Join Date: Nov 2011
Thanked: 1,074 Times
| | The phenomenal Tune-O-Tronics remap experience! - the best yet...
I’ll start by saying I’m a little crazy to even think about doing this… What happened?
- Well, the Kiirus remap was running ok. But, like all boys who love their toys, I wanted more torque and more power, and Kiirus had clearly stated that my car couldn’t be pushed further. More torque and power was the biggest motivation.
- Even if they could push my car further, Kiirus was based in Mumbai, which meant I had to wait till they came down to Bangalore the next time to make any more changes. And if I needed changes on top of that (all things considered, me being me, I get bored with anything being constant for too long, I was pretty sure I’d want to tweak it further), then I’d have to wait for them to come down again. This was next reason - I decided to hunt for a professional tuner based out of Bangalore, with whom I can work continuously for weeks… making changes and tweaks to my heart’s content, and when I’m thoroughly satisfied with the car, finally leave it be for an extended period of time (ahem…yeah, right!)
- There were around 3 flat spots in the Kiirus tune post 3500~4000rpm in top gear only, which I thought I won’t hit on the highway, but unfortunately did occasionally. And I wanted to preferably get rid of them in the new tune.
So, when Kiirus was at Bangalore couple of months ago, I requested them to revert my car back to stock. They were of course very surprised at my request, but obliged without issues. Why Tune-O-Tronics?
- So, now that we’ve established that I needed more torque (and consequently more horse power), I was of course still sensible, and was only willing to push the car far enough to let the engine run within its capability; without affecting long term reliability. What I wanted to do was push the car to 95% of its limit, leave 5% buffer to external factors – but never go over the limit.To attain this perfect remap that’s very close to what the engine is capable of doing - over a sustained period of time, I knew I had to look for someone with whom I could work continuously. What become more apparent as I started this hunt is that I had to find someone who has a ‘Master’ device. Only someone who has a ‘Master’ device has full control over the ECU, and can keep tweaking to my satisfaction.
- Most tuners in India operate with ‘Slave’ devices. Few tuners in India do have ‘Master’ devices, but many of these older masters aren’t capable of deciphering the ECU coding in the Rapid. Sure, they work for most other ECUs in the market, but tuners are understandably reluctant to keep buying the top of the line Masters all the time because they are frightfully expensive (slaves cost significantly way less). Return on Investment becomes a concern, right? Will they remap enough cars that the new master enables them with, to be able to first recover their investment, and also start making significant profits on top? So, most tuners in India go in for slave devices that can only read and write the file to/from the ECU. The modification to the ECU firmware is usually done by European tuners who have the masters, to which the slave devices in India are tied to.
- Pete’s gets his remaps done from Custom Code, UK. Kiirus get the remaps (for which they only have slaves, not masters) from PSChiptuning.
- TDI racing did mention that they would get their master soon, but they weren’t fully sure when they can start remapping these ECUs. Nobody else in India had a master ready for tuning the Rapid.
- As I continued my research, it became apparent that only Tune-O-Tronics has one of the new Masters with which you can read/modify/and write back the file for the Simos PCR 2.1 ECU that runs in the Rapid. Plus, to top this, they said that they charge you a one time fee only per car, and after that, any number of tunes/tweaks are free for that car, and you’re welcome to revert to stock and back to your tune of choice at any point in the future as well.
The decision was now obvious to go with Tune-O-Tronics.
The Tune-O-Tronics guys are frequently on the road, and visit all major cities in India for tune-ups. Feel free to co-ordinate with them if you’re interested. Listing their cell numbers below:
Sid - +91 9900024134
Vivek - +91 9900024137 http://www.tune-o-tronics.com/ https://www.facebook.com/TuneOTronics Meeting Tune-O-Tronics (Siddharth and Vivek):
The EGT equation:
- I called up Siddharth about 2 months ago and scheduled to meet up with them at ‘Tamarind’ restaurant. Over drinks, we discussed various aspects of how they go about tuning cars, and I didn’t even know how time flew by. Before we knew it, we were being chased out by the hotel staff cause it was closing time. I absorbed a wealth of information from them in the few hours we spent there, and a lot of it was new to me.
