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Old 21st June 2011, 15:36   #256
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Default re: The Royal Enfield Mechanics Thread: All mechanics requirements and queries here

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Originally Posted by jeeva View Post
I had a short stint in Gurgaon and I had bought a Bullet there then.
John's garage is the one which is very popular among the Bullet fraternity in Delhi. He is a very honest and a reasonable guy. I can vouch for this, inspite of my bad hindi and the new place as it was then.
John's garage is at Mahipalpur. When you are going to Delhi from Gurgoan, once you reach the Mahipalpur fly over, take the left service road. Go under the flyover and take a U turn. On the left side you will pass Radissons hotel. Keep a good watch to your left. The garage is behind a small compound wall and can be easily missed. Pappu's number was 9811375839, not sure if it has changed now.
A very delayed thanks, but thank you for the information. Meanwhile, I researched some more and have been referred to Brawn Autos in Sector 15. As for updates, my bull is still lying idle. Plan to fix her up in a couple of days.
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Old 21st June 2011, 16:04   #257
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Default re: The Royal Enfield Mechanics Thread: All mechanics requirements and queries here

if someone is looking for good bullet guy in south delhi area, you can use "bullet wale sardarji" in front of thyagaraj sports complex at the INA/lodhi road juncture.
right next to the bus depot.
thyaraja is on google maps, when you hit the roundabout right at the bus depot.
Just thought id share this.
this guy maintained my brother's ex-air force bullet immaculately for 10 years.
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Old 10th August 2011, 20:43   #258
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Default re: The Royal Enfield Mechanics Thread: All mechanics requirements and queries here

Something strange happened to my Thunderbird today.I was driving to my Whitefield office today and suddenly I realized that the horn has lost all its intensity.As if the battery was draining out.And then slowly the behavior changed.When I press the horn the engine would start dying down slowly and would seem that it would stop and on releasing the horn button it would come back to its normal thump.So stopped using the horn and somehow reached near my office campus where my bike shut down on its own.Lots of kicking dint help.It would start but then die out on its own.No indicators working, no neutral LED blinking and no horn working.So I guess the battery has died.

One thing I suspect is that the alternator/regulator has given up and hence the battery was not charging at all, during my run.
Or the battery has got old and needs replacement.

But needed some info with the role of the battery when the engine has already started.
I mean I am able to kick start the engine but within seconds it goes off on its own as thought the fuel is adultrated or water in the fuel(which is not the case here.).Does battery or alternator have a role to play to keep the engine running after it has already started?

Meanwhile I have given my battery for charging and will get it tomorrow evening only.So if RE experts or rather electrical experts can help answer the above question ,of the role of the battery/alternator in keeping the engine running after it has started , it would be really helpful.
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Old 10th August 2011, 21:15   #259
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Default re: The Royal Enfield Mechanics Thread: All mechanics requirements and queries here

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Originally Posted by Alter_Ego View Post
Does battery or alternator have a role to play to keep the engine running after it has already started?
When you are turning off the switch, voltage supplied (by the battery) to spark plugs are cut and thereby engine stops.
Alternator role is to recharge the battery and energise the H/L.

Please check for any loose connections, if issue still there after battery is recharged.

Last edited by Twiny : 10th August 2011 at 21:18.
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Old 10th August 2011, 23:44   #260
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Default re: The Royal Enfield Mechanics Thread: All mechanics requirements and queries here

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Originally Posted by Twiny View Post
When you are turning off the switch, voltage supplied (by the battery) to spark plugs are cut and thereby engine stops.
Alternator role is to recharge the battery and energise the H/L.

Please check for any loose connections, if issue still there after battery is recharged.
Thanks Twiny Chetaa.
So that means battery is required for the engine to keep running.
But then I remember in earlier days when battery used to be dead we could just push start the bike and things would get normal again.
So I am guessing in my case even after the engine starts the alternator is not recharging the battery and so the entire system is cut off from the required voltage.
Also I am planning to drive down around 30kms with the recharged battery (if the problem doesn't occur) from office to my mechanic's workshop.
Hope the battery will sustain the charge for that duration of my drive

So now i guess my suspects should be alternator gone bad or loose connections.

Will check for loose connections if the issue persists even after battery charging and alternator check.
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Old 11th August 2011, 08:54   #261
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Default re: The Royal Enfield Mechanics Thread: All mechanics requirements and queries here

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Originally Posted by Alter_Ego View Post
Thanks Twiny Chetaa.
So that means battery is required for the engine to keep running.
But then I remember in earlier days when battery used to be dead we could just push start the bike and things would get normal again.
So I am guessing in my case even after the engine starts the alternator is not recharging the battery and so the entire system is cut off from the required voltage.
Also I am planning to drive down around 30kms with the recharged battery (if the problem doesn't occur) from office to my mechanic's workshop.
Hope the battery will sustain the charge for that duration of my drive

So now i guess my suspects should be alternator gone bad or loose connections.

