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Old 31st October 2008, 14:32   #31
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All Royal Enfield gurus need some inputs, now I'm bitten by the bullet bug. I have started looking for a used, decently maintained RE, not particular if its a standard or electra, but it should be well maintained and in running condition.

I will be going this weekend to check on a 2001 Machismo, run 18k kms, second owner (he bought it from a friend), expected price abt 18-20k. Since I am complete noob about to venture out in the RE era, please provide some inputs what to avoid in a used RE, some basic advice about oil leaks, how to check for compression, what to check in a test ride, etc..

TIA
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Old 31st October 2008, 18:48   #32
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get a enfield electra 4S (not 5S).avl machismo may not be the best.second hand enfield's may be obviously abused if it is not with a passionate guy(read used bikes sellers).you must get a experienced bullet mechanic to listen to the engine to confirm whether engine rebuild is needed or not.remember avl engine will get damn hot;but give you a consistent 35-40 mileage.while cast iron may give max upto 37kmpl and the thump!.ofcourse ,I am talking about 350cc.

I am currently enjoying my electra 4S .it is giving 40kmpl plus mileage.it is running hotter than normal electra's due to lean setup.if properly tuned for power(dont expect even a unicorn!) and pickup ,mileage will drop to around 30kmpl.actually it was giving me 25-26kmpl when I got it.retuned for mileage and after the running-in(for bronze valveguides) ,will again tune for original performance.ie ,power+mileage(30-35kmpl).Hope you got some idea.
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Old 31st October 2008, 19:08   #33
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Running lean is bad for your engine. Hope you know that.
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Old 31st October 2008, 19:18   #34
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I know, but will retune after completing the breaking-in for my custom bronze made valveguides and new valves for the electra. anyways, I am running the bike less than 60kmph.no worry .
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Old 31st October 2008, 22:21   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SunnyBoi View Post
Running lean is bad for your engine. Hope you know that.
Really? . Is a rich mixture recommended for better engine life? So if my car gives me better than usual FE should I be worried?
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Old 1st November 2008, 00:06   #36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deepclutch View Post
I know, but will retune after completing the breaking-in for my custom bronze made valveguides and new valves for the electra. anyways, I am running the bike less than 60kmph.no worry .
:S

you are supposed to run extra rich during break-in aka running in.

@suresh : no idea abt cars, sorry.
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Old 1st November 2008, 07:39   #37
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it is not exactly a running-in for the cylinder-piston setup.but for the valveguides.
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Old 1st November 2008, 09:06   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SunnyBoi View Post
:S

you are supposed to run extra rich during break-in aka running in.

@suresh : no idea abt cars, sorry.
SunnyBoi is right. If you're running the bike with a lean mixture expect your engine to have a short life.

Deepclutch, what kind of bronze are you using for the valve guides? What's the clearance between the guide and the valve stem?

I had phosphor bronze valve guides on my Bullet. An extended running in is not required for the valve guides. It will become free in less than 100kilometers.

Edit: Unless it's the right kind of bronze it's not really worth it. Enfield original valve guides are the best if the right kind of bronze isn't available.

Last edited by Sankar : 1st November 2008 at 09:11.
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Old 1st November 2008, 12:51   #39
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I am not sure about the spec of the valve guide. it is custom made for each individual bikes. if you want more info, I will give the no. of the bull tuner here.
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Old 2nd November 2008, 13:34   #40
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Nah i don't need the number. I just asked because, most of the valve guides are made of the wrong bronze and goes oval much faster. So to counter this most rebuilders set the valve stem and guide clearance rather tight, which is not the right procedure. The reason why it goes oval is because the valve is pushed down by the rockers at an angle which pushes the stem out, it is not a clean straight downward movement. The right bronze is "phosphor bronze" if the guide is to be made in bronze. If not the cast iron guides are better because they're harder and will resist becoming oval from the sideways movement of the valve stem. I have tried valve guides in cast iron, bronze that they usually use to build guides (light yellow coloured ones), and phosphor bronze (reddish yellow).
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Old 2nd November 2008, 14:12   #41
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Thanks for the info sanker.
according to him ,cast iron valveguides are lasting ,no doubt BUT does not suit Kerala.CI valveguides are better with places like Rajasthan.for more technicality ,Better you talk to him(Sunny Mathew)

this guy started servicing motorcycles from 1975 ,knows about all classic triumph,norton ,matchless he had his hands laid on .
Tappets when tighten too much will kill the engine.most mechanics knows that!.

