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Old 8th July 2008, 18:52   #76
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Its true to use the 2T mixed with petrol rather than depending on oil pump, as you never know when the oil pump stops working and you are at a loss. It is always advised to play safe rather than be sorry later.

I use both 2T premixed in oil and from the pump in my bike and by far i can say its the safest bet one can think of.
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Old 8th July 2008, 19:08   #77
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Thanks praJEEP !

Quote:
Originally Posted by invincible7 View Post
Its true to use the 2T mixed with petrol rather than depending on oil pump, as you never know when the oil pump stops working and you are at a loss. It is always advised to play safe rather than be sorry later.

I use both 2T premixed in oil and from the pump in my bike and by far i can say its the safest bet one can think of.
I think i'll do the same. Have you been able to find motul anywhere in NCR?
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Old 8th July 2008, 20:06   #78
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Nopes Motul is not available in NCR, i couldnt source it, though i have heard its available in Khan market.

Not sure on this.

One can get it from Bangalore but then if someone is coming from there, courier companies do not carry liquid stuff in mails anymore.
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Old 9th July 2008, 12:02   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shakensoul View Post
Thanks praJEEP !

I think i'll do the same. Have you been able to find motul anywhere in NCR?
Try contacting these persons

38. Mr. Vivek Jain
Flat. No. 246
GH –9, Paschim Vihar
New Delhi - 110087
9818606037®
M:9818528888
[email]vjain@alsl.net

41. Mr. Asish Gaurav
S/o. Mr. Prem Kumar Jha
240, Ground Floor
D-Block, Nehru Vihar
Delhi 54
M: 09899071415... [email]agaurav@alsl.net

48. Mr. Ajay Mishra
H. No. 933, Sector 14
Pocket 1, DDA LIG
Dwarka
New Delhi -110074
M: 9899394696 [email]ajaymishra@alsl.net

Last edited by praJEEP : 9th July 2008 at 12:10.
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Old 9th July 2008, 14:15   #80
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Thanks pradeep.

Atfirst I was reluctant to call the mobile numbers as the addresses given seemed like residential addresses and numbers. Finally I called one number and got connected with the right guy, and got the address where motul is available, they are the authorized distributor for motul.

Swadeshi Oil Corporation
Mr Mohit Maheshwari
+(91)-(11)-26808040
+(91)-9810706219
619/19, Opp Tivoli Gdn, Main Rd, Chattarpur, Delhi - 110030

Last edited by Shakensoul : 9th July 2008 at 14:16.
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Old 9th July 2008, 14:36   #81
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At last you were able to find one.

I forgot to tell you one thing please apply greece on your rims and chrome parts every three or four days. i am telling this coz i just went through your previous posts were you had mentioned some parts are getting rusted.
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Old 11th July 2008, 01:03   #82
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Another pic, no pp done, shot using a CP, only brightness/contrast adjusted.
Attached Images
  
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Old 13th July 2008, 20:11   #83
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Prajeep and SS- please take a note of this- it's a humble request and can be checked up with the pros.

SS and Prajeep, you'll need to refit the front M45 tyres in the direction opposite to the arrow.

I had mentioned this to SS elsewhere but he missed it i think.

Coz imho, for fitting the M45 at the front, you have to fit it in the direction opposite to the tiny directional arrow on the tread.
You follow the arrow on the M45 only for the rear.
Front fits the other way round.

Note:
You follow the arrow on uni-directional tyres when you fit-
A tyre meant for the rear at the rear.
A tyre meant for the front at the front.

A tyre meant for the rear, fitted at the front, is fitted in the direction opposite to the arrow, i.e. opposite to the direction of rotation.

If i remember correctly, this rule was followed even while fitting MRF Zappers when we didnt have dedicated Zappers for the front.

So when viewing a MRF Zapper from back, the grooves on the rear looked like '/ \' - for proper functioning.
When the same tyre is fitted at the front, viewed from the front, the grooves on the front should look like '/ \', means they look '\ /' from the back of the front tyre.
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Old 13th July 2008, 21:03   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by praJEEP View Post
My replies in bold..
1) Is it because its big or too long ?

Both are the causes it is out of place.
Quote:
Originally Posted by praJEEP View Post
2) The crashguard was installed by the mechanic :(

Please change it asap keep this one as a standby.
Why so sir?
You may not like the looks but, if the fit is ok, the build quality is ok, then any danger?

I used the oem black powder coated ones that came with my bike for sometime (heavier and better finished than the chromed option) and later shifted to the much smaller RXZ oem ones.
They were very good in built as well as fit- the best i managed to find in Mumbai.
Looked like a mini version of the original RX100 ones but also had room for the RXZ engine cowl.
Best thing, they didnt come down as low as the big 'D' ones, which can get a bit too close to other vehicles in tight traffic or while over-optimistic leaning, but when bike was laid on its side, it didn't compromise on clearance.
Did not utilise individual clamps as in the regular RX100/135 ones, that scratch the downtubes, and loosen or crack later but a bridge spanning both tubes.
No loosening or rattling even after a long time and even the paint on the downtubes didn't get scratched.
They were later stolen while my bike was being worked upon. :(
Quote:
Originally Posted by praJEEP View Post
I'm not too sure about the 2T oil as it was filled by the mechanic, I think its castrol. Planning to switch to motul as everyone has said good things about it, but not been able to find it till now.

