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Old 20th May 2010, 10:16   #31
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As already mentioned by @ghpk, you should get the AC condenser cleaned with pressurized water. In my case, the technician had drained the coolant & removed the radiator for better access to the AC condenser. The colour of the water that flowed off the condenser shamed the dirtiest Kolkata drain. Needless to say, the AC started cooling magnificently after that.
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Old 20th May 2010, 11:05   #32
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As already mentioned by @ghpk, you should get the AC condenser cleaned with pressurized water. In my case, the technician had drained the coolant & removed the radiator for better access to the AC condenser. The colour of the water that flowed off the condenser shamed the dirtiest Kolkata drain. Needless to say, the AC started cooling magnificently after that.
You mean the technician removed those parts and then only he was able to reach to condenser ? Did he remove the condenser too for cleaning ?

My AC too is giving the same problem, it doesnt chill on Delhi summer afternoon temperatures.
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Old 20th May 2010, 15:02   #33
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As already mentioned by @ghpk, you should get the AC condenser cleaned with pressurized water. In my case, the technician had drained the coolant & removed the radiator for better access to the AC condenser. The colour of the water that flowed off the condenser shamed the dirtiest Kolkata drain. Needless to say, the AC started cooling magnificently after that.
I had already had the car pressure-cleaned a couple of months ago, but even then hadn't felt any significant amount of improvement in the cooling. So I discounted that theory. However if you are suggesting that a condenser be removed and cleaned (similar to how a radiator is cleaned), I shall give it a try the next time.
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Old 26th September 2010, 21:37   #34
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This might belong to a better thread, or maybe a separate thread, but since it's about my Santro I thought I shall post it here. Mods please let me know if this is the wrong thread to post this in.

I am thinking of fitting a CNG kit on/in my Santro. Off the cuff calculations show I can halve my fuel bills and recover my investment in the kit by a year or so.

I checked with the local MASS owner where I have been a regular customer. He opined that use of CNG would increase the carbon deposits in the engine as well as make the engine lose some performance and that I shall have to shell out a good amount after about 3-4 years for an engine overhaul. So:

1. I pay Rs. 35-40 K for the kit installation.
2. The CNG cylinder would take up the boot area of the Santro.
3. The car will now run on both petrol or CNG.
4. Using CNG will lower the FE by 1 - 1.5 kmpl.
4. I shall have to set aside an amount of 35-40K for an engine overhaul after about 3-4 years (in his opinion running the car only on petrol would not necessitate an engine overhaul or would cost much lesser).

I need someone (preferably people who have run their cars on CNG for more than a couple of years) to confirm point #4 above for me. What impact does/would it have on the engine? Does the use of CNG increase the carbon deposits in the engine? Would a regular servicing be sufficient or would I have to go for something more elaborate?
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Old 26th September 2010, 21:47   #35
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CNG is a dry fuel, it eats up your engine. Don't venture into such practices in order to save some amount on your fuel bills . Stay away from all these!
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Old 27th September 2010, 00:17   #36
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But then how come so many vehicles are running on CNG?

An aside: Last time I went for an oil change, the mechanic advised me against using an engine flush. His argument was the engine flush will loosen the deposits in the engine which act like sealants, and the engine may start leaking oil, in which case it will have to be opened up and repaired. Is it true?
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Old 27th September 2010, 14:47   #37
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CNG is a dry fuel, it eats up your engine. ...
That's a rather strange comment on CNG. Care to explain what you meant? How does it "eat up" the engine?
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Old 17th November 2010, 13:43   #38
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An update on the Santro: Completed 60K on the odo. Got the front brake pads replaced with original Hyundai spares. Rear liners inspected and they are good for another few months. Engine oil inspected and will run for another couple months before it needs change. Driver side door 'channel' (through which the glass rolls up and down) was replaced as the glass was miserably out of alignment.

Next got it thoroughly serviced, including the underbody and got the condenser and radiator grills cleaned with compressed air.

Next wheel alignment was done.

Labour costs:
Door channel change: Rs. 100/-
Front brake pad replacement + Rear brake liners inspection and cleaning: Rs. 300/-
Brake pad set, 1/4 litre brake oil and door channel cost Rs. 1400/-
Servicing (i.e. cleaning) cost Rs. 300/-, wheel alignment Rs. 275/-

The car feels noticeably smoother to drive now. Even the AC seems to be more effective now.

