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Old 12th May 2008, 17:09   #46
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Here is how this is done
You need 1 kill switch which will kill the ignition while supplying some current to a sparkplug that you will install at the edge of your tail pipe ... now when you want flames you will hit the hill switch while pumping the gas... this will cause the excess fuel to go out your tail pine and voila flames... word of caution this will / can destroy a catalyic converter
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Old 12th May 2008, 18:49   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by whatcanthisbe View Post
Here is how this is done
You need 1 kill switch which will kill the ignition while supplying some current to a sparkplug that you will install at the edge of your tail pipe ... now when you want flames you will hit the hill switch while pumping the gas... this will cause the excess fuel to go out your tail pine and voila flames... word of caution this will / can destroy a catalyic converter



it's not as easy as cake bro !!! what do u expect that if u rev hard then the unburnt fuel will go that long way till the end of the pipe n does spark plug can ignite without the ignition coil ??


There's a whole DIy setup needed and i have done it you can see the posted video by me which was clicked by me itself n that too not the Kit available through any dealer !!

WE made it here in Delhi itself n m4ugr8 was seeing that live , n believe me if u do a single thing wrong i must assure you you will blow up your ride's cat converter or ignition sensors or coils !!!


It costed me 1.5k only!!!!

Last edited by yayaati : 12th May 2008 at 18:50. Reason: typo mistake
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Old 12th May 2008, 18:55   #48
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Such things are not street legal in countries like US.And the risk of damage to your car is also high.Frankly such things are best left in the movies (seen Fast and the Furious).
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Old 12th May 2008, 19:01   #49
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ramie2400 View Post
Where do we get this kit in india??
Electra Performance of Chennai sells Flame Thrower. For more detail please look at the link below:
Electra Performane -Products
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Old 12th May 2008, 20:33   #50
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hey man this is absolutely cool...but its a waste when u guys say its gonna destroy the catalic converter and those ignition sensors...

OFF TOPIC :
@m4ugr8
thanks for those videos man..they were absolutely cool..
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Old 12th May 2008, 20:33   #51
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yayaati View Post

WE made it here in Delhi itself n m4ugr8 was seeing that live , n believe me if u do a single thing wrong i must assure you you will blow up your ride's cat converter or ignition sensors or coils !!!


It costed me 1.5k only!!!!
I agree, when i read the instruction shown to me by him, It seemed very easy, Just mount a switch connect to the Spark plug and done, but it is NOT SIMPLE AT ALL!!!

Me with the help of an Engineer from DCE,and yayaati started the
work in the afternoon and it got completed by late evening.
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Old 12th May 2008, 21:24   #52
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Maybe the cars in the fast n furious had flame throwers!!

IMO forget the cosmetics!! drive a car and tune it for performance (slightly richer side), revv match and downshift, the car would throw flames from your exhaust.

This is my opinion would be better!

Cheers,
Shrey
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Old 12th May 2008, 23:24   #53
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nikil @tvm tbhp did it once. DIY job.
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Old 13th May 2008, 10:16   #54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by yayaati View Post
it's not as easy as cake bro !!! what do u expect that if u rev hard then the unburnt fuel will go that long way till the end of the pipe n does spark plug can ignite without the ignition coil ??


There's a whole DIy setup needed and i have done it you can see the posted video by me which was clicked by me itself n that too not the Kit available through any dealer !!

WE made it here in Delhi itself n m4ugr8 was seeing that live , n believe me if u do a single thing wrong i must assure you you will blow up your ride's cat converter or ignition sensors or coils !!!


It costed me 1.5k only!!!!
Dude what i wrote was a quick reply
I have done this setup on a V8 big block here is a detailed write up





Things You’ll Need:

8g black wire
8g red wire
sparkplug cord
grinder
switch
2 parkplugs per exhaust

Cut out your muffler and catalytic converter if you have them and install a straight exhaust pipe were it's needed.

Grind an area on your exhaust before the headers to clear rust for a clean surface and drill a small hole in the tiny area you cleared. Insert a small screw with a piece of black wire and attach the other end to your chassis using the same method.