Please change it too motul 800 ester which costs 550/- per litre. since your bike is in the runnin period this the best medicene you can afford for your bike. also tell your mechanic to increase the oil pump ( autolube ) to its max coz loads of 2t oil is required when your bike is under runnin period. more carbon deposits on your piston leads to smoother ride.
Err.
Ain't that Motul Ester a fully- synthetic oil.
Then that is the last thing to use while running-in iirc. :(
It will hamper proper mating/running-in of the engine parts.

Ideally, one should be running-in the engine on regular grade/conventional engine oil and later shift to semi-synthetic or full synthetic as per needs/budget.
If one can afford it, full-synthetic is a no-brainer.
But it also doesn't make sense for a commuter kinda person.

And during running-in, a lil extra output from the oil pump is kept to be a lil safe.
But 2T pump at full- that will be fouling the plug, wasting efficiency and also compromising the proper mating of the parts and may cause glazing, what we want to avoid at all costs.
Unless your 2T pump at full is pumping in what's the normal.

Ya- different batches of RX oil-pumps pump slightly different amounts at the same setting.
With age and wear and tear, o/p of some drops drastically and some eventually fail altogether.

So it has to be set at the standard setting by monitoring the o/p.
Quote:
Originally Posted by praJEEP View Post
Also is it better to use the oil pump for 2T or mix it directly with petrol, one of my friend told me that its better to mix it directly with petrol as the engine runs much more smoother.

Then why did yamaha provided oil pumps for the bikes are they nuts !

Also keep an eye on the 2t oil pipes the one which leads from the oil container to the pump. and the other which leads from the oil pump to the carburettor. the oil should flow freely there shouldn't be any air bubbles visible on any of the pipes.

Whenever i take the bike for a long ride i add 20 ml of motul ester 800 for every 1 litre of petrol. this way the engine will be buttersmooth you wont strain the engine and you can also rip, but smoke will be more, damn who cares for them on the highway.
I agree on using pump for daily use.

But i made sure the pump is fine before starting on a long trip, 20-30 ml in 10L as bonus and another 50ml in a bottle for emergencies.

Metering dosage of 2Toil is not simple and depends on estimated mileage too- which depends on several variables.
Premix at petrol pumps is a approximation assuming estimated mileage at normal running and not excatly for our bikes.
Ride hard and improper premix can cause damaged/partial seizure.

Make sure you use good pipes- mechanics sometimes cut tatterred ends of old ones and refit- pipe is stretched and may get flattened or develop kinks, so pump works but still less oil to engine means a adamaged engine or partial seizure.

Pipes of bad quality also suffer similar problems of flattening or kinking.

Also during setting the oil pump, the oil-pump and the oil line have to be bled and then fitted to the carb after assuring no air is trapped- as Prajeep sir already mentioned.
Quote:
Originally Posted by invincible7 View Post
I use both 2T premixed in oil and from the pump in my bike and by far i can say its the safest bet one can think of.
If you have adjusted the oil-pump to low and adding something accordingly to the tank. then maybe you can do both atthe same time.
Else it sounds ridiculous.

You either use oil-pump, minor addition to tank is ok.
Or you disconnect oil-pump totally from the engine and use your own pre-calculated premix.
That one has to work out- how many ml of 2T to add to how many litres of petrol- based upon crusing speeds, the estimated mileage and the 1000ml 2T for 1000Kms average usage as a guide.

Using premix on a standard bike with standard jetting and one can notice a mild drop in instantaneous acceleration as the premix is not as light as pure petrol.
Plus any dirt in fuel, with oil, can be a bigger problem at choking jets than it is when oil-pump is used and oil is pumped directly into the o/p tract of the carb.

Oil pumps usually fail as the tiny gear in the oil-pump is unable to keep up with a long sustained high revving engine, maybe due to not so good quality or improper fit.
Yes, i have seen bad fits due to unskilled mechanic kill a good oil pump.

Rally bikes do away with the oil-pump altogether as it's a huge risk on the reliability part given their sustained run for long periods at high rpms.
They are known to run heavily ported engines with bigger jets and use precisely metered amounts of 2T premixed into the fuel based upon the distance to be covered.
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Old 13th July 2008, 21:15   #85
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I would agree with Bikeinstein here, that front tyre's direction needs to be reversed.
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Old 14th July 2008, 13:03   #86
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Ok, now you got me all confused.

Please see the pictures below for reference. There are two tyre direction arrows in a tyre. As per my understanding, in the case of the front tyre, the tyre needs to move in the direction of the arrow saying <front> when moving forward, and in the direction of the arrow saying <rear> when moving backwards.
So as in the picture, when my bike moves forward, the tyre rotates in the direction of the arrow saying front.

