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Old 11th May 2010, 00:11   #181
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Got the rear parcel tray from Mandovi, Yashwanthpur.
Part number 99000M99741
Cost me Rs.1390/-
Also got 2 useless stands for the new Altos.
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Old 29th June 2010, 14:49   #182
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A Step-by-step DiY procedure for Remote Boot Release Installation on Maruti Alto
Did a Remote Boot release DiY successfully recently on my June 2009 Alto LXi. The information in this thread was immensely helpful. Thought of consolidating the experiences of various enthusiasts in one place and presenting a fairly professional DiY procedure so that anyone can implement it in an efficient manner. And you don’t have to cut the carpet or damage any part of the car. The approximate time required for completing the job is 2 hours ( I had to spend another 30 minutes to file off the burrs in the lever of back door latch since the movement was not smooth).

Parts required:
Essential (Picture-A):
Sl.No. Part No. Name Qty Price Rs.
1. 82650 M79 G00 Striker, Back door Latch 1 No. 34.95
2. 83310 M76 G50 Lever, Fuel Lid Opener 1 No. 47.20
3. 83350 M79 G20 Cable, Back door opener 1 No. 98.92
Total 181.07

Good to have:
1. 75411 M76 G00 Clamp, Cable 3 Nos
2. 09137 (8 x 18) Screw 2 Nos. (spare in case of damage to the screws while removing)
3. 09409 M07308 Clip (Gray) 3 Nos. ”

Sources in Bangalore:
NEMA Auto Spares, No. 8 Hosur Bypass Road, Vijinapura, Dooravaninagar- Near Ramamurthynagar Police Station. Their main office is on Magadi Road
Essarr Automotives, No. 19/1-2, Siddiah Road, Bangalore – 560002, Opposite Urvashi Theatre.

Tools required:
See Picture B. Few spares are also shown. As many have expressed, removing the two screws holding the striker is the most difficult part. If you have a 1/4 ” or 6.5 mm socket with rachet handle, you can buy a Phillips screw driver bit and use it for removing the screws. Otherwise, take help from a garage.

Preparatory work: The Photograph numbers correspond to the steps as applicable.
  1. Remove the floor mats near Driver’s seat and passenger’s seat behind.
  2. Remove two star screws from the ‘Box Floor Console - Front’ and loosen (but not remove) the cover.
  3. Remove one number star screw from the ‘Box Floor Console – Rear’ and loosen (but not remove) the cover to facilitate removal of driver’s seat.
  4. Unscrew the 4 bolts with a 14 mm or 9/16” socket and remove the driver’s seat.
  5. Remove the ‘Trim Dash RH’ by prising out two gray clips.
  6. Remove the ‘Scuff Side Sill – Front’ on driver’s side by carefully lifting with a screwdriver as otherwise, the plastic prongs may break.
  7. Remove the clip holding the carpet to the sill on the right of driver’s seat.
  8. Remove the clip of the electrical harness to the right of the driver’s seat.
  9. Remove the plastic cap holding the carpet to the right of the accelerator pedal by pulling the knob.
  10. Remove the black plastic cover below the steering column by prising it out with a screwdriver.
  11. With above actions, the carpet in the driver’s bay can be lifted from the right front corner. Carefully lift the carpet pushing the ‘Lever fuel lid opener’ thru the cutout in the carpet.
  12. Now, the fuel lid opener lever attachment can be clearly seen along with its cable going to the rear bay through a cutout in the hump separating the front and rear bays.
  13. Remove the rear passenger seat by pulling up the lever on LH and RH side.
  14. Remove the ‘Scuff Side Sill – Rear’ on the right side by prising out three plastic clamps.
  15. Remove the clip holding the carpet at the middle of the rear seat pan.
  16. Lift the carpet in the RH rear bay. The cable of the fuel lid opener can be seen going towards the left of the car.
  17. Remove clip holding the felt trim behind the rear seat on RH side and separate from the chassis by opening the Velcro at two places.
  18. Remove the tail end member trim by prising out 4 clips on top and 2 clips in front of the trim.
  19. Mark the position of the hook on the hood latch so that alignment will be easier later.
  20. Remove the ‘Striker, Back Door Latch’ by removing the two countersunk Phillips screws (the toughest part )
The removed interior parts are shown in the Picture C.

