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Old 28th June 2012, 08:43   #10006
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Originally Posted by KameshR View Post
... I will try to post some sample pictures shortly...
The DSLR Thread-dsc_0030.jpg

EXIF:55mm ISO 400 1/100 f5.6
Two manual flashes (Yongnuos) fired using Cowboy triggers
Bounced off ceiling

The DSLR Thread-_dsc0088.jpg

EXIF: 55mm ISO 400 1/200 f8
One Yonguo mounted on cameras hot-shoe
Bounced off ceiling
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Old 28th June 2012, 10:39   #10007
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Originally Posted by KameshR View Post
Hi phamilyman

Have you thought about off-camera lighting? In my opinion when everything else fails (increasing ISO / supplementing fast primes) it would be a good starting point to tackle low light indoor conditions instead of making lens choices.

Faced with a similar challenge, I dabbled into strobes lately and have found the results immensely satisfying. If your camera has the capability to fire a flash remotely then try to setup the flash at a convenient place which would bounce the light off the ceiling/wall. If not a pair of manual flashes and cowboy flash triggers would work too.

I was quite amazed to get fast shutter speeds at low ISO with incredible sharpness (> f5.6). I use a humble Nikon D3000 with 18-55 kit lens. I will try to post some sample pictures shortly. The major plus in my case however is that the naughty 3 year never gets intimidated nor distracted with this setup. I found the soft diffused lighting quite addictive too.
I went down that path (i have two strobes). Here is my current issue with that setup - its okay for pre-set shots. Its not okay for sudden candids - or maybe i need to play more with the lighting to get a uniform setup.

Also with us taking the kid a lot outdoors or across rooms, a fast zoom is what i need when the kid is running around. Flashes are cumbersome to carry around and setup as well. Or maybe i need some talent
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Old 28th June 2012, 14:40   #10008
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Default Re: The DSLR Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by KameshR View Post
Attachment 948246
EXIF:55mm ISO 400 1/100 f5.6
Two manual flashes (Yongnuos) fired using Cowboy triggers
Bounced off ceiling
Attachment 948247
EXIF: 55mm ISO 400 1/200 f8
One Yonguo mounted on cameras hot-shoe
Bounced off ceiling
Quote:
Originally Posted by phamilyman View Post
I went down that path (i have two strobes). Here is my current issue with that setup - its okay for pre-set shots. Its not okay for sudden candids - or maybe i need to play more with the lighting to get a uniform setup.
I really like the results when I shoot indoors with any lens, using my flash module to bounce some light off the ceiling. I use a Quantaray QTB 9500A twin flash (one directed to subject, one to roof) and this is attached to the camera hotshoe itself. So it is even good for candid shots and you don't require any lighting setup.

Here's a typical shot with bounced light.
The DSLR Thread-4.jpg

50mm alone with just home lighting will not give you this much sharpness and contrast SOOC.
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Old 28th June 2012, 17:40   #10009
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I really like the results when I shoot indoors with any lens, using my flash module to bounce some light off the ceiling. I use a Quantaray QTB 9500A twin flash (one directed to subject, one to roof) and this is attached to the camera hotshoe itself. So it is even good for candid shots and you don't require any lighting setup.

Here's a typical shot with bounced light.
Attachment 948340

50mm alone with just home lighting will not give you this much sharpness and contrast SOOC.
Results look good Clever. I am yet to get grip on Indoor shoot and now I know the importance of supportive lighting.
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Old 29th June 2012, 18:22   #10010
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Default Re: The DSLR Thread

Quick question - amongst the budget mid-budget Canon/Nikon/Olympus/Sony and dslr's, which is the model (or combination of body and lens) that gives

a) Great tones
b) Best "analogue" looking IQ with a smooth laid back feel more than a crispy brilliant digital feel ?

Thanks
--R
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Old 29th June 2012, 22:06   #10011
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Originally Posted by Ragul View Post
Quick question - amongst the budget mid-budget Canon/Nikon/Olympus/Sony and dslr's, which is the model (or combination of body and lens) that gives

a) Great tones
b) Best "analogue" looking IQ with a smooth laid back feel more than a crispy brilliant digital feel ?

Thanks
--R
I think that depends mostly on processing. Moreover, some brands share sensors (Nikon, Sony) so raw data will depend on the lens properties mostly.
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Old 30th June 2012, 12:34   #10012
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Originally Posted by nileshch

@fuel_addict, coincidentally, I too got a Canon 60D recently to replace my 7 year old grandaddy 20D. It has been a huge jump in features and reduced noise levels. Loving every click from the new camera!!

A big positive immediately when I compare to the old camera is ease of use when taking HDR photos. On the 60D you simply set the exposure bracketing and set the timer to 2 secs. The camera does the job of clicking the bracketed photos on the press of the shutter release!
Congrats on getting the 60D. Do you use any software to combine the three bracketed pictures into a single HDR one? The camera I know will only take three separate shots but not convert to HDR. The new T4i/650D has an exclusive HDR mode I believe.
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Old 1st July 2012, 15:16   #10013
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Default Re: The DSLR Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ragul View Post
Quick question - amongst the budget mid-budget Canon/Nikon/Olympus/Sony and dslr's, which is the model (or combination of body and lens) that gives

a) Great tones
b) Best "analogue" looking IQ with a smooth laid back feel more than a crispy brilliant digital feel ?

Thanks
--R
Best tones come with better Dynamic Range of the sensor as well as with post processing.

