New Digital camera

[Samurai]

Originally Posted by Rudra Sen

Hey, I'm totally lost here! What's this Panda IEXIF?

@Samurai, it was hand held (1/30 @ f6.7).

It must be the software he was using. Anyway, that is not necessary. If you just save the images you posted, and then right-click (in windows) and see properties, it gives the EXIF info which differs from what you said. For arush image it says iso800, F4.5 and 1/25.

[condor]

Checked Khaadu's pic with irfanview - says ISO 800, 1/30, F4.56, no flash .. basically, any util will do that can show exif data.

[ballkey]

Originally Posted by Rudra Sen

Hey, I'm totally lost here! What's this Panda IEXIF?

It's an EXIF viewer application.
http://www.opanda.com/

BTW,isnt there a whole bunch of cameras dedicated to dentistry? Something like this :
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/healt...2146/2154/2184
There are models that mount on a dentist's chair too..

[navin]

Originally Posted by condor

Navin, the hunting could be because of the auto focus module in the two bodies - but both are listed to have TTL phase detection with a CAM900 auto-focus module.

Also, did you get the N80 and the two lenses before the D70?

i got the N80, 50mm, 28-105 and 70-300ED lenses in late 2001 or early 2002 and my brother in law got the D70 and 18-70 a few years later. since they had the same AF module etc. I expected them to behave the same. My expereince was in Singapore at the zoo and the bird park.

[gkrishn]

Canon has just launched this...

Canon unveils 'first' dust-busting digital SLR


10.1 Megapixel APS-C Size CMOS Sensor

Large 2.5-inch LCD monitor with new user interface and wide viewing angle. Fast 3 frames-per-second shooting with 27-frame burst and a 0.2 second startup time. High precision, wide area 9-point autofocus system.

But still no spot metering...

[condor]

Navin, is it possible that the hunting is caused by the 28-105 / 70-300 not being 'digital' lenses? Will check with my setup sometime - had got the N80, 24-120/70-300 and then added the D70s .. havent noticed the hunting since I mostly use manual focus.

OT: I leave the camera's on manual focus, also because this leaves the focus ring free. People who dont know abt SLR's often try to rotate both rings, and if the focus ring is moved when the cam is on a/f, they end up screwing the lens. Has happened with my brother's canon. It was on a/f, somebody picked up the cam to see it, rotated the focus ring and broke it.

[navin]

Condor,
You cant move the focus rings on my lenses in AF mode. It is quite well locked.

Are digital lenses made differently.

BTW I am looking to get a SLR digicam some time next year. most probably the D80 but I have not chosen my lenes. Nikon 17-55/2.8 is too expensive (Nikon makes a decently priced 80-200/2.8 though) and I dont trust Sigma/Tamron etc... as I dont have any expereince with them. The other choice is to use a cheaper slower walkabout lens like the 18-200/3.5-5.6 and augment this with a few really fast lenses for low light. but the 85/1.4 is too expensive, Nikon does not have a really fast (< f/1.8) 20-30mm lens and again the Sigma 20/1.8 and 30/1.4 are an unknown items for me.

The only really fast Nikon lens I can afford is the 50/1.4 which on APS is really potrait lens and I dont take potraits. My needs for fast lenses are really a long lens (80-200) for theater and a normal (20-30mm) lens for everything else.

Should I even consider a Sigma/Tamron lens? Will lenses the Nikon 85/1.4 have the same "digital" issues?

[tifosikrishna]

Originally Posted by navin

Are digital lenses made differently.

There are lenses which are manufactured to suit specific digital cameras, rather a certain sensor size.

Hence they are not suitable for 35mm film SLR cameras or digital cameras with image sensor bigger than APS-C size.

[Rudra Sen]

Originally Posted by condor

People who dont know abt SLR's often try to rotate both rings, and if the focus ring is moved when the cam is on a/f, they end up screwing the lens.

That's not what Canon says. You can move the ring even at AF switch on position. This, however may be different in the case of Nikon where auto focus motor is sitting inside the camera body.

Has happened with my brother's canon. It was on a/f, somebody picked up the cam to see it, rotated the focus ring and broke it.

I would like to know which lens (range and opening) was this?

[gkrishn]

Originally Posted by Rudra Sen

That's not what Canon says. You can move the ring even at AF switch on position. This, however may be different in the case of Nikon where auto focus motor is sitting inside the camera body.

This true only for high end(ring?) USM lens. For example I can do this on 24-85, but not on 50/1.8 or on 28-80(micro USM) lens. On these lens, having it AF and trying to use the focus ring, will break the internals. I got lucky few times though...

[tsk1979]

Rudra, the 18-55mm lens does not allow focus ring to be moved with AF switch set to on. I guess some high end lenses allow it. Both my 18-55/75-300 do not allow this. Have not tried it on the 50/1.8

[esteem_lover]

guys, my friend is planning to buy the olympus fe-200. is it a good buy. he is considering sony's 600 also. any thoughts on that, please ??

[Samurai]

Originally Posted by tsk1979

Rudra, the 18-55mm lens does not allow focus ring to be moved with AF switch set to on. I guess some high end lenses allow it. Both my 18-55/75-300 do not allow this. Have not tried it on the 50/1.8

Don't know about Canon. But in Olympus, the MF/S-AF/C-AF setting is software controlled, no button involved. I can freely rotate the ring in both MF and AF setting, it won't make any difference in case of AF.

What happens in case of S-AF+MF setting, where first you first do autofocus using half-press and then rotate ring for finer MF?

BTW, Olympus has had dust busting technology since last year. Canon is learning from Olympus ?

[condor]

Navin, are you looking for a lens for the digital cam only, or do you want to be able to use with both bodies? DX lenses will not be usable with film.

Personally, would prefer to go for Nikkor's, rather than third party lenses. Sigma & Tamron included. Try to see what zoom range you would need most, and get a really good lens for that range with features like VR. You could always expand from there.

While the TP lenses are quite good, there will be a difference. The lens is the one that does most of the work in getting the light to the sensor/film.

Another advantage with Nikkors is you could possibly use the same lens later on with a newer body - Nikkors are said to be compatible with cameras that much newer/older.

[navin]

a) I intend to sell my N80/MB16 and SB50Dx as i wont find time for 2 bodies and use the money towards a SB800.

b) I dont know what I will do with my lenses 28-105 and 70-300 ED. it all depends on the DX lenses i get I guess.

c) there are 2 paths I can go on
i) get the 18-200/3.5-5.6 VR lens and fast lens the Nikon 85/1.4 and TC2.0 Total $2000
OR
ii) get the 17-55/2.8 and the 80-200/2.8 Total $2000

Q: Will the 18-200 suffice for indoor shots without flash. Remember for most it's range it is a 5.6.

Q: if I get the 17-55 / 80-200 combo I wont have a really fast lens.

My head says (i) my heart says (ii).

If (i) I could trade my SLR lenses in for a fast prime like the 35/2 and if (ii) I could get the 50/1.4 instead.