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Old 19th May 2007, 15:07   #16
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BTW we all forgot about damping. Anyway the ICE forum now has a thread just for this.

The enviroment in the car needs to be damped, isolated and deadened.

Various products help from butyl rubber based sheet (doors, trunk and under carpet) to spray ons (great for underbody). You can never have too dead an enviroment in a car. What with so much acoustically live glass area. So my suggestion is to damp like it is going out of style!
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Old 25th May 2007, 03:12   #17
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Hi there.,

Been reading a lot of the posts now that I a retired person and some time to my self. What has come to the fore is that there is a lot of first hand knowledge out there that is not being used properly for the benefit of the Brother's and sisters (I hope there are ladies interested in cars as well) out in the BHP world. There should be a thread just for the gurus who give a listing of what was fitted, why it was chosen, how it was fitted, how long it took to fit, how hard or easy it was to fit, HOW MUCH IT COST TO FIT, and where the hardware was bought all with pictures. In this way there should be a benefit for us in as much that these supplier will realise that it is in there own benefit to give a good and fair service for them to be mentioned in such a forum. And this thread over time would come a very powerful reference point for us that dreaming of that great sounding ICE. I am a great believer in market forces and to get a better service from our retailers then we should hold them to account and praise them when are good and belittle them when they are not. From a Lot of the posts there is a fear of getting shoddy goods and services and maybe some of the home grown and some multi national will learn to give warranty that is worth the paper it is written
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Old 25th May 2007, 04:05   #18
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Hi supernova!

There is such a thread (well almost) where people discuss what they bought, how much they paid for the equipment, pictures of the fitting.

here, take a look with your own eye's.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/sound-...hat-price.html

Last edited by Sam Kapasi : 25th May 2007 at 04:07.
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Old 25th May 2007, 04:46   #19
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Hi There
I had a Look at that. But I trying to say is that the gurus are the ones who are fitting them and they can by virtue of their job give a experts opinion on that fitting. With a few comments on how the system sounded in that car. We are only going to sample 1/2/3 cars were you are fitting and testing, after the fit that everything is right, the QUALITY 10/20/30 or more cars and your opinion carries a bit more weight. We the punter will normally give a biased view, slanted to our thinking and pocket, where as the gurus are not they are just fitting what the client has asked and some times we get it wrong no. From your own experience how times is that true.
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Old 18th July 2007, 14:10   #20
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any idea about how blaupunk markets low end component speakers ? can they actually be called compos or are they just a speaker + tweeter set since they do not come with a crossover. i have one such set in my car and it cost me 2.4k
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Old 13th August 2007, 15:36   #21
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Gurujis, I still don't understand the concept of ohms in subwoofers.
Can someone explain in layman terms?
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Old 21st November 2007, 21:41   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitrous View Post
Gurujis, I still don't understand the concept of ohms in subwoofers.
Can someone explain in layman terms?
ohm's law is the relationship between power, current, volts, and resistance. ohms as commonly used is a unit of measurement for electrical resistance. wiki it... you won't understand until you know what the other terms mean.

for layman's use... if an amp makes 100w @ 4 ohms, and is 2 ohm stable, it will usually be rated for 200w @ 2 ohms. (lesser the resistance, more the power) so a 2 ohm subwoofer connected will give more power.. 200w... whereas a 4 ohm subwoofer will give only 100w. and a 4 ohm DVC with coils connected in parallel will be at 2 ohms and will give 200w.

if you have multiple woofers and amps that go low upto 1 ohm... you can play around. but one should also consider the specs of the subwoofer... they vary at different ohms. and not all amps can drive such low loads of resistance. typically an amp that's 1 ohm stable or 1/2 ohm stable will cost much much more. however it will have nearly twice to 4 times the sound output and also drain the battery much much less. say if the above amp were 1 ohm stable... it would probably be rated 400w @ 1 ohm.
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Old 30th November 2007, 01:30   #23
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wow this is definitely a great effort...really helpful
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Old 2nd December 2007, 10:55   #24
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Guruji's if i am wrong please ignore it.There are so many diffierence in installing SPL setup and SQ setup. For that Guruji's have any comments.Comments like selecting speakers,subwoofers,HU,Cables.
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Old 12th August 2011, 13:45   #25
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Lightbulb Re: ARTICLE: The Team-BHP Guide to ADVANCED Car Audio

