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Old 26th October 2008, 13:23   #31
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Thanks @shyamhegde, @omishra & @DerAlte for your wonderful replies.
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Old 26th October 2008, 14:13   #32
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A quick word on soldering...
Quote:
Not Wax, the word is FLUX: While soldering you may not need any. The joint solder wire is flux cored, so if your joint is clean, you wont need extra flux. But flux causes the solder to join faster at a lower temperature.
Sam, flux prevents the metal from oxidising. Oxide would cause the solder not to 'stick'.

On meters: I blew up my first meter, which was not supposed to measure mains AC voltage, by attempting to do so. My second, still with me, was a cheapo thing, but it serves to check batteries, continuity, and even mains voltage for me still after 20 years or more.

I would like one of those ones with a hook/loop that serves to measure current flowing in a wire without breaking it.
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Old 26th October 2008, 19:53   #33
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The flux is actually supposed to remove the oxide before the solder deposits, so that there is good adhesion. In my experience I found, wherever practicable, scratching the surface with a sharp edge produces better solder flow and adhesion, without incurring Murphy's wrath with dry joints (thin film of flux actually holding the joint instead of the solder).
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Old 27th October 2008, 01:10   #34
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Quote:
The flux is actually supposed to remove the oxide before the solder deposits
Both... I think.

There is active flux, which contains something, probably acidic, which cleans, and something that covers to prevent further oxidation.

You can tell by the something's and the probably that I've run out of knowledge here!

But I do know a little more about silver soldering, where the purpose of the flux is definitely to prevent oxidation, which happens quite quickly when you heat silver red hot.
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Old 31st October 2008, 13:34   #35
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Which tool should one use to cleanly cut 4 AWG cable into shorter lengths? Also, how does one then remove the insulation off the ends? I have a simple manual wire stripper, with which I can nibble at the insulation, but the notch in the center is too small to accommodate the 4 AWG cable.
I just bought a set of 9 hex keys from Taparia for Rs 125 to fix the cable-ends & fuse to the fuse-holder. Is this the correct price or have I been sold a fake?
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Old 31st October 2008, 17:12   #36
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Another addition to the list is a power jigsaw. I have a Black & Decker model. Extremely handy tool to cut plywood and sheet metal in straight lines as well as curves.

For wood working I also use 'Anant' block planers. Very good quality stuff.
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Old 12th November 2008, 13:45   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DerAlte View Post
The flux is actually supposed to remove the oxide before the solder deposits, so that there is good adhesion. In my experience I found, wherever practicable, scratching the surface with a sharp edge produces better solder flow and adhesion, without incurring Murphy's wrath with dry joints (thin film of flux actually holding the joint instead of the solder).
So true! This is a regular practice that I always follow when reqd.
And just to mention, my Soldron iron that I purchased from Lamington Road in 1996 during my industrial tour to Mumbai while in 3rd year BTech, is still working as good as new.
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Old 12th November 2008, 22:15   #38
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I always felt that using good amount of flux also saves the component from damage due to overheating the leads. i have observed this while soldering LEDs.
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Old 24th November 2008, 13:56   #39
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i am addicted to my socket wrench (commonly called ratchet).

it makes working with nuts and bolts a breeze. cant imagine working without it now.
a link: Socket wrench - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

also, anyone working on the engine should have a torque wrench. very important tool to avoid damage to critical parts.
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Old 24th November 2008, 14:33   #40
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I guess since this is a DIY thread I might as well write down my experiance over the weekend.

Had walls erected and windows installed in the balcony.
Bought second hand windows from Nampally at about 900 bucks each.
Total 6. (Rs 5,400 + 300 Transport =5,700)
Hired a contractor to finish the masonary to install them in my balcony.

This is on the 7th floor.
Was looking at a cheap and decent solution that is waterproof and keeps the sun out.

It took close to a week for this to be completed. (Rs 12,500)

Next task was to get the entire setup painted.

I decided to do it myself.

8L of Cement Primer.
1 broad brush.
5 kgs Distemper. (will need more when I start this)
Enamel Paints for the windows.
1 small brush for the winodws.
Sandpaper.
Scrapper.

Total cost about 1600. Maybe an extra 500 or so as the work progresses.