- Sid used to work for various tuning houses in the US for many years, and is an officially certified tuner from many manufacturers of powerful, infinitely customizable standalone ECUs. He came back India when he decided to start a family, and continues his passion till date with his pal, Vivek. In his own words, he says ‘I can’t think of anything else to do for a living’
- Sid and Vivek got into remapping cars because tuning cars is their sole passion in life. They knew they would face tough challenges in the Indian market, as remapping isn’t still as popular as it is in the Europe or USA.
- Yet, they decided that if they were getting into it, they would put their entire soul into it, and go all the way to get the best, state of the art Masters to do their job. They believed in their own abilities and knowledge to tune their cars, they wanted to be in full control of everything – and were ready to invest in the best masters available that will give them infinite controls to make these maps.
The initial Remap:
- So, we got around to discuss the remap I was looking for, and I explained to them that I don’t have a target torque / BHP figure in mind, but 320NM, 140BHP (Laura’s specs) sounded like a good target . More than that target, what I was looking for was an ‘on the limit’ tune that’s 5% lower than what the engine can safely handle. They smiled and said that this engine can handle a lot, reliably and safely under moderate driving conditions, but also explained that nobody talks to people about the danger zone, which is EGT (exhaust gas temperature). High EGT is the biggest nightmare in a diesel, and a turbo’s worst enemy. Sid went about explaining this in detail (and I did my own research as well). In a petrol, more fuel = cooler EGT. In a diesel, more fuel = higher EGT. And EGT’s are higher on a diesel than in petrol by default due to the nature of the explosive combustion in the cylinders. The turbo is spooled by exhaust gases, and there is a limit to what EGT’s the turbo can handle. Sid also explained the concept of WOT (wide open throttle), and its effects on EGT in a diesel. When you press the pedal to the metal (full throttle), the EGT’s build up exponentially quickly, and continue to keep building in a diesel, because your fuelling and boost values are running at the max levels under WOT. The Garrett GTC1244VZ turbo that’s used in this engine is a 3rd gen turbo by Honeywell that can handle high temperatures, about 850 degrees C was the continuous limit. It is designed to handle a little more, but in short bursts, not for sustained durations. Things will start to melt and warp if the turbo is exposed to EGT’s over 850 deg C for long, sustained durations. He explained that we need to stay under this limit under high rpm WOT conditions. For EGT’s to stay under 850 degrees under WOT in 4th and 5th gears, the safest remap is at the 130 BHP ballpark.
- So, I thought about it for a second, and decided to go with it for the time being, and not insult their knowledge. Now, I knew that there were 2 ways to hit 130 BHP. If you can hit about 320NM at ~2000rpm, you’re bound to hit close to 130BHP (this, I knew from the Kiirus map). But I wanted to do something different. BHP is an equation of torque, the more torque you make at a higher rpm, the higher your BHP figures will be, as simple as that. The formula is BHP = (Torque in lbft * RPM) / 5252. There is no point in just kissing 320NM of torque for an instant, only for it to fall off immediately. What I was looking for was a way to hold the peak torque for a while longer, so drivability improves across a wider range of rpm. Sid laughed and said ‘jackpot’. He explained that his 130BHP tune holds 310NM all the way from 2000rpm to 2750rpm, and trails away after that cause high rpm isn’t good for a diesel, and what folks should concentrate on is to ride the torque wave. Perfect!, I thought, finally somebody who understood what I needed.
