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Old 20th December 2010, 13:41   #5881
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Originally Posted by Samurai View Post
...If you reduce by one F-stop (say F2.8 to F2)...
With my 50mm, if I reduce the f-stop from f/2.8, it goes to f/2.5, then f/2.3 and then f/2 and finally f/1.7.

When I can I say I reduced it by one F-Stop?

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Old 20th December 2010, 13:56   #5882
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With my 50mm, if I reduce the f-stop from f/2.8, it goes to f/2.5, then f/2.3 and then f/2 and finally f/1.7.

When I can I say I reduced it by one F-Stop?
When you divide your current F value with 1.414 (sq.rt of 2), you get the F value for 1 stop reduction.

Your lens aperture is a circle. The F value refers to the radius of this circle. The light coming through the aperture is proportional to the area of this circle.

Area of the circle = Pi X square of the Radius.

Pi is constant, so forget that.

So light is proportional to the square of the radius or F value. Multiplying the radius (F) by two gives 4 times (square of 2 = 4) the light. Multiplying the radius (F) by sq.rt of two gives you 2 times (square of sq.rt of 2 = 2) the light.

This is the most basic thing every SLR user has to know, at least used to know.

Last edited by Samurai : 20th December 2010 at 14:00.
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Old 20th December 2010, 14:23   #5883
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Default Re: The DSLR Thread

Thanks Samurai for the neat explanation. It's clearly understood. I think every SLR user has to have the basic idea about it and not necessarily all the math.

As a matter of fact, I never knew (or rather noticed) that reducing the f number by half demands 4 times increase in shutter speed. Now that I know it, I don't think it's gonna add any value to my photography.

Last edited by clevermax : 20th December 2010 at 14:28.
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Old 20th December 2010, 14:54   #5884
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...since there arn't any official dealers for Tokina, how is the warranty service? Any of your friends have any experience with that?
What you posted is a serious concern for those who are particular about warranty and service. According to my reliable sources, if you buy it with bill and warranty, and come across a manufacturing issue within the warranty period, its given to your local seller and the seller ships it to Singapore for service. Tokina is planning to establish service centers in India, but so far we have no idea about the dates. The seller I personally know (Chennai) has sold around 200 pieces in one year, so far no complaints reported. Probably Tokina has a good quality check before they ship their products.
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Old 20th December 2010, 15:39   #5885
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For shots from Safari Jeep you require higher speeds to avoid vibration, hence faster lenses.

Getting rid of Sigma depends on how much extra you have to shell out in the exchange of Sigma to Cannon. The only reason I can see is if Sigma has 5.6 or larger minimum aperture.

My recommendation would be to wait and save for a faster lense with IS, though the faster lenses cost a bomb they are worth it in the end. In wildlife photography every stop matters as most of wildlife is sighted at the magic hours of dawn or dusk, when a fast lense is not only desirable but at times essential. An IS lense lets you shoot at a much lower speed compared to a non IS. The TC would reduce your aperture by one more stop further minimising the window of opportunity for good shots.

Some sample prices from B&H
300mm/F2.0 - 5,200
300mm/F2.8 - 4,340
400mm/F4.0 - 5,700
from Canon USA
400mm/F4.0 - 6469
400mm/F5.6 - 1339
300mm/F4.0 - 1399
Extender 1.4 - 500

also browse through the Canon India prices Prices - Digital Cameras - Canon India
they are comparable to US prices with the advantage that you get warranty service here.
Thanks aroy, but it will take me at least a couple of years to come up with that sort of money (5000USD) I am looking for an interim solution. If only everyone could begin with a 1dm4 + 500mm f/4 IS set up. I want to get started in this field first and then think about investing in these prohibitively priced glasses. I am sure they're worth every $ of their price tag, but sadly its way out of my budget for 2-3 years to come.