Repeat the previous step half way down your exhaust toward the tail pipe.
Step6Grind all around the pipe 8 inches from your exhaust tip(s). Mark tubing in half for measuring. On both halves of your exhaust mark a circle almost the same size of your spark plugs. Drill these holes out using the proper bit.

IfYou drilled your holes correctly you now should be able to screw in both of your plugs with out a leak or slippage.

Using a light inside the tail pipe make sure your plug fingers are open toward the back of your vehicle.

Attach a spark-plug cord to each plug and at the opposite end of each cord attach a red wire. If you have multiple wires you will need a collection box to make them all into one big one.

Trail a long red wire from your collection box into your cabin and connect it to the (-) portion of your switch.

Install your switch somewhere in your vehicle that makes you comfortable.

Connect a second long red wire to the (+) portion of your switch and lead it to your fuse box and plug it into the (batt 1) spot, or if you want to make it easier you can plug this wire straight to your positive terminal on your battery.

That's all it is to it. With the proper ground and proper power source this system will shoot flames. The spark plugs ignite the carbons in your engines waste which causes flames.

Last edited by whatcanthisbe : 13th May 2008 at 10:20.
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Old 13th May 2008, 10:21   #55
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This particular set is for dual exhaust, thus two resistors and transistors. If
you're running a single pipe, then you can omit one of each of these
components and just wire up a single.
NOTE: This will NOT work for FI or EFI!

Parts List:

1. One Aluminum Project Enclosure measures 2-3/4 x 2-1/8 x
1-5/8 inches. You might look for a larger one as this was a bit small.


2. Two 2N3055 Power Transistors


3. Two Transistor Mounting Hardware Kits for TO-3 style case
4. Two 220-ohm 1/2-watt Resistors


5. One 30-amp Automotive style relay. You need the 5-terminal relay (see below), which
my local Radio Shack didn't have (they only had four teminal relays). If yours
doesn't carry it, check your local phone book for another electronics store or
a car stereo store.

6. One small tube of Heat Sink Compound. .

7. A few small terminal ends to fit the 6-32 mounting screws.

8. Some colored wire. I used 16 guage.

Figure out where you're going to mount everything inside the box so that
nothing clashes and you have enough room to maneuver a soldering iron.
Use an insulator from the mounting kit as a template to mark the case, then
drill the case for the transistors. The mounting kit will have two plastic
shoulder washers that go into the mounting holes from the inside. This keeps
the mounting screws from grounding to the case. Consult the back of the
mounting kit package for instructions. Use heat sink compound on both sides
of the insulator, this helps transfer heat from the transistors to the case. A
little dab'll do ya.

The transistors have two pins on the underside: One called 'base' the other,
'emitter'. The third element of the transistor is called the 'collector' and is
tied into the transistor case, hence the wires that attach to the mounting
screws. Consult the back of the package for pin configuration.




Here's the case with the transistors mounted with one screw each. I put
heat sink compound on either side of the insulators before mounting the
transistors. The pins are offset to one end and the arrow indicates the
direction of the offset. This matters only for identifying which pin is which. It
also matters which direction the resistors point. The red stripe should be
closest to the transistor, while the gold stripe is facing the relay. Solder the
'red' end of the resistor to the 'base' pin on the transistor. Solder a length of
wire (six inches long or so) to the 'emitter' pin on the transistor (green wire
in photo). These wires will run out of the box to the + side of the coils.



Mount the relay. I used 3M Weatherstrip Adhesive (black), but silicone or
epoxy would work too. Make sure you mount it in a direction that will allow
your wires to run to their proper terminals. Cut off the relay mounting tab if
needed.

The gold end of the resistors thread through the hole in terminal 86 on the
relay and attach to terminal 87a at the center of the relay. I bent a little
hook into the tip of the resistor lead and put it through the hole in terminal
87a. Solder both leads to both terminals.

Make a split-harness (orange wire in photo, again about 6 inches in length)
and mount the terminal ends. This is the power wire for the flamethrowers
and will also run outside the case to the relay up front. Make a single wire
(black in photo) with a terminal end to attach to one mounting screw, the
other end is soldered to terminal 30 on the relay. Install the mounting screws
with the orange and black wires installed. The black wire only needs to go to
one transistor.