- I went back home and slept on all this info for a day, and did my own research as well. 4th generation turbos that are out this year can handle up to 1050 deg C, but my turbo (and mostly every other turbo in a diesel in today’s market in India) cannot. Do I stay within this 130 BHP mark and tweak it within this limit till we get the best possible tune? Or do I insist we go higher and risk reliability? We decided on a date for the remap and met at Vivek’s house. Judgment Day! Sid promptly asked me if I’ve made up my mind about what kind of remap I wanted, and insisted that the 130 BHP remap is the safest, he said my reliability and longevity of the engine at the 130BHP tune is 99% of stock. I reluctantly shook my head, and requested for a higher tune. I explained how I take care of the car, regular fluid level and brake wear checks every 2500kms, how I have VW certified fluids at home myself, how I let the engine idle for a minute after every moderate drive, 2 mins if I’ve pushed the car, how I take it easy for the first 5kms after every cold start, etc. Without hesitation, Sid said, ‘sure, whatever you want, bro’. I was like ‘what!’, that was easy.
- He said that he would give me a slightly aggressive tune than he normally does, and when the remap is done, he would sit with me with a Rosstech VAG-COM VCDS tool connected and show me how the EGT’s build, and teach me how to control my throttle inputs to keep the EGT’s under the dreaded 850 degC. Awesome! This is just what I wanted, a tuner who understands what a customer wants, and though the requested remap is higher than the safest, is willing to sit with the customer and help him understand how to still keep the car safe. ‘Let’s go for it’, I said. At which point, Sid asked me if I wanted the EGR (exhaust gas recirculation) ON or OFF. I promptly said ON, but then he went to explain that the EGR valve pumps back a pre-calculated amount (per load/rpm) of burnt/inert gases back into the cylinders, they don’t get burn any further, and just get thrown out of the exhaust as is in the next cycle. But, what they do is reduce NOx emissions, that’s the only goal. He said that if we turn EGR off, we can replace the space occupied by the burnt/inert gases with oxygen (air pumped in by the turbo), and more oxygen = cleaner burn of diesel = more efficient power. Hmm, ok – EGR off it was.
- They carefully removed my ECU, connected it to some crazy looking equipment that I’d never seen before, and read a file from the EEPROM on the PCB. Sid asked me if I had a flash drive handy, and I did. He copied a file onto it and handed it back and said ‘this is your complete EEPROM content. The operating system + firmware for the immobilizer, air conditioning, etc.’. I was like ‘wow’. I realized then that what you read from the ODB-II port under the steering is just the ‘map’ portion of the ECU. Sid explained that in case of ECU failures during remap (which hasn’t happened to them, ever), they can write back what they’d extracted onto the EEPROM, or to a new Simos PCR 2.1 ECU, and it would then be the same as what I had from the factory. They installed the ECU back into the car, connected their master to the OBD-II port, and read the map portion of the ECU. He promptly copied this file onto my flash drive as well and said ‘your stock file, keep it for posterity. Any master can write it back at any time. In any case, we have 8 backups of everything’. Sid then settled into a sofa with his laptop, carefully manipulating my stock file using the software that accompanies that Master device. He briefly showed me how each ECU has multiple maps for every parameter. There were multiple turbo maps, multiple fuelling maps, multiple injector maps, multiple smoke maps, multiple timing maps and multiple limiters in each map! and few other parameters that I’ve forgotten already. He said ‘A good tuner calibrates everything to work in harmony with each other’. He explained how he’s seen tuners just touch a couple of turbo maps and a couple of fuelling maps, how they request for extremely high boost and fuelling levels in just a couple of maps each to make it a quick/hurried tune – fully knowing that in the end, these 2 maps they touch get averaged with the other maps that aren’t untouched, and the end output is just a higher average of torque and BHP than what the stock does. ‘It does produce results’ he said – ‘but that’s a hack job, it’s not the way to tune. Tuning is an art, it’s extremely complicated to adjust every single required map, only by the required amount, and get them all working together in harmony. That is how your tune will be. The 1.6 TDI is especially difficult to tune, and if not done accurately, you will experience flat spots at higher RPMs’. I was grinning from edge to edge…Sid took about 30 minutes to tweak my stock file, and said ‘Let’s flash it and run some tests, bro’.
The final tune!
- They quickly flashed the tune, connected the VAG-COM VCDS tool, did a full diagnostic (the same diagnostic that is run at the VW/Skoda service stations), and showed me the results – zero faults logged. He left the tool connected to the car, and asked me to drive while he monitors certain parameters. We headed out to the 4 lane Old madras road where I could do some decent speeds. He asked me to do a full WOT run in 3rd gear from 1000rpm till 4500rpm whenever I had space, it was easy. We then did a couple of full WOT runs in 4th gear from 1000rpm to 4500rpm whenever we found some empty space in the highway, and he asked me to pull over to the service road whenever I could. He then extracted what he had logged and showed it to me on his laptop. The log was a clean spreadsheet, with a zillion parameters that I could see logged comprising of EGT, Injector duration, Injector timing, Boost levels, Torque requested & Torque limiters, Torque at engine (crank), RPM, etc. etc. And sure enough, we were making 310nm at about 1900rpm and holding it steady without drops till 2700rpm, after which the torque levels went linearly down till 4500rpm. We could easily compute BHP from the torque we were making and found that we were doing about 140 BHP at crank at 3600rpm. Sid explained that the BHP we computed at crank is higher than what we would see at the wheel on the dyno as there will be transmission losses and losses due to friction, and the losses would increase with speed / RPM. Realistically, he said we should hit around 130 BHP at the wheel on the dyno. He asked me to drive around for a day to let the ECU adapt, and he said the changes should be apparent slowly. Alrighty then!
- On the way home, what was immediately evident was the quality of the tune. It was unbelievably relaxed, yet punchy, as quiet but smoother than stock, and more effortless. It was as if the stock tune should have been made this way to begin with! I drove the car around for a couple of days and really liked it. It felt much ‘less’ aggressive than the Kiirus tune or the tuning box, it was really relaxed if you were driving normally, but was quite punchy if you drove hard. I wanted to take some time to understand the tune very well, so I decided to go on a drive. My bro, wife and I decided to hit Gokarna and Dandeli. It would be a 4 day trip of about 1000kms in total. We had great fun on the trip, and have some really nice pictures to share (will share later, after the remap story). My bro and I spilt the driving efforts and we both loved the tune. It was great fun. The engine always felt like it had ample torque, and it delivered it on demand at all time, and never felt like it was stressed in any way. When I returned, I called Sid and said, ‘I love it, but let’s go higher. I want a little more torque than what I have, let’s do 320NM at least, hold it for as long as we dare, and hopefully we will hit 140 BHP at the wheel’. Sid quietly asked ‘are you absolutely sure’, and I gave him a firm ‘yes’. He said, ‘your call, bro’ – and so we decided to meet at Sid’s place the next day for the updated tune.
Taking care of EGT’s:
- So, I headed to Sid’s place the next day and he was waiting with his laptop. He quickly flashed the new tune, and said ‘let’s do some runs’. We did the same WOT 3rd and 4th gear runs on an empty piece of highway, and the way the car pulled was stronger than before. We pulled over to look at the logs. To my astonishment, we were doing 332NM at 2000rpm, still doing 320NM at 2500rpm, 310NM at 3000rpm & 300NM at 3500rpm – at crank. From the torque to BHP equation, we computed 149BHP at 3600rpm. Of course, this was at the crank. I was like ‘whoa, this is freakin awesome!’. He warned me ‘this is an on-the-limit tune, the turbo is running at 1.5 psi lesser than its max, your injectors are delivering 5mg/stroke lesser than its max, overall this is a little over 90% of your engine’s max capability. Take care of her, I’m only giving you this tune as you drive well, and know how to take care of the car’. I asked him what he estimates the BHP to be on the dyno, and he said it’s going to be around 140BHP at the wheel. I was grinning all the way… ‘let’s dyno’ I said. So, we setup an appointment at Red Rooster, and sure enough, we hit 327NM and 138BHP on the dyno. It was flawless. The 2.0 TDI on the Laura/Jetta is rated at 140ps (138BHP) and this was exactly what we were hitting. My car was now quicker than a Laura/Jetta under any given conditions, because it’s lighter . Yuhooo!