Installation:
21. Remove the fuel tank opening lever by removing one no. star screw.
22. Disconnect the cable from the lever.
23. Connect the fuel lid cable to the new twin lever at the corresponding lever and press the grooved plastic end of the outer sheath into the appropriate slot.
24. Repeat the above with the hood release cable. Ensure that the cylindrical end of the cable is connected to the lever.
25. Pass the rear hood cable thru the cutout along the side of the fuel lid cable and bring it to the rear passenger bay.
26. Pass the hood release cable around the rear seat.
27. Route the cable to the boot around the rear right corner.
28. Take out the cable through the tail end member cutout. (The old striker is still seen in this photograph since I removed it after routing the cable).
29. Connect the composite lever to the car frame ensuring that the projection on the lever base fits into the rectangular slot on the body and tighten the star screw.
30. Connect the ball end of the cable to the lever on the hood latch and press the grooved plastic outer sleeve into the slot provided.
31. Install the hood latch using the two countersunk screws. The release lever may have to be pressed against the spring force to facilitate the insertion of the latch into the cutout on the frame. The hood release cable can be left free during these operations.
32. Align the hook against the previously made mark and tighten the screws.
33. Check for proper locking of the rear hatch and open with the key initially. Adjust position of the latch for smooth closing and opening.
34. Once this is ensured, check opening of the hood with the operation of the hatch opener lever. Normally, it should work.
35. Route neatly and tie down the rear door opener cable at intervals to the electrical harness using ty-wraps.
36. If 75411 M76 G00 Clamps are available, the cable can be routed like the fuel lid cable shown in pic.
37. Install back the other removed items in the reverse order.

It can be seen that there is no need to cut the carpet.
Attached Thumbnails
Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg 13-altoboot_a.jpg  

Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg 13-altoboot_b.jpg  

Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg 13-altoboot_comp_1.jpg  

Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg 13-altoboot_comp_2.jpg  

Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg 13-altoboot_comp_3.jpg  

Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg 13-altoboot_c.jpg  

Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg 13-altoboot_comp_4.jpg  

Attached Images
 
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Old 29th June 2010, 19:45   #183
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Excellent article. I got the parts some time back, but just did not have the time to do it. Your article would help me quite a bit.
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Old 29th June 2010, 20:23   #184
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@Fusspot - For a first post - that was truly EPIC ! Really superb. I'm thinking of doing this on my WagonR.
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Old 29th June 2010, 20:31   #185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brix View Post
@Fusspot - For a first post - that was truly EPIC ! Really superb. I'm thinking of doing this on my WagonR.
For a WagonR (Type 2) the steps involved are almost similar except for a few. I have done it as a DIY and it was a success!!

1.The DIY gets a little difficult in making/bending the rod that connects the Lock assy to the latch below and still ensure that the push button function to open the boot is retained (remember that the new WagonR's boot opens with a twist in the key whereas the old ones the operation is unlock and then press the button)

2. The metal on the body needs to be cut in order accomodate the striker assembly.

For more information, here is my DIY link on T-bhp.

Hope this helps:

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...t-release.html (WagonR (2006 and before) gets a Remote Boot Release)
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Old 29th June 2010, 22:11   #186
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Brix View Post
@Fusspot - For a first post - that was truly EPIC ! Really superb. I'm thinking of doing this on my WagonR.
Thanks Brix and deep_bang.
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Old 29th June 2010, 23:34   #187
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Now thats the best post of this thread. Thanks for sharing the information in minutest detail Fusspot. Its surely a practical DIY. Though i am a bit of DIY person but i am hoping to get this work done at MASS as the one major reason for this is the rattling problem in Alto. Once it starts then there is no end to it. I am sure that the MASS guys will be having the correct tools for the job.

