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Old 18th July 2005, 12:04   #1
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Default E-Air ioniser

Came across this accessory on Saturday at Forum.
The pamphlet says that this emits -ve ions which will neutralize all pollutants, bacteria and suspended particles inside the car.

Would like to know if anyone has used this and if it is beneficial.

The price quoted was Rs. ~3000/- for a pair at Autoshop, Koramangala.
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Old 18th July 2005, 12:25   #2
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You can probable go to SJP road and get the kit for 112rs. All you need is a box to house it in and some kind of mobile phone charger along with a DC-AC convertor. the entire thing if you get it assembled from the electronic guys there will cost about 300 bucks though it wont look good like the commercial ones do.
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Old 18th July 2005, 15:10   #3
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thanks tsk1979

Is this gadget beneficial or is it just a load of marketing spiel?
Has anyone used this and found a marked difference in the air quality?

While on the subject of in-car health, does anyone have any tips about keeping the windows non-fogged AND not freezing to death while driving in the rains? Have fallen ill twice already in 2 months because of driving with the AC on in the rains.
And this is after about 5 yrs of no illness inspite of biking in rain and shine.
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Old 18th July 2005, 15:21   #4
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Switch on the AC but switch on the heater also so that the temparature is no very cold. AC dries the windshield because cold air from AC is extremely dry. So using combination works just fine. You have to find the thermostat setting slightly off towards cool from center.

About the ionizer it is useful in dusty conditions, but you will really feel the effect only if you are asthamatic or allergic to pollens/dust. In a normal scenario you will just feel a minor improvement in air quality.
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Old 18th July 2005, 15:26   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by xezas
While on the subject of in-car health, does anyone have any tips about keeping the windows non-fogged AND not freezing to death while driving in the rains?
Searched a lot about this cause I too have the very same problem!!!
The only "de-humidifiers" that I found were basically the AC running to dry the air, and at the same time, the car heater also turned on to warm the cold ac air to comfortable temperatures.

Unfortunately, I don't have a heater in the contessa!!!
I would love some tips on fitting one into the ventilation system... DIY preferred.
Its currently fitted with a SuperKing blower.
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Old 18th July 2005, 15:39   #6
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If you go to an AC mechanic they offer a way to use the engine heat to heat the car. The "Jugaad" used to cost 500rs about 5 years ago on a 118NE with a desi AC and blower.
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Old 18th July 2005, 16:10   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsk1979
If you go to an AC mechanic they offer a way to use the engine heat to heat the car. The "Jugaad" used to cost 500rs about 5 years ago on a 118NE with a desi AC and blower.
Thanks.... will do that.
But wondering, if you use the car heat, hope that does not mean letting in the fumes as well... and can we stop the heat whenever we want to ? Also, what about controlling the heat being let in ?

Whats a "Jugaad" ?
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Old 18th July 2005, 16:20   #8
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that system worked pretty effectively, and yes you could put it on and off. It was just that it was "on" and "off". You could not control the amount of hear, pretty much like an AC without a thermostat, but it worked pretty well without fumes etc.,

As for a jugaad, it is a kludge or a hack, depending on how well it is executed.
Kludge : http://www.webopedia.com/TERM/K/kludge.html
Hack : http://www.webopedia.com/TERM/K/hack.html

For example the Intercooler on Indigo is a kludge, however the fitting of a Electronic fuel pump to control emissions is a hack
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Old 18th July 2005, 19:01   #9
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Smile Jugaad and more..

@tsk1979
Sweet. Very sweet - Excellent definitions there for the colloquially popular "Jugaad".

@xezas
Once the physics behind the phenomenon of misting-on-the-inside of the windscreen is understood, you can try any Jugaad which suits you.

Two or three things to keep in mind here - Dew Point, Relative Humidity (RH) and ambient temps (both on the outside aka o/s and inside). Here goes;

Dew Point - The term ‘Dew point Temperature’ is a measure of moisture in a gas, and refers to the temperature at which dew will form (condensation will take place) i.e. in a very dry gas the temperature will have to be very low before dew appears, conversely in a humid atmosphere dew forms easily at higher temperatures itself and makes things miserable, for instance within a bathroom and in your case, driving during rains.

Now, Condensation only occurs where the surface temperature of the windshield drops (due drop in o/s air temp and wind speed attacking the windscreen) and this temp is now right for the cabin air to condense on the wind screen. In rains, the o/s air gets a higher RH and is moisture laden and the h2o molecules effortlessly spoil your vision! Also, with the same o/s air coming inside the cabin plus passengers (more the pax, more the body heat and more humid the air on exhaling), things can get nasty.
So, either leave the windows open to bring the temperature of the air in-line with the temperature of the windscreen (and lotsa water too!!) or increase the capacity of the air to evaporate the condensed moisture, by increasing it's temperature and getting as much dry air as possible (using the AirCon) in the cabin.

What really bends the noodle is the fact that with the thermostat at midway, the Aircon comp might not cut-in enough to really get rid of the moisture (used as a refrigerated dryer) and with it at full cooling, the cabin temp can get very uncomfortable. To crack open the window at this stage defies the whole exercise as the moisture bin laden air comes right back in! Hit-and-try method with constant tinkering the control is what is required to get it right. All you need is just a little patience....patience.

The simple aim of the exercise is to get the Cabin air as dry as possible and the windscreen temp all also as low as possible so that even high RH air is unable to condense on the screen.

On merchant and passenger ships, this problem is very common and is called Ship/Cargo sweat depending on where the moisture condenses. For inside the accommodation, we just use a giant refrigerating dryer/AC, a large moisture filter and also Oil based heaters to get the air temp back to as close at 24 degs as is possible (24 deg or so is regarded as the most optimum temp for humans).

Hope that helps.

Cheers
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Old 19th July 2005, 11:36   #10
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@XSailor
Thanks for the Physics 101
You rock!

Was talking to a friend of mine in Pune last night and he suggested that I put in window sleeves that cover the top part of the windows such that leaving the windows open a notch will not let the water seep in. This, in addition to a suitable setting on the thermostat will help in keeping the windows clear.
There, that's another simple, yet efficient, jugaad.
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Old 30th July 2005, 02:12   #11
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hi i dont think keepin an optimum thermo along with the glass rolled down will solve the problem because as xsailor said the aim is too get the cabin as dry as posssible this can be achived by using the heating or cooling (keeping the vent closed) .!!
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Old 21st August 2005, 02:03   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speed0mania
hi i dont think keepin an optimum thermo along with the glass rolled down will solve the problem because as xsailor said the aim is too get the cabin as dry as posssible this can be achived by using the heating or cooling (keeping the vent closed) .!!
XSailor mentions that the temperature inside and outside the car should be equalized to avoid condensation. You need to get the cabin dry only when there is a temperature difference. Equalising the temperature can be achieved very easily by lowering the glass. The only other problem is the water seepage which can be taken care of by the sleeve.
As far as 'jugaad's go, this is pretty neat.
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Old 20th May 2008, 11:37   #13
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ya even i was thinking on the same lines to get that rain deflector installed
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Old 8th November 2012, 20:24   #14
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Default Re: E-Air ioniser

A bunch of new Ionizers(marketed as car air-purifier/ oxygen bar) are available on e-bay. These are designed for 12V operation and fit into the cigarrate lighter.

Any reviews on the same?

I am planning a complete HVAC DIY opening and cleaning and plan to connect this ionizer permanently after blower motor to kill the musty smells form AC. I copying this technique from Hyundai's new Cluster Ionization Clean air principle.
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