Please correct me if I am wrong here.
Attached Thumbnails
Recommended Yamaha RX135 mechanic in Delhi?-front-tyre.jpg  

Recommended Yamaha RX135 mechanic in Delhi?-rear-tyre.jpg  

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Old 14th July 2008, 13:24   #87
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shakensoul View Post
Ok, now you got me all confused.

Please see the pictures below for reference. There are two tyre direction arrows in a tyre. As per my understanding, in the case of the front tyre, the tyre needs to move in the direction of the arrow saying <front> when moving forward, and in the direction of the arrow saying <rear> when moving backwards.
So as in the picture, when my bike moves forward, the tyre rotates in the direction of the arrow saying front.

Please correct me if I am wrong here.
Woah- for a moment i thought M45 has a special "front" tyre now.
Saw both the pics of "both" the tyres and realised they just made it worse for users if i interpreted them right. :(
Or maybe better for n00bs now, coz of some related issues earlier.
Pics of the rear tyre helped me as you clicked then wrt to the rear shock.
When unfitted, do the front and rear tyres bear identical marks wrt that front and rear 'lettering' with arrows?

What size you running at the front and rear?

Will you please provide full pics of each of the whole tyre in view as they are mounted from the exhaust side of the bike.- please.
Just one pic per tyre is enough so that i can see the entire tyre and both the markings simultaneously.
I need to recheck before i open my mouth and try to shove in my foot once more.

Also, is the speed rating/max speed mentioned on them on any side.
Any mention/print/mark where these tyres are made?
These M45 look funny for several reasons along with those front and rear markings- "funny funny shoes".

Last edited by BIKeINSTEIN : 14th July 2008 at 13:36.
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Old 14th July 2008, 14:33   #88
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BIKeINSTEIN View Post
Woah- for a moment i thought M45 has a special "front" tyre now.
Saw both the pics of "both" the tyres and realised they just made it worse for users if i interpreted them right. :(
Or maybe better for n00bs now, coz of some related issues earlier.
Pics of the rear tyre helped me as you clicked then wrt to the rear shock.
When unfitted, do the front and rear tyres bear identical marks wrt that front and rear 'lettering' with arrows?
Yes, both the tyres have the same tyre direction markings.

Quote:
What size you running at the front and rear?
Front - 2.78-18
Rear - 3.00-18

Quote:
Will you please provide full pics of each of the whole tyre in view as they are mounted from the exhaust side of the bike.- please.
Just one pic per tyre is enough so that i can see the entire tyre and both the markings simultaneously.
I need to recheck before i open my mouth and try to shove in my foot once more.
Will upload them soon.

Quote:
Also, is the speed rating/max speed mentioned on them on any side. Any mention/print/mark where these tyres are made?
These M45 look funny for several reasons along with those front and rear markings- "funny funny shoes".
Yes, the speed rating is 180kmph. They also say where they were manufactured, don't remember, will look again.
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Old 15th July 2008, 17:38   #89
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^SS- my net is dicey- waiting for the pics.

Though if i have interpreted the above pics right, then the 2 tyres should be identical in pattern and markings except for the size.
Coz Michelin M45 was a unidirectional tyre for rear and mostly still is.

Earlier it used to have a few tiny arrows on the outer area of the tread.
And all arrows pointed in the same direction denoting the intended direction of rotation.
So one fitted the rear (usually a 3.00x18) as per the arrow- i.e. rear tyre rotates in the direction ofthe arrow.
The M45 for the front (usually a 2.75x18) was fitted opposite to the arrow.

The problem with those M45s was that many never saw the arrow and assumed it to be bi-directional and fitted it anyway they wanted.
Others used to look at the 'L' shaped designer lines or whatever on the sidewall and assumed it to be an arrow- problem being it pointed the other way round on the other side.
Also, since those tiny arrows were on the tread, they got scrubbed off after some running, especially after some corner-carving, donuts or stuff.
So unless the rider/mechanic instructed the tyre-fitter or the latter was aware of it from previous fitment based on the tread pattern, there wasn't a way to find the direction on a used tyre.

So maybe that's why they have two arrows on the same side of the sidewall now- one marking rear and one showing front.
Wasn't one enough- just indicating the way it should roll when fitted at the rear?

I hope and am quite positive it is that way.

The new two-arrow marking can also mean/suggest- that if fitted at the rear, it should roll in the direction of the arrow 'marked' rear and if fitted at the front, it should roll in the direction of the arrow marked 'front'.
Means we all were using it the other way round all this while.
But since i have seen the older tyres with single arrow that had no room for confusion, your present fitment at the rear is fine.

That's why i said they made it worse now if they have those two arrows on the same side of the tyre and the need for full pics of both.

Last edited by BIKeINSTEIN : 15th July 2008 at 17:57.
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Old 17th July 2008, 11:08   #90
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@shakensoul somehow i missed this part where you have mentioned that you have got this plug for your bike "NGK G-Power BPR7HGP plug for 130/".

Now as i undestand for RX 135 the plug should be NGK BPR7HS for the specific heat range required for the engine and this one costs 67/-, so why did you got that paticular plug for the bike.

Any particular reasons???
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