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Old 1st August 2006, 16:02   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rtech
Its exactly the other way around. Its better to play with the teeth on the rear rather than the front.

Advantages are:
- More accurate adjustements possible
- Going down in teeth on the front increases chain wear
- Much easier to remove/fix on the rear than the front


Agreed......
Right on the Target
and bottom line
SPORCAKETing WORKS
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Old 1st August 2006, 23:23   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rtech
Its exactly the other way around. Its better to play with the teeth on the rear rather than the front.

Advantages are:
- More accurate adjustements possible
- Going down in teeth on the front increases chain wear
- Much easier to remove/fix on the rear than the front
Well yes, rtech you right there. I'm not sure of the chain wear part. The reason people prefer the rear sprocket is 'cos it gives you a lot more options. 1 tooth in the front sprocket is equivelant to 3 teeth at the back. So if your bike is loosing a lot of initial with a one tooth decrease in the front, then you'd have to increase the rear sprocket by 2 teeth. Which will give (from stock) a 1 tooth increase. So instead of screwing around with the front sproket they prefer the rear sprocket.

Sprocketing is not small matter. Its these small things that will matter and will use up a lot of time. Even on the 200cc fiero and the 300cc v twin fiero, 1 year down the line and the gear ratios are still being figured out.

I'll say this again, the best setting that you can have between initial and top end is your stock setting. Unless your going to do something drastic with your bike to improve performance don't bother with the sprocketting. ITS THE RIGHT MIX.


Gravit, I seriously dont' understand what your trying to do bud. You want performance and also mileage. Well, news flash - It won't happen. You want to think of performance you better chuck the mileage thought, you want mileage then chuck the performance part. You said you weigh 102 kgs i think. Well put someone who weighs about 60 kilos on your bike and then ask to drag. Your bike will either lead or be neck and neck with the pulsars and the unicorns. I know i've dragged with quite a bit of them. If you do decide to lose weight and still lose then remember what psycholyn quoted from the movie -Its not the ride its the rider. You will have to practice your off the line launches and ONLY practice makes perfect.

Last edited by TheCockroach : 1st August 2006 at 23:26.
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Old 2nd August 2006, 01:08   #18
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Plus changing teeth up front wont it change the calibration of your odometer? thats what they keep saying here, when they're selling their bikes. that the smaller sprocket has caused the miles to rack up on the odometer however the bikes havent done that much. true/false?
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Old 2nd August 2006, 02:17   #19
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FALSE. BIG TIME. Your front sprocket has nothing to do with your bike's odometer. The speedo is connected to the dead wheel, the front and a speedo worm that is connected to the hub of the front wheel. So as long as your front wheel is spinning the miles get racked up. There is no blimin way that anyone can claim that his bike has done a lot lesser than the kms indicated on the odo, Maybe more but never less.
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Old 3rd August 2006, 21:45   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCockroach
Well yes, rtech you right there. I'm not sure of the chain wear part. The reason people prefer the rear sprocket is 'cos it gives you a lot more options. 1 tooth in the front sprocket is equivelant to 3 teeth at the back. So if your bike is loosing a lot of initial with a one tooth decrease in the front, then you'd have to increase the rear sprocket by 2 teeth. Which will give (from stock) a 1 tooth increase. So instead of screwing around with the front sproket they prefer the rear sprocket.

Sprocketing is not small matter. Its these small things that will matter and will use up a lot of time. Even on the 200cc fiero and the 300cc v twin fiero, 1 year down the line and the gear ratios are still being figured out.

I'll say this again, the best setting that you can have between initial and top end is your stock setting. Unless your going to do something drastic with your bike to improve performance don't bother with the sprocketting. ITS THE RIGHT MIX.


Gravit, I seriously dont' understand what your trying to do bud. You want performance and also mileage. Well, news flash - It won't happen. You want to think of performance you better chuck the mileage thought, you want mileage then chuck the performance part. You said you weigh 102 kgs i think. Well put someone who weighs about 60 kilos on your bike and then ask to drag. Your bike will either lead or be neck and neck with the pulsars and the unicorns. I know i've dragged with quite a bit of them. If you do decide to lose weight and still lose then remember what psycholyn quoted from the movie -Its not the ride its the rider. You will have to practice your off the line launches and ONLY practice makes perfect.
u are right while saying its the rider not the ride . but keeping personal experiences apart we must now discuss abt sprocketing whether it works or not .
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Old 3rd August 2006, 21:47   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rtech
Its exactly the other way around. Its better to play with the teeth on the rear rather than the front.