As an aside, I thought canon lenses had international warranty?
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Old 20th December 2010, 15:51   #5886
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Default Re: The DSLR Thread

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Thanks aroy, but it will take me at least a couple of years to come up with that sort of money (5000USD) I am looking for an interim solution. If only everyone could begin with a 1dm4 + 500mm f/4 IS set up. I want to get started in this field first and then think about investing in these prohibitively priced glasses. I am sure they're worth every $ of their price tag, but sadly its way out of my budget for 2-3 years to come.


As an aside, I thought canon lenses had international warranty?
The 400mm/f4 that you were looking at in your earlier post is listed at 97k + on the canon website. So, what kind of budget do you have?

Also, since you will be shooting mostly from a safari jeep, i dont think fixed magnification will suit your need. You need to consider something like 70-300 imho.
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Old 20th December 2010, 16:05   #5887
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The 400mm/f4 that you were looking at in your earlier post is listed at 97k + on the canon website. So, what kind of budget do you have?

Also, since you will be shooting mostly from a safari jeep, i dont think fixed magnification will suit your need. You need to consider something like 70-300 imho.
I am considering the canon 400mm f/5.6L I don't know what it retails for in India and the prices mentioned on the Canon website are "largely" indicative. I have a quote from Jayesh of Fotocircle for 72k. I am now planning to have a friend bring it over from the USA where it retails for around 1200$. That I believe is at least a quarter of the cost of the really big/fast lenses (the 5000$ ones).

Yes I am aware of the problems that arise with fixed focal length lenses on a safari that is the reason why I have mentioned my existing Sigma 70-300 APO DG or Canon 70-200 f/4L USM (non IS) as a secondary/paired lens on a second APS-C body.
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Old 20th December 2010, 16:40   #5888
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Have you considered the EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM (INR 117,195.00 @ the canon India website)? You don't have to bother carrying your secondary setup at all.
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Old 20th December 2010, 17:11   #5889
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Default Re: The DSLR Thread

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Originally Posted by clevermax View Post
As a matter of fact, I never knew (or rather noticed) that reducing the f number by half demands 4 times increase in shutter speed. Now that I know it, I don't think it's gonna add any value to my photography.
I guess you are right, I stand corrected. With TTL metering equipped dSLRs, one doesn't really need to know how to compensate manually. Having started with manual SLRs, I ended up learning it.

However, people who use legacy lenses or other brand lenses on their dSLR will benefit from this knowledge even now.
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Old 20th December 2010, 17:51   #5890
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Have you considered the EF100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L IS USM (INR 117,195.00 @ the canon India website)? You don't have to bother carrying your secondary setup at all.
Yes, don't like it that much. Besides the primes are much sharper at the 300-400mm range anyway. And not all copies are sharp.

I have decided to go ahead with the 400mm f/5.6L and use the Sigma for the lower focal lengths and see how it goes. If I manage to save up enough, will eventually shift to a 70-200 f/4 or f/2.8.
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Old 20th December 2010, 18:08   #5891
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....I have decided to go ahead with the 400mm f/5.6L and use the Sigma for the lower focal lengths and see how it goes. If I manage to save up enough, will eventually shift to a 70-200 f/4 or f/2.8.
Have you checked Sigma 120-300 f/2.8 ?120-300mm F2.8 EX DG APO HSM - Telephoto Zoom Lenses - SigmaPhoto.com With a 2X teleconverter it will give upto 600mm at f/5.6. I had seen some images few months back, it beats many so called 'best' line-ups. This is my first priority piece of glass when I get to taste the safaris.
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Old 20th December 2010, 21:23   #5892
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Originally Posted by fazalaliadil View Post
joshguy,
Shutter.
If freezing a fast moving subject like a water fall use higher shutter speed, as 1/ 800th sec or higher. If you desire to show motion or blur in the water fall use slower shutter speed as 1/60th or lower. Same applies for anything moving.
Hand held is possible not lower than 1/60th unless using an IS lens or tripod.
Aperture.
It controls the depth of field, which is the background clarity or lack of it (behind the main subject). Sometimes you need a sharp back ground showing all detail from fore ground to infinity like landscapes, for this use low f numbers as f/10-f/32. To deliberately blur the back ground so that the main subject pops out like in portraits, use higher f numbers as f/5-f/8.

