Pulsar 150 Wobbling!

[rascalangel]

Hi all,

i own a pulsar 150 DTSi DEC 2004 model. When ever i ride it around 60-65 kmph and leave my both hands the front goes into ever increasing wobbling.
the following has already been tried:
1) the cone is replaced with new one.
2) thee bend in fork(if there was ever) was removed.
3) the tire tube checked for any packings.
4) shock abs oil changed and levels corrected.
5) the rim removed and any bend straightened out after which there was improvement for 3 days only.

can you guys please throw some light on as to why this is happening and suggest a possible solution? has any one of you experienced this kind of wobbling?

Please help as i want to get rid of this problem for once and for all. its my first bike and i love it a lot.

[aaggoswami]

First of all, never ever take your hand off.
1) Does the steering wobble when you have your hands on it ?
2) Is there any problem regarding the handling under normal riding ( with hands on steering wheel ) ?

I have experience in Caliber ( original with 7.7bhp and round headlamp ) and still experiencing it with Zeus. I did testing on lonely road in Hostel Area and just for a couple of seconds. The normal handling in my Zeus is not affected and the bike handles brilliantly.

[CorsaLove]

From the looks of it, it could be the wheel bearings which is causing the problem. I'm no expert, but just check:

If there is a spoke loose in the wheel, which could be the problem, or if there is uneven tyre wear. Also, it could be the wheel bearings, one bearing on my shogun had ruptured and i was facing the same problem.

[aaggoswami]

Originally Posted by CorsaLove

From the looks of it, it could be the wheel bearings which is causing the problem. I'm no expert, but just check:

If there is a spoke loose in the wheel, which could be the problem, or if there is uneven tyre wear. Also, it could be the wheel bearings, one bearing on my shogun had ruptured and i was facing the same problem.

Considering that the thread starter has already got his job done in the rims department, the problem of spoke tightening could not be a cause.
If spokes came lose, then the person will experience unstable handling even with the hands on the steering.

[Sankar]

Originally Posted by rascalangel

Hi all,

i own a pulsar 150 DTSi DEC 2004 model. When ever i ride it around 60-65 kmph and leave my both hands the front goes into ever increasing wobbling.
the following has already been tried:
1) the cone is replaced with new one.
2) thee bend in fork(if there was ever) was removed.
3) the tire tube checked for any packings.
4) shock abs oil changed and levels corrected.
5) the rim removed and any bend straightened out after which there was improvement for 3 days only.

These are a few things you could check to narrow down on the problem.

1) Has the rim gone out of true after three days?

2) Is the front steering head set too tight after you have got the cone & ball set replaced?

3) Are the front and the back wheels straight in a line? Is any one wheel offset to the left or the right?

4) Are the rear chain tensioners adjusted equally at the left and the right side?

5) Has the wheel been trued perfectly with the correct offset or no offset? (At times it happens that the rim is true but the rim would be offest to either the left or the right. For most front wheels there shouldn't be any offset and it should be aligned centrally. But in the case of rear wheels there are some bikes which has a specific offset which needs to be maintained while setting the wheel. If your wheel smith is experienced he would know it.)

6) Are the wheel bearings good?

7) Is there any brake binding issue?

8) Hope the chassis and the swingarm is perfect.

9) Is the air pressure correct?

10) Hope the lower fork holder (triple tree) doesnt have any bend.

[rascalangel]

okay first i forgot to mention that i have alloy rims.

1) Has the rim gone out of true after three days?

i will be taking the bike again tomorrow to the guy who removed it.

2) Is the front steering head set too tight after you have got the cone & ball set replaced?

no its not, infact i feel its too smooth compared to my cousins CBZ.

3) Are the front and the back wheels straight in a line? Is any one wheel offset to the left or the right?

4) Are the rear chain tensioners adjusted equally at the left and the right side?

5) Has the wheel been trued perfectly with the correct offset or no offset? (At times it happens that the rim is true but the rim would be offest to either the left or the right. For most front wheels there shouldn't be any offset and it should be aligned centrally. But in the case of rear wheels there are some bikes which has a specific offset which needs to be maintained while setting the wheel. If your wheel smith is experienced he would know it.)

6) Are the wheel bearings good?

8) Hope the chassis and the swingarm is perfect.

got to check these.

7) Is there any brake binding issue?

can u elaborate?its something i havent heard before.

10) Hope the lower fork holder (triple tree) doesnt have any bend.

the previous mech supposedly removed the bend, but will get it checked this time.

Dear sankar,

thanks a lot. i've been looking for these kind of points to chack upon.

[Sankar]

You're welcome rascalangel, i scribbled down all the possibilities that came to my mind.

Since you've got ally wheels you need to worry about offset. But still check the trueness of the wheels.

Brake binding means the front brake still sticking on to the disk in such a way that it causes the front wheels not to rotate freely.

[rascalangel]

As a matter of fact my front disk brake does not allow wheel to move freely.Also it doesn't apply properly and i get a jerky feeling when i apply them.my brake disk was once machined cause of this but still its the same.
what causes this? is this why the wheel wobbles or vice versa?

[DirtyDan]

You are riding with no hands on the bar? Wobble is not your main problem here but:

Are you also changing your seating position when you do this, especially, are you moving back on the seat toward the rear? This will tend to lighten the load on the front wheel and perhaps cause it to wobble. Or, are you sitting up more straight and therefore putting more weight on the rear and off the front?

[bblost]

If you are willing to try then remove the disc assembly.
Let the plate remain.

try your stunt and see if the wobble persists.

needless to say Be very careful.

riding without hands - Fun
riding without brakes- Lots of fun.
riding without hands and brakes- Lots of amazing fun.

If you fall and break something, it will hurt.
It will hurt bad for a real long time.
Wear protective gear all the time.

[rascalangel]

i will try that too. btw lot of guys talk about me riding with my hand off the bar well i do it just to see if it wobbles not otherwise. the main problem is that even when i ride with hands on the bar and say a pass of a edge in the road it feels as if its turning on its own, it kind of shakes. this is the concern cause i feel i dont have complete control of my bike!and in rains when it gets slippery god save me

[yogesh sarkar]

Check for uneven tyre wear

[rascalangel]

bblost:
If you are willing to try then remove the disc assembly.
Let the plate remain.

try your stunt and see if the wobble persists.

The problem persisted.

after that took the bike to the guy who trued my wheel earlier. when went to receive it he said the leg of the triple tree which fits into the chassis had bent and also the part of the chassis which holds it.he said its been cleared now and he also replaced the ball bearings so took a test and found it had improved a bit but i still get that feeling of it moving in my hands. one good thing happened is that it seemed to get of the brake binding problem..at least now the front wheel is 95% free. as for the little wobble which still exists the guy said its because of the tire wearing. will most probably get the tire replaced tomorrow. should i go for MRF or Ceat?

[rascalangel]

Hi all,

it seems my rear tire is not aligned properly. will get it done. as of now the problem exists to little extent.Also i want to change both my rear and front tire's.the rear one is already smooth after 4 yrs, the front one is ok but changing both. any suggestions for good grippy tires?for rains especially.

Thanks a lot in advance.

[bblost]

Mrf or Ceat.
What I know and I may be wrong is that the rubber in ceat is a litle softer.

This translates to better grip but the tire wears out faster.
personally I suggest you go with whatever is available.

Note: The tire will have a code indicating the week and year of manufacture.
Buy the youngest tire. This code is a three digit number. 1 digit for year and 2 for the week of manufacture.
More info on tires codes: Tire code - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia