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Old 31st August 2010, 08:53   #136
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condor, folks who have tried delvac MX on tata non crdi diesel engines have felt the same way (myself included) . if you go through the posts on the diesel engine oil thread, you'll see a few posts by indica/indigo owners saying the same. But since delvac is otherwise overwhelmingly popular, no one notices these posts. GTX diesel is slightly better, but i think GTD was the best (or at least the engine felt the best)

with GTD, the engine used to feel silky smooth the day after service, and at least for a few weeks, and got rougher consequently. With Delvac, it is pretty rough in the first place, but doesn't get significantly worse. I also feel the top end has been reduced.

Last edited by greenhorn : 31st August 2010 at 09:02.
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Old 31st August 2010, 09:26   #137
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Hey didn't actually mean to quote the whole post - just the bit in bold. And I was just pulling your leg about the down the drain bit.

By rough, if you mean less silent (more clatter), Delvac MX can perhaps cause that - it's a more free-flowing oil, compared to, say, GTD (though they're both same grade IIRC - 15W-40?). The engine shouldn't be rough as in more swing / vibrations on idle/revving though, nor should there be any issues related to starting, loss of pickup or fuel efficiency. Unless...

How old is your Victa engine? Idle the engine when warm, open the oil filler cap and check for smoke, then let's hear about it.
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Old 31st August 2010, 11:51   #138
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Quote:
greenhorn : .. no one notices these posts.
Greenie, people havent noticed - and neither did I :(

Quote:
I also feel the top end has been reduced.
Right now, I am comparing the behaviour of fresh Delvac with Castrol that's seen 7 months & 4.5k km of mostly city driving. The difference cannot be missed. And not just the top end, but the entire range seems to have gone down a notch or two.

Quote:
greenhorn : By rough, if you mean less silent (more clatter), Delvac MX can perhaps cause that - it's a more free-flowing oil, compared to, say, GTD (though they're both same grade IIRC - 15W-40?). The engine shouldn't be rough as in more swing / vibrations on idle/revving though, nor should there be any issues related to starting, loss of pickup or fuel efficiency.
less silent & rough. The loss of pick-up was the second issue. The roughness will increase the vibrations atleast a bit, and I think it is. I dont think it can be noisy yet smooth.

What would you mean as swinging ?
Yes, both are 15W40.

Quote:
SS-Traveller : How old is your Victa engine? Idle the engine when warm, open the oil filler cap and check for smoke, then let's hear about it.
The truck's done 58.5k. Will check the smoke part tomorrow (heading to the Bosch factory for the clutch switch issue).

One thing I'm thinking of as a stop-gap (till next oil change) is some Bardahl.

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SS-Traveller : And I was just pulling your leg about the down the drain bit.
sorry, missed it ..
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Old 31st August 2010, 12:06   #139
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Quote:
Originally Posted by condor View Post
Jaggu / Nitrous, need a help :

Am using Delvac for the first time. But noticing 3 things :

1. Engine is rough. Noticeably rough
2. Pick-up reduced
3. engine doesnt start immed on cranking.

All this just after coming back from servicing. Was much smoother before servicing.

Oil has been changed.. but I'm thinking if I should just go back and get Castrol GTX, and pour the 1000 odd bucks worth of oil down the drain.
First thing first, did you make any other changes to the engine eco system at service. Air filter, pump, diesel filter etc? If so ensure its not any one of them.

If not change oil and see, you can always drain that oil and keep it and pour GTD or whatever that suited the truck earlier. As greenie reported old gen engines might not really like this oil.

I picked up a 5lit can and given car to Mandovi today

EDIT: GTX for the truck? I thought it was for petrol engines?
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Old 31st August 2010, 12:15   #140
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Originally Posted by condor View Post
What would you mean as swinging ?
A movement of the block that looks like the crankshaft is trying to rotate the engine! Basically a cyclic rotatory movement of the whole block around its long axis.
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...some Bardahl...
Which one?

