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Old 28th July 2011, 15:44   #211
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Default Re: Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg

Bimal Auto in Mahadevapura, Bangalore sells this feature as an accessory in their so called 'limited edition' models and they will do it for your car for a price as steep as Rs.950/-. What a bummer!
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Old 14th September 2011, 18:06   #212
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Default Re: Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg

Finally managed to get hold of all the necessary parts last week. Did the routing of cable and installation of lever in 10 min. but the striker plate screws are very hard to unscrew. Will get it loosened at a local garage and install the striker, hopefully in the next few days.
I am really thankful to this thread for listing out such a useful DIY.

Cost of parts:
Lever: Rs 75
cable : Rs. 99
Striker: Rs. 35
Attached Thumbnails
Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg 13-image1073.jpg  

Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg 13-image1074.jpg  

Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg 13-image1075.jpg  

Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg 13-image1078.jpg  

Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg 13-image1079.jpg  


Last edited by samsag12 : 14th September 2011 at 18:10.
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Old 3rd June 2012, 16:40   #213
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Default Re: Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg

Wonder why there's been no activity on this thread for so long! Just wanted to thank fusspot and let everybody know I did this with my 2008 Alto Lxi today and the results were great. I no longer have to shut off the engine, climb out (with my weight and frame, that's what it feels like) and open the boot. There are a few points I'd like to mention though:

1. I was less than happy about way I routed the cable - directly on the floor along with the fuel lid opener cable and then under the left scuff plates, carpet and finally under the frame to the striker. There simply were not enough places to fasten the cable - but I did notice that even the fuel lid cable was simply 'on' the floor and the only thing holding it in place was the carpet itself. If the experts have done better, could they please share their knowledge.

2. The thing did not work right away after assembly. On examination, I found that the though the striker component moved when the lever was operated, it did not actually depress the unlocking catch on the tailgate fully. Had to bend it outward slightly to get it to work - not very cool. I doubt whether I could have botched up when I fitted the striker - there really does not seem to be too much room to mess up here.

3. Lastly, I noticed that in the fully closed and locked position, the tailgate moves a bit when I apply force. Is this normal? In the few kms of driving I've done since, I did not notice any rattle. I really do not remember whether this small movement existed before I changed the striker.

PS: I'm not very mech terminology savvy so I just described various parts as best I could. Hopefully, experts and other readers will understand the references based on context.
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Old 3rd June 2012, 19:42   #214
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Default Re: Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg

Quote:
Originally Posted by isiv View Post
Wonder why there's been no activity on this thread for so long! Just wanted to thank fusspot and let everybody know I did this with my 2008 Alto Lxi today and the results were great. I no longer have to shut off the engine, climb out (with my weight and frame, that's what it feels like) and open the boot. There are a few points I'd like to mention though:

1. I was less than happy about way I routed the cable - directly on the floor along with the fuel lid opener cable and then under the left scuff plates, carpet and finally under the frame to the striker. There simply were not enough places to fasten the cable - but I did notice that even the fuel lid cable was simply 'on' the floor and the only thing holding it in place was the carpet itself. If the experts have done better, could they please share their knowledge.

2. The thing did not work right away after assembly. On examination, I found that the though the striker component moved when the lever was operated, it did not actually depress the unlocking catch on the tailgate fully. Had to bend it outward slightly to get it to work - not very cool. I doubt whether I could have botched up when I fitted the striker - there really does not seem to be too much room to mess up here.

3. Lastly, I noticed that in the fully closed and locked position, the tailgate moves a bit when I apply force. Is this normal? In the few kms of driving I've done since, I did not notice any rattle. I really do not remember whether this small movement existed before I changed the striker.

PS: I'm not very mech terminology savvy so I just described various parts as best I could. Hopefully, experts and other readers will understand the references based on context.
Though i am no expert, still will try my best to answer your queries as I too went through this phase.

1. Its like that way, both the cables pass through the frame and lie under the carpet. Even the fuel cap one is that way. I guess its very difficult to do anything in this regard without removing the carpet. So let it be that way only till someone guides us through a better option.

2. First of all you should have marked the position of the old striker as there's some adjustment gap provided in the frame. Once this is lost then issues like this crop up. Not a big problem though as you can adjust the striker by loosening the 2 screws and moving the striker to a suitable position. No need to bend anything. One problem you might face while following this method is that you will have to re-bend the striker part to its original position which was bent previously by you. The original design of MGP is a direct fit and i have experienced it first hand.

3. The door may have come loose because of the excess clearance between the door( latch) and the striker. Just loosen the 2 screws and move the striker a little bit inward and tighten it. This will solve the problem of excess play on hatch door.
Please do not ignore this thing else it will be a nightmare especially in the rainy season. Hope you got it.
Now the other thing can be the adjustment rubbers fitted on both sides on the inner part of hatch door frame. They can be adjusted as per the need, they can be screwed/unscrewed, but there's a very low chance of this being the culprit in your case.

I hope this post of mine proves useful to you. BTW your description is quite easy to understand so no "terminology savvy" problems there. Do share if you have any further problems in this regard. Will be happy to help you.

Last edited by samsag12 : 3rd June 2012 at 19:51.
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Old 4th June 2012, 18:46   #215
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Default Re: Remote Boot Opener in ALTO LXi - Edit: Info on Pg 3 & 8 and a Detailed DIY on pg

So I did botch up the striker installation. I checked the striker position once more and guess what, from the fading/discoloration in that area, I was able to precisely make out the position of the old striker. My fitting was off by around 2 mm - don't know how I missed that earlier. So all I had to do was adjust it so it sat in exactly the same position as the earlier one and viola the hatch closes nice and tight. Of course I remembered to reset the striker part I had bent back to original position (... ouch! How I wish I hadn't done that)

Thanks @samsag12 for all the answers and for pinpointing the problem.

Others who plan to do this at home may please take note.
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