|
| |
| LinkBack | Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
| | #451 |
| BHPian | Can anyone help me on where to locate the engine temperature sensor? I seriously doubt either the temperature gauge in the instrument cluster or the sensor from which it senses is not working ![]() |
| | |
| | #452 | |
| BHPian | Quote:
1. To test the meter side, you have to pull out the connector from the sensor and connect it to ground. With ign key in the ON position, the Temperature needle should point to the max. 2. You need a multimeter to test the sensor. At normal ambient temperature of about 30 to 40 degree the resistance across the sensor output pin and battery -ve (not +ve) should somewhere between 1000 Ohm - 500 Ohm. Not sure about the trend curve. | |
| | (1)
Thanks
|
| | #453 |
| BHPian | Dear all, With concerns over the use of aerosol based substances, automotive OEMs have been using R134A as the refrigerent in the cabin cooling systems. This increases scarcity of R12 and many a times we tend to refill the system with R134A. Here is an article about the adverse effects on a compressor designed for R12 but running with R134A. Sanden AC Compressor Converting To R134A -Ilango |
| | (1)
Thanks
|
| | #454 |
| BHPian Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Hyderabad
Posts: 470
Thanked: 254 Times
| Thanks for the details Ilango! Correct me if I am wrong. In a nutshell, if R134a is being used instead of R-12, ideally the entire compressor needs to be replaced, but if one wants to continue with the old compressor, then the compressor's lubricant needs to be replaced, although the wear and tear will remain. Right? |
| | |
| | #455 | |
| BHPian | Quote:
-Ilango | |
| | (1)
Thanks
|
| | #456 |
| BHPian Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Hyderabad
Posts: 470
Thanked: 254 Times
| Good idea Ilango! Need to check how cost effective it would be since our car does one long trip (1500-2000 kms) once a year and apart from that it's only a weekend car. If we don't go out on one weekend, it then is not used again for another week! Hence with a car having an annual run of 5000-7000 kms, we need to check the cost effectiveness though ultimately one fine day the change would be inevitable. |
| | |
| | #457 |
| BHPian Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Hyderabad
Posts: 470
Thanked: 254 Times
| Hello Folks, Found this product catalogue on Ucal's website : www.ucalfuel.com Was curious to know the difference between the various carburettors used on the NE and the various Maruti Suzuki cars. Apart from the original NE carburettor, which other ones would fit on the NE directly and give provide better power. Regards and Keep Revving, Rahul Waghmare. |
| | |
| | #458 | |
| BHPian Join Date: Jun 2007 Location: delhi
Posts: 267
Thanked: 50 Times
| Quote:
| |
| | |
| | #459 |
| BHPian | Friends who dont have a soft / hard copy of 118NE's engine service literature can download this. http://www.datsun510.com/manuals/Wor...dan_Pickup.pdf The file is about 12MB in size. -Ilango |
| | (2)
Thanks
|
| | #460 |
| BHPian | I have a soft copy of the Haynes Datsun 1200 workshop manual for the A12 engine. Anybody who wants one can PM me their email address. Regards. |
| | (1)
Thanks
|
| | #461 |
| BHPian | Hi all, I am looking for the T-joint used in LPG conversion to supply hot water into the evaporator. I am not finding one in Pimpri. If anyone has a spare or can source me a new one through your known circles, that would be a timely help indeed. Need the part circled in red. Thanks in advance. -Ilango |
| | |
| | #462 |
| BHPian Join Date: Sep 2010 Location: Hyderabad
Posts: 470
Thanked: 254 Times
| Ilango, The joint that you have highlighted in the picture of our car above is not readymade. It was made using a GI pipe 4" long. A hole was drilled on it's wall and a brass nozzle (available at LPG stores) was brazed on to it. Regards and Keep Revving, Rahul Waghmare. |
| | (1)
Thanks
|
| | #463 | |
| BHPian | Quote:
-Ilango | |
| | |
| | #464 |
| BHPian | ENGINE NOT HEATING UP QUICKLY Off late I have observed that the engine is taking too long to heat-up. The temperature gauge hardly flicks and moves up after half an hour of running. The ambient temperature is at around 15-30deg C. I remember this was not a problem earlier but don’t know since when it has started behaving like this. Problem is not the temperature gauge but the lethargy of the engine when cold. Once heated up, it works fine. I have checked below points but I am still pondering about the reason: 1. Thermostat removed & checked for working in hot water. Works perfect. 2. Changed from the NGK Iridium plugs to normal plugs (NGK BP5ES) with 0.9mm clearance 3. Tappet Valve Clearance checked to 0.25mm at dead cold 4. Ignition Timing checked to 7deg BTDC. Dwell angle at 55deg & point gap at 0.50mm. 5. I had changed the radiator fan some years back as the OE blades got chipped. Currently it is a 4 blade fan from the Padmini. 6. Using Engine oil of Grade 20W-50 Is there any other point I have missed & that is causing this cold behavior? Last edited by KkVaidya : 1st December 2012 at 13:05. |
| | |
| | #465 |
| BHPian Join Date: Dec 2004 Location: Pune
Posts: 39
Thanked: 0 Times
| Hello KK, Even i have experienced the same with my NE. Since my drive had been a short distance - this became all the more frustrating. The only solution it seem's in my opinion is to have 'wet glow plugs' at the plumbing for coolant inlet to the engine - these will heat the coolant to warm up the engine faster from a cold start - and would need a cut-off. Request inputs/comments from gurus !!!! |
| | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Similar Threads | ||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| My restoration project 118 NE | svpatra | Modifications & Accessories | 47 | 30th April 2012 15:18 |
| 118 NE Club Bengaluru [NECB] | funkykar | The Indian Car Scene | 206 | 30th January 2012 09:25 |
| '95 Premier 118 NE Petrol - The Journey Begins! | ObsessedByFIAT | Test-Drives & Initial Ownership Reports | 41 | 22nd October 2011 00:49 |
| Mahabaleshwar with 118 NE | ilangop | Street and Travel Experiences | 0 | 3rd February 2009 12:28 |