Will check for loose connections if the issue persists even after battery charging and alternator check.
The new bikes come with TCI ignition in which battery is constantly required to keep the bike running. If your battery is weak then even the performance of bike will go down.
Do check the alterantor for any issues.
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Old 11th August 2011, 09:10   #262
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Default re: The Royal Enfield Mechanics Thread: All mechanics requirements and queries here

While getting the batt back ask them to load (resistance coil) test it. If the charge holds, put batt on bike & go back to charging shop- they can check if charging system is functional. If not its on to your mech. As you said, a weak batt after few minutes of the bike running can hold some charge to support ignition. But a dead batt (open/dried) can't support ignition even if alternator is Ok.

Now, a service manual says TCI can function on as low as 7 volts. ie., it should start with weak batt & keep running may be at slightly raised rpm to sustain alternator output. I need to hook up a weak 5yr old 12v ups battery next days to see what turns out. pls do update us here as you get things resolved.
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Old 11th August 2011, 11:22   #263
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Default re: The Royal Enfield Mechanics Thread: All mechanics requirements and queries here

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Originally Posted by ricky_1605 View Post
The new bikes come with TCI ignition in which battery is constantly required to keep the bike running. If your battery is weak then even the performance of bike will go down.
Do check the alterantor for any issues.
Ricky, mine is the older version of thunderbird(2007).Not twinspart.So not sure whether it has the TCI ignition.Will come to know of the battery by today evening.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rennjit View Post
While getting the batt back ask them to load (resistance coil) test it. If the charge holds, put batt on bike & go back to charging shop- they can check if charging system is functional. If not its on to your mech. As you said, a weak batt after few minutes of the bike running can hold some charge to support ignition. But a dead batt (open/dried) can't support ignition even if alternator is Ok.

Now, a service manual says TCI can function on as low as 7 volts. ie., it should start with weak batt & keep running may be at slightly raised rpm to sustain alternator output. I need to hook up a weak 5yr old 12v ups battery next days to see what turns out. pls do update us here as you get things resolved.
Rennjit cheto,
I have given the battery for charging to my local mechanic.He wouldnt be aware of the load test.Will anyways ask him.
I really doubt the battery going dead as till few days ago the sound of my thunderbird's horn was more than my safari's horn.Battery seemed to be in perfect condition till day before yesterday.

From all your suggestions I strongly suspect my alternator going kaput.
Will get the battery today evening and bring it to office tomorrow to install it on my thunderbird which is lying in the office basement.

If it starts and is able to retain the charge for around 30kms to my mechanic's shop near my home then I can be sure that its the alternator which is the culprit.

And if the bike stalls halfway on route in the Varthur jungles then I have bigger problems.

Anyways Thanks Ricky and Rennjit for the critical pointers.

Will update as soon as I have some conclusion.
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Old 11th August 2011, 12:26   #264
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Default re: The Royal Enfield Mechanics Thread: All mechanics requirements and queries here

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Originally Posted by Alter_Ego View Post
Ricky, mine is the older version of thunderbird(2007).Not twinspart.So not sure whether it has the TCI ignition.Will come to know of the battery by today evening.
Well to my understanding your bike also has a TCI ignition because i have a 2002 TB with CDI ignition and my bike was running for 2 yrs with a dead battery. Horns did not use to work and all the lights were on coil.
And you mentioned that the performance reduces when you press horn shows that your bike also has a TCI ignition. Anyways all the best with the battery and keep us updated.
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Old 11th August 2011, 12:54   #265
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Default re: The Royal Enfield Mechanics Thread: All mechanics requirements and queries here

Quote:
Originally Posted by ricky_1605 View Post
Well to my understanding your bike also has a TCI ignition because i have a 2002 TB with CDI ignition and my bike was running for 2 yrs with a dead battery. Horns did not use to work and all the lights were on coil.
And you mentioned that the performance reduces when you press horn shows that your bike also has a TCI ignition.
Thanks a lot Ricky.Yeah I guess the knowledge you shared here confirms that mine is a TCI ignition.

Will update as soon as I have some confirmation by tomorrow.

Last edited by Alter_Ego : 11th August 2011 at 12:56.
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Old 11th August 2011, 17:07   #266
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Default re: The Royal Enfield Mechanics Thread: All mechanics requirements and queries here

4 year old batt- its closing on normal life time, these can go open circuit with no warning. Wish you luck in 30km batt power run. you may be setting a bench mark, do let us know.
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Old 12th August 2011, 00:33   #267
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Default re: The Royal Enfield Mechanics Thread: All mechanics requirements and queries here

Alter_Ego

Sorry to hear of your problem. Hopefully by now you have purchased a new battery and your riding again. Now, a few thoughts about your alternator.

If you do not own a "volt/ohm meter" you might consider purchasing one. There should be some relatively inexpensive ones available and they can be of great help when one needs to find electrical faults.
If you choose to buy one of these make sure it has the ability to check AC (alternating current). This is the type of current your alternator supplies to the rectifier diode.

