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Old 9th April 2008, 20:47   #16
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Originally Posted by redfire View Post
TB instrument cluster on a Bullet chassis? Then it's identity is gone. A Bullet looks Bullet (what I mean here with the term 'Bullet' is the traditional model named Bullet. TB is not a Bullet, its RE TB only) when it has its unique headlight / instrument assembly called casquette. If you want to put TB instrument panel, then you may have to go for TB like HL, which is a sperarate HL fixed o clamps at the top of shocks. In your case, you like TB seat, TB pillion rest, TB instrument cluster, then why don't you go for a TB?

I also had the same qn, but settled with a new std 500. She is serving me for last 4 years.
Precisely. The identity of the Bullet is in the casquette and the tiger eyes. Once you change the casquette the identity is gone.

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Originally Posted by kph View Post
Yes true, But I have heard that it is only In KL and PB. For other states std are lighter.
And yes, all electras are lighter.
The change has been a countrywide phenomenon. And a welcome one at that.

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Originally Posted by kph View Post
Here are my views on selecting the right bullet.
1. If you do not do long rides quite often and do not enjoy very fast riding and if you like the thump and feel of the classic bullet, go for a Cast Iron std bullet.
2. If you intend frequent touring and fast nonstop riding, go for a Machismo or a TB with avl engine. avl is faster, efficient, reliable and long lasting.
Yes very true. It's recommended that you chose the bike based on your genuine requirement.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kph View Post
Regarding the modifications you were asking about...
Bullet looks good with a TB seat and a TB tail lamp and no plate assembly. That gives the bike a sleek sexy look. I have done it on my std350. Later the seat is changed to a 535 single though. One advantage with the TB seat is that its broad rider portion is comfortable for long rides. Since the front part is broad you get a bit of thigh support too.
Adding a fuel gauge is waste of time effort and money. Why do we need it?
Front disk breaks will cost you 6K+, i think. But is a very useful addition.
I'm going for the TB seat too. The present shorty one & half seat is generating complaints with friends & family.

Fuel gauge = waste of time. Trust your fuel tap and the odometer.

Disk brakes are a good investment if you plan to keep the Bull.

Quote:
Originally Posted by jobinjv View Post
Thanks Kph..

I would like a KL registration. I feel the process of getting an old one from Chennai and then changing it to KL is gonna be some tedious process. On top, do u feel that there will be problems with insurance when it comes to older models. And what about Tax.

Another question, on the picture i put up is that a normal Electra handle?

Has anyone here tried out getting an after market disc done, if so can u share the experience.

The last thing is about the carburetors and TCI. It seems all is very different on the newer models and reliable.
Don't even think about buying an old TN bike and changing it over to KL. It's a hassle that you don't want. Instead pay a bit more and buy a KL bike.

The one in the pic that's an RD350 handlebar. It's comfortable.

Yes they're reliable, don't worry about it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by jobinjv View Post
Well, i don like how TB is built. The tank or the side covering. What i was looking for in the TB cluster was the Tacho n the fuel gauge..

But if there is some other way i can mount a fuel gauge i will be more than happy.
If that's the only reason you don't want a TB you can change that TB tank for a normal Tank. Change the handle bar to the normal or Electr or RD type.

In fact i like the looks of the bike with TB sde panels and std tank & casquette.
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Old 13th April 2008, 07:12   #17
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Thanks Shankar..

Lot of info here. But one thing not answered is will i be able to fix an electric starter on the STD.
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Old 13th April 2008, 10:43   #18
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Yes. But it's not a wise thing to do.

1) It will turn out to be horribly expensive if going the OE way.

2) If you're going the custom way it might be relatively cheaper, but you should find a mech with enough engineering expertise to carry it of successfully & reliably.

3) And there's no real need for an electric starter anyways unless you've got a very very weak right leg.
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Old 13th April 2008, 13:55   #19
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Hmmm..

1. When meaning expensive, what range are we talking about.

2. Are there any good mechs that are known on Team-Bhp who have carried out such a work

3. and the reason why i asked about electric start was i am worried about leaving the bike idle for a very long duration. Idle in the sense with out a start or movement when i am not home. I felt someone could start it once a week during my absence so that it remains in running condition whenever i want it for a ride.
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Old 13th April 2008, 20:07   #20
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Job, as far as i have known bull always had issues with bull, moreover going to a fix a ec don't think its suggested...it will easily cost you above 20...

If you are so keen then pick a bike which has one...
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Old 13th April 2008, 20:27   #21
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jobinjv, the best option for you is to save the money you were going to invest in fitting an electric starter. And buy a used Electra with electric starter.