.

Last edited by honeybee : 17th November 2010 at 13:49. Reason: The work was carried out at a roadside garage.
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Old 18th November 2010, 03:01   #39
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Brake pad set, 1/4 litre brake oil and door channel cost Rs. 1400/-
Rs.1400/- for two pads or four ?
last time i enquired the only H.A.S.S. in my town said, they come in a package for all 4 wheels and was quite expensive.

thats one of the reason i am using BOSCH, and every friend who has been on driver seat, said Did you installed Power Brakes ?
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Old 18th November 2010, 06:39   #40
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Rs. 1400 was the total cost of material, including front brake pads, brake oil and the door channel. Since the seller is an acquaintance, he gave me a lumpsum total and I didn't particularly enquire about the individual breakup. The brakepads alone cost a little more than 1000/- in MRP.

It's weird to hear the Hyundai A.S.S. sell the brake pads and liners as a single set. All the more reason to stick to aftermarket sources. I had this experience back in 2000 (or thereabouts) where I went to purchase a headlight for a Fiat Uno. The dealer tried to push the side indicator lamp along with the headlight. I refused to buy the side indicator, and ended up sourcing the original headlight from Opera House (at almost half the cost).
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Old 18th November 2010, 13:29   #41
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yes Hyundai does that in many spares, may be its the monopoly of single service dealer in our small city.

However i am having better brakes after that buy all four episode as i used BOSCH

Similar thing happened when i was getting jerky rides and found the wire for plug No:4 was the culprit then also the service center wanted me to buy entire set and i was forced to get it sourced from some mechanic.
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Old 20th November 2010, 08:42   #42
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Here's something else I am thinking of doing. Don't know if anyone else has tried this. I have aftermarket foglamps fitted in my car. The quality of the lamps is not overly good, but they do the job, specially in bumper to bumper city traffic. With the fogs on, I can switch off the headlights and don't have to suffer from the reflective glare coming from the car in front. I guess the bulbs in the foglamps are rated at 55w output or thereabouts, same as a normal headlight. I am planning to switch to the Philips Extra (?) bulbs, which are rated at 55/60w and advertised to be superior to a traditional 55/60w halogen bulb. I would also try and go for a high/low beam switching in the foglights, if that's at all possible.
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Old 2nd December 2010, 09:21   #43
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OK I have been noticing the car wobbling a lot when under heavy braking. I initially suspected worn out brake pads (which indeed was the case), but even after replacing the pads with brand new ones, the braking performance leaves a lot to be desired. I have noticed the car doesn't always keep a straight line under heavy braking. Also when driving over minor irregularities on the roads at speeds of 70kmph or thereabouts the car briefly goes out of its line and I have to make steering corrections to bring it back in line.

Is it time to get the suspension checked/replaced? My guess is it's been riding on the stock suspension, and it's been a good seven years now. Are these symptoms of the suspension giving up? If yes, should I go with the OEM kit (which brand is that?) or is there any better aftermarket option available?

[Edit]The Philips H4 headlight bulbs supposedly won't fit into the fogs, as the fogs cannot accomodate the longer halogens.[/Edit]
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Old 4th December 2010, 17:47   #44
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Update: Got the front suspension inspected and the mechanic said the shock absorbers are alright. He advised me to get the wheels re-aligned. After the re-alignment the problem seems to have vanished. I tested by braking hard and locking the wheels, but the car didn't budge from its line. It's very composed on the bad roads too, just like it was earlier. Spent 100 for inspection and 250 for a realignment (since I got it done from a new place).

Got the horns replaced with a Minda set. Total job cost Rs. 300 including parts and labour.
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Old 15th December 2010, 09:27   #45
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After the re-alignment, the problem seemed to have disappeared, but I am still wary of highspeed braking or riding on uneven patches at speeds of around 60kmph, as the car still tends to wobble.

On thinking more, I noticed one more thing: in my first wheel alignment (after which the trouble started) I had asked the guy to rotate the tyres. He inspected the tyres and said the front tyres are in a better condition than the rear ones, and so it would be best not to rotate them. I trusted him and left the tyres as they are.

Now with the front tyres being in a better condition, they will have more grip, while the rear ones will have less grip. Under severe braking will this introduce oversteer? Will rotating the tyres correct the oversteer?
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