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Old 7th March 2005, 11:10   #16
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check to see if they have increased the pipe diameter....if the dia is enlarged then you will suffer from low torque....but your high end will be good...CHECK PIPE DIA.
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Old 7th March 2005, 11:52   #17
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Rtech, agreed that Loud is not equal to power, but buddy the car will consume little bit extra fuel to give out the sound energy!! So, if i keep straight pipes which is going to give me the loudest sound possible, plus no backpressure working on the engine, my FE will drop drastically!
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Old 7th March 2005, 11:54   #18
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Anoop, the pipe dia has been increased slightly. But i need some more low end torque first & then i will take the car to honda & look to increase the FE.
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Old 7th March 2005, 13:27   #19
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Hey jigar,
Firstly,the Vtec may be fast in stock form,but it is 'definately' not the best engine to play around with.Its very very sensitive.We've blowed up a Vtec engine a few months back.Now since you have the free flow done,go ahead with the NGK plugs and Splitfire wires,Fuel Pressure Regulator and a Throttle job done for now.
And 15" wheels with 205 tyres are just about perfect for the Vtec.Avoid 16inchers.

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Old 7th March 2005, 14:30   #20
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Xmachine, can u let me know the best possible combination with the plugs & wires & filter for the Vtec. Which plugs with what wires & which filter will give me the best possible blend!!
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Old 7th March 2005, 17:18   #21
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Hi Jigar,

I would recomend a VAFC - II. You can play with the fuel mixture nd shift the VTEC point so that it kicks in earlier. if budget permits, I know a guy in Srilanka who remaps the VTEC ecu. Makes a lot of difference but costs about USD 600 to remap. If you are interested bring the stock ECU to Madras when you come for the next leg.

Also if you go in for the VAFC would strongly recomend a wide band AFR unit for proper tuning.

Cheers,

Sideways.
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Old 7th March 2005, 17:33   #22
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hey just read the entire thread adn you have the WRONGhedder for yor car. it cannot have power from 4000rpm...thast a race setup you need one which starts at around 1500revs. also the fe has dropped due to this since the power starts after 4000revs you tend to drive at higher rpms in lower gear but this will not give you a drop to 8.
also i agree with sideways in regards to teh vafc-II but that at a later stage. also for 600usd i can get you a brand new ecm. remapping is done for around 200usd max.
things to check for your bad fe is:
1. HEDDER
2. plugs
3. engine compression(low compression will also will lead to drop in power and fe)
4. fuel leaks
5. clutch
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Old 7th March 2005, 17:58   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by iceman91
hey just read the entire thread adn you have the WRONGhedder for yor car. it cannot have power from 4000rpm...thast a race setup you need one which starts at around 1500revs. also the fe has dropped due to this since the power starts after 4000revs you tend to drive at higher rpms in lower gear but this will not give you a drop to 8.
also i agree with sideways in regards to teh vafc-II but that at a later stage. also for 600usd i can get you a brand new ecm. remapping is done for around 200usd max.
things to check for your bad fe is:
1. HEDDER
2. plugs
3. engine compression(low compression will also will lead to drop in power and fe)
4. fuel leaks
5. clutch
Iceman,

Sorry my fault. ECM is swapped for that much not remapped.

Cheers,

Sideways
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Old 7th March 2005, 18:21   #24
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no worries mate....happens
got me thinking if remapping is 600usd than how much is my stand alone worth in colombo
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Old 7th March 2005, 22:12   #25
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alright, i am taking da car to honda tomorrow & also to a performance shop which says they will help me out with all the problems after checking the plugs.....injectors....etc...etc.. ! So thank you so much everyone for helping. I will keep u all posted as to whats happening..!!
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Old 8th March 2005, 02:07   #26
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Iceman & Sideways are on the right track,

You would need to remap the ECU to take full advantage of such drastic changes to the exhaust system.
Also, some alterations to your intake geometry might improve the low end torque, but might also have an adverse effect on your high end.

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Old 8th March 2005, 02:24   #27
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Hey Guys, isnt it true that disconnecting the battery for some 20mins reset the ECU??? pls correct me if Im incorrect...
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Old 8th March 2005, 03:13   #28
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hey wolf,yes buddy it is true that disconnecting the battery does re-set the ecu...and what basically happens is...when you restart your car..the sensor's like the mass air flow sensor..etc ..etc...start sending different reading's to the ecu...according to the way your current driving status is..but while doing this you must be very careful..as this driving status..gets registered on the ecu..and if it is a wrong driving state...it can affect your..FE and performance drastically...that's my little bit that i knew..if there are any mistakes please do correct me...cheers....!!
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Old 8th March 2005, 03:21   #29
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How is remapping ECU different from resetting???If disconnection of battery terminals reset the ECU, then what are Iceman and sideways talking bout 200 n 600 USD's to do the same????? I think we need Dr.Dom here...to throw some light on this...Hellloww Dr. Dom...r u there????
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Old 8th March 2005, 03:27   #30
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hey wolf i am sure dom is the perfect person to look for a reply...well all i can tell you is that..remapping is basically a way more enhanced phase...its complex..and there is a lot that goes into it..what resetting the ecu does is it just picks up figures from the current mode of driving...so the ecu always reads the same way...so it could also be harmful to your car..say if your ecu was reset with your high rpm ratios...when you drive in low rpm ratio's the ecu does not adapt to that..that's when remapping comes in..because it let's the ecu adapt to different conditions...well for all the details i am sure dom will be able to help you..and like i said...if there is something wrong that i said..please do correct me...then that way i would get to learn myself.....cheers...!!
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