In Thrippunithura ,a lathe exists where these valve guides are custom cut for each bike.I think he said "pichala" valveguide.not "Od" one.
I will take a snap of the valveguide next time.

This guy is against adjustable cam spindle saying "Engine Poliyum"(engine break down) and he said he did it during 1976 itself!.anyways ,as the guy knows bullets for past 35 years ,I and many others service there(he is authorized service centre for marikar and already trained by all major motorcycle companies including RE multiple times).

There is another guy Nasser(and babu) ,who says pichala(peetal?) valveguides are good.but he agrees that adjustable cam spindle is good but needs a very experienced mechanic to do that and he fits the adj.cam spindle by someone in Thevara(Kochi).
I guess members from Kochi can help!.
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Old 2nd November 2008, 16:37   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kph View Post
Yes true, But I have heard that it is only In KL and PB. For other states std are lighter.
And yes, all electras are lighter.
Very true, havey cranks r only in STD 350. Iam living in mohali (punjab) and from all over india max sale of bullet is from punjab. people here (around 95%) like STD 350 as it has got orignal looks and also due to havey crank.
I myself have a Bullet Electra which is giving me around 40kM/L.
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Old 2nd November 2008, 18:11   #43
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^and no engine heatup?
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Old 2nd November 2008, 18:54   #44
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While i was following this thread, I and my friend (who wanted to buy a bullet) checked some 8 bullets, today morning we saw a machismo 350 : we rode it. we checkked the following
1) paper work
2) engine sound
3) fork play
4) wheel conditions
5) mechanic details (for cross checking with him)
6) battery (if in warranty)
7) if the engine was opened or not.
8) asked how he would like the payment.

we bought it, in a span of 1.5 hrs.

I genuinely believe, if you want a bullet, buy it . . its good to ask questions, but such details are better once you buy the bike ride it for 6 months, feel how she responds to you, and bit by bit start doing her up.

thats it. like 'Shankar' said, too many questions asked.

This is my personal opinion.

cheers.
AC

Last edited by ac 427 : 2nd November 2008 at 18:57. Reason: missing copy
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Old 2nd November 2008, 21:56   #45
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My replies are in line.

Quote:
Originally Posted by deepclutch View Post
Thanks for the info sanker.
according to him ,cast iron valveguides are lasting ,no doubt BUT does not suit Kerala.CI valveguides are better with places like Rajasthan.

Pure hogwash. Bullet engine is not that stressed to generate huge amounts of heat unless tuned really badly.

for more technicality ,Better you talk to him(Sunny Mathew)

I don't have a Bullet now, so no point.

this guy started servicing motorcycles from 1975 ,knows about all classic triumph,norton ,matchless he had his hands laid on .

With due respect to his experience, it's not necessary that he's always correct regarding everything. Old guys have certain preconceived notions which if tried to prove wrong will hurt them.

Tappets when tighten too much will kill the engine.most mechanics knows that!.

We are not talking about tappets here It's tight valve stem to guide clearance that i mentioned.

In Thrippunithura ,a lathe exists where these valve guides are custom cut for each bike.I think he said "pichala" valveguide.not "Od" one.
I will take a snap of the valveguide next time.

Pichala is the wrong kind of bronze.

This guy is against adjustable cam spindle saying "Engine Poliyum"(engine break down) and he said he did it during 1976 itself! .anyways ,as the guy knows bullets for past 35 years ,I and many others service there(he is authorized service centre for marikar and already trained by all major motorcycle companies including RE multiple times).

Oh yeah here we have a mech who's famous in the Bullet community. But after a few of us "Silver Bullets" members started visiting him he has changed for good. When he talks with us he is very technical ,and very different from the way he speaks to other Bullet customers.

There is another guy Nasser(and babu) ,who says pichala(peetal?) valveguides are good.but he agrees that adjustable cam spindle is good but needs a very experienced mechanic to do that and he fits the adj.cam spindle by someone in Thevara(Kochi).
I guess members from Kochi can help!.

Pichala valve guides are good for slow moving Bullets. Any hard riding and the guides will wear out faster. But then again pichala is the wrong kind of Bronze.

Adjustable cam spindle has to be adjusted properly, so most mechs don't bother with it. With non adjustable cam spindles their work will become easier.
I have not owned Bullet for a long time, but within the short period that i had with Bullet i learned a lot about the cast iron engine. I had two engines with me and between them i did three rebuilds. One on the heavy crank engine and two on the lighter crank engine.
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