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Old 18th May 2010, 17:16   #91
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@Amit, by itself, the a/c unit in the TCIC Safari should be good enough. The Delphi unit is my Sumo works great. Just that the engine gets so darn loaded when I engage the a/c, the power drops immediately. My point was more about effect of a/c on the vehicle performance.
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Old 18th May 2010, 22:54   #92
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@all I have read on this forum somewhere that if AC cooling is not effective even after checking all things then try spraying water near compressor or radiator. Please, someone elaborate. @amit2k6 Thanks for that really useful info. I will surely hunt for that. @musicman if buying a used TCIC, look for one that has double AC & 4x4. Buying a LX ver. that i have will make no sense for a 2tonne SUU. To which wou will later realise if stucked.
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Old 19th May 2010, 14:14   #93
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Talking about Safari AC. Anyone knows what could be the cost of replacing the bearings in the compressor? My safari AC compressor bearings have got jammed and I'll need to change them.

In days when A'bad is touching 46degrees, the last thing you want is the AC conking off!

Adi
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Old 19th May 2010, 16:18   #94
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@AVR
My AC compressor was serviced. If i remembered correctly the cost was between 500-1000Rs including labour.
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Old 20th May 2010, 22:04   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by condor View Post
Hope your timing was also set after the FIP was put back in. IIRC, you would need to run about 100-200 km after timing checks before things settle down. I may be wrong on the second part, though.
The timing was reset after the overhaul. 2 observations
1 - was visibly emiting smoke afterwards against earlier.
2 - substantial increase in power
so got the mech to tune it for lower fuel feed and lower RPM.
ON THIS THE RPM GOT TO 750 on idle.
Surprising no drop in power. wierd. Otherwise very little smoke and the vehicle behaves well for next week.
yesterday got the AC serviced. No noticeable loss in power on ac.
Today visited Tata ( FORTUNE ) for setting the rear hatch noise , but also had the rpm reset to somewhere about 925. On switching the AC the RPM drops a little instead of going up.
But this doesnt mean that the car feels strained in ac . very very strange.
The poor techy tried tinkering for some time and then asked me to come back later as it would take more time.
The AC solenoid working fine and so is both the car and ac.
yet this anamoly.
An ideas ?
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Old 26th May 2010, 13:05   #96
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@HIGHNOON
How the REAR LATCH noise was fixed. Please tell. What the mechanic did?

Any improvement in AC cooling.
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Old 26th May 2010, 13:53   #97
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Quote:
HIGHNOON : No noticeable loss in power on ac.
Can you pls check what was done here ? This is something I have been trying to achieve.

Quote:
HIGHNOON : but also had the rpm reset to somewhere about 925. On switching the AC the RPM drops a little instead of going up.
Again - what's the secret ? The rpm must actually go up atleast 100 rpm.

And you say that with a/c it does not feel strained either. Hope the cooling happens when you switch on the a/c - not the other way .

Jokes apart, how is the cooling now ? And pls try to find out what did the mechanic do. Thanks !

Btw, 925 rpm is better than 725 .. pls avoid sub-800 rpms.
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Old 29th May 2010, 21:49   #98
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Quote:
Originally Posted by condor View Post
Can you pls check what was done here ? This is something I have been trying to achieve.

Again - what's the secret ? The rpm must actually go up atleast 100 rpm.

And you say that with a/c it does not feel strained either. Hope the cooling happens when you switch on the a/c - not the other way .

Jokes apart, how is the cooling now ? And pls try to find out what did the mechanic do. Thanks !

Btw, 925 rpm is better than 725 .. pls avoid sub-800 rpms.
To begin with the pumpwala asked the mechanic to advance the timing.
having done that the ac being switched on drives up the rpm.
Current setting is 800 rpm on idle and 900 on AC.
eNGINE sound is pretty good now.
FE needs to be checked. But my take is it must be improved.
Just had the AC serviced and sun control film changed to a Llumar one.
So cooling is fine not as good as a vtt but adequate now.
Also had the alternator charging which was ok just in case the lower than factory set RPM was affecting the alternator / ac performance.
The T.A.S.S. advisor told me to keep the idle on 1000 and 1100 on AC.
But after the pump overhaul , the engine sounds terribly fast at even 900 on idle Just doesnt sound right. also the pickup is fine.
so shall stick with the current setting for a while or shall pay mullaji pumpwale another visit. The current FE fig. should confirm the correctness of the setting.
Otherwise shall tinker with both RPM and diesel flow.
About the rear hatch , simply tightening the lock and greasing helped. So got all doors , hinges greased, this has greatly reduced the rattling sounds , so now more aware of the buzzing sounds .
Like some chirping sound from the central console trim etc.
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Old 29th May 2010, 21:57   #99
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Quote:
Originally Posted by amitk26 View Post
Ask for Dove Tail Joint for Sumo Grande and not sumo.

The exact part number is given in my post in 2.2 VTT thread the material cost ( latch + screws) was 200 Rupees .
Just greasing and tightening the lock set helped. the sound has vanished now.
The lower rim of the hartch is corroded due to rust and the hard silicon beading on this part has almost given away. This too causes a improper shutting. The beading must have aged and become harder in six years so that too is a problem.
Otherwise spares cost is shockingly low for many components. fortunately
!
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Old 30th May 2010, 19:58   #100
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@condor,

The engine feels sweeter now if the 2 lit. TDI from tata can ever be called that. done couple of 80 km trips to new mumbai and the smoothness is quite obvious.
So the engine timing must have been retard ( 'retired' as the old fellow called it ) On advancing it the spray is better so is starting and even the running of the motor.
Other than that , having kept the RPM quite below the factory setting , my query to you is ' if the vehicle is not feeling sluggish and the FE is good too ' , can the lowered RPM cause any damage in constant B2B traffic on ac , in terms of battery , alternator or ac perforamance.
Bottomline is do i have to increase the RPM , if the rest is ok ?
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Old 31st May 2010, 07:34   #101
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@Highnoon, there is a reason for the factory settings, and somethings are better left at atleast that much. Idling is one such thing. From what I understand, setting the idling to below 800 rpm for that engine will increase the strain on the engine. Reducing idling to below 800 rpm will not really help much. Pls revert this change.
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Old 31st May 2010, 12:59   #102
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@highnoon Rpm of my car is 900 at idle without AC from the time i purchased her.
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Old 1st June 2010, 08:10   #103
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Quote:
Originally Posted by condor View Post
@Highnoon, there is a reason for the factory settings, and somethings are better left at atleast that much. Idling is one such thing. From what I understand, setting the idling to below 800 rpm for that engine will increase the strain on the engine. Reducing idling to below 800 rpm will not really help much. Pls revert this change.
Thanks buddy ! shall get it done at the earliest.
My only concern was with the FIP overhaul is there enough change in the parameters to warrant a different fuel feed and engine speed. Again if the rest is ok .
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Old 2nd June 2010, 17:33   #104
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Nice review.My Safari clutch is running a little hard,will it need a clutch kit change or a complete clutch plate change?how much will it cost?
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Old 2nd June 2010, 21:49   #105
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@manishverma
Hi, Clutch hardness\harshness can be also due to impurities in the hydraulic system of clutch. Before going for any major work, Do clutch bleeding. I t will affect the clutch feel.
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