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		<title>Team-BHP - Technical Stuff</title>
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		<description>Discussions related to the technical side of cars (Vtec, ABS, Intercoolers et al).</description>
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			<title>Team-BHP - Technical Stuff</title>
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		<item>
			<title>Engine Smooth after switching off and on again</title>
			<link>http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/69846-engine-smooth-after-switching-off-again.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 12:43:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi,

I drive a Verna. Lately I have noticed that once my car is warmed up (Needle in ambient range) and if I switch off the engine following the mandatory idling for a minute and switch on again I see that my engine is lot more smoother and has better response. This I do when I am waiting at a signal. Is this normal? or is there something wrong with my oil pump??

Help1please:</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi,<br />
<br />
I drive a Verna. Lately I have noticed that once my car is warmed up (Needle in ambient range) and if I switch off the engine following the mandatory idling for a minute and switch on again I see that my engine is lot more smoother and has better response. This I do when I am waiting at a signal. Is this normal? or is there something wrong with my oil pump??<br />
<br />
Help1please:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/">Technical Stuff</category>
			<dc:creator>DWind</dc:creator>
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		<item>
			<title>Why are V8 diesels a rare breed?</title>
			<link>http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/69823-why-v8-diesels-rare-breed.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 09:16:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Think about it, one can buy (internationally) a V8 petrol car for as low as $30,000 (e.g. Mustang). Purists insist that an S Class or 7 series ought to be a V8 only. V8 for the unreal refinement, reserve power (at all times) and performance. 

Question is : Why aren't there any V8 diesels? The biggest diesel that an S Class is sold with is a S420 CDI 4.0 liter V6, while the biggest oil-burner 7 series is a 3.0 liter I-6 (740 ld). Why are big diesels topping out at 6 cylinders? 

Compare that to the petrols : Too many 6+ cylinder options with the S Class : S450 (4.6 L V8), S500 (5.5 L V8), S600 (5.5L V12), S65 (6.0 L V12). Even the BMW 7 has the 750 (4.4 L V8) and 760 (6.0 L V12). 

Sure, the V6 diesels are powerful enough. But then, so are the V6 petrols. Clearly, there is a market for king-size engines in the uber luxury class. 

So again, why are V8 diesels a rare breed unlike V8 petrols?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Think about it, one can buy (internationally) a V8 petrol car for as low as $30,000 (e.g. Mustang). Purists insist that an S Class or 7 series ought to be a V8 only. V8 for the unreal refinement, reserve power (at all times) and performance. <br />
<br />
Question is : Why aren't there any V8 diesels? The biggest diesel that an S Class is sold with is a S420 CDI 4.0 liter V6, while the biggest oil-burner 7 series is a 3.0 liter I-6 (740 ld). Why are big diesels topping out at 6 cylinders? <br />
<br />
Compare that to the petrols : Too many 6+ cylinder options with the S Class : S450 (4.6 L V8), S500 (5.5 L V8), S600 (5.5L V12), S65 (6.0 L V12). Even the BMW 7 has the 750 (4.4 L V8) and 760 (6.0 L V12). <br />
<br />
Sure, the V6 diesels are powerful enough. But then, so are the V6 petrols. Clearly, there is a market for king-size engines in the uber luxury class. <br />
<br />
So again, why are V8 diesels a rare breed unlike V8 petrols?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/">Technical Stuff</category>
			<dc:creator>GTO</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/69823-why-v8-diesels-rare-breed.html</guid>
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			<title>Noisy Swift After going over a pothole at high speed</title>
			<link>http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/69805-noisy-swift-after-going-over-pothole-high-speed.html</link>
			<pubDate>Fri, 20 Nov 2009 06:08:14 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Today morning, on the way to my workplace, I accidently drove my car - Swift Vdi - into a pothole. There was a loud thud noise from the front left wheel.

I pulled over and inspected the car, and found no damage. 

But, afterwards when I drove it over uneven road surface, a irritating screeching noise came from the front left wheel. What could be the problem? There seems to be no visible damage. What can be the issue? please:</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Today morning, on the way to my workplace, I accidently drove my car - Swift Vdi - into a pothole. There was a loud thud noise from the front left wheel.<br />
<br />
I pulled over and inspected the car, and found no damage. <br />
<br />
But, afterwards when I drove it over uneven road surface, a irritating screeching noise came from the front left wheel. What could be the problem? There seems to be no visible damage. What can be the issue? please:</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/">Technical Stuff</category>
			<dc:creator>woof</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/69805-noisy-swift-after-going-over-pothole-high-speed.html</guid>
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			<title>Ignition Key Esteem VX 2001 - comes off even when engine is on</title>
			<link>http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/69770-ignition-key-esteem-vx-2001-comes-off-even-when-engine.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 14:46:24 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hi All,
 
I don't know, if this issue has been discussed earlier or not. I tried searching, but was not able to find anything releated. Hence, requesting help in a new thread.
@MODS: Please merge the thread, if issue already exists.
 