At any running speed, your alternator should produce enough current to keep the bike running. This is especially true if your headlight is turned off.**
A voltage test across the battery terminals with the engine idling should produce a voltage of at least 12 volts even if the battery is dead or broken. If the engine speed is increased this voltage should increase to at least 13+ volts.

If this 13+ volt power is not present at the battery terminals with the engine running, it does not necessarily mean your alternator is bad.
A loose wiring connector, a corroded grounding (earth) connection or a defective rectifier diode can produce the same results.
While the rectifier diode may be difficult for you to check, the loose or corroded connections should be fairly easy to examine and repair.

If there is a problem with having adequate voltage from the alternator and it is not related to loose or corroded circuits hopefully it is the rectifier diode. This item should be much less expensive to replace than an alternator would be.

If you have a volt/ohm meter you might be able to check for current being supplied to the rectifier diode from the alternator by testing the AC current.
With my new EFI G5 the alternator supply wires are yellow and there are several of them. They eventually end up at the rectifier diode which converts the AC to DC (direct current). The DC wires on my bike are red (+) and black (-). If the AC supply side is receiving power from the alternator with the engine running the alternator is good and the problem is most likely with the rectifier. I mentioned my yellow alternator wires because hopefully yours will be the same however because my Enfield is a 2011 it may be different.

While your riding, the alternator should be charging the battery at all times with the excess current going to power your ignition circuit, your lights and horn. Unfortunately, if the battery is defective it may take the charge but be unable to return it to the electrical system.

Battery's have 5 internal connections which connect the cells. Over time these can break and if one of them does it may be making a small amount of contact with itself. Under these circumstances the battery will appear to be providing full power but when a heavy current is required the connection will temporarily fail. This is the reason a "load test" is made when testing a battery. It requires the battery to provide a large amount of current and failing this test prooves that there is an internal break.

**Some of the Royal Enfields have a separate AC (alternating current) circuit to power the headlight which does not use the rectifier or diode. If your bike is one of these your headlight could work while the engine is running off of the battery's power even while the alternators DC (direct current) supply is defective.

Good luck to you.
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Old 12th August 2011, 22:09   #268
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Question http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorbikes/14053-royal-enfield-mechanics-thread-all-mec

Hi all,

I own a 1981 bullet 350 which belongs to my dad,all these days i have never taken it for daily rides for two reasons
1.i have a passion and swift so use them,

2 i didnt want to use a bike which gives less mileage and also doesnt have fork lock(like new bikes) and side stand,where ever i go i need to find a solid flat place to park it

But now i some how feel that this classic bike has to be preserved,so planning to sell the passion and start using the bullet.(After 30 years)

I need advice from you people on the below topics
  • Contact of a Good bullet mechanic in and around Adyar
  • How much would it cost to convert the front drum to disk brakes
  • Can i fit a fork lock and side stand for my bullet
Please let me know the Approx cost and modification required
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Old 12th August 2011, 23:52   #269
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Default Re: Bullet - Need advice on modification

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Originally Posted by joshguy View Post
Hi all,

I own a 1981 bullet 350 which belongs to my dad,all these days i have never taken it for daily rides for two reasons
1.i have a passion and swift so use them,

2 i didnt want to use a bike which gives less mileage and also doesnt have fork lock(like new bikes) and side stand,where ever i go i need to find a solid flat place to park it

But now i some how feel that this classic bike has to be preserved,so planning to sell the passion and start using the bullet.(After 30 years)

I need advice from you people on the below topics
  • Contact of a Good bullet mechanic in and around Adyar
    I wish I could help you with this. Unfortunately, I from Mumbai.
  • How much would it cost to convert the front drum to disk brakes
    The would be approximately around 7.5-8k
    Get the job done from an Authorized Service Center, unless there is a recommendation from our fellow T-Bhpians to visit any particular mechanic in your vicinity.

    For Service centers in your city, this link should help :-
    Welcome to Royal Enfield Motorcycles | Motorcycle India
  • Can i fit a fork lock and side stand for my bullet

Side Stand for the bullet is easily available at 3 out of 5 spare parts shops that sell bike spares. Cost:- Approximately 150/- including fitment.
I am not sure about the fork lock, as even the new bikes sold by RE don't come with one. Bullet Gurus can help you with this.
[/list]
Please let me know the Approx cost and modification required
Hey Josh,

Great Decision, I would say.

I have tried to answer your questions above (see highlighted text).

This is the thread which you can follow and add your queries in :- http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/motorb...s-here-18.html (The Royal Enfield Mechanics Thread: All mechanics requirements and queries here)

Last edited by mantrig : 12th August 2011 at 23:53.
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Old 13th August 2011, 00:06   #270
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Default Re: Bullet - Need advice on modification

Disk brakes, the whole set is a straight fit. You will get it for around 8-9K
Don't install a front lock, just buy a big, fat chain and lock. And robbers never dare to steal a Bull -- all thanks to its amazing weight and right gear shift. At the most, they will flick it's battery. Try installing a kill switch under the seat. Without that the bike just won't start!!!
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