Advantages are:
- More accurate adjustements possible
- Going down in teeth on the front increases chain wear
- Much easier to remove/fix on the rear than the front
well the main thing is getting a sprocket bigger in size or with more teeth . its not available that easily .
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Old 3rd August 2006, 22:20   #22
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I agree with you totally on that Rtech!
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Old 4th August 2006, 04:19   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by garvit2002
u are right while saying its the rider not the ride . but keeping personal experiences apart we must now discuss abt sprocketing whether it works or not .
Buddy, thats what i've been trying to say all this while. IT WORKS. Its works when all the ingedients are taken into consideration and the company that manufactured your bike took all that into consideration and gave the best damn combination between initial and top end that your bike can have.

They say "Experience is the best teacher". guess some things have to be learnt the hard way. Dude start with the rear sprocket. Drop one tooth at the back and ride it around for a while not happy with the initial and the top end then stick with it or increase or decrease according to you liking. But piece of advise, do it in increments of 1 tooth.
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Old 4th August 2006, 11:35   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCockroach
Buddy, thats what i've been trying to say all this while. IT WORKS. Its works when all the ingedients are taken into consideration and the company that manufactured your bike took all that into consideration and gave the best damn combination between initial and top end that your bike can have.

They say "Experience is the best teacher". guess some things have to be learnt the hard way. Dude start with the rear sprocket. Drop one tooth at the back and ride it around for a while not happy with the initial and the top end then stick with it or increase or decrease according to you liking. But piece of advise, do it in increments of 1 tooth.
and how much would it cost to buy the sprockets if the increments of 1 tooth are taken to get a concluding liking.
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Old 4th August 2006, 11:39   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rtech
Its exactly the other way around. Its better to play with the teeth on the rear rather than the front.

Advantages are:
- More accurate adjustements possible
- Going down in teeth on the front increases chain wear
- Much easier to remove/fix on the rear than the front
ive done it and its cheaper and easier for the front cs's if u are to consider this case where Indian bikes are concerned. what u said is good for imported bikes as to get to the front cs it will mean to remove quite some parts and maybe the exhaust can to get to it.
the chain wear u say holds good when u have high acceleration of 0 to 80/100 in first gear it makes very little difference for our lawn movers.
and countershafts are avaible in many sizes in Pune.

Last edited by 2fast4u : 4th August 2006 at 11:41.
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Old 5th August 2006, 02:49   #26
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A sprocket will cost ya around a 100 bucks. What if the person is satisfied with just a 1 tooth drop? Now the front sprocket may cost a bit less but again. One tooth in the front is equal to 3 at the back. So if you go one tooth less in the front and not satisfied with the initial, then you'd either put it back to stock and do a 2 teeth increase in the rear sprocket. Plus, don't think any bike manufactured in India can take a one tooth drop in the front sprocket from stock, unless you've ported it or are running a big bore in it.

Bud, chill out man, personal opinion, no malicious intent meant.
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Old 25th August 2006, 17:40   #27
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Hi!
You will always see that a sprocket change is usually the easiest and cheapest perormance mod on a sbk.
Usually a -1/+2 works wonders (go down 1 tooth on the front and go up 2 at the rear). Acceleration increases by a fairly large margin at the same time scrubbing off a bit of top end..
Cheers!
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Old 26th August 2006, 00:37   #28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ap10046
Hi!
You will always see that a sprocket change is usually the easiest and cheapest perormance mod on a sbk.
Usually a -1/+2 works wonders (go down 1 tooth on the front and go up 2 at the rear). Acceleration increases by a fairly large margin at the same time scrubbing off a bit of top end..
Cheers!
Going down one tooth in the front and going 2 up on the rear sprocket is equal to just a one tooth drop at the back. Equation, roughly 1 tooth in the front is equal to 3 teeth at the back. That means you have a smaller sprocket at the back, which theoretically means higher top speed and marginal initial decrease. Wonder how you got a better acceleration figure outta that mod.
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Old 26th August 2006, 12:34   #29
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Hi Cockroach,
check out some of the posts on this topic on www.fireblades.org, the best site for any questions regarding the 'Blades
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Old 29th August 2006, 21:55   #30
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i went to tvs service centre today for a regular service . i asked the service person abt the chain sprockets as i was having problems with the same as the chain was noisy . the person told me that if you are not worried abt the mileage of the bike then go for the shogun sprocket . he told me that i will be able to cross 120 kmph !!!!!!!!!!!! after that modd but that will leave me with 30 kmpl mileage . my reaction to that was "kitna kharcha hoga" "how much wud it cost? then he answered Rs 200\- . now i doubt that shogun sprocket was for Rs 200\- and wud it help me . apache has 43 teeth at the rear sprocket as the chap told me . now the big question should i go for it ??? pls help !!!!!!!!!!!!
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