Last edited by Technocrat : 8th July 2010 at 18:39. Reason: Please avoid quoating an entire long post specially if it on same page, thanks
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Old 30th June 2010, 22:36   #188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by samsag12 View Post
Now thats the best post of this thread. Thanks for sharing the information in minutest detail Fusspot. Its surely a practical DIY. Though i am a bit of DIY person but i am hoping to get this work done at MASS as the one major reason for this is the rattling problem in Alto. Once it starts then there is no end to it. I am sure that the MASS guys will be having the correct tools for the job.
Thanks samsag12. Part of the fun is in doing it yourself. When I asked Bimal Auto, their mechanics told that it is not possible to fit the system on Alto. During the next servicing, I showed them the operation of the lock release and their supervisor wanted me to fit one for his car
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Old 3rd July 2010, 20:18   #189
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Bought all the stuff from Mondovi, Yashwantpur. Will let you guys know how things go.
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Old 5th July 2010, 00:49   #190
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ok got stuck. tried removing the striker phillips screws first. broke 2 screw drivers. Screw heads are damaged now. abandoned it.
next I tried removing the frint seat. 2 bolts came off easily. front left one refused to budge. rear right one broke my spanner.
Went shopping for more tools. All shops were closed for sunday.
PS-also broke the driver side scuff side sill.
Bandh tomorrow. Abandoning the project for now.
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Old 5th July 2010, 12:20   #191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildsdi5530 View Post
ok got stuck. tried removing the striker phillips screws first. broke 2 screw drivers. Screw heads are damaged now. abandoned it.
next I tried removing the frint seat. 2 bolts came off easily. front left one refused to budge. rear right one broke my spanner.
Went shopping for more tools. All shops were closed for sunday.
PS-also broke the driver side scuff side sill.
Bandh tomorrow. Abandoning the project for now.
Too bad wilddi5530 ! As many had expressed, removing the two screws of the striker is the toughest part. Ordinary screwdrivers won't do. As for the seat, I am surprised that you broke the spanner. With a good box spanner, it should have been easy. For obstinate bolts, a liberal spray of WD 40 helps. I think, now you have to necessarily go to the garage.
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Old 5th July 2010, 14:55   #192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wildsdi5530 View Post
ok got stuck. tried removing the striker phillips screws first. broke 2 screw drivers. Screw heads are damaged now. abandoned it.
next I tried removing the frint seat. 2 bolts came off easily. front left one refused to budge. rear right one broke my spanner.
Went shopping for more tools. All shops were closed for sunday.
PS-also broke the driver side scuff side sill.
Bandh tomorrow. Abandoning the project for now.
Get a bigger screw driver, Hold its handle perpendicularly with a Pipe wrench and apply enough torque with hands and you'll see them loosening.

This is how I managed to remove the striker assy in my Wagon R.

I tried the same and it was easy to fix them back as well.

It would be super difficult to use bare hands and try twisting the screw driver no matter how big it is. The Mass guys hammer over the handle of the screw driver a bit and it becomes loose (A typical method).
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Old 5th July 2010, 16:44   #193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sabret00the View Post
Took my car for servicing to MASS this morning. I had earlier spoken the Service Engineer who takes care of my car. He was a little hesitant but when I explained it to him that he doesnt need to modify anything since it's a direct fit from the ALTO VX. So he got hold of an enterprising mechanic who was more enthusiastic than me to get the Boot Release thing done. There are basically 3 things required. The new switch with 2 levers which replaces the existing one with 1 lever. The cable which connects the lock with the switch. And a new lock which has a hinge on it to hold the cable onto it. Took the mechanic barely 15-20 minutes to do the entire fitting. IMHO one doesnt even need to go to a mechanic or to MASS. Dedicate a Sunday morning to it and post a new DIY thread .
I'm posting poor quality cellphone pics for the time being. I'll post high resolution day time pics and the part number of the spares required for the entire job.

NOTE: No modifications were required. The 3 parts from the ALTO VX I mentioned above are direct fit onto the new ALTO Lxi.
Is it possible to do same boot lid opening modification with my Maruti 800cc 5 speed 2002 model it has got two levers near driver seat bottom and only fuel lid one can be used since it is the only one connected with a control cable. while boot lid lever is not connected with any cable.
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Old 8th July 2010, 18:00   #194
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Default Did this in 2004 to alto lxi

Hi guys I put the rear boot opener and parcel tray to my alto lxi way back in 04 from the parts of the vxi. Now forthe past 6 years the supermarket guys are surprised when i open my boot lid from inside the car.
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Old 8th July 2010, 18:10   #195
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Wow, at Rs 181, this is a very nice to thing to have in the LXis. I wonder why Maruti didn't provide such features in these cars in the first place. At less than 200 Rs, it is not a major impact on the manufacturing cost right?

It seems Maruti just want to deprive LXi custimers off with such useful features, just for the sadistic pleasure
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