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Old 16th May 2014, 10:26   #5506
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Not yet! I am planning to go there tomorrow. If the rpm in uidle is in the range of 1-1.5 will there be any impact on the engine? Thanks a lot for your advice really appreciate it.
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Old 16th May 2014, 10:45   #5507
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Not yet! I am planning to go there tomorrow. If the rpm in uidle is in the range of 1-1.5 will there be any impact on the engine? Thanks a lot for your advice really appreciate it.
High rpm would most probably cause more fuel to be used.Don't think it would cause damage to the engine atleast in the short run.
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Old 16th May 2014, 11:36   #5508
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Not yet! I am planning to go there tomorrow. If the rpm in uidle is in the range of 1-1.5 will there be any impact on the engine? Thanks a lot for your advice really appreciate it.
More fuel wasted along with higher wear and tear due to parts movement which will in turn cause faster heat build up.
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Old 19th May 2014, 16:11   #5509
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Originally Posted by sumeethaldankar View Post
You can get after market pads just make sure they are original nissin make.These can be had for < 3000 per set.What is the mileage done on your car kingofmyworld.
Somehow missed your post earlier. My civic has 46k on the odo. 2007 Automatic. Ordered a set of brembo brake pads. Will get them replaced as soon as they arrive.

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FE:
Recent - 14.8 kmpl over 516 kms.
Last year - 13.4 kmpl over 21,240 kms .
Lifetime - 11.81 kmpl over 66,166 kms.
How do you manager to get these numbers manim! I just did an economy check and it gave me 7.8 in the city. I was very gentle on the throttle.

Last edited by kingofmyworld : 19th May 2014 at 16:15.
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Old 19th May 2014, 22:17   #5510
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Dear all
, I'm about to take possession of a 1.8 VMT civic 2007 tomorrow. It has done about 58000 km. The car seems perfect except that when you press the accelerator there is a knock which comes. My friend who is also a trusted mechanic told me its a common issue (engine mounting/stud mounting) with the civic and i'm getting them replaced as well since i'm getting a good price for the car anyway. But the explanation here on this thread doesn't seem to corelate with my experience of the "engine mount" / stud mount problem. No issues on cold starts or unecessary shuddering or sounds over potholes. And mind you i've tried everything before zeroing in on this one.
Just to sum up, the engine runs perfectly, no breaking ever bad roads etc etc. just that if im driving in 3rd and im on 30 and i step on full throttle theres a knock which comes for that one moment and its fine. Any thoughts? The Honda ASS seemed super busy and asked me to come tomorrow so before getting delivery i will get them to sign off on it. I had gone today and checked the entire service history of the car and it seemed absolutely perfect other than some AC issue during the 20,000 km car.
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Old 19th May 2014, 23:58   #5511
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Dear all
Just to sum up, the engine runs perfectly, no breaking ever bad roads etc etc. just that if im driving in 3rd and im on 30 and i step on full throttle theres a knock which comes for that one moment and its fine. Any thoughts? The Honda ASS seemed super busy and asked me to come tomorrow so before getting delivery i will get them to sign off on it. I had gone today and checked the entire service history of the car and it seemed absolutely perfect other than some AC issue during the 20,000 km car.
When you say knocking, is it an audible knocking sound or a lurching of the car when you modulate throttle just around the 30 kph mark?
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Old 19th May 2014, 23:59   #5512
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How do you manager to get these numbers manim! I just did an economy check and it gave me 7.8 in the city. I was very gentle on the throttle.
That was a long time back! My present usage is very low (4,500 kms for a year) so I do not worry about FE.

Earlier I did lots of 4-laned highway runs and hypermiled.

Holding the throttle steady at around 75 to 85 kmph and avoidance of brakes as much as possible will get you even 18 to 20 kms per litre on the AT.
(My second set of Front Brake-pads gave me 75,000 kms before replacement)

One other trick is to follow a big truck/bus (with a safe-distance and safe speeds on 4-lane) so that air flow on you is minimized (air-drag is one major consumption of fuel).

I just read ideas from the net and tried, some I cannot post here due to safety reasons

My FE inside cities (Bangalore, Chennai) were only 7.8 to 9.5 kmpl.
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Old 20th May 2014, 00:34   #5513
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Hello All,

So last month i took the plunge and joined the civic club, got myself a 2010 AT with 28k on the odo.

The car is still under extended warranty and got the infamous engine mount replaced under goodwill. Got glass polish done on the windscreen and headlights and anti rust coating not he underbody.

Its been less than a month and have clocked close to 1200 km already and i absolutely am in love with this car.

One thing i noticed was that whenever i would do a tank full unto the auto cut off mark a little fuel would leak from the back of the car. Took it to HASS and got it checked and they gave some random explanation of the plastic near the hose becoming hard and replaced it at no charges.