It will work out cheaper and more reliable.
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Old 13th April 2008, 20:35   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jobinjv View Post
Well, i don like how TB is built. The tank or the side covering. What i was looking for in the TB cluster was the Tacho n the fuel gauge..

But if there is some other way i can mount a fuel gauge i will be more than happy.
See the attached pic. This is how I managed to fix the thunderbird tacho. Many people tell me that I spoiled the looks, but I dont care, I needed the tacho. To make the fuel gauge work, I had to cut the tank and fit the sensor, else you need to buy a tank which comes with a sensor(I think none of the std's do)

The electric start that RE uses on the current bikes is a chinese(or Taiwanese) import, reliability is not one of its traits. They used to give DENSO units with the earlier 535's but found no takers. Please refrain from fixing an electric start which will burn a big enough hole in your pocket, as well as cause grief later.

The disk brake kit(used to be available on the RE site before, else check you friendl neighbourhood dealer) is designed to be downward comaptible, so you can fit it onto older bikes also. But metal fatigue in older bikes may cause the forks to break under hard braking(I am talking about really old bikes here, say pre 80 models). It used to cost 5000 bucks some years back, no idea of the current prices. Any competent bullet mech will fit it for you, you need to get the correct kit, according to the handlebar you are going to use.

Edit : The photo was taken by my Siemens S88, used to take good pictures. Lost it, though. Sigh ! Location, somewhere near Madikeri.
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Advice needed on Enfield-bullet-tacho.jpg  


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Old 13th April 2008, 20:42   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kph
Originally Posted by kph
Yes true, But I have heard that it is only In KL and PB. For other states std are lighter.
And yes, all electras are lighter.
The ads are KL and PB specific(where it mentions clearly that the bike uses a heavier crank), the bikes are same all over India. Apparently this was because sales of std 350 nosedived in the said areas, due to the propaganda that bullets lost their charm because of the lighter crank.

RE decided to improve the bullet's FE by lighteting the whole bike, crank included, but did not go down well with the Mallu and Punju public. SOmetimes the mechs are to blame, the grease monkeys start giving stupid advice to the novice bulleteers.

Last edited by kuttapan : 13th April 2008 at 20:43.
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Old 13th April 2008, 23:20   #24
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Kuttapa is your Bull an Electra? I wanted to have a tach and since mine's points i was thinking of putting the Lightning's tach. But never got down to it. I like the position where you have mounted the tach it looks way better than the Hitchcock's advised position for their Smiths tach.
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Old 14th April 2008, 06:58   #25
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Thanks guys..

between kuttapa are u able to view the speedo past the tacho. Meaning does it fall in the line of sight.
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Old 14th April 2008, 08:57   #26
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If a bull is left for a long time without any use, what should be done so that it does not rust away. Things to be done regarding engine, fuel tank, battery, etc to keep the bull intact till its service is needed again
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Old 14th April 2008, 20:39   #27
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Man no offence but too many questions even before you've bought a Bull. people buy Bullet because they love it, if you're just buying for the sake of owning one then it's best not to buy. Bullet is a machine which requires real owner involvement.

There're a lot of things that could go wrong with Bull, if you're a worrier then Bull is not the bike for you.
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Old 14th April 2008, 21:56   #28
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No shankar thats not what i meant. With me having to not be at home some time i was just wanting to know the inside into it. You should know well in advance before u buy something.
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Old 15th April 2008, 14:04   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sankar View Post
Kuttapa is your Bull an Electra? I wanted to have a tach and since mine's points i was thinking of putting the Lightning's tach. But never got down to it. I like the position where you have mounted the tach it looks way better than the Hitchcock's advised position for their Smiths tach.
My bike is an amalgm of parts that RE produced at various points in time. It has a 500cc engine, a/c electricals, CB points ignition(with a CDI standby to boot, just in case the battery conks) etc etc. You are right, she is dressed as a later model(before 5s) electra.

And to answer jobin, line of sight is not an issue at all, with the tacho mount.

The best method to preserve a fuel tank is to keep a full tank of fuel, otherwise you can empty it completely, put some engine oil in and turn around the tank so that the whole inside has a layer of oil. Maybe the higher viscosity oil(SAE 90 or 140)suits this purpose better. Later you can wash the tank with petrol before putting it to use.

Battery - remove it and keep it on trickle charge.

Engine - Coat the aluminium parts with anti rust/chasis grease, if you are going to mothball it for a long long time, open the spark plug hole and pour engine oil inside(will be cumbersome to remove later). Drain all petrol from the carburettor float bowl.

Google for more information on mothballing a bike.
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Old 15th April 2008, 20:24   #30
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hey thanks man. I think that rounded up all my doubts now to decide.. thanks all for your help
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