[pramodkumar]

Pranavt thanks for the reply, i have done a lot of research, the evo PCD is different form our indian lancer, its also 5 bolt type, which makes that un usable for me as the PCD is little rare here and getting matching wheels will be a big problem. The second problem is the availablilty bigger break boosters and braided lines, they can be imported onece but if they fail the car would be non useable for long time and unfortunately i do not have a backup. What i am talking about is spreading info about DIYs where the setups are modified to fit. Where people do a lot of trail and error and finally got it right

Originally Posted by viper

Hi,
If you read the thread on my OHC it clearly mentions why I had removed the rear discs, anyways they were reinstalled a month later and were on my car till the time I sold it few months ago. I used them for nearly 2 years with no issues.

I would however suggest investing in a big brake kit for the front in FWD cars as most of the braking is up front. It makes more sense and the kits are cheaper than a rear disc conversion.

Viper

Viper i agree that getting a bigger roter and may be slotted disks are the best cost effective option but will it be as good as a rear disc break when the machine will be upgraded to churn out more than 150 BHP? i just had a minor crash recently and the way breaks reacted that day had made me think of improving them,


Pranavt OT my intention is not to hijack your thread but to learn and clear doubts, and i find you very easy to understand



Pramod

[pranavt]

Why not try and procure the wheel hubs of the Evo and fitting them instead? If the installation is possible, I believe it would be cheaper than going for aftermarket stuff.

The bias is usually towards the front, so getting bigger rotors and better pads up front is also a good way to improve braking, and it's something I'm probably going to do along with rear-wheel disc conversion. Stock Civic parts can go at the rear, while the front can have aftermarket parts.

No worries about thread hijacks, as long as someone doesn't come here and start asking about wax polish and power horns

[Sprucegoose]

On that note, I do hope that you are planning to put a nice power horn in your ride .

On a serious note:
1> Traction Control via ECU? how does that work, aren't you missing the mechanical components necessary for it?

2> Are you considering a Variable Geometry Turbo?

3> How do you find time to do all this man?
Respect the effort & achievement.

[pranavt]

Originally Posted by Sprucegoose

On that note, I do hope that you are planning to put a nice power horn in your ride .

On a serious note:
1> Traction Control via ECU? how does that work, aren't you missing the mechanical components necessary for it?

2> Are you considering a Variable Geometry Turbo?

3> How do you find time to do all this man?
Respect the effort & achievement.

Thanks

1) There have been talks of putting in a sensor on the rear wheel hub, then comparing that with the reported speed from the VSS (and a whole lot of math) to ascertain if the front wheels are spinning in place. As long as that part is accomplished successfully, all that's left is doing an ignition/fuel/ignition&fuel cut to cut down on wheelspin until the reported speed is within reasonable limits. Quite simple to implement if you ask me, considering the kind of stuff that can already be done with these Honda ECUs and the right engine management software.

2) No VGTs, the costs would probably be prohibitive or the implementation too difficult. Will be using closed-loop electronic boost control (rpm v/s boost) to control spool time and boost pressures.

3) LOL.

[viper]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

The second problem is the availablilty bigger break boosters and braided lines, they can be imported onece but if they fail the car would be non useable for long time and unfortunately i do not have a backup.

Viper i agree that getting a bigger roter and may be slotted disks are the best cost effective option but will it be as good as a rear disc break when the machine will be upgraded to churn out more than 150 BHP? i just had a minor crash recently and the way breaks reacted that day had made me think of improving them,

Pramod

Pramod,

You do not need a bigger brake booster to install a big brake kit. Also braided lines very rarely fail/leak. The only thing that you would need is pads, other than that BBK(big brake kits) are maintenance free.

A big brake kit upfront will definitely be far better than OE discs in front and installing a rear disc conversion. Pls understand big brake kits generally come with superior quality rotors, drilled, slotted or both rotors, better pads and of course 4/6/8 piston callipers etc enhancing the front stopping substantially.

Viper

[suhaas307]

Wow! What a brilliant thread Pranav! Great work, superb illustrations and pictures!

So what's the progress on the OHC now? Have the 1000cc injectors been installed yet? I will go through the thread more keenly in sometime, any modifications undertaken to the intake/exhaust port? What about the wastegate and a turbo? What is the CR now?

