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Old 10th March 2016, 22:10   #16
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Default Re: My Kawasaki KB100's biography and how it became an ATV

Partially true. My father loves everything he owns and everything he used to admire in his youth. I still remember that the only music that played in our home till my 10th class was "ABBA" because it belonged to his time. The height of this love is that in his college days touring with his friends, they stumbled upon a shooting set and met up with the actress. They took a photo with her too and it is stored somewhere in our family albums. But there was a Red Datsun sedan which he saw. And obviously in those days, cars were rare and the only ones were Ambassador, 118NE and rarely, the site of a Merc, all of them in boring colours. He saw the Cherry Red Datsun and took a photo posing in front of it. Now, when he heard Datsun was coming to India and learnt about the price of Go, he took his chequebook and went out in Warangal to book a car because in his mind, Datsun is still a premium brand. The only reason he wanted the bike is the nostalgic value of the bike.

But he hated the bike in the end when it became a headache for him to take a screw driver every weekend and try fixing it. He actually told me to sell it to scrap merchants himself. The reason why he put so many restrictions on the bike is as pointed out by arnabchak, doubts on reliability of homemade chassis and the fact that "I fixed it". I can back this up because my initial proposal was to throw the bike chassis aside and make a new ATV chassis and mount the old engine on it. But he decided to cut the bike's chassis instead.

And no. He is not a biker. Not at least for the past 10 years. Actually, I got 58kmpl on the bike and my father still does not believe that. I always put 100rs worth of petrol in the tank, run it till it goes to reserve and fill up again. I don't trust the odo because the speedo cable occasionally develops loose contact showing 0kmph. I know the trips I have done and obviously there are only a few places you go when you are in a city without friends. So, I know the distances and I calculate the total distance covered and the mileage. And I am the only user. He still does not believe me. He used to get 45kmpl (mostly because of his riding style, he never changes gears unless stall is imminent, and even in our M800, he continues in third gear after a speed hump). I don't think a bad carb tuning will cause such drastic change in mileage.

Actually the bike is front heavy (if no passenger is accounted for).The front has engine and gearbox combo which weighs 28kgs wet and the frame is 15kgs of which maybe 9 kgs in the back and 6 kgs in the front. The rear drum with the sprocket and the wheel weighs 15 kgs. So, 34kgs in the front and 24kgs in the back (all figures approx) and I can feel it when I lift the bike to load it into the back of the car. Add to that that the steering frame has to be attached in the front, the frame weighs a mere 8kgs but the tyres weigh around 10kg each so, 28kgs added to the front making the final figure 64kgs in the front and 24kgs in the back. (front means, the area where engine is and rear means the area where the rear tyre and shock absorber is).

To be completely honest, I weigh in a 100kg and sit with most of the weight in the back. Only the legs and hands go in the front.

The reasons for lift off are
1. Short wheelbase. We all know that the relative position of load, fulcrum and effort dictates the magnitude of force required (read "types of lever"). Since all the weight is so close to the rear tyre, the effort required to lift off is low. For example, for a door, if a person is applying full force near the hinge, it is easier for us to counteract his force. But if he applies the full force near the handle, counteracting him is tough.

2. Modified tyre diameter. We know that some torque is coming to the wheel. But, Torque = Force x Distance from centre. As, the torque generated from the engine is constant, as the distance decreases, the force at wheels increases. Think of it like this. You have a tyre hanging in air which you are rotating by pushing it on the surface. You generate some torque. To stop the wheel, you need the same torque in opposite direction. But what happens if you want to stop the tyre by putting your hand near the center. You experience greater force because as the torque is constant, as the distance decreases, the force increases.

Finally, if you haven't observed, the KB100 chassis is cut and rewelded, the wiring loom altered forever. So, I don't think the bike in my hand can ever be restored. I might help anyone if he has an old KB lying around and needs any help or parts. I know a shop in warangal who has parts of bikes of the 90s. Samurai, RX100, KB100, KB125, RX135, Max100r and those ones. Never asked for Yezdi parts though.
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Old 11th March 2016, 17:21   #17
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Default Re: My Kawasaki KB100's biography and how it became an ATV

aveemashfaq, What a story!
When I was your age, probably, i too had a KB100, 1988 model, owned by my dad. Loved the bike, for all it did to me. Find my love!

Besides, it also did all the donkey's work of fetching drinking water to transporting crop of peanuts to mandi, to grocery shopping..

back then, in 1991, i was not allowed to break her down to a tractor, because she was too young. We needed a tractor too then.

Lot of nostalgia associated with it.

What I can see from your story is, the passion in what you believe. Wish you all the success in everything you do!
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Old 12th March 2016, 12:48   #18
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Default Re: My Kawasaki KB100's biography and how it became an ATV

Dear @aveemashfaq,

Need help on a carb for my 1990 RTZ Delta. Require a carb along with the complete accelerator wire and choke wire. Can you please check it out whether the same is available in the shop that you mentioned


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Old 13th March 2016, 22:12   #19
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Default Re: My Kawasaki KB100's biography and how it became an ATV

Final update

Thank you all for your support and putting honest opinions on my project. The project was scrapped for quite a while now because Maruti 800 has the tiniest boot in the world. But now, we are buying a flood damaged Hyundai Getz and are restoring it. More about it is in this thread.
http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/techni...ndai-getz.html (Buying & restoring a Chennai flood-damaged Hyundai Getz!)