Making a split harness: (top) strip a section of insulator and twist a second
piece of wire into it. Solder the joint and protect with heat-shrink tubing. OR
(bottom) make a simple one with 3 pieces of wire and a butt connector (you
can also twist the three together and solder them).




Here are the solder joints where the resistors attach to the relay.



Solder a piece of wire (six inches or so) to terminal 85 on the relay (yellow
wire in photo) for chassis ground.
To mount the thing in the car, you can either drill and mount the empty half
of the box, then assemble the other half onto it or get some small L brackets
from the hardware store. You should also use a grommet for the hole that
the wires pass through to prevent shorts. I also put a zip tie on the wires
inside the box to keep them from being pulled out and bending the transistor
pins to ground on the box.

Wiring for this unit and my kooky discount-table-wire colors is:
yellow: ground
orange: power from switch
green: flamethrower coil +


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



To wire up the triggering relay, you'll also need a 5-terminal relay. First, disconnect the
ignition wire that goes to the engine. If you have a ballast resistor, disconnect the wire
from the input side. NOT the side that goes to the coil, the other one. If you don't have
a ballast, just disconnect from coil+.

The numbers relate to the terminal numbers on the bottom of the relay.

85 -chassis ground

86 -switch. this can be just about any kind of switch you want. I used a momentary on
pushbutton. Don't worry about size either, it only has to fire the relay and doesn't carry
heavy amperage -that's the relay's job. The other terminal on the switch itself goes to a
power source.

30 -to ignition (the key) switch. This terminal powers the relay. If you mount the relay in
the engine room, you can disconnect the coil+ wire and put it here.

87 -to the electronics. This terminal is normally off. It comes on when the relay is
triggered to fire the 'throwers.

87a -to the coil+ (or ballast resistor) on the engine. This terminal is normally on and goes
off when the relay is triggered.

Terminal 30 would normally be connected to battery, but since you want to be able to
shut off the engine at the end of the day, you use the wire from the ignition switch.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



Your local muffler shop should carry bungs to weld into the pipes to hold spark plugs. gap
em right up to .080. You can also use anti fouling tips from the auto parts store. cut off
the outside threads and enough metal to expose the plug tip. Be sure to leave enough
inside threads for the plug to screw into.

You must ground the flamethrower coil- to chassis ground! I know it doesn't make sense,
but that's how this setup works.


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

To light em. drive around the 'hood to warm up the pipes. They have to be warm for it to
work. Rev it to neighborhood of 3000 (whatever you're comfortable with) hit the switch
and pump the pedal. be sure to lift your foot, then let go of the button before the engine
winds down. Works good at cruising speed too.

Also, these will increase/accelerate engine wear. You're pumping raw fuel through the
engine and it washes down the cylinder walls and contaminates your oil. Change it more
often. It'll kill a catalytic converter and doesn't work with fuel injection since the
injection shuts off when you kill the engine

Last edited by whatcanthisbe : 13th May 2008 at 10:23.
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Old 13th May 2008, 11:15   #56
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Here's Another video, This time its a dual Flame thrower!!!

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Old 13th May 2008, 11:16   #57
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Holy,thats alot of work man nice DIY whatcanthisbe..Thanks for sharing,I am sure it will be helpfull for some of them cheers...

Ramie
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Old 13th May 2008, 12:34   #58
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SORRY TO interupt. but one question arises in my mind is that if u are at a fuel station and u suddenly accelerate and a flame is thrown out. isnt it dangerous?
i am saying this because one day while filling fuel in my bike the luna in front of me started and there was a "fattrrr" sound from the exhaust and suddenly there was a big flame which lasted only for few milliseconds.
i was so horrified , all would have blown up if there were more fuel vapours in air.
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Old 13th May 2008, 12:39   #59
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At the rate the fuel prices are climbing, I wonder why would any one would want to burn precious fuel outside the IC engine!!
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Old 14th May 2008, 10:57   #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaush666 View Post
OFF TOPIC :
@m4ugr8
thanks for those videos man..they were absolutely cool..
Thanks Bro, Appreciated!!!!
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