[pranavt]

Thanks

As of now, the car is naturally aspirated with a CR or 9.03:1 (Assuming the stock CR was 9.1:1) after working with the combustion chamber and doing a simple resurface. The intake and exhaust ports are portmatched to the the flanges on either side and they are ported. The roofs of the ports have been opened up along with cleaning up the flow path on all sides. And finally, the exhaust ports have been treated to a mirror finish with 1000 grit sandpaper while the intake ports are polished to 150 grit. I forgot to take volume measurements of the stock intake and exhaust ports so I cannot compare those. Have asked a couple of foreign tuner friends to get back to me with those whenever they have a customer with this head. Most of the local tuners are either ignorant about this or do not wish to share this trivial information.

The turbocharging will happen a few months from now once I'm tired with NA and have all the components ready with me. Will most probably go with some Precision 57/60 trim turbo which fits my needs and is efficient enough.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by viper

Pramod,

You do not need a bigger brake booster to install a big brake kit. Also braided lines very rarely fail/leak. The only thing that you would need is pads, other than that BBK(big brake kits) are maintenance free.

A big brake kit upfront will definitely be far better than OE discs in front and installing a rear disc conversion. Pls understand big brake kits generally come with superior quality rotors, drilled, slotted or both rotors, better pads and of course 4/6/8 piston callipers etc enhancing the front stopping substantially.

Viper

Hey viper, thanks for your answers and Pranavt sorry for hijacking this thread again.

@Viper, can the normal discs be drilled and slotted using a CNC machine and if yes how successfull is this mod, amey has posted some images of such a mod in his thread, i read somewhere single piston calipers are a more efficient design, is it true, also there is something called emergancy cable operated breaking, is this a modable job or do we have to buy rotters that support those.

Thanks in advance

Pramod

[pranavt]

Be my guest. This will benefit me too.

Also, heading out to to get a new intake setup done in CNC. Should be the first of its kind in India I suppose; ITBs + Turbocharger

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by pranavt

Be my guest. This will benefit me too.

Also, heading out to to get a new intake setup done in CNC. Should be the first of its kind in India I suppose; ITBs + Turbocharger

I have little idea about ITB, do you have any links or refrences? And any change in milage, i hope its not heading south . BTW i have plans to pickup used roters and try getting them slotted and drilled and find out their effectiveness, then do it on a new roter.

Pramod

[Sprucegoose]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

I have little idea about ITB, do you have any links or refrences? And any change in milage, i hope its not heading south . BTW i have plans to pickup used roters and try getting them slotted and drilled and find out their effectiveness, then do it on a new roter.

Pramod

Read somewhere that drilling / slotting rotors reduces structural integrity. Go for drilled / slotted rotors only if they are cast like that.

Drilling holes created micro fractures.

Again, this is what i read somewhere.
Don't remember where though.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by Sprucegoose

Read somewhere that drilling / slotting rotors reduces structural integrity. Go for drilled / slotted rotors only if they are cast like that.

Drilling holes created micro fractures.

Again, this is what i read somewhere.
Don't remember where though.

You are absolutely right, the structural rigidity will be less, I do not think it will so less that it can turn dangerous. But lets hear it from the horses mouth. I dont think slotted rotors are cast that way. They are shapped that way on a CNC machine.

Pramod

[Akshay1234]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

You are absolutely right, the structural rigidity will be less, I do not think it will so less that it can turn dangerous. But lets hear it from the horses mouth. I dont think slotted rotors are cast that way. They are shapped that way on a CNC machine.

Pramod

i have heard too that drilling or slotting stock rotors is not safe. and the brakes are the last thing i would want to mess with.

[pramodkumar]

Originally Posted by akshay1234

i have heard too that drilling or slotting stock rotors is not safe. and the brakes are the last thing i would want to mess with.

True, But one guy here has been there done that, i am eager to see his feedback on it.

Pramod

[pranavt]

Originally Posted by pramodkumar

I have little idea about ITB, do you have any links or refrences? And any change in milage, i hope its not heading south . BTW i have plans to pickup used roters and try getting them slotted and drilled and find out their effectiveness, then do it on a new roter.

Pramod

Mileage?

ITBs = Individual Throttle Bodies. One throttle body per cylinder (42mm per TB in my case) as opposed to one throttle body for all the cylinders, (54mm stock in OHC VTEC I think). Pretty much the peak in Natural Aspiration when combined with the right cams and high compression ported heads.

Throttle - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia This article should be a start. Search for ITBs on Google Pics for more pics. (individual throttle bodies - Google Search)