Quote:
Originally Posted by montyguru View Post
ohm's law is the relationship between power, current, volts, and resistance. ohms as commonly used is a unit of measurement for electrical resistance. wiki it... you won't understand until you know what the other terms mean.

for layman's use... if an amp makes 100w @ 4 ohms, and is 2 ohm stable, it will usually be rated for 200w @ 2 ohms. (lesser the resistance, more the power) so a 2 ohm subwoofer connected will give more power.. 200w... whereas a 4 ohm subwoofer will give only 100w. and a 4 ohm DVC with coils connected in parallel will be at 2 ohms and will give 200w.

if you have multiple woofers and amps that go low upto 1 ohm... you can play around. but one should also consider the specs of the subwoofer... they vary at different ohms. and not all amps can drive such low loads of resistance. typically an amp that's 1 ohm stable or 1/2 ohm stable will cost much much more. however it will have nearly twice to 4 times the sound output and also drain the battery much much less. say if the above amp were 1 ohm stable... it would probably be rated 400w @ 1 ohm.
Fair enough. Nicely explained 'montyguru', thank you for the same .
But its pretty simple, Ohm's Law states that V = IR. 'V' is your voltage, 'I' is your current and 'R' is the Resistance in Ohms.
Relevance to car ICEs and woofers / sub-woofers is that the resistance should be as low as possible for the sound output to be louder, deeper and clearer, in short. But this would have two major disadvantages:

1. The current value will have to go up. Hence, it'll be a huge drain on your car battery. Please check the power / voltage usage of the system + speakers (all of them combined) + amplifier (if any) + woofer / sub woofer (if any) and the bass tube (if any). All these combined should be well inside the permissible levels (not even on the brink) for your car battery. Please check the rating of your respective battery for the same.

2. The lower the resistance rating (in ohms) of the electronic device the more expensive it is . An off hand comparison is - for the Creative 2.1 sub woofers, the resistance rating is 7-8.5 ohms (depending on the model) and the cost is from Rs. 850/- to Rs. 1,400/- whereas for the Bose 2.1 sound system, the resistance rating is 0.34 - 1.2 ohms (depending on the model) and the cost is anything in the range of Rs. 23,500/- upwards. hehe.

Make your choices wisely. Take care.
- sid
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Old 2nd September 2013, 16:56   #26
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Im a music composer, the info here helped me a lot to have a great sound reproduction system in my gypsy. Thankyou guys...
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Old 19th December 2014, 18:03   #27
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Your stock audio system of your car(if it has one) is usually routed through the ignition key relay through a fuse(mostly 20A i guess) models with key-less entry too have a similar kind of arrangement .
I wouldn't recommend anyone to directly plug any aftermarket electrical system wires directly to the battery.
Reason: the battery will be subject to drain as the parked car will still be supplying the stand-by power for the amplifier.


Make sure to take the relay's maximum ampere limit and your fuse ratings(found in your owners manual) into consideration when you connect high power amplifiers (especially for subwoofers).
(Reason : your audio wiring harnesses have their ratings as per the stock audio requirement (in budget cars and even in cars up to 10 lakhs)).
Violating these may cause overheating of your wiring harnesses with an increased risk of fire hazard.

Note: If your aftermarket system demands more amperes then you can do the following.
The relay+fuse box(Under the hood near the vicinity of your battery lies a small black box with a removable top lid. This contains most of the relays and fuses and also has additional slots for extra relays and fuses (use them for your electrical mods wisely) .

Additionally consider upgrading your battery's Ah (amp-hour) if necessary.
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Old 22nd October 2015, 23:50   #28
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Default Re: ARTICLE: The Team-BHP Guide to ADVANCED Car Audio

I have Skoda Rapid and like the OEM HU but updated all speakers to Rocford punch P1675.

Now wish to get subwoofer and have shortlisted Blaupunkt 300A, one reason to get this is that don't want too many extra wires in car. Is this woofer good also MRP is 25k but getting for 17.5k, is that good price?

Link for woofer http://www.blaupunkt.com/us/nc/produ...s/single/4243/

Mods remove if incorrect place to ask price check.

Last edited by heydj : 22nd October 2015 at 23:51.
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Old 23rd October 2015, 17:32   #29
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Today got a really good quote for Blaupunkt Blue Magic 300A sub-woofer, now waiting for advice from experts here.

I don't want too many things installed in the car hence going for powered sub-woofer. With the setup mentioned by me earlier kindly confirm how good/bad this choice of woofer is.

Any other suggestions on powered woofer also welcome.
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