May I suggest you feed the engine a tankful of System-D-mixed regular diesel, and see if things settle. And do tell about the smoke bit.

I'm very sceptical about Delvac being the culprit in reducing pickup and increasing roughness.

Edit: Jaggu, GTX-Diesel is the next-gen (I think CH4) oil after GTD.

Last edited by SS-Traveller : 31st August 2010 at 12:18.
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Old 31st August 2010, 12:50   #141
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Quote:
Jaggu : .. did you make any other changes to the engine eco system at service. Air filter, pump, diesel filter etc? If so ensure its not any one of them.
fuel filters & Oil filter. standard changes. No coughing / sputtering, so I assume fuel filters are set right (as seen from earlier instance of wrong fitting of filters). FIP not touched.

Quote:
SS-Traveller : A movement of the block that looks like the crankshaft is trying to rotate the engine!
No such swinging.

Quote:
SS-Traveller : May I suggest you feed the engine a tankful of System-D-mixed regular diesel, and see if things settle.
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Old 1st September 2010, 12:11   #142
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Default My baby's back !

Smooth as ever before. Like she never missed a beat !

Had to go to Bosch today, so started a bit early. I go through the heating cycle and crank the engine. No delay .. unlike till monday evening. I head out, going through my usual warm-up idling. And she's back to her old ways..

@SS-T,
no smoke from crank-case after a 10km run
havent used any System-D
pick-up's back to normal & so is the engine.

Wonder why did this all happen in the first 175 km after oil change.
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Old 1st September 2010, 12:38   #143
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Quote:
Originally Posted by condor View Post
Smooth as ever before.
Wonder why did this all happen in the first 175 km after oil change.
Quote:
Originally Posted by condor View Post
fuel filters...
There's your answer!
Quote:
Originally Posted by SS-Traveller View Post
...other reasons - moisture or air in the fuel lines, most likely. Run the car for a couple of days and check again.
You've got a healthy engine. Enjoy the Delvac!

Last edited by SS-Traveller : 1st September 2010 at 12:40.
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Old 6th September 2010, 13:53   #144
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An old minor problem with the Sumo has been leaking of PS oil. The T.A.S.S used to check it during each service, but this time it had got a little too much, with a noticeable drop in PS oil levels.

So this time, decided to open it and have a look again before giving it for service.

Oil outside the PS oil tank :

Truckin'.. A journey of 7 years, 5 months & 78300 km with the Sumo Victa GX Turbo-psoilleak1.jpg

Opened the cap of the oil tank, and this is what I see : a warped oil seal gasket. Note the cut in the gasket.

Truckin'.. A journey of 7 years, 5 months & 78300 km with the Sumo Victa GX Turbo-psoilleak1a.jpg

There were some rough edges at these points, which seemed to add to the leak. (Note the chipped areas)

Truckin'.. A journey of 7 years, 5 months & 78300 km with the Sumo Victa GX Turbo-psoilleak2.jpg

So used an old screw-driver to chip away at the rough spots. Care taken to not drop the debris into the oil. Once this was done, cleaned those areas to reduce the oil. Then a bit of Anabond 666 over these areas to smoothen the spots.

Have put the gasket back as it is (even though it is damaged). But atleast it is holding. Will pick up a new gasket next time I am near a T.A.S.S, to complete this issue.
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Old 9th September 2010, 17:31   #145
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Wow!! Amazing to read your updates on the thread Condor.
You seem to be the king of the DIY.Now, how do you know about Anabond ?
These are the simple things that you do it yourself, but they are effective and saves alot of trouble.
Can't think of anything more to say.
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Old 9th September 2010, 18:21   #146
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@FM, thank you !

We are auto-enthusiasts, remember ? If there's a problem or if you see something that can be improved, you just need to explore it. As long as you dont do anything stupid, you should be fine.

