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| | #151 (permalink) | ||
| Senior - BHPian Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: India
Posts: 1,724
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Engine temp(not EGT) so far has been fine. stays at the same level as it was when the car was stock. I dont do sustained high speed runs anyway. But like you said, I'm constantly watching the engine temp gauge. Where should the EGT be measured? at the tailpipe, or higher upstream? Are there after market gauges that can be used for that? How straightforward is it to install one? | ||
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| | #152 (permalink) |
| BHPian Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Cochin
Posts: 26
| hi there everybody, i drive a 1992 80 series toyota LC 4200cc non turbo version... i guess i have 116 odd bhp on the tap, the injectors are cleaned every 50,000kms, but i hav'nt let anyone touch the fuel pump, i really cant trust anyone with it.. i am planning to fix an aftermarket turbo charger to the engine, how do i find out what kind to get??? different people have told me different specs... kinda now!!! help me out pleeeez SAUD... |
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| | #153 (permalink) | ||
| BHPian Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Atlanta
Posts: 165
| Quote:
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I have not driven any manual diesels. All of the ones I've driven are trucks (pick-up trucks), but the transmission temperature is of concern with elevated power levels. The torque converter can slip too much which elevates temperatures quickly. Remember that these chips make power by taxing the fuel delivery system. I'm sure the manufacturor has though of this, but it something to keep in mind. Your turbo can blow more air but it may be at the cost of efficiency. Your best bet is to install a decent CAI and make sure your exhaust isn't too restrictive. Turbo diesels move a LOT of air and they need large exhaust systems. What do you drive, and whats the stock boost in your car? Any idea? The engine temp is just your coolant temp - and that tells you nothing about EGTs. You can install it right before the turbo or right after. If you install it after the turbo, remember that there is a good 100+ drop as the turbo extracts energy from the exhaust. I don't know anything about the engine you're running so you should probably ask someone else about operating temperatures. Typically you want to stay below 1200*F/650*C | ||
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| | #154 (permalink) |
| BHPian | @Atlblkz6 I believe derestricting the exhaust system with larger dia intermediate pipes etc wont help quite a bit would it? The turbo uses most of the exhaust gases right? Plus the exhaust note is going to be horrible. And if the headers are not re-designed accurately then quite a few things will go for a toss...:-D
__________________ AbhiK =Made Like A Gun ----> Runs Like A BULLET= |
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| | #155 (permalink) |
| Senior - BHPian Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: India
Posts: 1,724
| @atlblkz06 Thank you for the detailed replies. I drive the 1.3 Fiat MJD with a FGTurbo,The 1.5 litre CRDi from hyundai and the 2.5 litre TDCi from ford. Its a manual. I Have added the PSI tuning box and a CAI to the 1.3 litre fiat engine,which helps a lot but the car really suffers when the ambient temperatures are high(Noon and evening). But am stuck when it comes to exhaust options. I've been told that modifying the exhaust in a turbo diesel is not practical/possible in india. ![]() I do know that the power improvement from water injection comes indirectly from the cooling effect, but had no idea that the ratio was as high as 90/10. Any good links where I can read up more? I did enquire about propane injection, and there are a few members on this forum who have pulled it off succesfully, but they have used the system in the older gen indirect injection engines. Pardon me, but what is a DD? Yes, i think you can safely classify me as a nut! ![]() |
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| | #158 (permalink) | ||||
| BHPian Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Atlanta
Posts: 165
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![]() I'm really waiting for some "Fast and Furious" type of movie to hit Bollywood. I'm sure boosting cars will gain mainstream acceptance and the market will change. In the US, Holley's sales apparently shot up by several hundred % points after the first F&F movie was released. (They own the NOS trademark) Unfortunately this will also sharply increase the number of dumbasses on the road trying to show off in their riced out cars, but thats life I guess. | ||||
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| | #159 (permalink) | ||
| BHPian | Quote:
I am guessing a 2"-2.5" dia pipe should be fine. You dont want to disturb the pulse flow do you! With wide pipes. Likewise with me bro. But i have an inpression that it might turn out to sound like a truck.Quote:
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__________________ AbhiK =Made Like A Gun ----> Runs Like A BULLET= | ||
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| | #161 (permalink) | ||
| Senior - BHPian Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: India
Posts: 1,724
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Gaaawd, we need better tuners in this country Measuring the IAT is not going to be difficult, I hope? just need an industrial thermometer or something that can be secured to the end of the CAI pipe right? | ||
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| | #162 (permalink) | |
| BHPian Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Atlanta
Posts: 165
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Upgrading your intercooler is a very safe mod. As long as you pick a good high quality unit and put it in a safe place, you cant really go wrong. Honestly, you're in a very small market and you cant start looking for a proven track record with mods either. If a proven system was already there - someone would have put their name on it and they'd be selling it to you with 50% markup Look at what people are doing with other cars and plan accordingly. Of course in the long run there are risks.Just make sure you have a long term plan - don't buy mods randomly. You have to plan ahead so they all work together and synergize the results to your advantage. | |
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| | #163 (permalink) | ||
| Senior - BHPian Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: India
Posts: 1,724
| Quote:
DOH! Didnt think about that. Thanks for the tip. Time to maska the friendly neighbourhood MASS.Quote:
Is the OBD also taking reading of the temp of the air after the intercooler? Useful advice, will keep it in mind. | ||
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| | #164 (permalink) | |
| BHPian Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Atlanta
Posts: 165
| Quote:
Bends in the the intercooler piping aren't a huge concern since the tubing is large, and the bends are smooth. Intercooler placement is quite important. Top mount intercoolers typically dont work as well as Front Mount InterCoolers (FMIC) so if your car has an intercooler up top, move it up front. You know - if you spend a little money to come up with the exact dimensions of a replacement unit - you can create a "package" and sell it on forums like these and make money. Forum sales is big business in the states.If you can take some detailed pics of your car and maybe start a new project thread, it'd be cool. good luck with it! | |
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| | #165 (permalink) | ||
| BHPian | Quote:
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An FMIC set-up will use more plumbing than a top-mounted set-up. But you would of-course have to build an air-scoop for it. A Top-mounted set-up w.r.t the Swift 1.3 DDiS would make more sense as the distance from the IC to the turbo and headers would be shorter, unless the turbo is located closer to the mid of the block near the bumpers in which case FMIC works best. The point is shortest plumbing=less lag. And thats what you should be looking for,the boost will still be the same. In-short it'll still do the same top-end maybe a little more but it'll get you there faster. SMIC on the other hand does need dedicated air-vents to operate with optimum efficiency. Its not such in the Swift. Maybe a reason for that is Indian conditions where there is a lot of dust to deal with. @rippergeo you could try to mount the stock IC in a FMIC set-up and see if it makes a difference, then go in for a bigger IC accordingly. I would say since the Swift uses a FGT go in for a boost controller and up the boost to increase the performance. They probably cost the same as a tuning box. And you will see a good difference in performance across the rev range.
__________________ AbhiK =Made Like A Gun ----> Runs Like A BULLET= | ||
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