First I had to prepare the walls by rubbing them with sand paper.
This was to level the surface for application of primer.
The contractor has messed up the finish on one of the balconies.
The cement roughness refused to go inspite of a lot of rubbing.

Used the scrapper for cleaning and removing the old paint from the windows.
Unable to remove the old paint completly. But since I am going to apply a darker shade, I don't see it as a big issue.

Then I started applying the primer.

I have never done anything like this before.
Was a very interesting lesson in painting.
The idea is to load the brush with as much paint as it can hold for the part to be painted
The primer is diluted with water.
The box recommends about 650 ml per 1 liter of paint.
I found that adding 800 ml worked better for me.
Dip the brush in paint.
Wipe the bottom part of the brush on the container as you take it out.
Apply the loaded part on the wall and move up leaving small dabs of primer on it.
Then connect these as you move vertically.

The broken cement surface was a challenge.
I found that splashing the primer into the rough parts gave me better coverage.

Started work on Saturday.
Sanding the walls and cleaning windows from 10:30 to 1:30.
Painting the walls of the longer balcony form 2:30 to 5:30.

Sunday from 10:30 to 1:00 for the second balcony.

Its not a great work of art.
But I am very happy with the result.

Next week I will be apply the colour distemper to the walls.
Windows either next week or the week after that.

Since I am working on the Seventh floor, I tied a rope between my wrist and the brush when painting the outside walls.
Only as much as I was able to reach.

The rest can be taken when the building is repainted in future.

Would appreciate tips and tricks by painter gurus.

btw:
I forgot to wear a mask and now my voice is booming.
There is not a single part of my body that is not aching.
My head feels like its spinning.
But I am loving it.
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Old 22nd December 2008, 17:34   #41
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I have started work on the windows as well.

To remove the old paint I used a Paint Remover liquid.
Its branded as Deeco and cost about 150.
Added a little turpentine and then applied it using a brush.

It helps if you apply at the same spot for a couple of strokes.
Literally watch the old paint peel away.
But this is strong stuff.
Even a drop from the splatter burns like hell.

One needs to be extra careful in handling it.

One week later:
White Primer.
My 6 windows drank about 1.7 L in all.
Turpentine is added to the primer as well.
Costs about 50 bucks a Litre.

Next day.
Asian Paints Brown colour.
The first coat is over.
The windows took about .6 L in all.
I had added about 100 ml of turpentine to a Litre of paint.
This is by far the stickiest and thickest layer I have used.
It did not dry by evening so will apply the next coat on Christmas.

I am very happy with the overall result.

Last edited by bblost : 22nd December 2008 at 17:36.
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Old 27th January 2009, 15:29   #42
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Guys any power socket tool that can be used to power Soldering iron and other small electronic stuff like charging battery (not mobile phone's one) ???
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Old 27th January 2009, 19:23   #43
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What do you mean by "any power socket tool"? Something that takes power from a 'Power Socket' (15A socket) or an Inverter fed from batteries?
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Old 19th February 2009, 12:50   #44
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Hi DIYers, I need some pointers on tools. I'm planning to do some DIY engine & chassis stuff, for which I'm looking for some basic tools.

First & foremost on my list is a good 3D package. I was looking at SolidWorks Standard edition & was informed by the reseller in Chennai that the list price for the package is $7,500 USD. A discount of 40% to 45% was mentioned but even with such a heavy discount the price works out to ~2.25L !?! What alternatives to SolidWorks exist, are the freeware, open-source, shareware 3D packages any good ?

I'm also looking for a decent TIG welding machine & a plasma cutter - for working with aluminum, steel or SS tubes & plate (up to 5mm thick). The quote I've got for a Miller Diversion 165 TIG welder is 1.26L (website price is $1,617 USD) & the Miller Spectrum 375 plasma cutter has been quoted at 1.1L (website price is $1,395 USD). I find the prices quoted for these machines in India pretty steep especially considering the fact that these tools are meant for DIYers & hobbyists.

Do reasonably priced Indian equivalents exist ? Could anybody name some 'Made-In-India' TIG welders & plasma cutters so that I can get them quoted ? Thanks

Last edited by im_srini : 19th February 2009 at 12:52.
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Old 19th February 2009, 20:50   #45
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I'm looking for a staple-gun. Any idea where i could find one ?
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