In Nikon shoot in RAW mode with 14 bits. The time taken is marginally longer, but you get more colour tones which can ease recovery of shadows/highlights while post processing. (Most of the Medium Format backs give excellent DR, but their cost is out of most of our pockets)

For lenses, go to dedicated photography sites and read through lense reviews. There are some superb lenses and some average performers. There is also a large variation in manufacturing quality in some lense - void them or find a store which will allow you to test a few pieces before you buy them - read on how to test lenses for both aberration and colour fidelity. Also carry test patterns and colour cards for testing lenses/sensor combination.
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Old 1st July 2012, 21:17   #10014
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Originally Posted by Aroy View Post
Best tones come with better Dynamic Range of the sensor as well as with post processing.
I'd put more stress on the second part. Non destructive processing can turn your off camera images from something presentable to impressive ones.

Below is a screenshot showing a raw file preview and the final processed Jpeg in different instances of Windows photo viewer. This was clicked in poor fluorescent room lighting with no flash, you can see its white balance is off & it is not having proper exposure. Processes in PS, kept in 16-bit mode throughout the processing till final save to web as Jpeg.

The DSLR Thread-processing.jpg

Last edited by clevermax : 1st July 2012 at 21:22.
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Old 1st July 2012, 23:22   #10015
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Originally Posted by fuel_addict View Post
Congrats on getting the 60D. Do you use any software to combine the three bracketed pictures into a single HDR one? The camera I know will only take three separate shots but not convert to HDR. The new T4i/650D has an exclusive HDR mode I believe.
I use Photomatix Pro to create HDRs. It gives a lot of options to play around with the kind of look you want from an HDR. Auto-HDRs are not a good thing, in my opinion. I have an app on iPhone which can create HDRs automatically and I have had bad results from it most of the time. Its best to import the photos into an HDR tool and play around enough that you start understanding what looks good and what doesn't.

For example, I like to create natural looking HDRs more than the dramatic ones that I often see. Here is one I created recently using the 60D, Lightroom and Photomatix Pro.

The DSLR Thread-img_0183_4_5.jpg
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Old 2nd July 2012, 08:01   #10016
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Originally Posted by nileshch View Post
I use Photomatix Pro to create HDRs. It gives a lot of options to play around with the kind of look you want from an HDR. Auto-HDRs are not a good thing, in my opinion. I have an app on iPhone which can create HDRs automatically and I have had bad results from it most of the time. Its best to import the photos into an HDR tool and play around enough that you start understanding what looks good and what doesn't.

For example, I like to create natural looking HDRs more than the dramatic ones that I often see. Here is one I created recently using the 60D, Lightroom and Photomatix Pro.
Attachment 949734
Nice HDR!
I slightly disagree on the Auto-HDR feature in the camera not being good.

Have seen in them as iPhone/Android apps but I am not sure whether they are creating True Tone HDRs. I have HDR feature in my Alpha and it gives decent outputs, and they won't look over processed or surreal. The camera actually takes three bracketed shots and processes the shots to produce the result. The normal shooting settings (WB, creative style) apply to this result also.

Both these are taken in harsh daylight

HDR with EV5 (There is Auto and then 6 EV settings from 1 to 6)
The DSLR Thread-dsc05952.jpg
HDR with Auto EV
The DSLR Thread-dsc05942.jpg

Many of the folks who use Photomatix and other HDR tools goes really overboard with the settings, and almost all HDRs will look really over processed.

Last edited by clevermax : 2nd July 2012 at 08:07.
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Old 4th July 2012, 13:42   #10017
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Nice HDR!
I slightly disagree on the Auto-HDR feature in the camera not being good.
...

Both these are taken in harsh daylight
Those HDRs have come out quite nice! Hmm. I did not know in-camera exposure fusion was this good.

Quote:
Many of the folks who use Photomatix and other HDR tools goes really overboard with the settings, and almost all HDRs will look really over processed.
Absolutely agree. I hate such HDRs!
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Old 7th July 2012, 07:30   #10018
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Guys, need your help here. I am contemplating to buy a new DSLR shortly. I am some how convinced to buy Nikon. Now, the confusion is between three models.
Nikon D5100
Nikon D90
Nikon D7000

After reading the reviews, what I understood is D5100 is good and is a entry level DSLR. D90 is better than D5100 and D7000 is semi-professional. Although photography is not new for me, I am new to DSLR's. It looks like the price difference between D90 and D7000 is quite wide. Is it worth spending on D7000? Please advice.
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Old 7th July 2012, 07:40   #10019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rameshnanda
Guys, need your help here. I am contemplating to buy a new DSLR shortly. I am some how convinced to buy Nikon. Now, the confusion is between three models.
Nikon D5100
Nikon D90
Nikon D7000

After reading the reviews, what I understood is D5100 is good and is a entry level DSLR. D90 is better than D5100 and D7000 is semi-professional. Although photography is not new for me, I am new to DSLR's. It looks like the price difference between D90 and D7000 is quite wide. Is it worth spending on D7000? Please advice.
I had a similar confusion.n in selecting which DSLR. Then went for Canon, the user interface and pics are far better than a Nikon
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Old 7th July 2012, 11:18   #10020
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Default Re: The DSLR Thread

Quote:
Originally Posted by rameshnanda View Post
Guys, need your help here. I am contemplating to buy a new DSLR shortly. I am some how convinced to buy Nikon. Now, the confusion is between three models.
Nikon D5100
Nikon D90
Nikon D7000

After reading the reviews, what I understood is D5100 is good and is a entry level DSLR. D90 is better than D5100 and D7000 is semi-professional. Although photography is not new for me, I am new to DSLR's. It looks like the price difference between D90 and D7000 is quite wide. Is it worth spending on D7000? Please advice.
5100 makes sense. Newer variant than D90.

and dr rajan, technically you can compare with dxomark.com to see superiority of nikon (or sony?) sensors. Even ergonomics wise nikon is cameras made by photographers, canon is cameras made by engineers! There is a difference.

I am a canon user btw

i think all are good enough - you can't look at a pic and say canon/nikon. The guy behind the camera matters.
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