Please elaborate on the round light, which model of Canon and color of light.
Below 60% cropped images for reference.
Regards,
At higher shutter speed.
Attachment 470509
At slower shutter speed.
Attachment 470510
Thanks FAZAL ji

So generally what do i use AV TV?

Indoor/outdoor portrait ? Av/Tv
An party /office pics ?Av/Tv
Nature / landsxape ? F11-22?

Or should i use programme
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Old 21st December 2010, 10:40   #5893
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Originally Posted by joshguy View Post
Thanks FAZAL ji

So generally what do i use AV TV?

Indoor/outdoor portrait ? Av/Tv
An party /office pics ?Av/Tv
Nature / landsxape ? F11-22?

Or should i use programme
Key things:
1. Use Av/A mode to control the depth of field. For portraits you usually need shallow (everything except focus blurs out). That means larger aperture (say < f/5.4).
For landscapes and distant pix, you need deeper. That means smaller aperture (like you said f/22).
Besides, another fact is that lens operate at max clarity usually from f/8 to f/11. So if you want best clarity then you manually set the aperture.

2. Use Tv/S mode to control the shutter time. Freezing action = less shutter time. Capturing motion blur = large shutter time.

3. ISO. An important thing. Keeping the ISO low, will allow you to have higher clarity and more vivid colors. However, it increases the shutter time, as well as increases the aperture.

Quote:
Originally Posted by clevermax View Post
Thanks Samurai for the neat explanation. It's clearly understood. I think every SLR user has to have the basic idea about it and not necessarily all the math.

As a matter of fact, I never knew (or rather noticed) that reducing the f number by half demands 4 times increase in shutter speed. Now that I know it, I don't think it's gonna add any value to my photography.
It will if you intend to use the M mode on your DSLR (or even P&S).

Last edited by Samurai : 21st December 2010 at 10:53. Reason: back-to-back post
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Old 21st December 2010, 10:55   #5894
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Originally Posted by alpha1 View Post
It will if you intend to use the M mode on your DSLR (or even P&S).
The TTL metering will work even in M mode. He can see the EV. However, if he is dealing with a lens that doesn't/cannot tell the aperture value, then he will need this knowledge.
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Old 21st December 2010, 13:40   #5895
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Originally Posted by Ho0ligaN View Post
Thanks aroy, but it will take me at least a couple of years to come up with that sort of money (5000USD) I am looking for an interim solution. If only everyone could begin with a 1dm4 + 500mm f/4 IS set up. I want to get started in this field first and then think about investing in these prohibitively priced glasses. I am sure they're worth every $ of their price tag, but sadly its way out of my budget for 2-3 years to come.


As an aside, I thought canon lenses had international warranty?
The EF400mm f/5.6L USM is Rs 84,295.00 in the Canon India Price list, I am sure you can get a better deal with the retailer. The same lense is $1,339 in US. Hence you do not pay much in India.
Canon U.S.A. : Consumer & Home Office : EF Lens Lineup

Please note that with a 1.4 extender on EF 400mm f/5.6L USM you will get a F8 lense, pretty useless for wild life considering this is not an IS lense. You would be better off with EF 300mm f/4L IS USM which is priced similarly.

I do not think that Canon US products carry International Warranty Canon U.S.A. : Consumer & Home Office : EF 300mm f/4L IS USM
A trick used to extend the reach of telephoto is to use camera with a smaller sized sensor say DX or even APSC instead of FX. You get a lense factor (magnification ) of 1.5 to 2 with smaller sensors, which means that you have effectively got a longer lense!
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