So, this left the M800 idle and dad insisted that the car be made into a tractor by putting a tow hook to the rear bolted on to the chassis. But after much argument, we came to a decision. KB100 will still be the ATV and I will be restoring the M800.

Reason for this decision is, M800 has a boot of 140liters which is too small to make any sensible thing and fit in it. But getz has 245 liters which is substantially bigger and so I can make a bigger and much stabler ATV maybe this time with four wheels. And why destroy a second vehicle when the first can still do the job well. I still have to plan it, model it, do stress analysis and execute it though. And it will take time and another thread.

hey atul singh, I am a bit busy with getting the getz back to chennai. Wait for two weeks for the inquiry. However, why do you need the complete carb set. If you haven't lost your carb, there is no point in buying a new one.

Procedure to refurbish the carb
The location of carb is on the right side of the bike below the cylinder and in front of the kick (you must be knowing that already). Open the three phillips screws to open the aluminium cover covering the carb. Now, when looking from the front tyre to the vehicle, you can see a rubber cork. Remove it and you can see the bolt which clamps the carb onto the cylinder. Unscrew it. Now wiggle the carb pulling it out at the same time. It will come out of the slot. There is a rubber seal. Make sure it is not lost.

The accelerator valve is screwed on to the top of carburettor along with an idling screw. Look at it and it will look like a cap. It might be tough and you might need a plumber's wrench to open it for the first time. Then pull it out and the whole thing comes out. It has the cap, a spring which is attached to a cylinder like thing. Similarly, the choke wire can be removed with your size 8 or 10 wrench. Then the carb is all yours and put it in a tray.

Put it upside down and look for four screws that connect the bottom half with the top half. Remove them and open the cover whilst the carb is in inverted position. You will see a copper float. It contains two small drums attached to a middle section. It is attached to the carb via a pin. Pull the pin out with pliers and remove the float. Now, you can see a copper bolt with a small copper pin like thing in it called the float pin. IF YOUR CARB HAS ANY TROUBLE, THOSE THREE COPPER PARTS MUST BE THE SOURCE OF TROUBLES.

Push the float pin against the copper bolt and get the carb upright. Put your mouth on the petrol intake and blow air forcefully into it. If some air leaks through, change those two things and you are done. If nothing happens, maybe the float middle structure has a surface which pushes the pin to close further petrol coming into the lower chamber. That surface needs to be bended to calibrate it properly. Clean all holes you can find. If you are having a tough time doing that, soak the carb in old engine oil for 4 hours and try again. Clean them all, put them back in and your bike should start, no problems at all.

Remember, between the top half and bottom half of carb, there is a packing, a cardboard like material. That should be in good condition or replace it with new one or you are in trouble. Apart from the float pin, float and the float screw and carburettor packing, there is nothing to be done in a carb.

Assemble everything back in reverse order. Do not close the aluminium cover as it is useful in tuning the bike.

Now comes for the tuning bit. A tip for starting the bike when it is not used for long is that, put your three fingers stacked together against the mouth of the carb and kick it. Your fingers acts like a massive choke and the bike starts. Remember to remove your hand as soon as the engine rpm increases. NO there is no hazard but the engine revvs pointlessly. You must notice that there is a screw in the top half of the carb near the venturi (the funnel like thing). I hope you have opened and cleaned that hole as well. Now, when the bike has started, let it run for a while, let the engine heat up properly, keep on giving throttle inputs because KB100 does not die when it is revved up. After there is a proper heat up, there is a screw (which looks like a bolt which has a spring attached between it and the carb) on the top cap beside the throttle cable which we removed first during disassembly. Use a plier to turn the screw anti-clockwise and notice the idle rpm increasing. If your bike is not idling properly or dying frequently, turn the screw. Let the bike be at an idle of 2.5k or 3k rpm. Now, loosen the screw near the venturi a lot. You will notice the rpm falls down. Tighten the screw by quarter rotation. Wait for 1 minute. You should see the rpm increase. It is suggested to have keen ears to note the difference in exhaust note. Screw it another quarter. Do this procedure until when you screw it, it no longer increases the rpm. That is the flat point. Now unscrew a little to see if the rpm changes a tiny bit. The final position of the screw is at the start of where the rpm does not change with a small turn of screw. This does take a lot of time and patience.

After you are done with tuning, adjust the idle screw near the accelerator cable so that the idle rpm is around 1500. This way, when you put the aluminium cover back on, the rpm drops down to 1250-1300.

And yes, all the float parts and carb packing is available with him as well as the cable. Don't know about the carb though.

Note to mods: Please edit the opening post to add a link to this comment as it has useful advice regarding carb tuning
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