Ok Seniors, my problem/confusion is that, the ignition key of my Esteem VX 2001 easily comes off even when the engine is running. 
I'm confused, whether it will pose any problem/danger in future to me and my Esteem? If yes, what are the areas should I look into? Should I go for duplicate key? Or, this will not make any difference.
I have a duplicate key, which was given to me by the dealer when I purchased this car last year, but, that key doesn't fit to the ignition/ door-looks (ie it open the locks, but then doesn't come off).
Is this really serious? I'm really confused. Any help please:
 
Regards,
Dev_Kudle]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi All,<br />
 <br />
I don't know, if this issue has been discussed earlier or not. I tried searching, but was not able to find anything releated. Hence, requesting help in a new thread.<br />
@MODS: Please merge the thread, if issue already exists.<br />
 <br />
Ok Seniors, my problem/confusion is that, the ignition key of my Esteem VX 2001 easily comes off even when the engine is running. <br />
I'm confused, whether it will pose any problem/danger in future to me and my Esteem? If yes, what are the areas should I look into? Should I go for duplicate key? Or, this will not make any difference.<br />
I have a duplicate key, which was given to me by the dealer when I purchased this car last year, but, that key doesn't fit to the ignition/ door-looks (ie it open the locks, but then doesn't come off).<br />
Is this really serious? I'm really confused. Any help please:<br />
 <br />
Regards,<br />
Dev_Kudle</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/">Technical Stuff</category>
			<dc:creator>dev_kudle</dc:creator>
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			<title>Swift ZXI , Temprature issue.</title>
			<link>http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/69757-swift-zxi-temprature-issue.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 12:47:48 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>I recently drove over a big pothole in my Swift Zxi done 9000 km and the radiator got damaged, I got it replaced by MAS. After the repair the car dose not warm up fully. It takes a very long time for the temp gague to come to half point(15 KM around ) and it goes down to 1/4 if the car is driven on an open road or at night in 5th gear.
 
I went back to the MAS and they said it is normal(I dont think so) I told them to check the colant flow valve, the guy checked the hose by pressing it with his hand and said that the valve is closing as the hose has pressure else the hose will be eazily pressed.(I dont think so) 
 
Not sure what else should I check or should I force them to replace the Coolant Valve ?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>I recently drove over a big pothole in my Swift Zxi done 9000 km and the radiator got damaged, I got it replaced by MAS. After the repair the car dose not warm up fully. It takes a very long time for the temp gague to come to half point(15 KM around ) and it goes down to 1/4 if the car is driven on an open road or at night in 5th gear.<br />
 <br />
I went back to the MAS and they said it is normal(I dont think so) I told them to check the colant flow valve, the guy checked the hose by pressing it with his hand and said that the valve is closing as the hose has pressure else the hose will be eazily pressed.(I dont think so) <br />
 <br />
Not sure what else should I check or should I force them to replace the Coolant Valve ?</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/">Technical Stuff</category>
			<dc:creator>bhogalrajnish</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/69757-swift-zxi-temprature-issue.html</guid>
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			<title>Help - Laura AC weird problem</title>
			<link>http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/69742-help-laura-ac-weird-problem.html</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 19 Nov 2009 08:43:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Dear Gurus, Need some help and advice.

Problem - Particularly when the engine is cold (morning OR after few hrs gap). Once the AC is switched on it does not cool for a good 5 - 10 min.Not even in idling nor while driving at any speed.

After little finding, I have observed that even after I switched on the AC, the compressor does not gets on till the engine gets sufficiently warm and the Radiator cooling fan start up. It seems that the AC compressor and AC fan starts up only when the radiator cooling fan starts up. Pretty weired. This has started happening on its own and a week before. However, once the cooling starts it work normal and effective as usual.

Car has run 44000 KM and and 20 months old. last 3 service done at JMD, Mumbai. This time I was in Pune, so got checked up at Asset Auto.

Findings at Asset Auto : - Gas Checked. Its was 450 gm (0.450 Kg), full gas is  0.525 kg, so after 20 months, it sounds normal. No leakage, Gas and oil recovered, vaccumed and filled again. So no leakage and no gas issue.

two VAS logs taken out after a gap of 30 min and send to Skoda, AUrangabad with Compressor sr no.

Please help, what can be problem, and will it be covered in Warranty as the car is less than 24 months, but it has crossed 40000 KM.

Thanks, Vipul</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Dear Gurus, Need some help and advice.<br />
<br />
Problem - Particularly when the engine is cold (morning OR after few hrs gap). Once the AC is switched on it does not cool for a good 5 - 10 min.Not even in idling nor while driving at any speed.<br />
<br />
After little finding, I have observed that even after I switched on the AC, the compressor does not gets on till the engine gets sufficiently warm and the Radiator cooling fan start up. It seems that the AC compressor and AC fan starts up only when the radiator cooling fan starts up. Pretty weired. This has started happening on its own and a week before. However, once the cooling starts it work normal and effective as usual.<br />
<br />
Car has run 44000 KM and and 20 months old. last 3 service done at JMD, Mumbai. This time I was in Pune, so got checked up at Asset Auto.<br />
<br />
Findings at Asset Auto : - Gas Checked. Its was 450 gm (0.450 Kg), full gas is  0.525 kg, so after 20 months, it sounds normal. No leakage, Gas and oil recovered, vaccumed and filled again. So no leakage and no gas issue.<br />
<br />
two VAS logs taken out after a gap of 30 min and send to Skoda, AUrangabad with Compressor sr no.<br />
<br />
Please help, what can be problem, and will it be covered in Warranty as the car is less than 24 months, but it has crossed 40000 KM.<br />
<br />
Thanks, Vipul</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/">Technical Stuff</category>
			<dc:creator>vipul_bscity</dc:creator>
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			<title>How much preload for rear wheel bearings?</title>
			<link>http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/69688-how-much-preload-rear-wheel-bearings.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 11:39:10 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi guys the castellated nut for rear wheel bearings on my indica is extremely tight, i thought that the procedure for tightening tapered roller bearings is to tighten and rotate the drum to seat the bearings and then loosen 1/4 turn and lock with cotter pin, now i am confused should i keep them that tight when i change my wheel bearings now?