- Few days later, Sid and I decided to meet at the entry to the Nice road, near PES college. This was the test for EGT. Once we crossed the toll and found some empty space, we did a couple of WOT runs in 3rd and 4th and pulled over. Sid showed me the logs, and we saw that we hit 840 deg C (peak, around 4000rpm) in 3rd , and 870 deg C (peak, around 4000rpm) in 4th. We were at the edge. I asked him if it will go higher in 5th, and he said ‘definitely’. I wanted to check out what would happen, and he was like ‘hell yeah, let’s go if you’re game’… and so we started cruising around in 5th till we found a nice stretch of straight road without any traffic, and I floored the throttle (WOT). The car easily obliged and we started picking up speed very quickly. Sid was quietly monitoring the laptop, without bothering to look at the road or what I was doing, he glanced up briefly and said, ‘you’re a good driver, bro… keep going as long as you think it’s safe, I know I’m safe in your hands’. Errr, but… ok – so I kept going full throttle. The road was still empty till I could see, so it was safe, and we were picking up a lot of speed. I was already doing 180kph at around 4000rpm and the engine had no intention of letting up at all, the pull was still very strong and car was still accelerating. I peeked way into the horizon, there was zero traffic, so I decided to keep going. This was the max/full stress test on the engine that we could ever do, and I wanted to understand what the EGTs were going to be. The car did 206kph in no time, it felt as if it was still going (for crying out loud) ,but I was almost at redline, so I lifted off the throttle and gently let it coast to slower speeds, and pulled over after 30 seconds. It’s very important to note here that - In all runs in all gears, at all speeds and at all RPMs, never did the engine sound stressed or louder than stock, in fact it sounded smoother. NEVER did I experience a single flat spot in the entire tune across the entire rev range, in any gear – it was unbelievably linear, and flawless.
- We had hit a peak of 900 deg C between 4000~4100rpm in 5th when we hit 180kph, and it had come back down to 880 deg C at around 4800rpm when I touched 206 KPH. Sid then looked at me and said, ‘so now you see why a 130BHP tune is the safest for someone who doesn’t know what EGT is? The 130BHP tune would have held EGTs around 850 deg under WOT in 5th as well. But now, what you have to do is avoid WOT for a very long period of time in 5th , and your EGT’s will be under control, and your turbo will be safe. All you have to do on the highway is not exceed beyond 80% throttle, it still won’t take too much longer to get to the speed you demanded, but your EGT’s will be under control when you’re clipping at good speeds. When you have to use WOT, go ahead and do so, just don’t hold it in 5th under WOT for a very long time’. Deal! For reference, WOT in 5th gear in stock can hit EGTs upto 800deg C, or slightly more.
- I sat for a minute and analyzed this, we ever rarely use full throttle, right? Full throttle / WOT runs in 5th gear are so rare. You might do it occasionally in a couple of gears when you’re in the mood to drive hard in the city on an empty stretch, you might again do it in a couple of gears on the highway when you’re overtaking someone, but where else would you do it? Extended WOT runs in top gear are the killer, not occasional short WOT bursts, so now I wanted to understand what my EGT’s would be under normal, but aggressive high speed highway runs. So, I requested Sid to log some more, and I drove around just like how I would on the highway, but with a little more aggressive throttle input (still way lesser than WOT), and to my surprise, we only read about 550 deg C when I was cruising at 160 kph, and we only read about 660 deg C when I held a steady 180kph for a long time. Now I understood, extended WOT in top gear was the issue, if you’re careful with your throttle inputs, you’re ok.
I wonder what EGTs we would’ve seen with the RD Tuning box or the Kiirus remap – If I’d known that this would be an area of concern, I would’ve figured out a way to monitor them under WOT. Anyway, this is good info for everyone, so hope this helps. Thoroughly satisfied, and mileage hasn’t dropped!
