regulator.

So ... How about adding a 12V zener diode between the positive and negative terminals to regulate the voltage to 12 V even if car is running and supplying 14.4 V ? If it works, we should be able to go ahead with 100 Ohm resistor very safely.

How much current will be consumed by each strip (3 LED + 1 resistor combination) ? There is another post
Circuit Power Supply Regulator 5V,6V,9V,12V 1A By IC 7805,7806,7809,7812 with PCB ... So using 7812 + 1 capacitor will give regulated 12V DC 1A supply ... what say ?

Last edited by i_own_xeta_glx : 25th May 2009 at 01:43. Reason: Added reference to 7812
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Old 25th May 2009, 17:19   #201
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actually LED's can tolerate a fair amount of abuse , current wise, but , yes, if you plan to run them for longer periods, use a higher value resistor ( as you have posted elsewhere)

using a zener might increase power consumption
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Old 26th May 2009, 04:08   #202
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenhorn View Post
actually LED's can tolerate a fair amount of abuse , current wise, but , yes, if you plan to run them for longer periods, use a higher value resistor ( as you have posted elsewhere)

using a zener might increase power consumption
I agree, Have you noticed since how many years you've been watching the LED on Television, stabilizer, AC Panel, and more, They live decades only because a higher value resistor is used, this minimizes the chances of getting a L.E.D. Burned quickly.

Using a higher value Resistor will certainly prolong the L.E.D. life-cycle.
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Old 3rd July 2009, 16:35   #203
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I just realized that the LEDs i had installed for my cabin lights have fused. Not the entire setup, but one branch housing three blue LEDs. I am yet to investigate if its a loose connection, or if the resistor burnt out.
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Old 3rd July 2009, 17:02   #204
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My bet is on a dead LED. Try shorting the base of the terminals of each of the LED's together. When you short the terminals of the dead one , the rest should light up.

At least this has been the case with all failures in my case
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Old 3rd July 2009, 18:22   #205
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenhorn View Post
My bet is on a dead LED. Try shorting the base of the terminals of each of the LED's together. When you short the terminals of the dead one , the rest should light up.

At least this has been the case with all failures in my case
Good way to check! Normally LEDs open the circuit when failed. Please use some 22 ohm resistor instead of shorting directly to protect the survived LEDs.
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Old 3rd July 2009, 18:34   #206
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There is a resistor in series anyway, so the current wont be much higher with one LED shorted. if you have your engine off, then the current will be about the same as what flows through the engine on.

Plus I'm too lazy and this mode of testing can be done without removing the LED's. Inserting a screwdriver tip is far easier than the two legs of a resistor, and trying to make contact

Last edited by greenhorn : 3rd July 2009 at 18:36.
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Old 4th July 2009, 14:12   #207
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Default LED glow problem.

Hi guys,
I tried my bit to do a DIY job for my interior light in my WagonR LXi(new model). I connected a 3 numbers of 10mm LEDs in parallel and connected 3 numbers of 470 ohm resistors in series to each of these LEDs on a PCB. But, these lights are glowing very low(Ex: Like a Mobile screen light ). I can see the lights glowing but no where near to stock light,say about 10% of stock light. what may be the problem?
Another Q, how is determine the +ve and -ve terminal to connect back these LEDs.

Please help!

Thanks,
Ramki
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Old 4th July 2009, 14:39   #208
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can you post a photo/diagram of your existing setup?
and what voltage are you using to run them?
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Old 4th July 2009, 22:13   #209
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Quote:
Originally Posted by greenhorn View Post
can you post a photo/diagram of your existing setup?
and what voltage are you using to run them?
Please find the PCB pics attached. The red wire connected is the +ve terminal and thin wire hanging out on the opposite side of red wire is -ve terminal.

PS: The soldering is better left unnoticed
Thanks,
Ramki
Attached Images
  

Last edited by ramki067 : 4th July 2009 at 22:17.
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Old 4th July 2009, 22:20   #210
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the voltage too
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I just make sure that all LED's are connected the same way when soldering, judging by the flat side and the longer legs. when you connect it, it will work one way or the other!
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