T I A</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi guys the castellated nut for rear wheel bearings on my indica is extremely tight, i thought that the procedure for tightening tapered roller bearings is to tighten and rotate the drum to seat the bearings and then loosen 1/4 turn and lock with cotter pin, now i am confused should i keep them that tight when i change my wheel bearings now?<br />
<br />
T I A</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/">Technical Stuff</category>
			<dc:creator>jav</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/69688-how-much-preload-rear-wheel-bearings.html</guid>
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			<title>Loss of clutch fluid - Help</title>
			<link>http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/69669-loss-clutch-fluid-help.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 06:41:28 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Dear Friends,
I have a 2000 model Hyundai Accent which has done 45,000 kms. 
Just 2 months back, I noticed that:
(i) my clutch was very very soft and was not offering any resistance almost till the very bottom;
(ii) the car was moving a little in the 1st gear even with my clutch fully pressed; and
(iii) the gear shift was hard.
In short, my clutch was not fully engaging. When I checked it with the mechanic, we noticed that there was NO clutch fluid. I was surprised because my car was recently checked at the Hyundai Free Care Clinic.
Anyway, I filled the clutch oil and the car ran fine - the problems were gone.
Yesterday again, the clutch showed exactly the same symptoms. Plus for the last few weeks, second gear was showing low pick up. I filled up clutch oil and it is fine for the time being. There definitely has to be a leak of clutch oil else the same problem wouldnt have resurfaced in just 2 months.
 
Where do you think the problem lies? If in any part, can the leak be plugged/stopped or would any part require replacement? Any idea on the approximate costs involved?
 
I look forward to your guidance on the issue. Thanks a tonne. BTW, I found that there are no existing threads specifically on clutch fluid leak - so I presume this is an uncommon problem.
 
Regards,
Harsha</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Dear Friends,<br />
I have a 2000 model Hyundai Accent which has done 45,000 kms. <br />
Just 2 months back, I noticed that:<br />
(i) my clutch was very very soft and was not offering any resistance almost till the very bottom;<br />
(ii) the car was moving a little in the 1st gear even with my clutch fully pressed; and<br />
(iii) the gear shift was hard.<br />
In short, my clutch was not fully engaging. When I checked it with the mechanic, we noticed that there was NO clutch fluid. I was surprised because my car was recently checked at the Hyundai Free Care Clinic.<br />
Anyway, I filled the clutch oil and the car ran fine - the problems were gone.<br />
Yesterday again, the clutch showed exactly the same symptoms. Plus for the last few weeks, second gear was showing low pick up. I filled up clutch oil and it is fine for the time being. There definitely has to be a leak of clutch oil else the same problem wouldnt have resurfaced in just 2 months.<br />
 <br />
Where do you think the problem lies? If in any part, can the leak be plugged/stopped or would any part require replacement? Any idea on the approximate costs involved?<br />
 <br />
I look forward to your guidance on the issue. Thanks a tonne. BTW, I found that there are no existing threads specifically on clutch fluid leak - so I presume this is an uncommon problem.<br />
 <br />
Regards,<br />
Harsha</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/">Technical Stuff</category>
			<dc:creator>harsha.cs1</dc:creator>
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			<title>Maruti Genuine Accessories and Parts PriceList</title>
			<link>http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-stuff/69655-maruti-genuine-accessories-parts-pricelist.html</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 18 Nov 2009 04:56:27 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Maruti Genuine Accessories and Parts PriceList

Please rename :mgppl.pdf (http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/technical-stuff/230072d1258520147-maruti-genuine-accessories-parts-pricelist-mgppl.pdf)" to "mgppl.rar" (http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/technical-stuff/230072d1258520147-maruti-genuine-accessories-parts-pricelist-mgppl.pdf)]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Maruti Genuine Accessories and Parts PriceList<br />
<br />
Please rename :<a href="http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/technical-stuff/230072d1258520147-maruti-genuine-accessories-parts-pricelist-mgppl.pdf" target="_blank">mgppl.pdf</a>&quot; to &quot;<a href="http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/attachments/technical-stuff/230072d1258520147-maruti-genuine-accessories-parts-pricelist-mgppl.pdf" target="_blank">mgppl.rar&quot;</a></div>


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