I had some queries about my brakes - if they were holding up well after the remap
- Last weekend, I went on a trip to Davangere-Shimoga to catch up with some of my college mates, and they all loved the tune as well. One of my friends has a Vento TDI, and he’s now completely jealous of the tune, and has vowed to slowly save up some cash and get the 130BHP tune from Tune-O-Tronics. I averaged about 16KPL on the trip – which was pretty much what I always got in stock (with my driving style!). And it was very clear that the mileage never dropped because I was using much lesser throttle that I did in stock, and I shifted gears fewer times than I did in stock. I never had to push it too hard. Just a gentle press on the throttle was more than enough to build up some really good speeds. I’ve now been driving around with the Tune-O-Tronics map for about 4500kms, and I just love it completely. I’m getting around 13.5kpl in the city, which is again very similar to what I was getting in stock, for the same reasons stated earlier.
I also had queries to compare the tuning box with the remap, so I’ll break this down into parts
- My response to this might be controversial, but this is my honest opinion. The only cars that have so far impressed me with their braking force and stability under heavy braking is the Laura and Jetta, probably due to sweet mix between ESP and ABS. In every other car, I always feel that I could use better braking. Having said that, note that you can only go as fast the road and traffic will let you. Also note that the speeds you hit after the remap can also be achieved with stock, so the braking equation comes down to the driver to pace his speed so he can brake safely, giving room for other’s mistakes, also giving room for the likely event of a cow or dog crossing the road . Having said that, yes, the car is more responsive, and if you don’t adapt to the new tune and keep pressing the accelerator like you used to, you will have picked up more speed, so you need to adapt to the tune
- If you ask me, literally everybody else who’s driven my car has been satisfied with the braking. But, I was already exploring potential brake upgrades in the future (even when I was in stock), so the equation hasn’t changed. Bottom line, if you’re a careful driver, the braking is fine.
Torque, BHP & Engine noise: Tune-O-Tronics - awesome!
The P1 mode of the RD Dieseltronic box was as quiet as stock, the P2 mode was slightly noisier than stock because it was a very aggressive tune to hit 320NM, 116BHP on dyno, but Karthik tweaked the curve later to drop power and negate the noise. The first 320NM, 128BHP dyno tune provided by Kiirus was noisier post 3500rpm (compared to stock), but their next tweaked tune went very marginally lower on BHP and resolved the extra engine noise & made the car smoother than stock across the entire rev range. The Tune-O-Tronics tune from the start has always been smoother then stock across the rev range, even the 330NM, 140BHP feels ultra-smooth and quiet.
The RD Dieseltronic box that I had was the older one that only controlled fuelling. Their new box also controls turbo boost, and I’m not sure what kind of gains can be expected. A remap on the other hand not only controls fuelling and boost, but can also control injectors, timings and a host other things, which when tuned in harmony, can technically provide higher/better results, but remaps cost significantly more.
RD tuning box = Rs.20,000
Kiirus remap = Rs.25,000
Tune-O-Tronics remap = Rs.33,000
To me, this engine had no lag even in stock , and continued to feel this way through the tuning boxes and remaps.
If you were to look at another car with significant lag, the tuning box or remap should definitely help reduce lag, the degree to which they will be effective might be different.