However since this has been done there is another issue that has cropped up, now on a tank full the fuel indicator bars behave weird. my first bar goes down between 4-8 kms and the next one within another 30 kms even though my drive is 70% highway and the car shows a fuel efficiency between 10-11 kmpl i find this behaviour really strange. I Usually refill when the last 2-3 bars are left before the reserve light comes on and the car takes about 36-37 litres to full tank.

Is there a possibility that something at HASS has not been done right for this behaviour.

Btw i also have noticed twice that my bars came down to last 3 and suddenly a 4th bar came on after driving a while, I guess its some calibration error while they fixed my tank.

Has anyone faced similar issues or anyone has any clue why this is happening?

Also my AC switch has been acting flaky, sometimes it just takes 5-8 presses before coming on or i have to just press and hold it till the car decides for it to come on. This is quite silly but once on the AC is bone chilling and works without any issues!
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Old 20th May 2014, 00:39   #5514
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Originally Posted by manim View Post
That was a long time back! My present usage is very low (4,500 kms for a year) so I do not worry about FE.

Earlier I did lots of 4-laned highway runs and hypermiled.

Holding the throttle steady at around 75 to 85 kmph and avoidance of brakes as much as possible will get you even 18 to 20 kms per litre on the AT.
(My second set of Front Brake-pads gave me 75,000 kms before replacement)

One other trick is to follow a big truck/bus (with a safe-distance and safe speeds on 4-lane) so that air flow on you is minimized (air-drag is one major consumption of fuel).

I just read ideas from the net and tried, some I cannot post here due to safety reasons

My FE inside cities (Bangalore, Chennai) were only 7.8 to 9.5 kmpl.
Thanks for the tip manim. Doing 75-85 on an open butter smooth highway is too tough. Heart says pedal to the metal! But still, will give it a try over the weekend. Hopefully I'll replace the brake pads and install the coil spring adjusters by then.
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Old 20th May 2014, 00:50   #5515
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When you say knocking, is it an audible knocking sound or a lurching of the car when you modulate throttle just around the 30 kph mark?
no lurching it's pretty smooth. to put it very simply. I press throttle. khat. all good. then repeat after a bit. khat. and so on. it's like there's a lag between my pushing pedal and response and in that mini second there's a khut sound. it doesn't come more than once for every full throttle. So I'd say audible knock.

Last edited by saketa : 20th May 2014 at 00:51.
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Old 20th May 2014, 00:55   #5516
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Originally Posted by Arun Venugopal View Post
When you say knocking, is it an audible knocking sound or a lurching of the car when you modulate throttle just around the 30 kph mark?
sort of like the knock you would get if you stall the car trying to go up on the slope. only it's not that violent and the car doesn't stall of course
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Old 20th May 2014, 10:49   #5517
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Originally Posted by saketa View Post
no lurching it's pretty smooth. to put it very simply. I press throttle. khat. all good. then repeat after a bit. khat. and so on. it's like there's a lag between my pushing pedal and response and in that mini second there's a khut sound. it doesn't come more than once for every full throttle. So I'd say audible knock.
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sort of like the knock you would get if you stall the car trying to go up on the slope. only it's not that violent and the car doesn't stall of course
Ok, I was wondering if it was a lurch at that speed cause I had that issue and that went away with a throttle body cleaning. I am not sure what the issue is if you are hearing a knocking noise.
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Old 20th May 2014, 12:51   #5518
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Originally Posted by bigblackshark View Post
Btw i also have noticed twice that my bars came down to last 3 and suddenly a 4th bar came on after driving a while, I guess its some calibration error while they fixed my tank.

Has anyone faced similar issues or anyone has any clue why this is happening?
I have faced this issue once last year and was surprised by it. I have posted the same question on page 297 of this very thread and have had some responses which you may want to refer to.

Last edited by rr_zen : 20th May 2014 at 12:53.
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Old 20th May 2014, 16:45   #5519
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I have faced this issue once last year and was surprised by it. I have posted the same question on page 297 of this very thread and have had some responses which you may want to refer to.
Thanks! I did read that, however in the past month of ownership i did not see that problem its only after i got the leak fixed that this issue came up, intact the rapid declining fuel indicator gives me heartburns all the time. The bars would go down much slower earlier!
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Old 20th May 2014, 18:26   #5520
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Thanks! I did read that, however in the past month of ownership i did not see that problem its only after i got the leak fixed that this issue came up, intact the rapid declining fuel indicator gives me heartburns all the time. The bars would go down much slower earlier!
I would suggest you do a FE check using tankful to tankful method to know if there has been any decrease in FE. If not, then it is a pure calibration issue which you can take up with the HASS
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