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Old 29th March 2016, 16:21   #5926
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Default Re: The Home Appliance thread

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Are you absolutely certain that a 9w LED bulb has the light output equivalent to a 100w incandescent bulb?? Does the lumen to watt converter work for these calculations, something like this? - http://www.rapidtables.com/calc/ligh...calculator.htm

I had bought some LED lights (not branded) and they were rated at 12w but were hardly a match to even the 22w CFL which is why I'm skeptic.

EDIT: Philips 9w LED bulbs aren't anywhere near 200 by the way, more like 400 on amazon. I'm talking about E27 holder ones as that's the holders I have.
Good quality LED bulbs have about 100 lumen per watt if you select the Cool white types. They are more efficient compared with warm whites.

CFL lamps have another issue: they die early when subjected to moisture. My CFL bulbs kept failing in the kitchen and rest rooms. They die early when you cycle them on and off. LED bulbs are not affected by moisture or repeated on/off cycles.

There is a comparison chart of various lighting bulb technologies here: http://alchemy-media-marketing.com/c...al-light-bulbs
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Old 29th March 2016, 16:42   #5927
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My CFL bulbs kept failing in the kitchen and rest rooms.
Unless, one is spending a lot of time in the restroom, incandescent bulbs are best for the restrooms.
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Old 29th March 2016, 17:10   #5928
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Unless, one is spending a lot of time in the restroom, incandescent bulbs are best for the restrooms.
Yes, the quick on/off cycles kill the electronics.

(and how on earth did they ever come up with restroom for a toilet! --- just one of my pet language peeves )
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Old 29th March 2016, 17:33   #5929
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Yes, the quick on/off cycles kill the electronics.
The upfront cost of an LED/CFL would never pay for the amount of electricity saved in a toilet unless it's a public toilet.
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(and how on earth did they ever come up with restroom for a toilet! --- just one of my pet language peeves )
Amrikans, I think.
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Old 29th March 2016, 18:23   #5930
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Well, the 100 bucks LED bulbs that the govt are selling are pretty VFM IMO. Even if they don't turn out to be very cost effective, it still saves me time and effort from regularly changing tubelights or CFLs which go kaput much quickly than LEDs.
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Old 29th March 2016, 18:30   #5931
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Well, the 100 bucks LED bulbs that the govt are selling are pretty VFM IMO.
Of course. Subsidies change all calculations.
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Old 30th March 2016, 09:01   #5932
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Default Re: The Home Appliance thread

Thad and Carboy. After suffering with failures CFLs in the toilets I switched to LED lights. The issue is that the lights in a toilet are operated far more often than anywhere else.

If you vector in the cost of the replacement bulbs then it has to be either incandescent or LED. If you look at the hassles of replacing then the option is the LED.

Last edited by sgiitk : 30th March 2016 at 09:03.
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Old 30th March 2016, 13:56   #5933
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Thad and Carboy. After suffering with failures CFLs in the toilets I switched to LED lights. The issue is that the lights in a toilet are operated far more often than anywhere else. ...
If LED lamps do not suffer the same limit of on/off cycles that makes CFL useless for that application, then I will look to use them in the future.

Also, as someone who perpetually forgets to turn off the bathroom light, it should save me some electricity!
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Old 30th March 2016, 16:07   #5934
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@Thad; My main suue has been life of the lights. I have had LEDs for coming on to two years, and 'touch wood' no failure to date.
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Old 30th March 2016, 16:48   #5935
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If LED lamps do not suffer the same limit of on/off cycles that makes CFL useless for that application, then I will look to use them in the future.

Also, as someone who perpetually forgets to turn off the bathroom light, it should save me some electricity!
in the CFL, the component that fails is the Fluorescent bulb itself and not the driving electronics. The bulb uses a filament that draws significant current at switch on and develops metal fatigue. So it dies early if you subject it to too many on/off cycles. In the case of LED, the light comes from a LED chip that rarely dies.

If you still continue to use incandescent bulbs for whatever purpose, I have a proven technique to extend their useful life for a l-o-n-g time.
I have had a 25 W bulb that served for over 15 years. The trick is to add a silicon diode (1N4007) in series with the bulb. The light output comes down to half of normal level. But the life increases many times. The current consumption is reduced by half too. The only reason the bulb died was because the painters smashed the bulb inadvertently.
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Old 30th March 2016, 17:31   #5936
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Default Re: The Home Appliance thread

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If you still continue to use incandescent bulbs for whatever purpose, I have a proven technique to extend their useful life for a l-o-n-g time.
I have had a 25 W bulb that served for over 15 years. The trick is to add a silicon diode (1N4007) in series with the bulb. The light output comes down to half of normal level. But the life increases many times. The current consumption is reduced by half too. The only reason the bulb died was because the painters smashed the bulb inadvertently.
The diode will cause flicker in the emitted light, isn't it? And will strain the eyes.
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Old 30th March 2016, 17:53   #5937
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Am having issue with the voltage at home and electricity board says nothing can be done now due to some 11KV line problem which won't be solved in the near future.

My electrician suggested for installing a step up and can someone suggest a good one to solve this issue.
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Old 30th March 2016, 20:54   #5938
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The diode will cause flicker in the emitted light, isn't it? And will strain the eyes.
No. It won't cause any flicker.
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Old 30th March 2016, 22:34   #5939
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in the CFL, the component that fails is the Fluorescent bulb itself and not the driving electronics.
Then I have the wrong end of the stick, as I thought I had read or been told the opposite.
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Old 31st March 2016, 07:08   #5940
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The diode will cause flicker in the emitted light, isn't it? And will strain the eyes.
Remember at 50Hz there will be no flicker. The filament itself responds far slower, and so does the human eye. So that is a red herring. You will get about 50%-60% brightness with no flicker.
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