I unfortunately didn’t measure acceleration times with the Kiirus remap, but I have results from stock, the tuning box modes, and the Tune-O-Tronics remap. Here they are:
22-80 in 3rd gear: 8.77s
40-100 in 4th gear: 9.66s
Tuning box - P1 mode:
22-80 in 3rd gear: 8.56s
40-100 in 4th gear: 9.43s
Tuning box - P2 mode:
22-80 in 3rd gear: 8.19s
40-100 in 4th gear: 8.97s
22-80 in 3rd gear: 7.45s
40-100 in 4th gear: 8.91s
Fuelling and boost readings from my ELM327 adaptor:
Stock fuel rail pressure (peak): ~23000 psi / 1600 bar
Fuel rail pressure after Kiirus remap (peak): ~24500 psi / 1690 bar
Fuel rail pressure after Tune-O-Tronics remap (peak): ~24000 psi / 1655 bar
Stock turbo boost (peak): ~21.8 psi / 1.5 bar
Turbo boost after Kiirus remap (peak): ~23.8 psi / 1.65 bar
Turbo boost after Tune-O-Tronics remap (peak): ~23.8 psi / 1.65 bar
It’s quite phenomenal to see that the Tune-O-Tronics remap is using a lower fuel rail pressure, but can still deliver higher Torque and BHP. Goes to show that there’s more to a remap than just fuelling and boost!
- I am in complete awe of these guys, and have so much respect for them. They’re extremely knowledgeable, yet so very patient, and are in full control of what they do. They also happen to be very cool guys to hang out with. They really know their cars, and how to tune them. Brilliant, fantastic, and I’m now running out of adjectives and praises. All in all, completely, totally worth it, and I’d highly recommend them to everyone.
- And since I was so satisfied with the remap, the first and only sticker goes up on my car, and it’s the Tune-O-Tronics logo. See attached picture below the post.
I will now go back to my first post on this thread, and call out my wish list again. Considering it’s my Rapid’s first year anniversary this week, I sat down with my good pal, Shadow-the-Shepard, and we went over all the goals I’d set for myself in this car to see how many I’ve finally been able to achieve. I had aspired my Diesel car to be equipped with, at the minimum:
- 1.6L 16V DOHC with VGT – check
- 120BHP minimum – surpassed only after remap (almost 140BHP)
- 100BHP per ton – surpassed only after remap (~115BHP per ton right now)
- 6 speed or 5 speed close ratio gearbox – check
- 25kgm torque - check, and surpassed after remap (almost 330NM)
- No turbo lag – check, and check
- 0-100 in ~10s – surpassed only after remap (9.42s)
- 20-80 in 3rd gear in ~10 seconds: check, and surpassed after remap (7.45s)
- 40-100 in 4th gear in ~11 seconds: check, and surpassed after remap (8.91s)
- Top speed of 200kmph – surpassed only after remap (206kph)
- Mileage ~10kmpl in city – check, and surpassed after remap (13.5kpl)
- Neat Handling, No body roll, shouldn’t wallop around during hard cornering, Steering feedback should be direct, Stiff’ish suspension – all check, not as good as the Fiesta or the Linea, but I’m quite satisfied
- Climate control with rear vents, rear defogger, mileage indicator in the HUD, Elec. Adj side view mirrors, Fog lights – all check
- USB input in audio system, rear park assist – achieved with the Pioneer HU, and Red Soul parking sensors
- ABS+EBD & Airbags – check for ABS & Airbags. I believe the braking system in the Rapid doesn’t employ EBD.
- All round disc brakes – Nothing I can do about it. Aftermarket fitment will void warranty, and is very expensive. Till my next car…
- Auto sense Xenon headlights with projectors/ Auto sense wipers & Auto dimming inside RVM – that was asking for too much in the first place, only the Laura L&K, the Jetta Highline and all other cars beyond that horizon have *all* of them. Till my next car…
- 16” alloys, 205/55~65 tyres – Can’t do the 16” alloys as then I’ll have to go with 205/50 tyres for the upsize (if I need to duck under 2% deviation), moreover a 50 profile is silly for our roads. I’m happy with my 205/55/R15 Yokohamas. 16” alloys will have to wait till my next car
Hmm, not bad, eh? I’ve hit most of the items in my list.
BTW – did I mention that I love my Rapid?
What next? …. I’m thinking 340NM / 145BHP, that would max out the engine. Ha ha!.
Sid – here I come
Hope you’ve enjoyed this journey with me over this last year… I’m sure there’s more to come. Thank you very much for all the encouragement, folks! Cheers!