I dont remember when I started using Anabond. May be mentioned by a friend (non-TBHP) or saw it in the hardware stores. But I have found it to be very useful.
eg: look at the rear indicators of any Sumo - it'll be dark, with dust & soot inside the bulb area. Or even water. I have used Anabond along the base - just a touch of it. And even almost 5 years later, the indicator still looks new.
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Old 17th October 2010, 21:21   #147
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Default Leather Steering Cover

The truck's OE steering wheel cover finally gave up, after a little more than 4 years of usage. It was a moulded, synthetic one with only one stitch. The upper layer initially started blistering at the points where I hold the wheel the most, and finally tore.

Truckin'.. A journey of 7 years, 5 months & 78300 km with the Sumo Victa GX Turbo-sumooe-stg.jpg

Options were to go for a off-the-shelf after market steering cover, but I did not know how good it would be. Also, looking at the available covers, I felt that the thickness would increase a lot. Approx cost of these was abut 500.

Alternatives : Ovion (who had done the work for the Ikon). Or, JC road. I normally avoid JC road, but decided to check out this guy Devraj. Fellow members Gurudutt & Prashu made it easy for me. Check their thread here :

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/bangal...bangalore.html (Leather Upholstery/Steering Grips: Devraj (JC Road, Bangalore))


Was there on saturday morning. Selected a plain & simple set-up, keeping the look & feel stock. Apart from the point that this one is a 3 piece unit unlike the single piece that the OE grip was, I dont think I can make out any difference. And that's what I wanted.

Time taken : 1.5 hours.
Cost : 800/-
The guy Devraj did it neat & quick.

I did not go for the perforated leather since I felt it was too easily stretchable. Also, didnot go for combinations since the choice of colors was limited and I was not getting a good combination with the available colors.

Here's a couple of pics.

Truckin'.. A journey of 7 years, 5 months & 78300 km with the Sumo Victa GX Turbo-sumostrggrip1.jpg

Truckin'.. A journey of 7 years, 5 months & 78300 km with the Sumo Victa GX Turbo-sumostrggrip2.jpg

Is it good ? It's fair. The Ovion leather seemed to be of better quality (look & feel). Worksmanship at both places is just as good. Ovion also has much more choice of colors.

Will I recommend ? Do check out his collection once. If you are ok with that, go for it. Else - you have Ovion, though at a much higher price.
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Old 18th October 2010, 08:29   #148
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Quote:
Time taken : 1.5 hours.
Cost : 800/-
The guy Devraj did it neat & quick.

Parwath, where did you park the Sumo? Will Devaraj do the work if the vehicle is parked in the MLCP on JC road or do you have to park in front of his shop?
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Old 18th October 2010, 09:24   #149
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@condor:

For the best performance of the car within normal expenses, one should stick to stock oil,.... things. Please try to use whatever company recommends; that are probably the best suited and best performance spares you could get. Like you changed oil for a better difference but it turned out tobe only a money fetcher or rather a unnecessary expense. If you try to avoid that then both the car and you will be on a super-b health.

Quote:
Originally Posted by condor View Post
eg: look at the rear indicators of any Sumo - it'll be dark, with dust & soot inside the bulb area. Or even water. I have used Anabond along the base - just a touch of it. And even almost 5 years later, the indicator still looks new.
Even the case with my Safari. The indicators are blackish, not fully, but it is noticable. Where did you applied the paste? Which base?

Thanks.
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Old 18th October 2010, 20:31   #150
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@Hari, apparently the MLCP is closed due to some nefarious activities being caught. Devraj's shop is in the 3rd parallel road, but no space there & is a one-way. I had to park in the next road, 4th cross parallel to JC rd. If the MLCP was open, then that would have been the preferred parking spot for all concerned.

@mercedised,
There was no additional expense caused by using Delvac. Instead, it turned out approx 20% cheaper.

Reg the paste - I applied it along the outer surface of the gasket / rubber lining that is there at the bottom part of the indicator - it comes between the plastic of the indicator & the body. Check the pics in the first post on this thread, or any new Sumo and you will understand where.
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